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| Golan Heights divided by support for Assad's Syria | Golan Heights divided by support for Assad's Syria |
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| In the village of Majdal Shams, about 40 miles from Damascus in the Israeli-occupied Golan Heights, support for President Bashar al-Assad is conspicuous. | |
| A Syrian flag flutters above the main square. Demonstrations backing the current regime have attracted up to 5,000 people, drawn from a local Druze population of around 20,000. Portraits of the Syrian president hang in the homes of pro-Assad activists. | A Syrian flag flutters above the main square. Demonstrations backing the current regime have attracted up to 5,000 people, drawn from a local Druze population of around 20,000. Portraits of the Syrian president hang in the homes of pro-Assad activists. |
| But under the surface, there is uncertainty and dismay at what is happening in what most call "the homeland". A small minority of residents of the four villages populated by Syrian Druze high in the Golan have been open in their support for the uprising. But, they say, intimidation has stopped others speaking out. | But under the surface, there is uncertainty and dismay at what is happening in what most call "the homeland". A small minority of residents of the four villages populated by Syrian Druze high in the Golan have been open in their support for the uprising. But, they say, intimidation has stopped others speaking out. |
| "You have to be a fighter to survive [as an opponent of Assad] around here for the past 18 months," says Shefaa Abu Jabal, 26. When the rebellion began inside Syria in March 2011, a few residents of Majdal Shams organised a petition against the regime's brutal response. "One hundred people signed it. But many said we must be loyal to the leader and asked people to withdraw their signatures." Around 17 did so, under family pressure, says Abu Jabal. | "You have to be a fighter to survive [as an opponent of Assad] around here for the past 18 months," says Shefaa Abu Jabal, 26. When the rebellion began inside Syria in March 2011, a few residents of Majdal Shams organised a petition against the regime's brutal response. "One hundred people signed it. But many said we must be loyal to the leader and asked people to withdraw their signatures." Around 17 did so, under family pressure, says Abu Jabal. |
| Quiet threats of social isolation followed, she says: dissidents were suddenly unwelcome at weddings and funerals. Others claim that apple farmers were warned that they might no longer be able to send their crops to sell in Syria if they were known to be Assad opponents; students feared they might be denied permits to resume studies in Damascus. | |
| A few weeks ago, a small gathering of anti-Assad activists in the main square was pelted with eggs and shoes, along with insults and curses. A restaurant, Aood al Nana, connected to an arts centre that had held an exhibition of anti-regime cartoons in May, was forced to close this month because of an unofficial boycott. | A few weeks ago, a small gathering of anti-Assad activists in the main square was pelted with eggs and shoes, along with insults and curses. A restaurant, Aood al Nana, connected to an arts centre that had held an exhibition of anti-regime cartoons in May, was forced to close this month because of an unofficial boycott. |
| The number of anti-Assad protesters taking to the streets has, at best, been a few dozen, says Abu Jabal. "But they were going out in their thousands, chanting for Assad. This has isolated us more and more. We are afraid." | |
| According to Randa Maddah, 29, an artist who spent six years studying in Damascus, "a lot of people here don't like the regime but can't speak out. Opposition is growing, but people are silent because of the mentality of the regime supporters." | |
| Both of these young women, along with almost everyone in Majdal Shams and its neighbouring villages, have relatives in Syria. The Golan Heights was seized from Syria by Israel in the 1967 war, and later annexed in a move not recognised by the international community. Few of its Druze population have taken Israeli citizenship and nearly all strongly identify themselves as Syrian. | Both of these young women, along with almost everyone in Majdal Shams and its neighbouring villages, have relatives in Syria. The Golan Heights was seized from Syria by Israel in the 1967 war, and later annexed in a move not recognised by the international community. Few of its Druze population have taken Israeli citizenship and nearly all strongly identify themselves as Syrian. |
| Until mobile phones, email and Skype became commonplace forms of communication, family members would yell greetings and news across the 1967 ceasefire line at what is known as "Shouting Hill", a spot on the edge of Majdal Shams where outlying village houses brush up against the boundary. | |
| In the years after occupation and annexation, many of the Druze – followers of a secretive splinter from Shia Islam – took part in militant actions against Israeli forces. Fathers, sons, brothers and cousins in many families have spent time in prison for such activities. | In the years after occupation and annexation, many of the Druze – followers of a secretive splinter from Shia Islam – took part in militant actions against Israeli forces. Fathers, sons, brothers and cousins in many families have spent time in prison for such activities. |
| Meanwhile, the Druze population has been joined by around 20,000 Israeli Jewish settlers on the Golan Heights. Although Israel and Syria are still technically at war, the area is relatively calm. However, resentment over the Israeli occupation, and identity with and loyalty to the homeland, still figure strongly. | Meanwhile, the Druze population has been joined by around 20,000 Israeli Jewish settlers on the Golan Heights. Although Israel and Syria are still technically at war, the area is relatively calm. However, resentment over the Israeli occupation, and identity with and loyalty to the homeland, still figure strongly. |
