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Diary: Amazon road trip Diary: Amazon road trip
(about 20 hours later)
The Brazilian government is seeking to repave the almost impassable BR-319 route between Porto Velho and Manaus. But the plan is controversial because the 900 km (560 mile) road cuts right through the Amazon rainforest.The Brazilian government is seeking to repave the almost impassable BR-319 route between Porto Velho and Manaus. But the plan is controversial because the 900 km (560 mile) road cuts right through the Amazon rainforest.
The BBC's Ben Sutherland is travelling along the BR-319; meeting the people whose lives are set to change as the road is upgraded.The BBC's Ben Sutherland is travelling along the BR-319; meeting the people whose lives are set to change as the road is upgraded.
28 OCTOBER: THE GREEN HELL
There are so many unknowns around when and if the BR-319 repaving goes ahead. But one thing that is for certain is who will undertake the work - the country's national army.
Having only so far glimpsed them behind the wheels of their various construction machines along the road, today we got to meet them up close.
This unit of Brazil's national army tries to take care of the Amazon rainforest
We had spent the night in a school in the settlement of Realidade. We had been intending to camp, but some of the local residents allowed us to spend the night in the local school.
There were no teachers around because the next day was payday and they had to travel down the BR-319 to Humaita to collect their wages. a round trip of six hours.
In the morning we were awoken by the noise of 15 Mitsubishi 4x4s thundering past, all being driven by soldiers in army fatigues.
But it turned out the battle they were off to fight was the ancient one between man and nature - and, on this occasion, it seemed they were on nature's side.
They were on their way to lay the first of 27 markers, deep in the rainforest, that would mark the boundary of the protected natural reserve.
These markers are a condition of the repaving project. It cannot begin without them in place.
Since this first marker was therefore a historic moment for the project, we decided to go along to observe - which involved an hour-long trek through the thick jungle, navigating via small cuts put into the trees by the huge machetes the army use to cut through the almost solid walls of vegetation.
By the time we found them, we were exhausted, both from the trek and from the intense humidity. It turned out we were not the only ones.
The soldiers fell the trees so they can create essential markers for satellites
"We call this the green hell," Maj Nilton of the Brazilian army told us, above the jagged roar of a chainsaw.
However, it was not because of any antipathy towards the forest that they were felling trees.
Instead, they were making a clearing big enough to pick up the exact co-ordinates of the boundary from a satellite. Maj Nilton called it a "window to the sky".
It may seem an extreme measure just to ensure a good reception on the sat-nav, but Maj Nilton explained that it was essential.
"We must mark the point correctly, otherwise the people who want to explore the area for their business will complain," he added.
With some of the trees in this part of the Amazon worth up to $150 (£91) per cubic metre, the temptation is clearly strong for the legal loggers to push as close to the protected areas as they can.
Whether these markers will keep out the illegal ones - especially if the road is built - remains to be seen.
27 OCTOBER: LOCAL FEARS27 OCTOBER: LOCAL FEARS
Leaving the town of Humita this morning, we briefly left the BR-319 and joined the Transamazonica, the famous road that runs east to west across Brazil.Leaving the town of Humita this morning, we briefly left the BR-319 and joined the Transamazonica, the famous road that runs east to west across Brazil.
The BR-319 is being extensively developed by Brazil's governmentThe BR-319 is being extensively developed by Brazil's government
Looking like a raw scar through the forest, this road is also undergoing serious redevelopment by the Brazilian army.Looking like a raw scar through the forest, this road is also undergoing serious redevelopment by the Brazilian army.
Our vehicle was frequently enveloped in clouds of thick dust as it passed by the huge, skeletal machines pounding the ground to make it suitable for repaving.Our vehicle was frequently enveloped in clouds of thick dust as it passed by the huge, skeletal machines pounding the ground to make it suitable for repaving.
As we rejoined the BR-319, I was struck by an evocative sight: we saw two vultures gorging on a cow carcass on the side of the road.As we rejoined the BR-319, I was struck by an evocative sight: we saw two vultures gorging on a cow carcass on the side of the road.
Two more watched on a burned tree stalk, wings folded and silent, like a pair of black-cowled monks, wondering perhaps when they would get to join the feast.Two more watched on a burned tree stalk, wings folded and silent, like a pair of black-cowled monks, wondering perhaps when they would get to join the feast.
