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Obama brings hope amid dark memories | Obama brings hope amid dark memories |
(5 days later) | |
By Komla Dumor BBC World Service, Cape Coast | By Komla Dumor BBC World Service, Cape Coast |
The 17th Century Cape Coast Castle overlooking the Atlantic Ocean in Ghana is a testament to man's inhumanity to his fellow man. | The 17th Century Cape Coast Castle overlooking the Atlantic Ocean in Ghana is a testament to man's inhumanity to his fellow man. |
A few metres below where I am sitting, thousands of black African captives were kept in conditions that make me shudder even to imagine. | A few metres below where I am sitting, thousands of black African captives were kept in conditions that make me shudder even to imagine. |
They were chained, naked and hungry in hot filthy conditions - waiting for slave ships that would cart millions to a life of degradation and humiliation. | They were chained, naked and hungry in hot filthy conditions - waiting for slave ships that would cart millions to a life of degradation and humiliation. |
As I went below into the darkness of the cells, those who came through here whispered stories to me in the silence - women clutching crying babies, groans of pain, and tears, yes, so many tears. | As I went below into the darkness of the cells, those who came through here whispered stories to me in the silence - women clutching crying babies, groans of pain, and tears, yes, so many tears. |
I saw the faces of those dragged and whipped, kicking and screaming through the door of no-return into the belly of a slave ship. | I saw the faces of those dragged and whipped, kicking and screaming through the door of no-return into the belly of a slave ship. |
The window provided the only light for the captives below | The window provided the only light for the captives below |
This is a desolate, dark, miserable place. | This is a desolate, dark, miserable place. |
I have been to the Cape Coast Castle before and it is always traumatic. | I have been to the Cape Coast Castle before and it is always traumatic. |
But in this place of human shame there is a light. | But in this place of human shame there is a light. |
It is a tiny square in the corner of the high wall that the architects of this place provided to ventilate the thousands they so insensitively crammed into this dungeon - through it a single powerful stream of light shines. | It is a tiny square in the corner of the high wall that the architects of this place provided to ventilate the thousands they so insensitively crammed into this dungeon - through it a single powerful stream of light shines. |
No ordinary visitor | No ordinary visitor |
Two centuries after the first major attempt to end the slave trade, another visitor with an African father and a white American mother will stand close to where I am and perhaps battle with the same emotions. | Two centuries after the first major attempt to end the slave trade, another visitor with an African father and a white American mother will stand close to where I am and perhaps battle with the same emotions. |
But he is no ordinary visitor - Barack Obama is the 44th president of the United States. | But he is no ordinary visitor - Barack Obama is the 44th president of the United States. |
Coming to Ghana is, for many African Americans, the equivalent of a spiritual journey | Coming to Ghana is, for many African Americans, the equivalent of a spiritual journey |
He is the man who is widely seen to embody the hopes a generation of black, white, Hispanic and Asian people around the world. | He is the man who is widely seen to embody the hopes a generation of black, white, Hispanic and Asian people around the world. |
The people of Ghana are extremely excited about President Obama's arrival. | The people of Ghana are extremely excited about President Obama's arrival. |
His pictures are everywhere. Songs have been written in his honour. | His pictures are everywhere. Songs have been written in his honour. |
His choice of Ghana is significant on many levels. | His choice of Ghana is significant on many levels. |
Ghana was the first black African country to attain independence from British rule in 1957 - an inspiration to others across the continent. | Ghana was the first black African country to attain independence from British rule in 1957 - an inspiration to others across the continent. |
At the time, many African Americans, burdened by segregation and discrimination, looked to Ghana and its founder Kwame Nkrumah as a beacon of hope. | At the time, many African Americans, burdened by segregation and discrimination, looked to Ghana and its founder Kwame Nkrumah as a beacon of hope. |
The story is told of Vice-President Richard Nixon - the US guest of honour at our independence celebrations - who greeted a well-dressed black man with the question: "So how does it feel to be free?" | The story is told of Vice-President Richard Nixon - the US guest of honour at our independence celebrations - who greeted a well-dressed black man with the question: "So how does it feel to be free?" |
