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The place to take the Afghan pulse The place to take the Afghan pulse
(about 6 hours later)
The hustle and bustle of life at Kabul's Sar-e Chowk roundabout Watch the film in full
By Lyse Doucet Sar-e Chowk, KabulBy Lyse Doucet Sar-e Chowk, Kabul
Once upon a time in Kabul, there was only one roundabout. And what a place it was - a heaving tide of humanity converged on this central axis in the city, an unrivalled space for commerce and conversation.Once upon a time in Kabul, there was only one roundabout. And what a place it was - a heaving tide of humanity converged on this central axis in the city, an unrivalled space for commerce and conversation.
All roads led to the roundabout and so did the news.All roads led to the roundabout and so did the news.
Constable Jamil has the difficult task of keeping the traffic flowingConstable Jamil has the difficult task of keeping the traffic flowing
During the 16th Century reign of the Mogul Emperor Babur it was known as the "navel of Kabul".During the 16th Century reign of the Mogul Emperor Babur it was known as the "navel of Kabul".
Afghans met at this point, from across Kabul and across the country.Afghans met at this point, from across Kabul and across the country.
In the late 19th Century, writes Afghan historian Asif Ahang, "the clever king Amir Abdul Rahman Khan used to check what the people said on the roundabout before executing any decision".In the late 19th Century, writes Afghan historian Asif Ahang, "the clever king Amir Abdul Rahman Khan used to check what the people said on the roundabout before executing any decision".
To this day, Afghans ask, in Dari, about Akbar-e Sar-e Chowk - the news from the roundabout.To this day, Afghans ask, in Dari, about Akbar-e Sar-e Chowk - the news from the roundabout.
If newly re-elected President Hamid Karzai sent his envoy there what would he find?If newly re-elected President Hamid Karzai sent his envoy there what would he find?
It is still a heaving vortex, a tide of four-wheeled and four-legged conveyance. Horse and human drawn carts jostle with buses and barrows.It is still a heaving vortex, a tide of four-wheeled and four-legged conveyance. Horse and human drawn carts jostle with buses and barrows.
Shouted ordersShouted orders
It is Constable Jamil's beat. The moustachioed policeman with an impressive peaked hat keeps it all moving with piercing whistle blasts and emphatic hand signals.It is Constable Jamil's beat. The moustachioed policeman with an impressive peaked hat keeps it all moving with piercing whistle blasts and emphatic hand signals.
These women are forced to sell their clothes to raise money for foodThese women are forced to sell their clothes to raise money for food
His megaphone cuts through the cacophony: "Bus driver! Do you know your right or left, oh brother? Fellow citizens... please clear the road."His megaphone cuts through the cacophony: "Bus driver! Do you know your right or left, oh brother? Fellow citizens... please clear the road."
The traffic goes round - in a fashion - and so does the news.The traffic goes round - in a fashion - and so does the news.
On the metal balcony of the roundabout restaurant we met three men who had travelled from the north, south and east of the country. Strangers shared food, and frustrations.On the metal balcony of the roundabout restaurant we met three men who had travelled from the north, south and east of the country. Strangers shared food, and frustrations.
Sattar Shah, from the northern province of Baghlan, told us a tale of woe. He said his tractor was taken by corrupt officials whom he accused of wanting a bribe to give it back.Sattar Shah, from the northern province of Baghlan, told us a tale of woe. He said his tractor was taken by corrupt officials whom he accused of wanting a bribe to give it back.
A bearded farmer with sad drooping eyes, complained: "No-one listens to us. I can't reach President Karzai or any other authority." And he had a warning too: "We have no choice but to turn to the Taliban or road robbery!"A bearded farmer with sad drooping eyes, complained: "No-one listens to us. I can't reach President Karzai or any other authority." And he had a warning too: "We have no choice but to turn to the Taliban or road robbery!"
DesperationDesperation
For some who descend on this place the roundabout is their last hope. In one of the poorest nations in the world, they are the poorest of the poor.For some who descend on this place the roundabout is their last hope. In one of the poorest nations in the world, they are the poorest of the poor.
Sattar Shah said he had fallen prey to the country's widespread corruptionSattar Shah said he had fallen prey to the country's widespread corruption
Rahmini hid her identity behind an all enveloping blue burqa as she sat on a jumble of her family's clothes, but there was no hiding her desperation:Rahmini hid her identity behind an all enveloping blue burqa as she sat on a jumble of her family's clothes, but there was no hiding her desperation:
"I have no life," she wailed, gesturing to the garments she was trying to sell to afford something to eat."I have no life," she wailed, gesturing to the garments she was trying to sell to afford something to eat.
White-bearded Enayat stopped us as we went round the roundabout. Gesturing in the direction of the presidential palace, only a mile down the road, he said: "We respect the president. He is our elder."White-bearded Enayat stopped us as we went round the roundabout. Gesturing in the direction of the presidential palace, only a mile down the road, he said: "We respect the president. He is our elder."
But he was concerned about the ongoing security problems saying: "It is bad here, and it is worse in the provinces. The president must talk to the Taliban."But he was concerned about the ongoing security problems saying: "It is bad here, and it is worse in the provinces. The president must talk to the Taliban."
Intelligence gatheringIntelligence gathering
We heard a more positive assessment from a young man who spends his time taking the positive from the negative. Twenty-year-old Pervaiz, who has never been to school, takes pictures using a wooden box of a camera that dates back to the dawn of photography.We heard a more positive assessment from a young man who spends his time taking the positive from the negative. Twenty-year-old Pervaiz, who has never been to school, takes pictures using a wooden box of a camera that dates back to the dawn of photography.
Harking back to the days when the roundabout was a frontline in a brutal civil war in the 90s he said "Things are better now".Harking back to the days when the roundabout was a frontline in a brutal civil war in the 90s he said "Things are better now".
Pervaiz, who has never been to school, earns a living taking photosPervaiz, who has never been to school, earns a living taking photos
But today there is a new threat - swine flu. The paper masks which some wear provide thin protection and most know that if the disease spreads here there is not much to stop it.But today there is a new threat - swine flu. The paper masks which some wear provide thin protection and most know that if the disease spreads here there is not much to stop it.
Every Afghan at the roundabout seemed to be fighting one battle after another in a place defined by a battered monument to Afghanistan's Unknown Soldier.Every Afghan at the roundabout seemed to be fighting one battle after another in a place defined by a battered monument to Afghanistan's Unknown Soldier.
"I will serve my people until my last drop of blood," vowed Constable Jamil."I will serve my people until my last drop of blood," vowed Constable Jamil.
His message to the president? It was not surprising for a traffic policeman - better roads - and he suggested Mr Karzai should listen to his people.His message to the president? It was not surprising for a traffic policeman - better roads - and he suggested Mr Karzai should listen to his people.
High above the traffic, a white surveillance blimp bobbed above the presidential palace. The eye in the sky is one of the most modern of ways to gather intelligence.High above the traffic, a white surveillance blimp bobbed above the presidential palace. The eye in the sky is one of the most modern of ways to gather intelligence.
But the president might find the old ways of kings still work best today.But the president might find the old ways of kings still work best today.
Watch Lyse Doucet's report from the Kabul roundabout on Newsnight on Thursday 12 November at 10.30pm on BBC Two.