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Fashion Month Is Happening! Really. Probably? Maybe. | Fashion Month Is Happening! Really. Probably? Maybe. |
(7 days later) | |
Here’s a very opinionated guide for what to watch, where to watch it, where to buy and what the heck is going on. | Here’s a very opinionated guide for what to watch, where to watch it, where to buy and what the heck is going on. |
This is a season like no other. If the last set of digital shows/music videos/perfume ads/lookbooks, in July, was a kind of bookmark — a place holder for an industry during a pandemic — it has dawned on all of us that rather than an interregnum, this may be the normal, at least for the foreseeable future. | This is a season like no other. If the last set of digital shows/music videos/perfume ads/lookbooks, in July, was a kind of bookmark — a place holder for an industry during a pandemic — it has dawned on all of us that rather than an interregnum, this may be the normal, at least for the foreseeable future. |
Now the whole idea of fashion is starting to be questioned: What is a trend when we all exist in our isolated bubbles? Who needs so many new clothes? Who needs professional or dress-up outfits at all when offices are remote and events on hold? What is the point? | Now the whole idea of fashion is starting to be questioned: What is a trend when we all exist in our isolated bubbles? Who needs so many new clothes? Who needs professional or dress-up outfits at all when offices are remote and events on hold? What is the point? |
It’s on designers to provide an answer; to, in effect, justify their existence, to help us understand how we are going to express are selves in the future. These shows are how they are going to do it. The stakes have never been higher — and not just because a bunch of them will actually be live. As Jerry Seinfeld wrote of New York, “Real, live, inspiring human energy exists when we coagulate together.” The same is true of fashion shows. | It’s on designers to provide an answer; to, in effect, justify their existence, to help us understand how we are going to express are selves in the future. These shows are how they are going to do it. The stakes have never been higher — and not just because a bunch of them will actually be live. As Jerry Seinfeld wrote of New York, “Real, live, inspiring human energy exists when we coagulate together.” The same is true of fashion shows. |
Now we get to the first of the two fashion week cities really, really committed to holding physical shows, complete with guests — though they are moving forward with the whole dual gender, men’s wear and women’s wear on the catwalk together idea. (It’s about time.) | Now we get to the first of the two fashion week cities really, really committed to holding physical shows, complete with guests — though they are moving forward with the whole dual gender, men’s wear and women’s wear on the catwalk together idea. (It’s about time.) |
As for the drive to show live, nerve-racking though it may be given the potential for spreading the virus, you can understand it: Fashion is a core Italian industry, embedded in both the country’s economy, which is built not just on big global brands but on factories and hundreds of small artisans who manufacture products for designers around the world, and its identity. And there is no moment quite as quintessentially fashion as the show. | As for the drive to show live, nerve-racking though it may be given the potential for spreading the virus, you can understand it: Fashion is a core Italian industry, embedded in both the country’s economy, which is built not just on big global brands but on factories and hundreds of small artisans who manufacture products for designers around the world, and its identity. And there is no moment quite as quintessentially fashion as the show. |
Even back in the old days of July, a few names (hello, Dolce & Gabbana) started to dip their Roman sandal-shod feet in live experiences. At the time the reaction was: Shock! Horror! How can you? But with proper procedures followed, no disasters ensued. Now more are following. Not everyone, to be sure — the first four days are predominantly physical shows; the last two, mostly digital. And Armani is hedging his bets and holding live shows, but with no audience. Here’s what to watch. | Even back in the old days of July, a few names (hello, Dolce & Gabbana) started to dip their Roman sandal-shod feet in live experiences. At the time the reaction was: Shock! Horror! How can you? But with proper procedures followed, no disasters ensued. Now more are following. Not everyone, to be sure — the first four days are predominantly physical shows; the last two, mostly digital. And Armani is hedging his bets and holding live shows, but with no audience. Here’s what to watch. |