Soon after we were met by the side of the road by the Indian villages of Tucuma, who had travelled out to meet us in their brightly-painted flatbed truck.Soon after we were met by the side of the road by the Indian villages of Tucuma, who had travelled out to meet us in their brightly-painted flatbed truck.
Around 30 of them had crammed in the back, many of them children - despite the tropical rainstorm that engulfed us.Around 30 of them had crammed in the back, many of them children - despite the tropical rainstorm that engulfed us.
The Indians' main concern is that rebuilding the BR-319 will attract more people into the area with designs on their land.The Indians' main concern is that rebuilding the BR-319 will attract more people into the area with designs on their land.
The local people fear the road will attract land developersThe local people fear the road will attract land developers
They want proper zoning, whereby the area they live in is formally protected by law.They want proper zoning, whereby the area they live in is formally protected by law.
"Many land grabbers operate in this area," said one."Many land grabbers operate in this area," said one.
"This has happened to us before. This is our land. We need to have the rights to it."This has happened to us before. This is our land. We need to have the rights to it.
Their chief, Luiz Apurina, was reluctant to say much about the BR-319 either way: "My feelings are positive," he said guardedly.Their chief, Luiz Apurina, was reluctant to say much about the BR-319 either way: "My feelings are positive," he said guardedly.
Our interview was cut short by a huge tropical downpour - the first we have experienced since the journey began - which sent the Indians back hiding under a tarpaulin, and us back into the 4x4 in order to save our equipment.Our interview was cut short by a huge tropical downpour - the first we have experienced since the journey began - which sent the Indians back hiding under a tarpaulin, and us back into the 4x4 in order to save our equipment.
But for the first time, it seemed to me, we had met people less than convinced about the benefit of repaving this road.But for the first time, it seemed to me, we had met people less than convinced about the benefit of repaving this road.
As we began to head further into the forest, I doubted they would be the last.As we began to head further into the forest, I doubted they would be the last.
26 OCTOBER: JOURNEY FOR REAL26 OCTOBER: JOURNEY FOR REAL
Today was it - the day we finally left Porto Velho and properly began the journey down the chewed-up remnants of the BR-319.Today was it - the day we finally left Porto Velho and properly began the journey down the chewed-up remnants of the BR-319.
But before that, there was one last visit to make. We wanted the official view from Porto Velho on the prospects for the road.But before that, there was one last visit to make. We wanted the official view from Porto Velho on the prospects for the road.
And we could not have got a more fervent answer than that of Cletho Muniz de Brito, minister for environmental development for Rondonia state.And we could not have got a more fervent answer than that of Cletho Muniz de Brito, minister for environmental development for Rondonia state.
"For Rondonia and Amazonas, building the BR-319 will mean what the Channel Tunnel meant for Britain," he said."For Rondonia and Amazonas, building the BR-319 will mean what the Channel Tunnel meant for Britain," he said.
The journey began for real when we joined the BR-319 in Porto VelhoThe journey began for real when we joined the BR-319 in Porto Velho
In saying this, he did not mean it would allow the people of the two states to spend a day shouting in poorly-remembered French and stocking up on duty free.In saying this, he did not mean it would allow the people of the two states to spend a day shouting in poorly-remembered French and stocking up on duty free.
Rather, he was referring to how it will be possible to greatly improve trade relations because goods will no longer require a slow and expensive ferry service between the two cities.Rather, he was referring to how it will be possible to greatly improve trade relations because goods will no longer require a slow and expensive ferry service between the two cities.
A paved BR-319 would cut the travel times for food, for example, from six days to just eight hours.A paved BR-319 would cut the travel times for food, for example, from six days to just eight hours.
The minister contends that the road is essential - although perhaps it should be noted he has the word "development" in his job title - rather than, as in other Brazilian states, ending with the word "environment."The minister contends that the road is essential - although perhaps it should be noted he has the word "development" in his job title - rather than, as in other Brazilian states, ending with the word "environment."
It certainly is worth pointing out that Porto Velho and Manaus are the respective capitals of Rondonia and Amazonas - states that share a border.It certainly is worth pointing out that Porto Velho and Manaus are the respective capitals of Rondonia and Amazonas - states that share a border.
Imagine there being no road between London and Edinburgh, or New York and Washington.Imagine there being no road between London and Edinburgh, or New York and Washington.
But while it is in the city where the case may be heard the loudest, it is probably in the tiny settlement of Renascer - about two hours' drive out of Porto Velho - where it resonates the most.But while it is in the city where the case may be heard the loudest, it is probably in the tiny settlement of Renascer - about two hours' drive out of Porto Velho - where it resonates the most.
