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| What Is Coronation Chicken? The History Behind the Dish. | What Is Coronation Chicken? The History Behind the Dish. |
| (2 days later) | |
| No matter how you feel about King Charles III and Queen Camilla’s recently revealed signature quiche, it seems unlikely to eclipse the most famous coronation dish of all — coronation chicken. | No matter how you feel about King Charles III and Queen Camilla’s recently revealed signature quiche, it seems unlikely to eclipse the most famous coronation dish of all — coronation chicken. |
| Created for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, the posh, delicately flavored chicken has, like Britain itself, changed a bit since. What was originally an aristocratic paragon of classic French technique has been democratized into a weeknight-easy chicken salad. Though enormously popular in Britain as a sandwich filling and baked-potato topper, this ocher-tinted, raisin-studded dish would be unrecognizable to any of the 350 dignitaries who partook of its regal ancestor. | Created for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, the posh, delicately flavored chicken has, like Britain itself, changed a bit since. What was originally an aristocratic paragon of classic French technique has been democratized into a weeknight-easy chicken salad. Though enormously popular in Britain as a sandwich filling and baked-potato topper, this ocher-tinted, raisin-studded dish would be unrecognizable to any of the 350 dignitaries who partook of its regal ancestor. |
| The original, developed at the Cordon Bleu culinary school in London, was called “poulet Reine Elizabeth.” A dish of cold poached chicken in a rose-hued sauce made from red wine, mayonnaise, whipped cream, apricot purée and a faint whiff of curry powder, it was served alongside a pea-studded rice salad at a coronation banquet to the queen’s honored guests (but not likely to the queen herself). | The original, developed at the Cordon Bleu culinary school in London, was called “poulet Reine Elizabeth.” A dish of cold poached chicken in a rose-hued sauce made from red wine, mayonnaise, whipped cream, apricot purée and a faint whiff of curry powder, it was served alongside a pea-studded rice salad at a coronation banquet to the queen’s honored guests (but not likely to the queen herself). |
| Find more coronation recipes on New York Times Cooking. | Find more coronation recipes on New York Times Cooking. |
| Sejal Sukhadwala, a London-based food writer and author of “The Philosophy of Curry,” describes that dish as shaped by French cuisine with a nod toward colonial India, and based on the jubilee chicken created in 1935 for George V, who, like his grandmother Queen Victoria, had a penchant for curries. | Sejal Sukhadwala, a London-based food writer and author of “The Philosophy of Curry,” describes that dish as shaped by French cuisine with a nod toward colonial India, and based on the jubilee chicken created in 1935 for George V, who, like his grandmother Queen Victoria, had a penchant for curries. |
| “The curry powder in coronation chicken was probably an acknowledgment of the influence of the empire and a tribute to the two previous curry-loving monarchs,” Ms. Sukhadwala wrote in an email. | “The curry powder in coronation chicken was probably an acknowledgment of the influence of the empire and a tribute to the two previous curry-loving monarchs,” Ms. Sukhadwala wrote in an email. |
| Over the years, the recipe has become something more accessible to British home cooks. Out went the red wine reduction, whipped cream, homemade mayonnaise and apricot purée; in came jarred mayonnaise, golden raisins, sliced almonds and mango chutney, pantry staples you could quickly stir together in one bowl. And what was once a pinch of curry powder grew to several tablespoons, staining the mix a vivid — some say lurid — yellow. | Over the years, the recipe has become something more accessible to British home cooks. Out went the red wine reduction, whipped cream, homemade mayonnaise and apricot purée; in came jarred mayonnaise, golden raisins, sliced almonds and mango chutney, pantry staples you could quickly stir together in one bowl. And what was once a pinch of curry powder grew to several tablespoons, staining the mix a vivid — some say lurid — yellow. |
| By the 1980s, coronation chicken salad had become ubiquitous in Britain, found in ready-made sandwiches at Marks & Spencer and on backyard party menus alike. | |
| This steep ascent was fueled by what the British food writer Gurdeep Loyal, author of “Mother Tongue: Flavours of a Second Generation,” calls a revival of Raj nostalgia that set in with Margaret Thatcher’s tenure as prime minister. | This steep ascent was fueled by what the British food writer Gurdeep Loyal, author of “Mother Tongue: Flavours of a Second Generation,” calls a revival of Raj nostalgia that set in with Margaret Thatcher’s tenure as prime minister. |
| Coronation chicken “wants to evoke the peacocks and rubies, the grandeur and spice of regal Indian dynasties, without actually delivering any strong flavors,” Mr. Loyal said. | Coronation chicken “wants to evoke the peacocks and rubies, the grandeur and spice of regal Indian dynasties, without actually delivering any strong flavors,” Mr. Loyal said. |
| Yet he’s a fan. His version, which uses a complex Punjabi masala with black and green cardamom, ajwain, fennel and tamarind, alludes to the beloved 1980s version of his childhood while celebrating Mr. Loyal’s identity as a second-generation British Indian. | Yet he’s a fan. His version, which uses a complex Punjabi masala with black and green cardamom, ajwain, fennel and tamarind, alludes to the beloved 1980s version of his childhood while celebrating Mr. Loyal’s identity as a second-generation British Indian. |
| “I’m un-diluting its Indianness,” he said. | “I’m un-diluting its Indianness,” he said. |
| Still, the 1980s version is delightful, and a snap to make. | Still, the 1980s version is delightful, and a snap to make. |
| The key is to choose your ingredients carefully. Start with cooked chicken that already has loads of flavor, whether you’re poaching it yourself or buying a rotisserie bird from the store. Find a mango chutney brand that’s complex and not too sweet. Use a good, tangy mayonnaise, ideally homemade. And — if you can find it — stir in curry paste from a jar instead of curry powder, which, depending on the brand, can have a raw, acrid undertone. | The key is to choose your ingredients carefully. Start with cooked chicken that already has loads of flavor, whether you’re poaching it yourself or buying a rotisserie bird from the store. Find a mango chutney brand that’s complex and not too sweet. Use a good, tangy mayonnaise, ideally homemade. And — if you can find it — stir in curry paste from a jar instead of curry powder, which, depending on the brand, can have a raw, acrid undertone. |
| The result is a dish for the people that’s fit for a king. Which you might be hard-pressed to say about quiche. | The result is a dish for the people that’s fit for a king. Which you might be hard-pressed to say about quiche. |
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