The man replied: "I don't know... I am from Alabama." | The man replied: "I don't know... I am from Alabama." |
Frustration | Frustration |
The local papers have been running pictures of a young Muhammad Ali and Martin Luther King celebrating Ghana's independence. | The local papers have been running pictures of a young Muhammad Ali and Martin Luther King celebrating Ghana's independence. |
Coming to Ghana is, for many African Americans, the equivalent of a spiritual journey so common to all faiths. | Coming to Ghana is, for many African Americans, the equivalent of a spiritual journey so common to all faiths. |
Many Ghanaians are excited about President Obama's visit | Many Ghanaians are excited about President Obama's visit |
Generations of African American doctors, lawyers teachers and educators still call Ghana home. | Generations of African American doctors, lawyers teachers and educators still call Ghana home. |
At independence, Kwame Nkrumah declared that this was "Our chance to show the world that... the black man can manage his own affairs." | At independence, Kwame Nkrumah declared that this was "Our chance to show the world that... the black man can manage his own affairs." |
Decades later we are still struggling to prove it. | Decades later we are still struggling to prove it. |
The frustration runs deep across Africa, from Ghana through Nigeria to Kenya and Zimbabwe. | The frustration runs deep across Africa, from Ghana through Nigeria to Kenya and Zimbabwe. |
Contemporary politics does not take notice of something as vague as the word "hope". | Contemporary politics does not take notice of something as vague as the word "hope". |
The Obama presidency will be measured by how he deals with a global economic crisis, the threat of terrorism and the spiral of environmental degradation. | The Obama presidency will be measured by how he deals with a global economic crisis, the threat of terrorism and the spiral of environmental degradation. |
It would be naive for Africans to assume that the election of Barack Obama means an economic windfall for the continent or that the president does not have a strategic interest in securing this region's oil. | It would be naive for Africans to assume that the election of Barack Obama means an economic windfall for the continent or that the president does not have a strategic interest in securing this region's oil. |
That 'thing' | That 'thing' |
Bill Clinton and George Bush both came to Ghana during their presidencies. | Bill Clinton and George Bush both came to Ghana during their presidencies. |
Nonetheless, the emotion involved with the arrival of Barack Obama is immeasurable. | Nonetheless, the emotion involved with the arrival of Barack Obama is immeasurable. |
What Barack Obama represents is that "thing" - the thing that Maya Angelou says "Makes the caged bird sing." | What Barack Obama represents is that "thing" - the thing that Maya Angelou says "Makes the caged bird sing." |
I see it in the faces of young girls from northern Ghana who carry back-breaking loads for a few cents in the markets clutching dreams of owning their own business. | I see it in the faces of young girls from northern Ghana who carry back-breaking loads for a few cents in the markets clutching dreams of owning their own business. |
I see it in the face of the taxi-driver who works extra hours so his children can go to a better school than the one he attended. | I see it in the face of the taxi-driver who works extra hours so his children can go to a better school than the one he attended. |
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Pupils in Ghana look forward to an 'historic' event | Pupils in Ghana look forward to an 'historic' event |
I've seen the same look on the face of a young doctor at Korle Bu teaching hospital who is overworked and underpaid and still delivers some of the best medical practice in Africa. | I've seen the same look on the face of a young doctor at Korle Bu teaching hospital who is overworked and underpaid and still delivers some of the best medical practice in Africa. |
They do not want a handout, they just want a fair chance to achieve their potential. | They do not want a handout, they just want a fair chance to achieve their potential. |
That look is called "enyidaso" in the Akan language of West Africa. | That look is called "enyidaso" in the Akan language of West Africa. |
It is the light that shone hundreds of years ago on the tear-stained faces of the human beings who passed through the Cape Coast dungeons. | It is the light that shone hundreds of years ago on the tear-stained faces of the human beings who passed through the Cape Coast dungeons. |
Barack Obama calls it "hope." | Barack Obama calls it "hope." |
Komla Dumor presents BBC World Service's The World Today programme. Born and raised in Ghana, he worked for Accra-based Joy FM, Ghana's leading commercial radio station before joining the BBC. | Komla Dumor presents BBC World Service's The World Today programme. Born and raised in Ghana, he worked for Accra-based Joy FM, Ghana's leading commercial radio station before joining the BBC. |