Renascer is home to about 70 families, drawn to the area when the BR-319 was first opened in the 1970s.Renascer is home to about 70 families, drawn to the area when the BR-319 was first opened in the 1970s.
They moved after the construction, anticipating that the road would be their route to wealth.They moved after the construction, anticipating that the road would be their route to wealth.
Instead it disintegrated - much like their hopes.Instead it disintegrated - much like their hopes.
A generation or two later their offspring remain here, because there is nowhere else to go.A generation or two later their offspring remain here, because there is nowhere else to go.
Due to a lack of public transport education in Renascer stops at age 12Due to a lack of public transport education in Renascer stops at age 12
The decision by the Ecuatur bus company to abandon its service to Manaus virtually ended public transport options.The decision by the Ecuatur bus company to abandon its service to Manaus virtually ended public transport options.
Without public transport the children of the tiny school here cannot get a secondary education, the nearest one is simply too far away.Without public transport the children of the tiny school here cannot get a secondary education, the nearest one is simply too far away.
Consequently their education stops at 12 years of age.Consequently their education stops at 12 years of age.
Their teacher, Miss Mariah, is one of the few people they see regularly who does live in Porto Velho - who has to go to extraordinary lengths to get to the school.Their teacher, Miss Mariah, is one of the few people they see regularly who does live in Porto Velho - who has to go to extraordinary lengths to get to the school.
Every morning she hitch-hikes in, relying on strangers simply to get to work.Every morning she hitch-hikes in, relying on strangers simply to get to work.
It was ironic then that when we met them her children were having a geography lesson.It was ironic then that when we met them her children were having a geography lesson.
Proponents of the BR-319 would surely point out that unless the paving goes ahead, few of those studying will ever be likely to require such knowledge.Proponents of the BR-319 would surely point out that unless the paving goes ahead, few of those studying will ever be likely to require such knowledge.
25 OCTOBER: OUT IN THE OPEN25 OCTOBER: OUT IN THE OPEN
It is four in the morning, and in the steaming Brazilian night we are flashing the lights of our 4x4 at a small wooden ferry on the other side of the bank of the river at the edge of Porto Velho.It is four in the morning, and in the steaming Brazilian night we are flashing the lights of our 4x4 at a small wooden ferry on the other side of the bank of the river at the edge of Porto Velho.
There is no questionable motive for this - it is simply the only way to get the attention of the ferry crew so they can come and pick us up.There is no questionable motive for this - it is simply the only way to get the attention of the ferry crew so they can come and pick us up.
The ferry runs all night. It has to, there is no bridge. One has been proposed, but will only be constructed if the repaving of the BR-319 goes ahead.The ferry runs all night. It has to, there is no bridge. One has been proposed, but will only be constructed if the repaving of the BR-319 goes ahead.
We are up this early because we want to get to a special part of the Amazon rainforest, and hope to get a look at some of the animals there. Dawn, when they come out to feed, will offer us the best chance of catching a glimpse.We are up this early because we want to get to a special part of the Amazon rainforest, and hope to get a look at some of the animals there. Dawn, when they come out to feed, will offer us the best chance of catching a glimpse.
What is special is that it is not the typical high-canopied dense jungle. Indeed, there are hardly any trees, and those that do stand are barely more than 1 or 2m high.What is special is that it is not the typical high-canopied dense jungle. Indeed, there are hardly any trees, and those that do stand are barely more than 1 or 2m high.
But this is not the result of deforestation - although that is much in evidence along the way. On the contrary, this is natural savannah - a wide expanse of grasses, shrubs and ponds.But this is not the result of deforestation - although that is much in evidence along the way. On the contrary, this is natural savannah - a wide expanse of grasses, shrubs and ponds.
Eric Camara takes a look at the Amazon's savannahEric Camara takes a look at the Amazon's savannah
Places like this occur where the ground is higher in the forest. This one is particularly special, as it was here that earlier this year a species of blue crow, previously unknown to taxonomy, was first identified.Places like this occur where the ground is higher in the forest. This one is particularly special, as it was here that earlier this year a species of blue crow, previously unknown to taxonomy, was first identified.
Our visit is less successful in that respect. We do see a number of macaws, toucans and parakeets, as well as the footprint of a tapir - one of the largest mammals of the Amazon, which can weigh up to 300kg.Our visit is less successful in that respect. We do see a number of macaws, toucans and parakeets, as well as the footprint of a tapir - one of the largest mammals of the Amazon, which can weigh up to 300kg.
