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Do collagen supplements work to reduce signs of skin ageing? | Do collagen supplements work to reduce signs of skin ageing? |
(about 11 hours later) | |
When it comes to collagen - how do you take yours? | When it comes to collagen - how do you take yours? |
There are parties where people even drink shots of the anti-ageing supplement, often followed by a hefty tequila - though the latter is probably not recommended in the quest for youthful, peachy skin. | There are parties where people even drink shots of the anti-ageing supplement, often followed by a hefty tequila - though the latter is probably not recommended in the quest for youthful, peachy skin. |
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body, and forms the scaffolding that helps maintain the structural integrity of our skin and musculoskeletal system. | Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body, and forms the scaffolding that helps maintain the structural integrity of our skin and musculoskeletal system. |
In short, collagen helps to keep our skin plump, our joints and bones strong, and our hair and nails healthy. | In short, collagen helps to keep our skin plump, our joints and bones strong, and our hair and nails healthy. |
It's become so treasured that some dermatologists recommend "banking" it - investing in our collagen supply early so we have surplus when the inevitable happens. | It's become so treasured that some dermatologists recommend "banking" it - investing in our collagen supply early so we have surplus when the inevitable happens. |
Yes. The inevitable. Ageing. Sigh. | Yes. The inevitable. Ageing. Sigh. |
Our collagen supply naturally starts to decrease, on average around 1% a year, as we reach our mid to late 20s. | Our collagen supply naturally starts to decrease, on average around 1% a year, as we reach our mid to late 20s. |
The speed of its decline depends on factors like our exposure to the sun, diet, and stress levels. | The speed of its decline depends on factors like our exposure to the sun, diet, and stress levels. |
But is there credible science to say supplements can replenish our dwindling supply? And if so, what's the best way of getting it into our bodies? | But is there credible science to say supplements can replenish our dwindling supply? And if so, what's the best way of getting it into our bodies? |
As a sleep deprived mother, Kimberlie says collagen makes a difference to her skin | As a sleep deprived mother, Kimberlie says collagen makes a difference to her skin |
Kimberlie Smith started taking collagen about six months ago. The 33-year-old began using it after a "traumatic year" in 2024. Her son was born prematurely, and as a result of stress, the mother-of-three says her skin took a "huge hit". | Kimberlie Smith started taking collagen about six months ago. The 33-year-old began using it after a "traumatic year" in 2024. Her son was born prematurely, and as a result of stress, the mother-of-three says her skin took a "huge hit". |
She uses marine collagen, the type derived from fish, in a tropical-flavoured gel she drinks every day. | She uses marine collagen, the type derived from fish, in a tropical-flavoured gel she drinks every day. |
"My skin definitely seems to be brighter and clearer, plus my hair has never looked better since I started taking it," Kimberlie says. "As a sleep deprived mother, it's definitely made a difference." | "My skin definitely seems to be brighter and clearer, plus my hair has never looked better since I started taking it," Kimberlie says. "As a sleep deprived mother, it's definitely made a difference." |
Emma Wedgeworth, a consultant dermatologist based on London's Harley Street, says while there is some research to suggest taking collagen orally has an impact, she remains sceptical. | Emma Wedgeworth, a consultant dermatologist based on London's Harley Street, says while there is some research to suggest taking collagen orally has an impact, she remains sceptical. |
She says the idea that collagen can make its journey through our body - not the easiest of quests - and land exactly where we need it to be is probably wishful thinking. | She says the idea that collagen can make its journey through our body - not the easiest of quests - and land exactly where we need it to be is probably wishful thinking. |
For a start, it has to get through the gut without being completely broken down. Collagen is a large molecule so companies have now started to break it up into smaller pieces - collagen peptides - otherwise known as hydrolysed collagen. | For a start, it has to get through the gut without being completely broken down. Collagen is a large molecule so companies have now started to break it up into smaller pieces - collagen peptides - otherwise known as hydrolysed collagen. |
Even though this collagen - now in its smaller form - has a better chance of making its way through the intestinal wall and into the bloodstream, it still has a long way to go. | Even though this collagen - now in its smaller form - has a better chance of making its way through the intestinal wall and into the bloodstream, it still has a long way to go. |
