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‘For Russians, Nato is next to Satan’: Finnish guards on alert at Russia border | ‘For Russians, Nato is next to Satan’: Finnish guards on alert at Russia border |
(32 minutes later) | |
North Karelia force says fence dividing Finland and Russia is no Berlin Wall – but it is now a key geopolitical faultline | |
Among the serene lakes, thick forest and summer houses of North Karelia’s border zone, the line between Finland and Russia is almost invisible. Walking along the border path in Meriinaho, part of the Finnish border guard station of Ilomantsi, we are closer to St Petersburg than to Helsinki. This is the most easterly point of the continental European Union. | Among the serene lakes, thick forest and summer houses of North Karelia’s border zone, the line between Finland and Russia is almost invisible. Walking along the border path in Meriinaho, part of the Finnish border guard station of Ilomantsi, we are closer to St Petersburg than to Helsinki. This is the most easterly point of the continental European Union. |
Every now and then a discreet pair of matching striped fibreglass posts pop up from the blueberry patches on either side of the frontier. One is painted blue and white to indicate Finland, the other green and red to mark Russia. | Every now and then a discreet pair of matching striped fibreglass posts pop up from the blueberry patches on either side of the frontier. One is painted blue and white to indicate Finland, the other green and red to mark Russia. |
Despite generations of tensions and several wars, until recently these sparsely planted bollards – plus surveillance by Finnish and Russian border guards – were deemed sufficient to demarcate the neighbours. But the mood on both sides of the 830-mile (1,340km) frontier, now also a critical Nato border, is changing fast. | Despite generations of tensions and several wars, until recently these sparsely planted bollards – plus surveillance by Finnish and Russian border guards – were deemed sufficient to demarcate the neighbours. But the mood on both sides of the 830-mile (1,340km) frontier, now also a critical Nato border, is changing fast. |
Last week as he sat down at the White House with Volodymyr Zelenskyy and Donald Trump for talks on how to end the war in Ukraine, Finland’s president, Alexander Stubb, drew on the border to convey to the US president Europe’s collective concern. | Last week as he sat down at the White House with Volodymyr Zelenskyy and Donald Trump for talks on how to end the war in Ukraine, Finland’s president, Alexander Stubb, drew on the border to convey to the US president Europe’s collective concern. |
He told Trump: “We might come from a small country but we have a long border with Russia, over 800 miles. And we of course have our own historical experience with Russia, from world war two, the winter war and the war of continuation.” | He told Trump: “We might come from a small country but we have a long border with Russia, over 800 miles. And we of course have our own historical experience with Russia, from world war two, the winter war and the war of continuation.” |
In an attempt to strike a note of optimism, he added: “We found a solution in 1944 and I’m sure that we will be able to find a solution in 2025.” | In an attempt to strike a note of optimism, he added: “We found a solution in 1944 and I’m sure that we will be able to find a solution in 2025.” |
But, away from best-case scenarios discussed in meeting rooms, that solution remains elusive. And in this corner of Europe the threat from the Kremlin is taken increasingly seriously. | But, away from best-case scenarios discussed in meeting rooms, that solution remains elusive. And in this corner of Europe the threat from the Kremlin is taken increasingly seriously. |
After his election last year, Stubb used his first trip as president to visit the border in North Karelia and to assert that “all measures must be taken” to keep the whole country inhabited. “We cannot afford to allow eastern Finland, northern Finland or any region in Finland to wither away,” he said. | After his election last year, Stubb used his first trip as president to visit the border in North Karelia and to assert that “all measures must be taken” to keep the whole country inhabited. “We cannot afford to allow eastern Finland, northern Finland or any region in Finland to wither away,” he said. |
Moscow’s manoeuvring | Moscow’s manoeuvring |
Since Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022, Finland has rapidly changed its positioning. It joined Nato at record speed and later made the drastic decision to indefinitely close its entire border with Russia, accusing Moscow of directing asylum seekers to Finland in a “hybrid operation”. It is now building sections of barrier fence along 120 miles of the border, aimed chiefly at stopping irregular migration. | Since Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022, Finland has rapidly changed its positioning. It joined Nato at record speed and later made the drastic decision to indefinitely close its entire border with Russia, accusing Moscow of directing asylum seekers to Finland in a “hybrid operation”. It is now building sections of barrier fence along 120 miles of the border, aimed chiefly at stopping irregular migration. |