Wednesday, Sept. 23: Missoni will kick things off with a digital presentation, but the first Big Live Show will be Fendi, at 3 p.m. No big surprise, since the brand is owned by LVMH, a.k.a. the Largest Luxury Group in the World, and the conglomerate that has been most vocal about its support of the traditional system. Also going live: Alberta Ferretti (at 5 p.m.) and Dolce & Gabbana, of course, at 6 p.m. | Wednesday, Sept. 23: Missoni will kick things off with a digital presentation, but the first Big Live Show will be Fendi, at 3 p.m. No big surprise, since the brand is owned by LVMH, a.k.a. the Largest Luxury Group in the World, and the conglomerate that has been most vocal about its support of the traditional system. Also going live: Alberta Ferretti (at 5 p.m.) and Dolce & Gabbana, of course, at 6 p.m. |
Thursday, Sept. 24: MaxMara will start the day, as it usually did during that period formerly known as MFW, at 9:30 a.m. Emporio Armani will be at 11:30, and Etro at 6 p.m., but in between will be the single biggest draw of the week — and the one show everyone will be talking about: Prada at 2 p.m. The first collection by the creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, two of fashion’s most introspective thinkers, it will either give substance to the argument that creativity triumphs over all or prove that old saw about too many cooks. Either way, and even though at the last moment it opted out of a physical show for a digital happening, it’s going to be a Moment. | Thursday, Sept. 24: MaxMara will start the day, as it usually did during that period formerly known as MFW, at 9:30 a.m. Emporio Armani will be at 11:30, and Etro at 6 p.m., but in between will be the single biggest draw of the week — and the one show everyone will be talking about: Prada at 2 p.m. The first collection by the creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, two of fashion’s most introspective thinkers, it will either give substance to the argument that creativity triumphs over all or prove that old saw about too many cooks. Either way, and even though at the last moment it opted out of a physical show for a digital happening, it’s going to be a Moment. |
Friday, Sept. 25: Boss is back in Milan after a few quiet season in New York and showing at 2 p.m., followed immediately by Tod’s at 3 p.m. and Marni at 4 p.m. Francesco Risso, Marni’s creative director, has consistently proven himself to be one of the most interesting new-gen names in the city, and one of the few willing to use his work to grapple with contemporary issues (even if he also accompanies his shows with notes that are part prose poem, part Dada, and almost impossible to decipher). | Friday, Sept. 25: Boss is back in Milan after a few quiet season in New York and showing at 2 p.m., followed immediately by Tod’s at 3 p.m. and Marni at 4 p.m. Francesco Risso, Marni’s creative director, has consistently proven himself to be one of the most interesting new-gen names in the city, and one of the few willing to use his work to grapple with contemporary issues (even if he also accompanies his shows with notes that are part prose poem, part Dada, and almost impossible to decipher). |
Last season he wore a bunny rabbit mask to take his bow and had his models emerge from a blob-like silver dome. One can only imagine what he will do with the current situation. While we are pondering the answer, note that Versace will show at 6 p.m. For her last digital reveal, Donatella offered some models shimmying to a new single performed by the British rapper AJ Tracey. Will she have a live soundtrack again? What does athVersace look like? Is there such a thing? Keep these questions in mind. | Last season he wore a bunny rabbit mask to take his bow and had his models emerge from a blob-like silver dome. One can only imagine what he will do with the current situation. While we are pondering the answer, note that Versace will show at 6 p.m. For her last digital reveal, Donatella offered some models shimmying to a new single performed by the British rapper AJ Tracey. Will she have a live soundtrack again? What does athVersace look like? Is there such a thing? Keep these questions in mind. |
Saturday, Sept. 26: First up is Moschino, with a super-secret film project unveiled at 3:30 p.m. Though there’s no trailer available, we can tell you this: Jim Henson’s Creature Shop is involved. Which is all you really need to know to know that it’ll be something to see. | |