| This month, 86 Golan residents who were studying in Syria asked to return home early amid intensifying fighting. The students were reluctant to speak to the media about what they had witnessed, but Abu Jabal says she was told "horrifying stories about violent attacks" perpetrated by the regime. Maddah's sister, one of the returning students, told her of a dramatically worsening situation. | This month, 86 Golan residents who were studying in Syria asked to return home early amid intensifying fighting. The students were reluctant to speak to the media about what they had witnessed, but Abu Jabal says she was told "horrifying stories about violent attacks" perpetrated by the regime. Maddah's sister, one of the returning students, told her of a dramatically worsening situation. |
| Such accounts are dismissed by Assad supporters. "The media is exploiting and exaggerating [events]," says Ammad Maree, 33, who was born in Damascus but grew up in Majdal Shams. The Syrian army, he says, is "defending the citizens and the legitimacy of the government". | Such accounts are dismissed by Assad supporters. "The media is exploiting and exaggerating [events]," says Ammad Maree, 33, who was born in Damascus but grew up in Majdal Shams. The Syrian army, he says, is "defending the citizens and the legitimacy of the government". |
| Maree‚ who named his three-year-old daughter Damascus, runs a website, baladee.net, which "is now directed to support the regime". He adds: "I feel so hurt about what is happening [in Syria]. There is no way of expressing my feeling. But I have full trust in the Syrian leadership." Confronted with witness reports of shelling of civilians, he says: "I condemn killing, but in war a lot of horrendous things happen. You have to ask why are they doing that? There must be a reason." | Maree‚ who named his three-year-old daughter Damascus, runs a website, baladee.net, which "is now directed to support the regime". He adds: "I feel so hurt about what is happening [in Syria]. There is no way of expressing my feeling. But I have full trust in the Syrian leadership." Confronted with witness reports of shelling of civilians, he says: "I condemn killing, but in war a lot of horrendous things happen. You have to ask why are they doing that? There must be a reason." |
| Like others, he blames "outsiders", including the west, for stirring up trouble and unrest in Syria. In a home bedecked with pro-Assad paraphernalia, a 78-year-old apple farmer, Salman al-Maqet, points the finger at "conspirators" and "terrorists". | |
| "Before the current events, it was heaven [in Syria]," he says, after a morning's work in his orchards. "The ones doing the killing are terrorists – foreigners and Arabs from outside the country. The main conspirators are the west and Israel, and some of our neighbours" – such as Turkey, Qatar and Saudi Arabia. | |
| Maqet is informed about what's going on by Syrian state television. "I only watch the homeland station. I only trust this station. Everything is under the control of the army and we are in good hands. There will be an end to this terrorism in Syria, even if it takes time." | Maqet is informed about what's going on by Syrian state television. "I only watch the homeland station. I only trust this station. Everything is under the control of the army and we are in good hands. There will be an end to this terrorism in Syria, even if it takes time." |
| The west, he says, must stop financing and arming "the terrorists" and end sanctions against the regime. His son, Busher, who served 25 years in an Israeli prison for resisting the occupation, similarly blames a western conspiracy to serve the interests of Israel in the Middle East. "The only things the west cares about are oil and Israel," he says. | The west, he says, must stop financing and arming "the terrorists" and end sanctions against the regime. His son, Busher, who served 25 years in an Israeli prison for resisting the occupation, similarly blames a western conspiracy to serve the interests of Israel in the Middle East. "The only things the west cares about are oil and Israel," he says. |
| Abu Jabal says the tension between pro- and anti-Assad supporters in Majdal Shams also has a generational dimension. "The older, religious people are losing control. There has been huge change, and they say young people have gone too far. If you want to live here, they say, you live according to our rules. | Abu Jabal says the tension between pro- and anti-Assad supporters in Majdal Shams also has a generational dimension. "The older, religious people are losing control. There has been huge change, and they say young people have gone too far. If you want to live here, they say, you live according to our rules. |
| "The problem is not only that we are two groups, it's that they don't acknowledge my right to have different opinions. It's hard for them to accept me as a young, outspoken, educated woman." | "The problem is not only that we are two groups, it's that they don't acknowledge my right to have different opinions. It's hard for them to accept me as a young, outspoken, educated woman." |
| For now, most of the anti-Assad activists have retreated from the streets to Facebook and other internet forums. But, according to some, there is also clandestine activity: groups helping to smuggle supplies of food and medicines by circuitous routes into Syria. | For now, most of the anti-Assad activists have retreated from the streets to Facebook and other internet forums. But, according to some, there is also clandestine activity: groups helping to smuggle supplies of food and medicines by circuitous routes into Syria. |
| "We were optimistic at the beginning," says Abu Jabal. But, she adds, the price of opposition is high in a small, close-knit community. "It's a lot of pressure to handle. It's a war in this place." |