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Life on one of the world's most remote islands Life on one of the world's most remote islands
(10 minutes later)
The British government has postponed plans to build an airport on the tiny south Atlantic island of St Helena. What is it like living on one of the most isolated settlements on the planet? The British government has postponed plans to build an airport on the tiny south Atlantic island of St Helena. So what is it like living on one of the most remote settlements on the planet?
The RMS St Helena is the only way anything - people or cargo - gets to St Helena.The RMS St Helena is the only way anything - people or cargo - gets to St Helena.
It is the last remaining Royal Mail ship in the world and as it slowly ploughs its way through the south Atlantic, sailing between Cape Town, Ascension Island and St Helena, it would be tempting to say it represents the island's lifeline, only for St Helenians it is even more than that.It is the last remaining Royal Mail ship in the world and as it slowly ploughs its way through the south Atlantic, sailing between Cape Town, Ascension Island and St Helena, it would be tempting to say it represents the island's lifeline, only for St Helenians it is even more than that.
Geography: In the Atlantic, midway between South America and AfricaPopulation: 7,637 Terrain: Rugged and volcanicHistory: Discovered by the Portuguese in 1502, uninhabited, then British East India Company colonised it in 1650s, and became Crown Colony in 1834Famous resident: Napoleon Bonaparte exiled there in 1815, until his death in 1821Geography: In the Atlantic, midway between South America and AfricaPopulation: 7,637 Terrain: Rugged and volcanicHistory: Discovered by the Portuguese in 1502, uninhabited, then British East India Company colonised it in 1650s, and became Crown Colony in 1834Famous resident: Napoleon Bonaparte exiled there in 1815, until his death in 1821
Among the passengers, Robert Newman is on the way to attend the funeral of his father, the former chief of police John Newman, who recently passed away on St Helena.Among the passengers, Robert Newman is on the way to attend the funeral of his father, the former chief of police John Newman, who recently passed away on St Helena.
"My dad died much quicker than we expected," he says. "I came to see him last month and I've been very lucky that the transport has worked out so that I can be here for the funeral."My dad died much quicker than we expected," he says. "I came to see him last month and I've been very lucky that the transport has worked out so that I can be here for the funeral.
"I've really only managed it at all because of my contacts at the MoD.""I've really only managed it at all because of my contacts at the MoD."
Mr Newman left the island to join the British army and now lives in Hereford and serves with the Royal Signals.Mr Newman left the island to join the British army and now lives in Hereford and serves with the Royal Signals.
He has taken a long-delayed RAF flight from Brize Norton to Ascension Island, meeting up with RMS St Helena for a three-day sail to the island. Fortunately the boat waited for the late-running plane.He has taken a long-delayed RAF flight from Brize Norton to Ascension Island, meeting up with RMS St Helena for a three-day sail to the island. Fortunately the boat waited for the late-running plane.
It's rare for the journey to be even this easy. Often there can be weeks between sailings, and when the ship is being serviced, none at all.It's rare for the journey to be even this easy. Often there can be weeks between sailings, and when the ship is being serviced, none at all.
Ford EscortsFord Escorts
The return flight costs more than £1,000 and the return boat trip from Ascension to St Helena about £1,600.The return flight costs more than £1,000 and the return boat trip from Ascension to St Helena about £1,600.
Perhaps because the island is so hard - and costly - to get to, St Helena is often said to have been frozen in time, a slice of yesteryear Britain, and arriving on the island, it's easy to see why.Perhaps because the island is so hard - and costly - to get to, St Helena is often said to have been frozen in time, a slice of yesteryear Britain, and arriving on the island, it's easy to see why.
Steep rocky slopes rise almost from the sea, but nestled in a gully in the otherwise rocky terrain lies sleepy Jamestown.Steep rocky slopes rise almost from the sea, but nestled in a gully in the otherwise rocky terrain lies sleepy Jamestown.
Part incongruously-hot Yorkshire village, part colonial outpost, ancient Ford Escorts pootle up and down its short High Street while people - seemingly for hours at a time - park themselves on benches to chat and look on.Part incongruously-hot Yorkshire village, part colonial outpost, ancient Ford Escorts pootle up and down its short High Street while people - seemingly for hours at a time - park themselves on benches to chat and look on.
Old cars are a common sightOld cars are a common sight
There are no chain stores here and the handful of local shops knock off for the day at 4pm. Wednesday is a half-day and few businesses open at all at the weekend.There are no chain stores here and the handful of local shops knock off for the day at 4pm. Wednesday is a half-day and few businesses open at all at the weekend.
