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Lebanese Port Drifts Amid Conflicts Lebanese Port Drifts Amid Conflicts
(25 days later)
TRIPOLI, LEBANON — There was a time when this ancient port city still had a future.TRIPOLI, LEBANON — There was a time when this ancient port city still had a future.
To many, the 1960s were Lebanon’s golden age. There had been a sectarian conflict in 1958 that had threatened to decay into civil war, but this was generally seen more as a hiccup than as writing on the wall. In the years that followed, the economy boomed, foreign investment flowed in and the country became a familiar destination for the international jet set.To many, the 1960s were Lebanon’s golden age. There had been a sectarian conflict in 1958 that had threatened to decay into civil war, but this was generally seen more as a hiccup than as writing on the wall. In the years that followed, the economy boomed, foreign investment flowed in and the country became a familiar destination for the international jet set.
The Lebanese government, looking to build on this image, worked to modernize the young country. In 1963, it commissioned the famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer to design a fairground for its second city, Tripoli.The Lebanese government, looking to build on this image, worked to modernize the young country. In 1963, it commissioned the famous Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer to design a fairground for its second city, Tripoli.
Mr. Niemeyer, who designed much of Brasilia, Brazil’s capital, and contributed to the plan for the United Nations headquarters in New York, died last week at the age of 104.Mr. Niemeyer, who designed much of Brasilia, Brazil’s capital, and contributed to the plan for the United Nations headquarters in New York, died last week at the age of 104.
His futuristic plans for Tripoli’s fair called for a large amphitheater, a smaller domed experimental theater, a convention center, a scaled down replica of St. Louis’ Gateway Arch, a helipad and more, all set amid gardens and shimmering reflecting pools. The project was to be an iconic anchor for Tripoli’s future growth, promoting economic, cultural and artistic development in the city while helping to underpin Lebanon’s place on the world stage.His futuristic plans for Tripoli’s fair called for a large amphitheater, a smaller domed experimental theater, a convention center, a scaled down replica of St. Louis’ Gateway Arch, a helipad and more, all set amid gardens and shimmering reflecting pools. The project was to be an iconic anchor for Tripoli’s future growth, promoting economic, cultural and artistic development in the city while helping to underpin Lebanon’s place on the world stage.
This future never happened.This future never happened.
Construction of the fair was nearly completed by 1975, when the civil war began. Fifteen years later, with 150,000 dead, construction was still unfinished.Construction of the fair was nearly completed by 1975, when the civil war began. Fifteen years later, with 150,000 dead, construction was still unfinished.
Today the fair is abandoned. The inside of the domed experimental theater is dark and reinforcing steel bars hang from the unfinished ceiling.Today the fair is abandoned. The inside of the domed experimental theater is dark and reinforcing steel bars hang from the unfinished ceiling.
Without sound tiles in place, the quietest sounds echo repeatedly. Outside, bullet holes blemish its concrete shell. The artificial ponds are empty except when they flood with rainwater. The gardens are kept up, but there are few visitors to the expansive oval-shaped complex. Those who do come are met with questions and suspicion at the gate from the guards. It sometimes takes cajoling and negotiation to gain entry.Without sound tiles in place, the quietest sounds echo repeatedly. Outside, bullet holes blemish its concrete shell. The artificial ponds are empty except when they flood with rainwater. The gardens are kept up, but there are few visitors to the expansive oval-shaped complex. Those who do come are met with questions and suspicion at the gate from the guards. It sometimes takes cajoling and negotiation to gain entry.
In 2006, the World Monument Fund put the fair on its annual watch list of the 100 most endangered sites in need of preservation. In 2006, the World Monuments Fund put the fair on its biennial watch list of the 100 most endangered sites in need of preservation.
The neglect and decline seen here at the renamed Rashid Karami International Fair mirrors that of Tripoli. Once the seat of Crusader, Mamluke and Ottoman provinces and a major port serving Syria, Tripoli is no longer known for its meandering souks, its commerce or its culture: Modern day Tripoli is known for its widespread poverty, high levels of corruption and repeated bouts of violence.The neglect and decline seen here at the renamed Rashid Karami International Fair mirrors that of Tripoli. Once the seat of Crusader, Mamluke and Ottoman provinces and a major port serving Syria, Tripoli is no longer known for its meandering souks, its commerce or its culture: Modern day Tripoli is known for its widespread poverty, high levels of corruption and repeated bouts of violence.
“I don’t understand why Tripoli is like this,” said Mira Minkara, 33, a tour guide from the city. “It’s a city that has a lot of potential — if it was developed in the right way it would be a great city.”“I don’t understand why Tripoli is like this,” said Mira Minkara, 33, a tour guide from the city. “It’s a city that has a lot of potential — if it was developed in the right way it would be a great city.”
While Beirut still had its problems after the civil war, there was at least an effort to rebuild and develop the city. Tripoli, a city of half a million, was left to its own devices, abandoned in the eyes of many.While Beirut still had its problems after the civil war, there was at least an effort to rebuild and develop the city. Tripoli, a city of half a million, was left to its own devices, abandoned in the eyes of many.
