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| Long walk to restore Mandela's office | Long walk to restore Mandela's office |
| (about 5 hours later) | |
| The Johannesburg building that once housed Nelson Mandela's law firm is now a derelict squat. The BBC's Andrew Harding finds that long-stalled plans to turn it into a centre for black lawyers say a lot about the pace of change in modern South Africa. | The Johannesburg building that once housed Nelson Mandela's law firm is now a derelict squat. The BBC's Andrew Harding finds that long-stalled plans to turn it into a centre for black lawyers say a lot about the pace of change in modern South Africa. |
| The building is now completely derelict | |
| George Bizos shuffles slowly across Fox Street, in the centre of Johannesburg. | George Bizos shuffles slowly across Fox Street, in the centre of Johannesburg. |
| A lunchtime crowd is clogging the entrance of a shabby-looking cafe. | A lunchtime crowd is clogging the entrance of a shabby-looking cafe. |
| Mr Bizos slips inside - unnoticed at first. But within seconds there are nods and smiles of recognition. | Mr Bizos slips inside - unnoticed at first. But within seconds there are nods and smiles of recognition. |
| The Chinese man behind the till is complaining about the criminals in the area. | The Chinese man behind the till is complaining about the criminals in the area. |
| "There's a derelict building on the next block. Chancellor House. It's full of criminals," he says sharply. | "There's a derelict building on the next block. Chancellor House. It's full of criminals," he says sharply. |
| Mr Bizos' crumpled, 82-year-old back straightens - his barrister's instincts alerted. | Mr Bizos' crumpled, 82-year-old back straightens - his barrister's instincts alerted. |
| "That house," he explains patiently, "is occupied by dozens of squatters who have no alternative accommodation. They should not be casually categorised as criminals." | "That house," he explains patiently, "is occupied by dozens of squatters who have no alternative accommodation. They should not be casually categorised as criminals." |
| It is a good 50 years now since Mr Bizos first bought lunch at this cafe. | It is a good 50 years now since Mr Bizos first bought lunch at this cafe. |
| He and his friend Nelson Mandela used to come at least once a week to grab a couple of pies and take them back to Mr Mandela's office around the corner. | He and his friend Nelson Mandela used to come at least once a week to grab a couple of pies and take them back to Mr Mandela's office around the corner. |
| As a white man, born in Greece, Mr Bizos could have eaten at the cafe. But in those days black people were not allowed to sit down here. | As a white man, born in Greece, Mr Bizos could have eaten at the cafe. But in those days black people were not allowed to sit down here. |
| On the way out today, two men in workmen's clothes stop Mr Bizos and ask if they can shake his hand. | On the way out today, two men in workmen's clothes stop Mr Bizos and ask if they can shake his hand. |
| Historic place | Historic place |
| One block down Fox Street, opposite the Magistrate's court, is the derelict, three-storey building the Chinese man was complaining about. | One block down Fox Street, opposite the Magistrate's court, is the derelict, three-storey building the Chinese man was complaining about. |
| The walls are blackened by fire. Half a dozen young men are standing outside it. There is a strong smell of marijuana and rubbish. | The walls are blackened by fire. Half a dozen young men are standing outside it. There is a strong smell of marijuana and rubbish. |
| If we brought Mr Mandela here now, it would break his heart. George Bizos | If we brought Mr Mandela here now, it would break his heart. George Bizos |
| "A lot of memories," says Mr Bizos, smiling at the crowd then slowly climbing the pitch-black stairwell of Chancellor House, up to the water-logged landing on the first floor. | "A lot of memories," says Mr Bizos, smiling at the crowd then slowly climbing the pitch-black stairwell of Chancellor House, up to the water-logged landing on the first floor. |
| At the far end, a makeshift door opens into what was once Mr Mandela's office - the very first black law firm in South Africa and a place that used to be besieged by clients. | At the far end, a makeshift door opens into what was once Mr Mandela's office - the very first black law firm in South Africa and a place that used to be besieged by clients. |
| Today it is occupied by a 38-year-old unemployed electrician, Dick Macomary, and his growing family. | Today it is occupied by a 38-year-old unemployed electrician, Dick Macomary, and his growing family. |
| There is a mattress on the floor, pots and pans, and some clothes drying by the boarded-up windows. | There is a mattress on the floor, pots and pans, and some clothes drying by the boarded-up windows. |
| "Sorry," says Mr Macomary, clearing away some old newspapers. "It's a special place. I just don't have the power to make it more nicely." | "Sorry," says Mr Macomary, clearing away some old newspapers. "It's a special place. I just don't have the power to make it more nicely." |
| Mr Bizos looks around in the gloom. "If we brought Mr Mandela here now, it would break his heart," he says. | Mr Bizos looks around in the gloom. "If we brought Mr Mandela here now, it would break his heart," he says. |
