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| Kenya coffee: Farmers face the double whammy of poor pay and climate change | |
| (about 1 month later) | |
| In the lush, volcanic highlands of Komothai in central Kenya, farmers like Simon Macharia produce coffee on small plantations scattered across the hillsides. | In the lush, volcanic highlands of Komothai in central Kenya, farmers like Simon Macharia produce coffee on small plantations scattered across the hillsides. |
| Along with other farmers, Mr Macharia brings sacks of his bright red coffee cherries to the local processing plant, where they are weighed and treated. | Along with other farmers, Mr Macharia brings sacks of his bright red coffee cherries to the local processing plant, where they are weighed and treated. |
| A machine removes the red husks, and the pale beans inside are washed and passed along concrete channels, ending up on lines of drying platforms that sweep across the valley. | A machine removes the red husks, and the pale beans inside are washed and passed along concrete channels, ending up on lines of drying platforms that sweep across the valley. |
| Here, workers categorise the beans into grades, the highest destined for the coffee houses of Europe. | Here, workers categorise the beans into grades, the highest destined for the coffee houses of Europe. |
| "We call coffee the black gold around here," Mr Macharia, whose farm covers 2.5 hectares (six acres) , told the BBC. | "We call coffee the black gold around here," Mr Macharia, whose farm covers 2.5 hectares (six acres) , told the BBC. |
| He grows the Kenya AA coffee beans, which are prized worldwide for their high quality, full body, deep aromas and fruity flavour. | He grows the Kenya AA coffee beans, which are prized worldwide for their high quality, full body, deep aromas and fruity flavour. |
| Once harvested the beans need to be taken from the berries and then dried | Once harvested the beans need to be taken from the berries and then dried |
| The crop has been part of these lush highlands since the late 1890s, when British colonial settlers introduced it. | The crop has been part of these lush highlands since the late 1890s, when British colonial settlers introduced it. |
| Now, the area is famous for its unique, top-rated coffee. | Now, the area is famous for its unique, top-rated coffee. |
| Growing the berries is labour intensive - picking, pruning, weeding, spraying, fertilising and transporting the products. | Growing the berries is labour intensive - picking, pruning, weeding, spraying, fertilising and transporting the products. |
| "Coffee requires your full-time concentration, especially when it starts to bloom," Mr Macharia said. | "Coffee requires your full-time concentration, especially when it starts to bloom," Mr Macharia said. |
| "From that moment up until the day that you are going to harvest - those six months, your full-time job is on the farm." | "From that moment up until the day that you are going to harvest - those six months, your full-time job is on the farm." |
| The bean that could change the taste of coffee | The bean that could change the taste of coffee |
| Coffee price surges to highest on record | Coffee price surges to highest on record |
| A coffee tree is a huge investment for cash-strapped farmers, as it can take four years for the fruits to mature. | A coffee tree is a huge investment for cash-strapped farmers, as it can take four years for the fruits to mature. |
| The price of a single cup of coffee in a chic European café, typically $4 (£3.20), highlights a stark disparity when compared to the earnings of many Kenyan coffee labourers, who make at most $2.30 a day. | The price of a single cup of coffee in a chic European café, typically $4 (£3.20), highlights a stark disparity when compared to the earnings of many Kenyan coffee labourers, who make at most $2.30 a day. |
| Edita Mwangi, who harvests coffee cherries on the red earth hillside overlooking the processing plant, confirms this. | Edita Mwangi, who harvests coffee cherries on the red earth hillside overlooking the processing plant, confirms this. |
| "They don't know the poverty we suffer. You have to struggle day and night just to survive," she said. | "They don't know the poverty we suffer. You have to struggle day and night just to survive," she said. |
| With four children depending on her, Ms Mwangi works six days a week, earning about $1.40 a day. | With four children depending on her, Ms Mwangi works six days a week, earning about $1.40 a day. |
| She has to walk 5km (three miles) to reach the farm where she works. | She has to walk 5km (three miles) to reach the farm where she works. |
| The daily wage of most Kenyan coffee workers is less than the price of a cup of coffee in Europe | The daily wage of most Kenyan coffee workers is less than the price of a cup of coffee in Europe |
| Farmers feel the trading system between Kenya and Europe - the world's largest coffee market - has been stacked against them for many years. | Farmers feel the trading system between Kenya and Europe - the world's largest coffee market - has been stacked against them for many years. |
| But now, a new threat looms, jeopardising farmers' ability to make a living - climate change. | But now, a new threat looms, jeopardising farmers' ability to make a living - climate change. |
| Coffee trees are extremely sensitive to small differences in temperature and weather conditions. | Coffee trees are extremely sensitive to small differences in temperature and weather conditions. |
| They also need specific climatic conditions like humid temperatures and ample rainfall to grow. | They also need specific climatic conditions like humid temperatures and ample rainfall to grow. |
| "Climate change is a major challenge for our coffee farmers," says John Murigi, the chairman of the Komothai Coffee Society, which represents 8,000 coffee farmers like Mr Macharia. | "Climate change is a major challenge for our coffee farmers," says John Murigi, the chairman of the Komothai Coffee Society, which represents 8,000 coffee farmers like Mr Macharia. |
