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Topshop returns to the high street, but can it get its cool back? | Topshop returns to the high street, but can it get its cool back? |
(about 1 hour later) | |
Cara Delevingne, thought to be appearing at the first Topshop catwalk in seven years on Saturday, seen here at a previous Topshop event in 2014 | Cara Delevingne, thought to be appearing at the first Topshop catwalk in seven years on Saturday, seen here at a previous Topshop event in 2014 |
For teenage girls like me in the 2000s and 2010s, going into a Topshop store was like being transported into a fantasy world. | For teenage girls like me in the 2000s and 2010s, going into a Topshop store was like being transported into a fantasy world. |
There was music! Makeup! And fashion! All under one roof - with Topshop clothes often found on the pages of Vogue alongside high-end couture. | There was music! Makeup! And fashion! All under one roof - with Topshop clothes often found on the pages of Vogue alongside high-end couture. |
But somewhere along the way, things went wrong. | But somewhere along the way, things went wrong. |
"Topshop lost its cool," said fashion journalist Amber Graafland. | "Topshop lost its cool," said fashion journalist Amber Graafland. |
"And when that happens, it's hard. Fashion is a fickle beast, people move on quickly." | "And when that happens, it's hard. Fashion is a fickle beast, people move on quickly." |
Then in 2020, its owner, Sir Philip Green's Arcadia group, collapsed. All of Topshop's physical stores shut soon after. | Then in 2020, its owner, Sir Philip Green's Arcadia group, collapsed. All of Topshop's physical stores shut soon after. |
But Topshop is now launching a major comeback. | But Topshop is now launching a major comeback. |
Standalone stores are returning to the High Street, Michelle Wilson, managing director of Topshop and Topman, confirmed to BBC News. | Standalone stores are returning to the High Street, Michelle Wilson, managing director of Topshop and Topman, confirmed to BBC News. |
And on Saturday, Topshop is hosting its first catwalk show for seven years in Trafalgar Square. We’ve been told long-time brand muse model Cara Delevingne will be there. | And on Saturday, Topshop is hosting its first catwalk show for seven years in Trafalgar Square. We’ve been told long-time brand muse model Cara Delevingne will be there. |
It seems absence (and nostalgia) makes the heart grow fonder. As rumours of Topshop's imminent return have been met by a wave of affection on social media, particularly among millennials and Gen-Z. | It seems absence (and nostalgia) makes the heart grow fonder. As rumours of Topshop's imminent return have been met by a wave of affection on social media, particularly among millennials and Gen-Z. |
But industry experts say it will take more than nostalgia to make Topshop 2.0 a success. | But industry experts say it will take more than nostalgia to make Topshop 2.0 a success. |
'They need to entice younger girls' | 'They need to entice younger girls' |
Kate Moss has also been a face of Topshop in the past | Kate Moss has also been a face of Topshop in the past |
One of the challenges that Topshop will face is attracting a new wave of shoppers through the doors. | One of the challenges that Topshop will face is attracting a new wave of shoppers through the doors. |
Its previous core following are now women in their late 20s and 30s, but it can’t just rely on them, says Graafland. | Its previous core following are now women in their late 20s and 30s, but it can’t just rely on them, says Graafland. |
"They will need to work hard to entice younger girls in," she said. | "They will need to work hard to entice younger girls in," she said. |
What might help, though, is the nostalgia trend that has taken over social media feeds and High Streets in recent months (Joni jeans, anyone?) | What might help, though, is the nostalgia trend that has taken over social media feeds and High Streets in recent months (Joni jeans, anyone?) |
Topshop's team, for their part, think they can attract both older and newer groups. | Topshop's team, for their part, think they can attract both older and newer groups. |
"We want to deliver for those that are nostalgic for a brand that they felt like they lost," Wilson said. | "We want to deliver for those that are nostalgic for a brand that they felt like they lost," Wilson said. |
"But we absolutely want to appeal to a new demographic as well." | "But we absolutely want to appeal to a new demographic as well." |
Why Gen Z is so nostalgic about 'indie sleaze' | Why Gen Z is so nostalgic about 'indie sleaze' |
Then, there's the fashion. For me, shopping in Topshop as a teenager made me feel like the 'it girl'. | Then, there's the fashion. For me, shopping in Topshop as a teenager made me feel like the 'it girl'. |
On Saturdays, you'd breeze through racks to find the one item that justified taking money out of your barely-there bank balance. | On Saturdays, you'd breeze through racks to find the one item that justified taking money out of your barely-there bank balance. |
When you bought it, you'd act nonchalant. "Oh this old thing? It's from Topshop," you'd tell your school friends, as if you could afford it all the time. | When you bought it, you'd act nonchalant. "Oh this old thing? It's from Topshop," you'd tell your school friends, as if you could afford it all the time. |
