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| Edward Enninful: Fashion risks going backwards on diversity, says ex-Vogue boss | Edward Enninful: Fashion risks going backwards on diversity, says ex-Vogue boss |
| (about 4 hours later) | |
| Edward Enninful says the fashion industry "has to figure out where we stand and what we stand for" | Edward Enninful says the fashion industry "has to figure out where we stand and what we stand for" |
| Edward Enninful, the former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, has said "anti-woke" and anti-diversity rhetoric is having "a moment", and that being super-thin and European are often seen as the beauty norm again in the world of fashion. | Edward Enninful, the former editor-in-chief of British Vogue, has said "anti-woke" and anti-diversity rhetoric is having "a moment", and that being super-thin and European are often seen as the beauty norm again in the world of fashion. |
| The Ghanaian-born British editor and stylist ended his tenure at British Vogue in 2023, and last week launched what he calls an "inclusive" new media platform, EE72. | The Ghanaian-born British editor and stylist ended his tenure at British Vogue in 2023, and last week launched what he calls an "inclusive" new media platform, EE72. |
| Speaking to BBC Radio 4 podcast Radical with Amol Rajan for London Fashion Week, Enninful suggested the industry risked going back to how it was before years of more inclusive modelling. | Speaking to BBC Radio 4 podcast Radical with Amol Rajan for London Fashion Week, Enninful suggested the industry risked going back to how it was before years of more inclusive modelling. |
| "I think we're potentially going back to an industry that's just sort of, 'one type is the norm, being European is the norm, being super-thin is the norm'," he said. | "I think we're potentially going back to an industry that's just sort of, 'one type is the norm, being European is the norm, being super-thin is the norm'," he said. |
| A string of high street fashion adverts that have been banned because they featured models who looked "unhealthily thin" has led industry experts to warn of a return to the super skinny trend, BBC News recently reported. | A string of high street fashion adverts that have been banned because they featured models who looked "unhealthily thin" has led industry experts to warn of a return to the super skinny trend, BBC News recently reported. |
| Enninful described fashion as an "industry in flux at the moment". He said he's therefore "excited" to be returning at what feels like "the perfect time" because "there's a lot of work to be done". | Enninful described fashion as an "industry in flux at the moment". He said he's therefore "excited" to be returning at what feels like "the perfect time" because "there's a lot of work to be done". |
| The first quarterly print edition of his new venture - titled 72 after the year he was born - focuses on the beauty of women over 50. It features Hollywood movie star and "real human being" Julia Roberts, 57, on its cover. | The first quarterly print edition of his new venture - titled 72 after the year he was born - focuses on the beauty of women over 50. It features Hollywood movie star and "real human being" Julia Roberts, 57, on its cover. |
| Enninful came to London as an aslyum seeker, and after being appointed fashion director of the British fashion magazine i-D at the age of 18, he went on to become the first black editor-in-chief of British Vogue, where he championed diversity in order to "represent the world we live in today." | Enninful came to London as an aslyum seeker, and after being appointed fashion director of the British fashion magazine i-D at the age of 18, he went on to become the first black editor-in-chief of British Vogue, where he championed diversity in order to "represent the world we live in today." |
| Fashion 'has to figure out what we stand for' | Fashion 'has to figure out what we stand for' |
| Asked by Rajan if he thought a cultural "anti-woke moment" was now taking place, he agreed. | Asked by Rajan if he thought a cultural "anti-woke moment" was now taking place, he agreed. |
| "I think it's definitely a cultural moment," he replied. "Woke is a dirty word. | "I think it's definitely a cultural moment," he replied. "Woke is a dirty word. |
| "We see what's happening in the world politically. So anything that's not deemed as normal or the norm is seen as wrong." | "We see what's happening in the world politically. So anything that's not deemed as normal or the norm is seen as wrong." |
| The Oxford English Dictionary (OED) defines "woke" as meaning "well-informed" or "up-to-date" as well as being "alert to racial or social discrimination and injustice". | The Oxford English Dictionary (OED) defines "woke" as meaning "well-informed" or "up-to-date" as well as being "alert to racial or social discrimination and injustice". |
| It has been seen as a badge of honour by some on the left, but more often as an insult by those on the right. | It has been seen as a badge of honour by some on the left, but more often as an insult by those on the right. |
| The fashionista continued: "It's not woke to think that someone curvy is beautiful, it's not woke to think someone from another country is beautiful." | The fashionista continued: "It's not woke to think that someone curvy is beautiful, it's not woke to think someone from another country is beautiful." |
| He believes the fashion industry "has to figure out where we stand and what we stand for". | He believes the fashion industry "has to figure out where we stand and what we stand for". |
| Edward Enninful and Anna Wintour pictured at 2024's UK premiere of Disney+ documentary series, In Vogue: The 1990s | Edward Enninful and Anna Wintour pictured at 2024's UK premiere of Disney+ documentary series, In Vogue: The 1990s |
| In the same interview, Enninful spoke about his departure from Vogue and his relationship with Dame Anna Wintour, who is stepping back as editor-in-chief of American Vogue after 37 years. | In the same interview, Enninful spoke about his departure from Vogue and his relationship with Dame Anna Wintour, who is stepping back as editor-in-chief of American Vogue after 37 years. |
| He laughed at widespread reports the two had fallen out and that he had been forced out. | He laughed at widespread reports the two had fallen out and that he had been forced out. |
| "When I took the job, I gave myself five years and I did six," he explained, adding that she had asked him to give them a year's notice so they could find his replacement, who turned out to be Chioma Nnadi. | "When I took the job, I gave myself five years and I did six," he explained, adding that she had asked him to give them a year's notice so they could find his replacement, who turned out to be Chioma Nnadi. |
| "So it was my decision to leave. But I just loved all these stories like, oh my God, Anna and I were fighting!" | "So it was my decision to leave. But I just loved all these stories like, oh my God, Anna and I were fighting!" |
| He said she was "actually very supportive" because she could see he was leaving "a secure place" like Vogue to go it alone. | He said she was "actually very supportive" because she could see he was leaving "a secure place" like Vogue to go it alone. |
| "Anna and I, we text each other all the time. You're going to see us together." | "Anna and I, we text each other all the time. You're going to see us together." |
| Enninful also gave his views on the controversial recent Sydney Sweeney jeans advert. | Enninful also gave his views on the controversial recent Sydney Sweeney jeans advert. |
| US fashion retailer American Eagle had the Euphoria and White Lotus actress resplendent in its denim alongside the words: "Sydney Sweeney has great jeans." | |
| Some people took the gene pun to mean the ad was implying a racially superior ideal of beauty. Others, however, backed Sweeney and described the outrage as overblown. | Some people took the gene pun to mean the ad was implying a racially superior ideal of beauty. Others, however, backed Sweeney and described the outrage as overblown. |
| "I thought people really read into it probably deeper than I would have," said Enninful, noting how Sweeney is currently "having a great moment" in her career. | "I thought people really read into it probably deeper than I would have," said Enninful, noting how Sweeney is currently "having a great moment" in her career. |
| "But then also on the other hand, I guess if you have a blonde woman sitting there talking about her jeans, it will trigger some people. | "But then also on the other hand, I guess if you have a blonde woman sitting there talking about her jeans, it will trigger some people. |
| "So I feel like the population is quite divided really, isn't it?" | "So I feel like the population is quite divided really, isn't it?" |
| All episodes of Radical with Amol Rajan are available to listen to on BBC Sounds. | All episodes of Radical with Amol Rajan are available to listen to on BBC Sounds. |
| BBC News used AI to help write the summary at the top of this article. It was edited by BBC journalists. Find out more. |