We film by the side of a picturesque pond, which proves to be a problem when halfway through a take my colleague Eric, making a piece for BBC Brasil website, is stung on the arm by a particularly vicious-looking insect. He bravely continues for a few words before leaping around and shouting in violent Portuguese. There are a number of guffaws from the watching drivers.We film by the side of a picturesque pond, which proves to be a problem when halfway through a take my colleague Eric, making a piece for BBC Brasil website, is stung on the arm by a particularly vicious-looking insect. He bravely continues for a few words before leaping around and shouting in violent Portuguese. There are a number of guffaws from the watching drivers.
Cattle farming is one of the causes of deforestation - both legal and illegalCattle farming is one of the causes of deforestation - both legal and illegal
Once recording has finished we make our way back to Porto Velho. The savannah ends and the deforested areas begin, huge cows struggle for shade amongst the burned stumps of the cleared land.Once recording has finished we make our way back to Porto Velho. The savannah ends and the deforested areas begin, huge cows struggle for shade amongst the burned stumps of the cleared land.
On the way we meet cattle farmer Juan Gugeiro. He is is partially - and perfectly legally - responsible for some of the deforestation - Brazilian law allows farmers to clear 20% of their land, and he has done so.On the way we meet cattle farmer Juan Gugeiro. He is is partially - and perfectly legally - responsible for some of the deforestation - Brazilian law allows farmers to clear 20% of their land, and he has done so.
"If I want to expand any more, I will have to make the land I already have work harder," he says. "A lot of farmers will tell you the same.""If I want to expand any more, I will have to make the land I already have work harder," he says. "A lot of farmers will tell you the same."
He is all for the BR-319, saying that the economic potential of repaving the road is massive.He is all for the BR-319, saying that the economic potential of repaving the road is massive.
And he has firm words for Western governments who criticise Brazil for not doing enough to stop farmers burning trees.And he has firm words for Western governments who criticise Brazil for not doing enough to stop farmers burning trees.
"What are Europe and the US doing to stop emissions?" he asks. "They destroyed all their forests, and now they want to tell us what to do."What are Europe and the US doing to stop emissions?" he asks. "They destroyed all their forests, and now they want to tell us what to do.
24 OCTOBER: AN ALLURING CHALLENGE24 OCTOBER: AN ALLURING CHALLENGE
It was around 1988 that the BR-319 finally became impassible.It was around 1988 that the BR-319 finally became impassible.
The road that bisects the Amazon rainforest had never really been properly maintained since being built in the 1970s. Every year, the rainy season took away another layer of tarmac.The road that bisects the Amazon rainforest had never really been properly maintained since being built in the 1970s. Every year, the rainy season took away another layer of tarmac.
The potholes were getting deeper; with every vicious bump, more and more drivers were having their crowns knocked from their teeth and the bumpers knocked from their bodywork.The potholes were getting deeper; with every vicious bump, more and more drivers were having their crowns knocked from their teeth and the bumpers knocked from their bodywork.
Ben Sutherland and Luiz Clayton prepare to set out from Porto VelhoBen Sutherland and Luiz Clayton prepare to set out from Porto Velho
Eventually, the Eucatur bus company decided that the damage the road caused their vehicles was such that it was simply not worth running along the route anymore.Eventually, the Eucatur bus company decided that the damage the road caused their vehicles was such that it was simply not worth running along the route anymore.
Subsequently, the road was left to rot and the forest grew back all around it. Its very dilapidated status is what makes the plan to repave it into a shimmering bitumen river so controversial.Subsequently, the road was left to rot and the forest grew back all around it. Its very dilapidated status is what makes the plan to repave it into a shimmering bitumen river so controversial.
But even in its current state, what remains of the road is not completely free of traffic. Indeed, some see its very "impassible" status as a challenge.But even in its current state, what remains of the road is not completely free of traffic. Indeed, some see its very "impassible" status as a challenge.
Amongst them are the Jeep Club of Porto Velho.Amongst them are the Jeep Club of Porto Velho.
Jeep clubs are very popular in Brazil. We saw one as we changed planes in Brasilia; eight or nine men of a certain age, gathered in a crowded coffee lounge, laughing together in identical T-shirts and shorts.Jeep clubs are very popular in Brazil. We saw one as we changed planes in Brasilia; eight or nine men of a certain age, gathered in a crowded coffee lounge, laughing together in identical T-shirts and shorts.