And I wasn't the only one. Huge crowds would throng to the London landmark store to witness the launch of new ranges from A-listers like Beyoncé and Kate Moss. | And I wasn't the only one. Huge crowds would throng to the London landmark store to witness the launch of new ranges from A-listers like Beyoncé and Kate Moss. |
The launch of a new Kate Moss Topshop collection would always draw large crowds to the flagship Oxford Street store | The launch of a new Kate Moss Topshop collection would always draw large crowds to the flagship Oxford Street store |
In the 90s and 00s, designers "used to laugh at High Street fashion", said Wayne Hemingway, a designer and co-founder of Red or Dead. | In the 90s and 00s, designers "used to laugh at High Street fashion", said Wayne Hemingway, a designer and co-founder of Red or Dead. |
"They couldn't keep up with the trends. Topshop was the only one that did." | "They couldn't keep up with the trends. Topshop was the only one that did." |
Hemingway, who worked with Topshop through its heyday, said a large part of its success was down to the team behind it, including Jane Shepherdson, its hugely influential brand director. | Hemingway, who worked with Topshop through its heyday, said a large part of its success was down to the team behind it, including Jane Shepherdson, its hugely influential brand director. |
"They brought in second hand clothes for example, that's normal now, but back then it was seen as absolutely radical to have a shopping department store doing that," he said. | "They brought in second hand clothes for example, that's normal now, but back then it was seen as absolutely radical to have a shopping department store doing that," he said. |
"You had the collaborations, the London Fashion Walk catwalk, all this design and excitement at High Street prices. It was so fresh, everyone wanted to be part of it." | "You had the collaborations, the London Fashion Walk catwalk, all this design and excitement at High Street prices. It was so fresh, everyone wanted to be part of it." |
But over time, what people were looking for changed - and Topshop didn't always keep up, said Graafland. | But over time, what people were looking for changed - and Topshop didn't always keep up, said Graafland. |
Four reasons Topshop is not the brand it once was | Four reasons Topshop is not the brand it once was |
"They offered that unique London look. Then the girls who shopped there grew up, and they didn't want that look anymore," she said. | "They offered that unique London look. Then the girls who shopped there grew up, and they didn't want that look anymore," she said. |
"You cannot afford to take your finger off pulse for one minute in fashion." | "You cannot afford to take your finger off pulse for one minute in fashion." |
She added that Topshop 2.0 would benefit from the fact its core aesthetic - the London girl look - is back in style, and that not many other retailers are offering it. | She added that Topshop 2.0 would benefit from the fact its core aesthetic - the London girl look - is back in style, and that not many other retailers are offering it. |
"If you look at the High Street now, there's a strong Spanish presence, with the likes of Zara, and also a Swedish presence with H&M. When Arcadia collapsed, we lost that Britishness," she said. | "If you look at the High Street now, there's a strong Spanish presence, with the likes of Zara, and also a Swedish presence with H&M. When Arcadia collapsed, we lost that Britishness," she said. |
She added that a lot of the High Street is "playing it safe right now", and that could also work in Topshop's favour if can "get that cool edge back". | She added that a lot of the High Street is "playing it safe right now", and that could also work in Topshop's favour if can "get that cool edge back". |
Topshop’s team is confident that it can still win over shoppers with its trademark London-based swagger. | Topshop’s team is confident that it can still win over shoppers with its trademark London-based swagger. |
"We still think there's a huge gap in the market for that," Wilson said. | "We still think there's a huge gap in the market for that," Wilson said. |
"The most important thing that we won't forget, and maybe got forgotten about towards the end of the previous era, is that product is everything. | "The most important thing that we won't forget, and maybe got forgotten about towards the end of the previous era, is that product is everything. |
"It has to be the best quality product, the most fashionable product for our customer base, and bringing that at good value." | "It has to be the best quality product, the most fashionable product for our customer base, and bringing that at good value." |
And then there are the prices | And then there are the prices |
Few people will forget the buzz around the Kate Moss collection in 2007, and the red dress she wore in the window for the launch | Few people will forget the buzz around the Kate Moss collection in 2007, and the red dress she wore in the window for the launch |
Topshop's popularity peaked in the heady years before the cost of living crisis. Its team are aware of the stiff competition it now faces. | Topshop's popularity peaked in the heady years before the cost of living crisis. Its team are aware of the stiff competition it now faces. |