Closing the day is Armani. As some may remember, the last in-person Armani show, back in March, was officially the first show altered by Covid-19 as it dawned on the world that the virus was about to go global. Back then, Mr. Armani told his guests to stay home (or in their hotels) and livestreamed his show from an empty theater, with a finale designed as an ode to China. We have now come full circle. To see what that looks like, tune in at 9 p.m. | Closing the day is Armani. As some may remember, the last in-person Armani show, back in March, was officially the first show altered by Covid-19 as it dawned on the world that the virus was about to go global. Back then, Mr. Armani told his guests to stay home (or in their hotels) and livestreamed his show from an empty theater, with a finale designed as an ode to China. We have now come full circle. To see what that looks like, tune in at 9 p.m. |
And for a curtain-raiser, don’t forget Tomo Koizumi x Pucci, a digital reveal of the Japanese designer’s one-season-only vision for the brand that print built, and Ferragamo, at 7 p.m. | And for a curtain-raiser, don’t forget Tomo Koizumi x Pucci, a digital reveal of the Japanese designer’s one-season-only vision for the brand that print built, and Ferragamo, at 7 p.m. |
Sunday, Sept. 27: For one-time only, Valentino, normally a Paris name, is bringing its combined men’s and women’s show to Milan. Jacopo Venturini, the chief executive, called it an “ethical” decision made to protect employees and support the Italian fashion system. Now the question is: Will a change in metropolis change what we see? | Sunday, Sept. 27: For one-time only, Valentino, normally a Paris name, is bringing its combined men’s and women’s show to Milan. Jacopo Venturini, the chief executive, called it an “ethical” decision made to protect employees and support the Italian fashion system. Now the question is: Will a change in metropolis change what we see? |
Missing: the two big names not going live as part of the schedule are Gucci, which is planning a live show — maybe? probably — but on its own schedule, when it makes sense for the brand, probably later in the fall, and Bottega Veneta, where Daniel Lee is thinking digital. | Missing: the two big names not going live as part of the schedule are Gucci, which is planning a live show — maybe? probably — but on its own schedule, when it makes sense for the brand, probably later in the fall, and Bottega Veneta, where Daniel Lee is thinking digital. |
The organizing body of Paris Fashion Week is still insisting that, as with Milan, the shows will go on, literally, even as travel advisories change by the day. The schedule is a full eight days (!) with most of the big French guns planning physical shows and everyone else engaging in a variety of creative programming. | The organizing body of Paris Fashion Week is still insisting that, as with Milan, the shows will go on, literally, even as travel advisories change by the day. The schedule is a full eight days (!) with most of the big French guns planning physical shows and everyone else engaging in a variety of creative programming. |
Dior kicks it all off, live and in person, on Sept. 29 in its usual 2:30 slot, with Balmain at 8 p.m. on the 30th. (How will Olivier Rousteing follow up his couture-time concert/tour through the archives on a boat in the Seine? Watch and see!) Hermès is on the Oct. 3 at 3 p.m., live again, and the 6th — the final day and a doozy — will have both Chanel, live at 10:30 a.m., and Louis Vuitton, live at 4:30. In between are Miu Miu at 2:30 and Maison Margiela at 3:30. | Dior kicks it all off, live and in person, on Sept. 29 in its usual 2:30 slot, with Balmain at 8 p.m. on the 30th. (How will Olivier Rousteing follow up his couture-time concert/tour through the archives on a boat in the Seine? Watch and see!) Hermès is on the Oct. 3 at 3 p.m., live again, and the 6th — the final day and a doozy — will have both Chanel, live at 10:30 a.m., and Louis Vuitton, live at 4:30. In between are Miu Miu at 2:30 and Maison Margiela at 3:30. |
Givenchy, where Matthew Williams was to have the most anticipated debut of the week, has decided to postpone that big unveil until 2021, when (hopefully) it can actually be big — and live, and in front of a lot of people — and will instead offer a sort of prelude/peekaboo into a few looks at 8 p.m. on Oct. 4. | Givenchy, where Matthew Williams was to have the most anticipated debut of the week, has decided to postpone that big unveil until 2021, when (hopefully) it can actually be big — and live, and in front of a lot of people — and will instead offer a sort of prelude/peekaboo into a few looks at 8 p.m. on Oct. 4. |
Yet Paris is also the city where some of the most interesting clothes come from some of the more independent, and traveling, names, and in those cases, there is less clarity. Thom Browne, for example, one of the great itinerant showmen of the city, is sticking with digital; so is Altuzarra, and so is Dries Van Noten. | Yet Paris is also the city where some of the most interesting clothes come from some of the more independent, and traveling, names, and in those cases, there is less clarity. Thom Browne, for example, one of the great itinerant showmen of the city, is sticking with digital; so is Altuzarra, and so is Dries Van Noten. |