It has to reach the skin to have an impact, and it could just as easily slip off to support other organs in the body. It's a valuable resource. | It has to reach the skin to have an impact, and it could just as easily slip off to support other organs in the body. It's a valuable resource. |
"There is little reliable evidence on this, but there is a theory that because our skin is the organ with the 'fastest turnover' of cells, it might be more likely to use these collagen peptides above other organs." | "There is little reliable evidence on this, but there is a theory that because our skin is the organ with the 'fastest turnover' of cells, it might be more likely to use these collagen peptides above other organs." |
And that's when you might get an increase in collagen being made in the skin cells. | And that's when you might get an increase in collagen being made in the skin cells. |
'You can't risk stopping' | 'You can't risk stopping' |
That all seems very complicated - and uncertain. It may leave you asking: what about using collagen creams? They're going directly onto the skin, so won't they stand more chance of getting where they need to be? | That all seems very complicated - and uncertain. It may leave you asking: what about using collagen creams? They're going directly onto the skin, so won't they stand more chance of getting where they need to be? |
"No," is Ms Wedgworth's simple answer. "The collagen will just sit on the outer layer of your skin, it won't reach the dermis - which is the middle layer." | "No," is Ms Wedgworth's simple answer. "The collagen will just sit on the outer layer of your skin, it won't reach the dermis - which is the middle layer." |
There are three different types of collagen supplements: marine (from fish), bovine (from cows), and vegan. Of the three, the dermatologist recommends marine if you are taking collagen orally. | There are three different types of collagen supplements: marine (from fish), bovine (from cows), and vegan. Of the three, the dermatologist recommends marine if you are taking collagen orally. |
This is because it contains more type 1 collagen - the most common of the five types and the one that gives structure to our skin cells, as well as playing a crucial role in the health of our bones, tendons and connective tissues. | This is because it contains more type 1 collagen - the most common of the five types and the one that gives structure to our skin cells, as well as playing a crucial role in the health of our bones, tendons and connective tissues. |
Vegan collagen is the least effective, says Ms Wedgeworth. Collagen is an animal-derived protein, so these products are not actually made of collagen, and instead contain a range of amino acids and vitamins. | Vegan collagen is the least effective, says Ms Wedgeworth. Collagen is an animal-derived protein, so these products are not actually made of collagen, and instead contain a range of amino acids and vitamins. |
Ali Watson, a keen weightlifter, originally started to use collagen supplements to help protect her joints | Ali Watson, a keen weightlifter, originally started to use collagen supplements to help protect her joints |
"I'm trapped," Ali Watson tells me as she points to packs of bovine collagen powder in her kitchen. "Yes, this one is for me and well, this one is for Tommy." | "I'm trapped," Ali Watson tells me as she points to packs of bovine collagen powder in her kitchen. "Yes, this one is for me and well, this one is for Tommy." |
I look at the slender brown hound next me, grey whiskers poking out round his nose. He lifts an eyebrow in acknowledgement. | I look at the slender brown hound next me, grey whiskers poking out round his nose. He lifts an eyebrow in acknowledgement. |
Ali, a neuroanaesthetist who, by her own admission, "knows a lot about dosing", feels like now she's started taking collagen, she can't stop - and nor can she stop giving it to her dog. | Ali, a neuroanaesthetist who, by her own admission, "knows a lot about dosing", feels like now she's started taking collagen, she can't stop - and nor can she stop giving it to her dog. |
"I started taking it as a powder a couple of years ago. At first, it wasn't about my appearance, it was about my joints, I wanted to protect them because I do a lot of weight-lifting." | "I started taking it as a powder a couple of years ago. At first, it wasn't about my appearance, it was about my joints, I wanted to protect them because I do a lot of weight-lifting." |
Ali's not sure that she's noticed any difference with her joints, but she has noticed a change elsewhere. | Ali's not sure that she's noticed any difference with her joints, but she has noticed a change elsewhere. |
"My skin feels like it glows more, my hair feels thicker and my nails feel stronger." | "My skin feels like it glows more, my hair feels thicker and my nails feel stronger." |
I glance down at Tommy, who seems more interested in his dog bowl than any powdered supplements. | I glance down at Tommy, who seems more interested in his dog bowl than any powdered supplements. |