| Cold temperatures and erratic rainfall are having a devastating impact on the delicate coffee plants, said Mr Murigi. | Cold temperatures and erratic rainfall are having a devastating impact on the delicate coffee plants, said Mr Murigi. |
| As a result, "coffee production has decreased over the last few years". | As a result, "coffee production has decreased over the last few years". |
| He added that climate change was intensifying the spread of diseases in coffee plants. | He added that climate change was intensifying the spread of diseases in coffee plants. |
| Mr Murigi said there had been a significant increase in coffee leaf miners, bugs that feed on coffee leaves, and coffee berry disease, a destructive fungal infection that can wipe out more than 80% of crops. | Mr Murigi said there had been a significant increase in coffee leaf miners, bugs that feed on coffee leaves, and coffee berry disease, a destructive fungal infection that can wipe out more than 80% of crops. |
| To deal with the increasing outbreaks, farmers are resorting to using herbicides and insecticides that can damage soil quality in the long term and also pose health risks. | To deal with the increasing outbreaks, farmers are resorting to using herbicides and insecticides that can damage soil quality in the long term and also pose health risks. |
| The beans that are harvested are washed and dried near the farm | The beans that are harvested are washed and dried near the farm |
| To produce a single cup of coffee can require up to 140 litres of water - including the water to grow the plants. | To produce a single cup of coffee can require up to 140 litres of water - including the water to grow the plants. |
| But higher temperatures and changing rainfall patterns mean a decreasing water supply for coffee farmers in Kiambu County. | But higher temperatures and changing rainfall patterns mean a decreasing water supply for coffee farmers in Kiambu County. |
| Farmer Joseph Kimani told the BBC that the "river levels have gone down a lot" due to erratic weather, such as periods of drought and heavy rains. | Farmer Joseph Kimani told the BBC that the "river levels have gone down a lot" due to erratic weather, such as periods of drought and heavy rains. |
| He said that because of the lack of rain, farmers are forced to use more river water. | He said that because of the lack of rain, farmers are forced to use more river water. |
| But this increased reliance on river water, driven by the lack of rainfall, may be further straining the already limited water supply. | But this increased reliance on river water, driven by the lack of rainfall, may be further straining the already limited water supply. |
| While Mr Murigi acknowledges the rise in water use by coffee farmers, he denies this is why the river is drying up. | While Mr Murigi acknowledges the rise in water use by coffee farmers, he denies this is why the river is drying up. |
| However, with 23 coffee societies in this region, a significant amount of water is clearly being used in the coffee growing process in Kiambu County. | However, with 23 coffee societies in this region, a significant amount of water is clearly being used in the coffee growing process in Kiambu County. |
| Komothia's story is not unique. As global temperatures and droughts increase, good coffee will become difficult to grow in all parts of the world. | Komothia's story is not unique. As global temperatures and droughts increase, good coffee will become difficult to grow in all parts of the world. |
| Once the beans are dried they are then usually exported for further processing | Once the beans are dried they are then usually exported for further processing |
| Coffee can only be grown in the "coffee belt" - tropical regions around the world in areas typically located at an altitude of between 1,000m and 2,000m. | Coffee can only be grown in the "coffee belt" - tropical regions around the world in areas typically located at an altitude of between 1,000m and 2,000m. |
| In recent years, climate change has led to a shortage of global coffee supplies and an increase in the price of coffee due to drought and crop failures in several key coffee-producing nations such as Brazil and Vietnam. | In recent years, climate change has led to a shortage of global coffee supplies and an increase in the price of coffee due to drought and crop failures in several key coffee-producing nations such as Brazil and Vietnam. |
| A survey by the Fairtrade Foundation found that 93% of Kenyan coffee farmers are already experiencing the effects of climate change. | A survey by the Fairtrade Foundation found that 93% of Kenyan coffee farmers are already experiencing the effects of climate change. |
| The coffee industry in Kenya is a key source of employment, providing jobs for an estimated 150,000 people. | The coffee industry in Kenya is a key source of employment, providing jobs for an estimated 150,000 people. |
| To protect the industry, coffee farmers in areas like Komothai are experimenting with climate adaptation techniques, such as planting trees to provide extra shade for the coffee plants. | To protect the industry, coffee farmers in areas like Komothai are experimenting with climate adaptation techniques, such as planting trees to provide extra shade for the coffee plants. |
| Mr Murigi said it is only through addressing both the climate and economic challenges faced by Kenyan coffee farmers that they can have a sustainable future. | Mr Murigi said it is only through addressing both the climate and economic challenges faced by Kenyan coffee farmers that they can have a sustainable future. |
| However, coffee farmers like Mr Macharia are pessimistic about the industry's future. | However, coffee farmers like Mr Macharia are pessimistic about the industry's future. |
| "Right now, as things stand, I don't think any parent wants their child here farming coffee," he said. | "Right now, as things stand, I don't think any parent wants their child here farming coffee," he said. |
| Update 2 January 2025: We have removed a reference to glyphosates causing cancer from this article because the evidence remains unclear. | Update 2 January 2025: We have removed a reference to glyphosates causing cancer from this article because the evidence remains unclear. |
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