Five Chinese fashion designers to watch

http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/fashion-blog/2012/oct/30/five-chinese-fashion-designers

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In fashion circles, the talk around China usually centres on the consumers, and how the country provides a fresh market for western brands. But what of their own designers? Giorgio Armani, ahead of the game in courting the Chinese market, recently put his faith in the local talent. "I am sure China will produce a designer who shows in London, Paris and Milan," he told Luxx magazine. "I'm just not sure when." Here are five brands that might do just that.

Uma Wang

Dubbed "China's hottest emerging designer" by Business of Fashion, Wang has also been the subject of profiles by Italian Vogue and Another Magazine. The Central Saint Martins graduate established her label in 2005 and is now based in Shanghai, where she has made her name with designs that feature layered minimalism, rich fabrics and sculptural shapes. Her work is sold everywhere from Moscow to London, and Wang recently collaborated with Swatch .

Huishan Zhang

The first to achieve Armani's star prize of showing in a mainstream fashion city, Zhang's debut show came to London in September. He has got big-hitters behind him: the show was sponsored both by Newgen and Lux Up, the members-only luxury site aimed at the Chinese market, and he is already stocked at London boutique Browns. His polished, ladylike aesthetic, often featuring embroidered Chinese tropes such as pagodas, has got real worldwide appeal.

Liang Zi

Well established on the Beijing fashion week schedule, Liang Zi was also part of the China Image festival fashion show. Known for her use of gambiered Canton silk – a traditional, hand-dyed material with a 500-year history and eco-credentials – Zi has won awards for her use of the fabric. Her clothes won't set the world alight but they have an edge of glamour. Her cocktail dresses, colour, peplums and frills have caught the eye of the Swedish royals. Zi's signature runway trick? Barefoot models.

Bao Bao Wan

The granddaughter of Wan Li, who was once the chairman of the National People's Congress Standing Committee, Wan isn't one to downplay familial connections. Dubbing herself "China's first socialite" on her website, Wan is also becoming known for the fine jewellery she has been designing since 2006. A delicate, feminine aesthetic is embellished with references to Chinese culture – teapot charms rendered in diamonds, for example. The brand has reach outside of China, too – Bao Bao Wan is is stocked by Matches in London, and has been featured in US and British Vogue.

Basic

While some of the filmy fabrics might not be to everyone's taste, Basic, which featured in last night's fashion show, offers an insight into the taste of the Chinese customer. Around in China since the mid-90s, it now has various high-end strands including Basic Editions, Basic Anywear and Be Prive, a favourite among local pop stars. The involvement of French designer Anne-Valerie Hash suggests the brand would now like to expand into foreign markets.