Inside the Star supermarket, despite the ship's recent arrival, there are still many empty shelves. Only carrots, marrows, cucumbers and potatoes are for sale in the vegetable section.Inside the Star supermarket, despite the ship's recent arrival, there are still many empty shelves. Only carrots, marrows, cucumbers and potatoes are for sale in the vegetable section.
"This actually isn't too bad," says shopper Bronwen Yon. "Some days the whole place is empty. In two weeks, there'll be nothing left again.""This actually isn't too bad," says shopper Bronwen Yon. "Some days the whole place is empty. In two weeks, there'll be nothing left again."
She explains the kind of strategy you need on an island served by just one boat.She explains the kind of strategy you need on an island served by just one boat.
"You have to plan when you're going to buy things. If the ship comes in from Cape Town, you'll know it will have things like butter, cheese and sugar."You have to plan when you're going to buy things. If the ship comes in from Cape Town, you'll know it will have things like butter, cheese and sugar.
Napoleon spent his final years on the island, at Longwood HouseNapoleon spent his final years on the island, at Longwood House
"It's probably hard to get your head around if you're not from here but even simple things like this you need to stock up on when you can."It's probably hard to get your head around if you're not from here but even simple things like this you need to stock up on when you can.
"You'll know exactly how long after the ship arrives the goods will appear on the shelf and you'll buy a month's worth. You learn these things.""You'll know exactly how long after the ship arrives the goods will appear on the shelf and you'll buy a month's worth. You learn these things."
But not everyone is prepared to put up with such a life. Once St Helena used to be a service station on the oceanic motorway, receiving a thousand ships a year.But not everyone is prepared to put up with such a life. Once St Helena used to be a service station on the oceanic motorway, receiving a thousand ships a year.
But since the aviation age arrived and with such poor modern communication links, the economy has been slowly throttled. There is a saying that every time the RMS leaves, it takes two families with it.But since the aviation age arrived and with such poor modern communication links, the economy has been slowly throttled. There is a saying that every time the RMS leaves, it takes two families with it.
'Expensive''Expensive'
The average salary on the island is just £70 a week and one in four so-called Saints have moved away in the last 10 years to seek better-paid employment overseas.The average salary on the island is just £70 a week and one in four so-called Saints have moved away in the last 10 years to seek better-paid employment overseas.
Some sights are familiarly BritishSome sights are familiarly British
And when they do it is the older members of the older generation - like Melvina Caeser - who are left holding the baby.And when they do it is the older members of the older generation - like Melvina Caeser - who are left holding the baby.
She is raising four of her grandchildren while their parents are away working. Such an informal foster arrangement is common on the island. And when these children grow up they too will almost certainly leave.She is raising four of her grandchildren while their parents are away working. Such an informal foster arrangement is common on the island. And when these children grow up they too will almost certainly leave.
"It's difficult but there's no choice," she says. "Food is expensive, clothes are expensive. That's why people have to go away. It's hard for the children as they don't have their mummy here but I still love them like my own.""It's difficult but there's no choice," she says. "Food is expensive, clothes are expensive. That's why people have to go away. It's hard for the children as they don't have their mummy here but I still love them like my own."
When the airport was originally promised it was with the idea of stemming this human tide.When the airport was originally promised it was with the idea of stemming this human tide.
St Helena currently costs the UK about £20m each year to administer and while the airport would cost £300m, it was hoped that it would enable the island to become sustainable.St Helena currently costs the UK about £20m each year to administer and while the airport would cost £300m, it was hoped that it would enable the island to become sustainable.
People say hello to each other and always try to help one another Annabel PlatoPeople say hello to each other and always try to help one another Annabel Plato
There was some resistance to the plan, from those who thought an influx of people would risk the island's close-knit atmosphere.There was some resistance to the plan, from those who thought an influx of people would risk the island's close-knit atmosphere.
But in December, the UK government announced it was to postpone a decision for the second time, a move that was greeted with some anger.But in December, the UK government announced it was to postpone a decision for the second time, a move that was greeted with some anger.
"Some people are stuck in their ways - they don't like change. They're afraid an airport might bring terrorists to the island or something," says Annabel Plato, a hotel worker."Some people are stuck in their ways - they don't like change. They're afraid an airport might bring terrorists to the island or something," says Annabel Plato, a hotel worker.
Annabel herself moved away to the UK, working as a housekeeper at Althorpe House, but airport or no airport she's glad she came back.Annabel herself moved away to the UK, working as a housekeeper at Althorpe House, but airport or no airport she's glad she came back.