| To the Mandela family, Mr Bizos is Uncle George. Although he is still very active as a human rights lawyer, he is often interrupted by telephone calls asking him to come to a house in the elegant northern suburb of Houghton. | To the Mandela family, Mr Bizos is Uncle George. Although he is still very active as a human rights lawyer, he is often interrupted by telephone calls asking him to come to a house in the elegant northern suburb of Houghton. |
| That is where Nelson Mandela is in deep retirement - 10 years older than Mr Bizos, and now rarely seen in public. | That is where Nelson Mandela is in deep retirement - 10 years older than Mr Bizos, and now rarely seen in public. |
| Occasionally he slips out to attend a grandchild's graduation or to visit his home village near the coast. But he tires quickly, and his short-term memory is fading. | Occasionally he slips out to attend a grandchild's graduation or to visit his home village near the coast. But he tires quickly, and his short-term memory is fading. |
| Honouring Mandela | Honouring Mandela |
| Mr Bizos points to a corner of Dick Macomary's bedroom. "We want to put computers here, and a library over there," he says. | Mr Bizos points to a corner of Dick Macomary's bedroom. "We want to put computers here, and a library over there," he says. |
| The plan is to turn Chancellor House into a legal resource centre for young black lawyers. | The plan is to turn Chancellor House into a legal resource centre for young black lawyers. |
| "Not a mausoleum, but something living," says Mr Bizos. "Something to honour Mr Mandela. I hope to see that happen in my lifetime - and his." | "Not a mausoleum, but something living," says Mr Bizos. "Something to honour Mr Mandela. I hope to see that happen in my lifetime - and his." |
| Mr Macomary nods enthusiastically. If only it were that simple. | Mr Macomary nods enthusiastically. If only it were that simple. |
| Mandela & Tambo: South Africa's first black law firm opened in 1952 | |
| The city council is supposed to offer alternative accommodation to the 60 or so people living in Chancellor House. | The city council is supposed to offer alternative accommodation to the 60 or so people living in Chancellor House. |
| Money has at last been allocated. But still, the legal negotiations drag on. It has been a decade now. | Money has at last been allocated. But still, the legal negotiations drag on. It has been a decade now. |
| Mr Bizos sighs. "This is not good for you, and it is not good for Mr Mandela. The city council has a reputation for being a little tardy, to say the least," he says. "It is almost a malaise. Nobody seems to take responsibility." | Mr Bizos sighs. "This is not good for you, and it is not good for Mr Mandela. The city council has a reputation for being a little tardy, to say the least," he says. "It is almost a malaise. Nobody seems to take responsibility." |
| Mr Macomary works on the street outside washing cars. "I'm sure the future is bright for everyone," he says, then stops. "But maybe not for me. I don't have anything now. But my babies are going to get everything." | Mr Macomary works on the street outside washing cars. "I'm sure the future is bright for everyone," he says, then stops. "But maybe not for me. I don't have anything now. But my babies are going to get everything." |
| Mr Bizos shakes his hand and walks out. | Mr Bizos shakes his hand and walks out. |
| Eternal optimist | Eternal optimist |
| I'm optimistic about South Africa - but I was optimistic in the 40s, 50s, 60s and so on... George Bizos | I'm optimistic about South Africa - but I was optimistic in the 40s, 50s, 60s and so on... George Bizos |
| I ask him if the fate of Chancellor House says something about modern South Africa. He cuts me dead: "I hate generalisations," he says. | I ask him if the fate of Chancellor House says something about modern South Africa. He cuts me dead: "I hate generalisations," he says. |
| To prove his point we walk east along Fox Street towards the central business district. | To prove his point we walk east along Fox Street towards the central business district. |
| "Look at this," he says, pointing at Main Street. "It used to be a slum. Now it's like a French boulevard with cafes on the pavements." | "Look at this," he says, pointing at Main Street. "It used to be a slum. Now it's like a French boulevard with cafes on the pavements." |
| And it is true - large chunks of central Johannesburg are changing. The businesses that were chased out by crime in the 1990s are returning. | And it is true - large chunks of central Johannesburg are changing. The businesses that were chased out by crime in the 1990s are returning. |
| A group of lawyers standing outside the Magistrate's court all turn and smile at Mr Bizos as he walks past in the sunshine. | A group of lawyers standing outside the Magistrate's court all turn and smile at Mr Bizos as he walks past in the sunshine. |
| "I'm optimistic about South Africa," he says. "But you must bear in mind that I was optimistic in the 40s, and the 50s, and 60s, and so on. I have always been optimistic." | "I'm optimistic about South Africa," he says. "But you must bear in mind that I was optimistic in the 40s, and the 50s, and 60s, and so on. I have always been optimistic." |
| How to listen to: From Our Own Correspondent | How to listen to: From Our Own Correspondent |
| BBC Radio 4: Saturdays, 1130. Second weekly edition on Thursdays, 1100 (some weeks only) | BBC Radio 4: Saturdays, 1130. Second weekly edition on Thursdays, 1100 (some weeks only) |
| BBC World Service: See programme schedules | BBC World Service: See programme schedules |
| Download the podcast | Download the podcast |
| Listen on iPlayer | Listen on iPlayer |
| Story by story at the programme website | Story by story at the programme website |
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