"I know, it seems mad," Ali says, "but Tommy seemed a bit slower, a bit less enthusiastic just before summer, so I thought I would try him on dog collagen. | "I know, it seems mad," Ali says, "but Tommy seemed a bit slower, a bit less enthusiastic just before summer, so I thought I would try him on dog collagen. |
"I wanted to see if it could help with his joints - he's getting old now. And he is a bit brighter, but that might just be because the weather's got colder again and he's less hot and lethargic." | "I wanted to see if it could help with his joints - he's getting old now. And he is a bit brighter, but that might just be because the weather's got colder again and he's less hot and lethargic." |
Ali's not completely convinced the supplement is making a difference, and it's costing her £60 a month to ensure she and Tommy get their daily dose. | Ali's not completely convinced the supplement is making a difference, and it's costing her £60 a month to ensure she and Tommy get their daily dose. |
Tommy started on collagen a few months ago to help his joints | Tommy started on collagen a few months ago to help his joints |
But she says she now can't stop. "That's the thing with these supplements," the 46-year-old says, "life does have its ups and downs. You might take them when you're on a down, then things pick up again - and it might have very little to do with the supplements. | |
"But by that stage, you can't risk stopping." | "But by that stage, you can't risk stopping." |
Professor Faisal Ali, a consultant dermatologist at Mid Cheshire NHS Trust, says one of the issues consumers and clinicians face is the amount of conflicting information and conflicting interests in supplement research. | Professor Faisal Ali, a consultant dermatologist at Mid Cheshire NHS Trust, says one of the issues consumers and clinicians face is the amount of conflicting information and conflicting interests in supplement research. |
A recent, relatively small, study compared research funded by the wellness industry to studies that did not have the same conflict of interest. | A recent, relatively small, study compared research funded by the wellness industry to studies that did not have the same conflict of interest. |
While industry-funded studies suggested collagen supplements significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles, those that did not receive funding from pharmaceutical companies revealed no effect on skin. | While industry-funded studies suggested collagen supplements significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles, those that did not receive funding from pharmaceutical companies revealed no effect on skin. |
Prof Ali says industry-funded studies are not "inherently bad", it's just such a varied picture. But he says there is a lack of robust evidence to suggest oral and topical collagen have any substantial effect. | Prof Ali says industry-funded studies are not "inherently bad", it's just such a varied picture. But he says there is a lack of robust evidence to suggest oral and topical collagen have any substantial effect. |
So if I could turn back time and start drinking and banking collagen in my 20s, would I have smoother, more youthful skin now, I ask him? Probably not, he says. It doesn't stay in the body for that long - we haven't got a collagen store cupboard that we can just dip into. | So if I could turn back time and start drinking and banking collagen in my 20s, would I have smoother, more youthful skin now, I ask him? Probably not, he says. It doesn't stay in the body for that long - we haven't got a collagen store cupboard that we can just dip into. |
Microneedling makes small wounds in the skin which may trigger collagen production | Microneedling makes small wounds in the skin which may trigger collagen production |
However, Prof Ali believes we can potentially boost collagen output and maintain elasticity in our skin by using special techniques such as laser collagen stimulation and microneedling. | However, Prof Ali believes we can potentially boost collagen output and maintain elasticity in our skin by using special techniques such as laser collagen stimulation and microneedling. |
This means using a number of tiny, specialist needles or a laser to make small wounds to our skin, which then encourage a repair process, triggering new collagen formation. | This means using a number of tiny, specialist needles or a laser to make small wounds to our skin, which then encourage a repair process, triggering new collagen formation. |
But that's not cheap. You could be paying up to £300 for one session. Is there a less costly alternative? | But that's not cheap. You could be paying up to £300 for one session. Is there a less costly alternative? |
"The best thing you can do for your skin," Prof Ali says, "is using decent sunblock. We know the sun has a huge impact on ageing our skin. | "The best thing you can do for your skin," Prof Ali says, "is using decent sunblock. We know the sun has a huge impact on ageing our skin. |
"Sun cream, healthy diet, and if you smoke, stop. | "Sun cream, healthy diet, and if you smoke, stop. |
"These will have a far greater impact than collagen supplements." | "These will have a far greater impact than collagen supplements." |
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