The Finnish defence forces have said they are closely watching Moscow’s manoeuvring amid reports that Russia has expanded its military bases near the Nato frontier. About 120 miles east of Tohmajärvi, where the Guardian was among the first to visit North Karelia’s new barrier fence, Moscow has established a new 44th army corps to be headquartered in the city of Petrozavodsk. | The Finnish defence forces have said they are closely watching Moscow’s manoeuvring amid reports that Russia has expanded its military bases near the Nato frontier. About 120 miles east of Tohmajärvi, where the Guardian was among the first to visit North Karelia’s new barrier fence, Moscow has established a new 44th army corps to be headquartered in the city of Petrozavodsk. |
In June, the border force arrested a man crossing illegally into North Karelia whom Finnish media have since reported was a Russian Wagner defector. The border guard has not confirmed or denied that person’s alleged connections to the mercenary group. It has separately said it believes it has a person in one of its reception centres “with Wagner connections”. | In June, the border force arrested a man crossing illegally into North Karelia whom Finnish media have since reported was a Russian Wagner defector. The border guard has not confirmed or denied that person’s alleged connections to the mercenary group. It has separately said it believes it has a person in one of its reception centres “with Wagner connections”. |
Matti Pitkäniitty, the commander of the North Karelia border guard district, believes illegal border crossings involving Russian defectors are likely to become a growing problem. Pointing to a gap in the vegetation where an old Finnish country lane passed through before the border was redrawn in 1940 after the Russo-Finnish war, resulting in Helsinki ceding part of Karelia, Pitkäniitty said most civilians trying to cross illegally preferred to stick to roads, limiting the number of potential routes. | Matti Pitkäniitty, the commander of the North Karelia border guard district, believes illegal border crossings involving Russian defectors are likely to become a growing problem. Pointing to a gap in the vegetation where an old Finnish country lane passed through before the border was redrawn in 1940 after the Russo-Finnish war, resulting in Helsinki ceding part of Karelia, Pitkäniitty said most civilians trying to cross illegally preferred to stick to roads, limiting the number of potential routes. |
“People are afraid of those thick forests here,” he said. But this would not be an issue for a Russian military professional trying to flee the war in Ukraine. “Now, one of the risks we are facing are the military-trained personnel fleeing the war. They of course know how to navigate through the woods and how to survive there if they need to stay out of sight for a couple of days.” | “People are afraid of those thick forests here,” he said. But this would not be an issue for a Russian military professional trying to flee the war in Ukraine. “Now, one of the risks we are facing are the military-trained personnel fleeing the war. They of course know how to navigate through the woods and how to survive there if they need to stay out of sight for a couple of days.” |
While it is known that people with military training have fled to the west, it is impossible to know exactly how many may have done so via the Finnish border. | While it is known that people with military training have fled to the west, it is impossible to know exactly how many may have done so via the Finnish border. |
“This is not like the Berlin Wall where you have a really good perimeter. There are many more barriers here,” Pitkäniitty said. In addition to the restricted border zone, the border guard relies on technology such as sensors and drones, the natural deterrent of the terrain and the watchful eyes of locals. “So my basic assumption as a professional is that we don’t have a flawless system, there is a possibility that somebody has crossed it illegally, but not in large numbers.” | “This is not like the Berlin Wall where you have a really good perimeter. There are many more barriers here,” Pitkäniitty said. In addition to the restricted border zone, the border guard relies on technology such as sensors and drones, the natural deterrent of the terrain and the watchful eyes of locals. “So my basic assumption as a professional is that we don’t have a flawless system, there is a possibility that somebody has crossed it illegally, but not in large numbers.” |
The prospect of Russian men at the border coming from Ukraine, some of whom may have committed war crimes, was a “big threat” for Finland, Pitkäniitty said, and presented Finnish society – and European border authorities as a whole – with a difficult question. “How do we work with Russian males who have been in the war?” | The prospect of Russian men at the border coming from Ukraine, some of whom may have committed war crimes, was a “big threat” for Finland, Pitkäniitty said, and presented Finnish society – and European border authorities as a whole – with a difficult question. “How do we work with Russian males who have been in the war?” |
Guards in training | Guards in training |