A pair of Topshop jeans will easily set you back about £50. Chinese fast fashion giant Shein offers them for about £17. | A pair of Topshop jeans will easily set you back about £50. Chinese fast fashion giant Shein offers them for about £17. |
"If we're just comparing Shein, then yes, I think most brands on the planet are at a higher price point than Shein," Wilson said. | "If we're just comparing Shein, then yes, I think most brands on the planet are at a higher price point than Shein," Wilson said. |
But she added: "We know that when we offer great fashion and great value for money then the product does sell very well, so absolutely no concerns about that to be honest." | But she added: "We know that when we offer great fashion and great value for money then the product does sell very well, so absolutely no concerns about that to be honest." |
While Topshop might not churn out new pieces at the breakneck speed of its online-only rivals, in the past, it's still faced questions over its environmental record. | While Topshop might not churn out new pieces at the breakneck speed of its online-only rivals, in the past, it's still faced questions over its environmental record. |
For younger shoppers, this can be an important factor in deciding where to go. | For younger shoppers, this can be an important factor in deciding where to go. |
Wilson, however, indicates the higher prices reflect a more sustainable model. | Wilson, however, indicates the higher prices reflect a more sustainable model. |
The firm's focus, she said, is very much "on the livelihoods of people within the supply chain that we partner with and also the environmental impacts of the brand". | The firm's focus, she said, is very much "on the livelihoods of people within the supply chain that we partner with and also the environmental impacts of the brand". |
'There's got to be a buzz around it' | 'There's got to be a buzz around it' |
Cara Delevingne has long been associated with Topshop and attended Saturday's event | |
After Sir Green's retail empire collapsed, the Topshop brand was bought by Asos. | After Sir Green's retail empire collapsed, the Topshop brand was bought by Asos. |
You can still buy the items online on their website - but now, in-store shopping is coming back. | You can still buy the items online on their website - but now, in-store shopping is coming back. |
Topshop's return to the High Street starts this month, with products set to be available to buy in certain stores. | Topshop's return to the High Street starts this month, with products set to be available to buy in certain stores. |
But of course, the real interest is in the standalone stores which Wilson said are "definitely" coming back. | But of course, the real interest is in the standalone stores which Wilson said are "definitely" coming back. |
She wouldn't give a date for their return, but said the aim was to open stores across the nation. | She wouldn't give a date for their return, but said the aim was to open stores across the nation. |
Topshop is choosing to relaunch at a time when the High Street continues to struggle. Just days ago, fashion accessories chain Claire's collapsed into administration. | Topshop is choosing to relaunch at a time when the High Street continues to struggle. Just days ago, fashion accessories chain Claire's collapsed into administration. |
But Wilson said lessons have been learnt after what happened to Topshop 1.0. | But Wilson said lessons have been learnt after what happened to Topshop 1.0. |
"We're just making sure we do it in the right way so that we don't over-expand ourselves," she said. | "We're just making sure we do it in the right way so that we don't over-expand ourselves," she said. |
As for the stores themselves, it remains to be seen if they'll have the same vibe as before. | As for the stores themselves, it remains to be seen if they'll have the same vibe as before. |
For me, it was where I met friends after school, tried on eye shadow for the first time, and listened to DJs pumping out dance music. | For me, it was where I met friends after school, tried on eye shadow for the first time, and listened to DJs pumping out dance music. |
In some stores you were able to order skinny caramel lattes, get your hair and nails done, and maybe even get a piercing or two if your mum wasn't watching. | In some stores you were able to order skinny caramel lattes, get your hair and nails done, and maybe even get a piercing or two if your mum wasn't watching. |
"Fashion is only part of the story. It's about selling a lifestyle and an experience," Graafland said. "There's got to be that buzz around it." | "Fashion is only part of the story. It's about selling a lifestyle and an experience," Graafland said. "There's got to be that buzz around it." |
Topshop’s team say they won't necessarily be replicating what it used to do, but rather, "finding ways to bring that into 2025 and do interesting things". | Topshop’s team say they won't necessarily be replicating what it used to do, but rather, "finding ways to bring that into 2025 and do interesting things". |
Overall, the hopes are high. | Overall, the hopes are high. |
"They will get the girls to the stores, I don't doubt it,” Graafland said. | "They will get the girls to the stores, I don't doubt it,” Graafland said. |
“The question is whether they can keep them there.” | “The question is whether they can keep them there.” |