"It's like a village. People say hello to each other and always try to help one another," she says. "If there is a funeral or a wedding for instance and there's a shortage of flowers, people will cut them from their gardens to help out. It's really nice and it's something you appreciate much more after you've been away.""It's like a village. People say hello to each other and always try to help one another," she says. "If there is a funeral or a wedding for instance and there's a shortage of flowers, people will cut them from their gardens to help out. It's really nice and it's something you appreciate much more after you've been away."
No smoking banNo smoking ban
Despite the lack of links with the outside world, Annabel says she doesn't feel cut off, pointing out that there are landlines, television and the internet.Despite the lack of links with the outside world, Annabel says she doesn't feel cut off, pointing out that there are landlines, television and the internet.
Food supplies are sporadicFood supplies are sporadic
True, but the internet bandwidth for the entire island is less than that of many individual households in the UK, and costs £6 an hour, while locals say the phone lines - all with retro four-digit numbers - run out of capacity at times.True, but the internet bandwidth for the entire island is less than that of many individual households in the UK, and costs £6 an hour, while locals say the phone lines - all with retro four-digit numbers - run out of capacity at times.
In the Standard pub, the regulars puff away around the bar. There is no smoking ban here.In the Standard pub, the regulars puff away around the bar. There is no smoking ban here.
They agree that it's only in emergencies that St Helena's remoteness is really brought home.They agree that it's only in emergencies that St Helena's remoteness is really brought home.
"A friend of mine became seriously ill while the ship was back in the UK, " says Geoff Stevens. "By the time the ship got back and took him to Cape Town it was too late. He died on board.""A friend of mine became seriously ill while the ship was back in the UK, " says Geoff Stevens. "By the time the ship got back and took him to Cape Town it was too late. He died on board."
For visitors, like Mike and Lynda Vincent, the remoteness makes St Helena special.For visitors, like Mike and Lynda Vincent, the remoteness makes St Helena special.
RMS St Helena ships freights and passengersRMS St Helena ships freights and passengers
"You're completely incommunicado. It's one of the few places in the world where that's the case. It's definitely an attraction," says Mr Vincent."You're completely incommunicado. It's one of the few places in the world where that's the case. It's definitely an attraction," says Mr Vincent.
Attracting more tourists is the only plan for the island economy, but Jamie Peters of the National Trust sees a paradox here.Attracting more tourists is the only plan for the island economy, but Jamie Peters of the National Trust sees a paradox here.
"Remoteness is one of the major appeals. It's one of the things that made me want to come here. There aren't many places left in the world that can take you six days on a boat to get to."Remoteness is one of the major appeals. It's one of the things that made me want to come here. There aren't many places left in the world that can take you six days on a boat to get to.
"If people could fly here to the UK in seven or eight hours, it would definitely take away from the romance.""If people could fly here to the UK in seven or eight hours, it would definitely take away from the romance."


Add your comments on this story, using the form below.Add your comments on this story, using the form below.
While the romance of distance maybe appealing the need to bring access to the island should come first. Having lived and worked on Ascension Island for 12 months I have a base understanding of how difficult it is to purchase every day essentials such as fresh fruit and veg. I use to shop at Asda online and have a shipping company send my order out to me via the MOD ship, this meant shopping three months in advance. The people of St Helena are warm and friendly and I can understand that there maybe some that do not want the Island opened up by an airport however the obvious need to bring produce and goods to the Island is evident and the need for emergency services and hospitals even more evident. The British Government want to wake up and look after their own people as well as they do people of other nations.John Gilmore, BirkenheadWhile the romance of distance maybe appealing the need to bring access to the island should come first. Having lived and worked on Ascension Island for 12 months I have a base understanding of how difficult it is to purchase every day essentials such as fresh fruit and veg. I use to shop at Asda online and have a shipping company send my order out to me via the MOD ship, this meant shopping three months in advance. The people of St Helena are warm and friendly and I can understand that there maybe some that do not want the Island opened up by an airport however the obvious need to bring produce and goods to the Island is evident and the need for emergency services and hospitals even more evident. The British Government want to wake up and look after their own people as well as they do people of other nations.John Gilmore, Birkenhead
If you'd like to sample life on a remote island, but a lot nearer to home, try Foula, 14 miles west of the rest of the Shetlands. No shops, no law, the post office is somebody's porch . . . quite an experience. Main hazard very aggressive birds.Jenny McWilliam, LeicesterIf you'd like to sample life on a remote island, but a lot nearer to home, try Foula, 14 miles west of the rest of the Shetlands. No shops, no law, the post office is somebody's porch . . . quite an experience. Main hazard very aggressive birds.Jenny McWilliam, Leicester
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