North Karelia’s only road border crossing, Niirala, is now empty but there are still hints of different times, when the road was full of cars with Russian numberplates and North Karelia was a popular holiday destination. Road signs in Russian warn drivers to keep a safe distance from cars ahead. About once a week the crossing still gets a train from Russia carrying non-sanctioned essential goods such as fertiliser. | North Karelia’s only road border crossing, Niirala, is now empty but there are still hints of different times, when the road was full of cars with Russian numberplates and North Karelia was a popular holiday destination. Road signs in Russian warn drivers to keep a safe distance from cars ahead. About once a week the crossing still gets a train from Russia carrying non-sanctioned essential goods such as fertiliser. |
Because of its geography, Finland has long been prepared for war with Russia. It is enshrined in the country’s constitution that every Finnish citizen is obliged to participate in national defence. All men aged 18 to 60 can be called upon for military service. Women are permitted to apply on a voluntary basis. | Because of its geography, Finland has long been prepared for war with Russia. It is enshrined in the country’s constitution that every Finnish citizen is obliged to participate in national defence. All men aged 18 to 60 can be called upon for military service. Women are permitted to apply on a voluntary basis. |
Conscripts are called up in the year they turn 18 and, depending on their wishes and their fitness, training can last from 165 days to almost a year. | Conscripts are called up in the year they turn 18 and, depending on their wishes and their fitness, training can last from 165 days to almost a year. |
In the forest near Joensuu, a city of 77,000 people originally established by Tsar Nicholas I of Russia in 1848, the North Karelia border guard is training its latest batch of conscripts, who arrived this summer. After several days living in low-lying tents and learning survival skills, the group, dressed in camouflage with painted faces, are practising moving through the forest in formation, shooting blanks through the trees. | In the forest near Joensuu, a city of 77,000 people originally established by Tsar Nicholas I of Russia in 1848, the North Karelia border guard is training its latest batch of conscripts, who arrived this summer. After several days living in low-lying tents and learning survival skills, the group, dressed in camouflage with painted faces, are practising moving through the forest in formation, shooting blanks through the trees. |
The vast majority of the group are male, but Emma, 19, has put herself forward to do the training. “I think it is important to support your own country,” she said. “I don’t know if I want to do something like this as a career, but it’s a good opportunity for women. I think everyone should join.” | The vast majority of the group are male, but Emma, 19, has put herself forward to do the training. “I think it is important to support your own country,” she said. “I don’t know if I want to do something like this as a career, but it’s a good opportunity for women. I think everyone should join.” |
Despite North Karelia’s position on one of the highest-stakes geopolitical faultlines, cross-border interrelations continue to some extent. The North Karelian border guards cooperate with their Russian colleagues, who are under the jurisdiction of the Russian Federal Security Service (FSB), on practical issues such as trees falling on the border and forest fires, but not to the extent they did before the invasion of Ukraine. | Despite North Karelia’s position on one of the highest-stakes geopolitical faultlines, cross-border interrelations continue to some extent. The North Karelian border guards cooperate with their Russian colleagues, who are under the jurisdiction of the Russian Federal Security Service (FSB), on practical issues such as trees falling on the border and forest fires, but not to the extent they did before the invasion of Ukraine. |
Pitkäniitty used to have 10 meetings a year with his Russian counterpart, communicating via an interpreter; now he has four. Finland’s Nato membership has significantly changed the dynamic. “For Russians, Nato has been historically next to Satan, if not Satan itself. So now we are part of that and it changes how they view the Finns,” Pitkäniitty said. | Pitkäniitty used to have 10 meetings a year with his Russian counterpart, communicating via an interpreter; now he has four. Finland’s Nato membership has significantly changed the dynamic. “For Russians, Nato has been historically next to Satan, if not Satan itself. So now we are part of that and it changes how they view the Finns,” Pitkäniitty said. |
Before the war in Ukraine, he used to joke that “safe” topics to talk about with the Russians included hunting, fishing, berries and mushrooms and sport. Now, with Russia excluded from sporting competitions, one of those has been struck from the list. But, he added, “you can still talk about fishing, hunting and mushrooms”. | Before the war in Ukraine, he used to joke that “safe” topics to talk about with the Russians included hunting, fishing, berries and mushrooms and sport. Now, with Russia excluded from sporting competitions, one of those has been struck from the list. But, he added, “you can still talk about fishing, hunting and mushrooms”. |