Marine Serre and Thebe Magugu, two of the hottest young names, are on the schedule for the Sept. 26 at 10:30 a.m. and 7:30 p.m., while Kenneth Ize on Oct. 1 at 10 a.m., but their plans are a mystery. Which maybe makes it even more important to watch. Also worth checking out: Wales Bonner and Gabriela Hearst, each making their Paris Fashion Week debuts — in some form, anyway — the first on Sept. 28 at 5:30 p.m., and the second on Oct. 4 at 1 p.m. | Marine Serre and Thebe Magugu, two of the hottest young names, are on the schedule for the Sept. 26 at 10:30 a.m. and 7:30 p.m., while Kenneth Ize on Oct. 1 at 10 a.m., but their plans are a mystery. Which maybe makes it even more important to watch. Also worth checking out: Wales Bonner and Gabriela Hearst, each making their Paris Fashion Week debuts — in some form, anyway — the first on Sept. 28 at 5:30 p.m., and the second on Oct. 4 at 1 p.m. |
Missing: Comme des Garçons and its brands, Junya Watanabe and Noir Kei Ninomiya, all of which are responsible for the more boundary-pushing thought-provoking work normally shown during fashion week — you know, the ones that question the very concept of “dress” — will be staying home in Tokyo, and holding smaller presentations there in October. Also off the schedule: the polarizing Celine, where Hedi Slimane has remained mum about his plans since the start of the pandemic. | Missing: Comme des Garçons and its brands, Junya Watanabe and Noir Kei Ninomiya, all of which are responsible for the more boundary-pushing thought-provoking work normally shown during fashion week — you know, the ones that question the very concept of “dress” — will be staying home in Tokyo, and holding smaller presentations there in October. Also off the schedule: the polarizing Celine, where Hedi Slimane has remained mum about his plans since the start of the pandemic. |
Off-White by Virgil Abloh will no longer be part of Paris Fashion Week but will instead introduce its next collection, for spring 2021, in stores in February, said New Guards Group, which owns the license for the brand. Thereafter, the company said, “the collections will be organized by monthly installments and will satisfy any commercial need, leaving Virgil Abloh all the creative space he needs.” | Off-White by Virgil Abloh will no longer be part of Paris Fashion Week but will instead introduce its next collection, for spring 2021, in stores in February, said New Guards Group, which owns the license for the brand. Thereafter, the company said, “the collections will be organized by monthly installments and will satisfy any commercial need, leaving Virgil Abloh all the creative space he needs.” |
And Saint Laurent, led by Anthony Vaccarello, plans to “take control of its pace and reshape its schedule,” at least through the rest of 2020. (It says it will be back on the official Paris schedule in 2021.) What does that actually mean? Who knows! Saint Laurent hasn’t been any more specific than to write that it will “launch its collections following a plan conceived with an up-to-date perspective, driven by creativity.” Well, OK then. | And Saint Laurent, led by Anthony Vaccarello, plans to “take control of its pace and reshape its schedule,” at least through the rest of 2020. (It says it will be back on the official Paris schedule in 2021.) What does that actually mean? Who knows! Saint Laurent hasn’t been any more specific than to write that it will “launch its collections following a plan conceived with an up-to-date perspective, driven by creativity.” Well, OK then. |
Wondering what happened earlier this month? | |
Most collections were shown online, although some designers gamely masked up for small in-person appointments. Some of the video presentations were inventive, while others were head-scratching. (Hello, Burberry mermaids?) | |
After a week of many “digital activations” — and two live, socially-distant runway shows — we concluded that sweatpants are definitely not forever and that the men’s wear talent pool keeps on growing. | |
Stay tuned for the designers who’ve decided to go rogue by presenting in October, like Michael Kors and Proenza Schouler. In the meantime, relive this strange NYFW here: | |
And for a recap of what happened in July: | And for a recap of what happened in July: |
These shows took place in early July, entirely digitally, and you can watch them all in one handy place right here. | These shows took place in early July, entirely digitally, and you can watch them all in one handy place right here. |
Illustration by The New York Times; Shutterstock | Illustration by The New York Times; Shutterstock |