In other countries, this type of person would perhaps go hunting, or on a particularly nasty ramble. Here, they get into 4x4 vehicles - Jeep, or "jipe", being the Portuguese generic term - and challenge themselves to drive through everything this country's wild terrain can throw at them.In other countries, this type of person would perhaps go hunting, or on a particularly nasty ramble. Here, they get into 4x4 vehicles - Jeep, or "jipe", being the Portuguese generic term - and challenge themselves to drive through everything this country's wild terrain can throw at them.
They see themselves as the last adventurers.They see themselves as the last adventurers.
And as our plane climbed into the air over the deep Amazon on the final leg of the flight, it was easy to see the adventure, laid out beneath us: undergrowth like a rampant wig, mud deep enough to drown a hippo - although admittedly, one that had got very lost.And as our plane climbed into the air over the deep Amazon on the final leg of the flight, it was easy to see the adventure, laid out beneath us: undergrowth like a rampant wig, mud deep enough to drown a hippo - although admittedly, one that had got very lost.
Excitement junkies they may be, but reckless they are not. Luiz Cleyton, one of the founders of the Jeep Club of Porto Velho and our driver for this journey, is a researcher on the rainforest for the university here.Excitement junkies they may be, but reckless they are not. Luiz Cleyton, one of the founders of the Jeep Club of Porto Velho and our driver for this journey, is a researcher on the rainforest for the university here.
"We have a passion for studying the Amazon," he says."We have a passion for studying the Amazon," he says.
"Every opportunity to travel around the BR-319 is interesting. I think we will have a very good trip, and we will make the most out of what the people can teach us.""Every opportunity to travel around the BR-319 is interesting. I think we will have a very good trip, and we will make the most out of what the people can teach us."
We hope so too. Sunday we make our first excursion into the rainforest, before leaving Porto Velho properly on Monday. It will be a chance for us to experience some of that adventure for ourselves - and to share it with you.We hope so too. Sunday we make our first excursion into the rainforest, before leaving Porto Velho properly on Monday. It will be a chance for us to experience some of that adventure for ourselves - and to share it with you.
23 OCTOBER: BEFORE THE JOURNEY23 OCTOBER: BEFORE THE JOURNEY
The BR-319 was originally built in the 1970s, but abandoned after a decade - the military government of the time failing in its effort to develop the region.The BR-319 was originally built in the 1970s, but abandoned after a decade - the military government of the time failing in its effort to develop the region.
The major part of what remains is little more than a 900km dirt track.The major part of what remains is little more than a 900km dirt track.
But this is all set to change - and the BBC is going to find out how and who will be affected.But this is all set to change - and the BBC is going to find out how and who will be affected.
The federal government is seeking to push ahead with plans to improve the BR-319, seeing it as key to boosting the region's economy.The federal government is seeking to push ahead with plans to improve the BR-319, seeing it as key to boosting the region's economy.
Manaus is one of the country's most isolated cities, but with a permanent link to Porto Velho and the Latin American countries that lie beyond, there are hopes that some of the poorest areas of the country can be opened up for growth and development.Manaus is one of the country's most isolated cities, but with a permanent link to Porto Velho and the Latin American countries that lie beyond, there are hopes that some of the poorest areas of the country can be opened up for growth and development.
However, the plan is not without opposition.However, the plan is not without opposition.
Many environmental groups have raised concerns about the potential destruction the road could cause to the rainforest.Many environmental groups have raised concerns about the potential destruction the road could cause to the rainforest.
This is an area where a total of 130 military police are tasked with preventing illegal logging.This is an area where a total of 130 military police are tasked with preventing illegal logging.
How they go about this task, and how rebuilding the road might change their approach, is just one of the stories we will be looking at once we head into the forest.How they go about this task, and how rebuilding the road might change their approach, is just one of the stories we will be looking at once we head into the forest.
I will be travelling with my colleagues Eric Camara from BBC Brasil and Rami Ruhayem from BBC Arabic along the BR-319, documenting the lives of the people who live along it.I will be travelling with my colleagues Eric Camara from BBC Brasil and Rami Ruhayem from BBC Arabic along the BR-319, documenting the lives of the people who live along it.
Ultimately, we are hoping to build a full archive of life along this hugely controversial piece of highway, before it is changed forever.Ultimately, we are hoping to build a full archive of life along this hugely controversial piece of highway, before it is changed forever.