Today, more than half of its residents live on less than $4 per day, according to data provided by the United Nations’ Economic and Social Commission for Western Asia. For the educated, there are few well paying jobs, so most move to Beirut or emigrate.Today, more than half of its residents live on less than $4 per day, according to data provided by the United Nations’ Economic and Social Commission for Western Asia. For the educated, there are few well paying jobs, so most move to Beirut or emigrate.
While it could be said that the wounds of the civil war in Lebanon never truly healed, this is especially true in Tripoli. The conflict in neighboring Syria has deepened Tripoli’s divides, resulting in increased fighting between Sunni militias that support Syria’s rebels and Alawite coreligionists of the Syrian president, Bashar al-Assad, who staunchly back the regime.While it could be said that the wounds of the civil war in Lebanon never truly healed, this is especially true in Tripoli. The conflict in neighboring Syria has deepened Tripoli’s divides, resulting in increased fighting between Sunni militias that support Syria’s rebels and Alawite coreligionists of the Syrian president, Bashar al-Assad, who staunchly back the regime.
In the heaviest fighting this year, 17 were killed last week in the latest round of clashes between militias from the Sunni Bab al-Tabbaneh and Alawite Jabal Mohsen neighborhoods.In the heaviest fighting this year, 17 were killed last week in the latest round of clashes between militias from the Sunni Bab al-Tabbaneh and Alawite Jabal Mohsen neighborhoods.
Tripoli is the hometown of a number of wealthy and powerful Lebanese politicians, including the country’s prime minister, Najib Mikati. Increasingly, they have come under criticism for not improving its situation. During the most recent clashes, a photo circulated on social media Web sites of a banner hung in downtown Tripoli by disgruntled residents aimed at the politicians from the city. “The head of the government, 8 members of Parliament, 5 ministers — where are you?” it read.Tripoli is the hometown of a number of wealthy and powerful Lebanese politicians, including the country’s prime minister, Najib Mikati. Increasingly, they have come under criticism for not improving its situation. During the most recent clashes, a photo circulated on social media Web sites of a banner hung in downtown Tripoli by disgruntled residents aimed at the politicians from the city. “The head of the government, 8 members of Parliament, 5 ministers — where are you?” it read.
Some also believe that politicians arm Tripoli’s poor and encourage conflict to curry support and loyalty.Some also believe that politicians arm Tripoli’s poor and encourage conflict to curry support and loyalty.
“There’s not one politician in Tripoli who can say they’re not involved in the fighting,” said Alia Ibrahim, a Tripoli native and correspondent for the Saudi-owned satellite news channel al-Arabiya.“There’s not one politician in Tripoli who can say they’re not involved in the fighting,” said Alia Ibrahim, a Tripoli native and correspondent for the Saudi-owned satellite news channel al-Arabiya.
None of the politicians “invest a penny in this area, they only invest in buying votes,” said Osei Kabbara, 38, an American-educated Tripoli resident who is looking to leave the country.None of the politicians “invest a penny in this area, they only invest in buying votes,” said Osei Kabbara, 38, an American-educated Tripoli resident who is looking to leave the country.
The combined effects of the poor security and economic situation are making life in the city difficult.The combined effects of the poor security and economic situation are making life in the city difficult.
“Even if there is no war between Jabal Mohsen and Bab al-Tabbaneh, the streets of Tripoli aren’t safe anymore,” said Ghassan, Mr. Kabbara’s 44-year-old cousin who works as a consultant for upscale restaurants and cafes. “I know a lot of people who are trying to move to another place in Lebanon because they cannot take it anymore.”“Even if there is no war between Jabal Mohsen and Bab al-Tabbaneh, the streets of Tripoli aren’t safe anymore,” said Ghassan, Mr. Kabbara’s 44-year-old cousin who works as a consultant for upscale restaurants and cafes. “I know a lot of people who are trying to move to another place in Lebanon because they cannot take it anymore.”
There are still hopes that the fairground could help revive the city, economically at least. Currently, those in charge of the fair are looking to attract foreign investors to develop the grounds, but instability in Lebanon — and Tripoli in particular — has made this difficult.There are still hopes that the fairground could help revive the city, economically at least. Currently, those in charge of the fair are looking to attract foreign investors to develop the grounds, but instability in Lebanon — and Tripoli in particular — has made this difficult.
“This is our problem,” said Antoine Abou Rida, the current director general of the fairground. “Every day we have problems in Tripoli, I don’t know if somebody will come or not.”“This is our problem,” said Antoine Abou Rida, the current director general of the fairground. “Every day we have problems in Tripoli, I don’t know if somebody will come or not.”
This week, Mr. Abou Rida stayed away from his office at the fair: A cease-fire had been enforced by a heavy Lebanese Army deployment, but the atmosphere remained tense and the city center, which usually escapes the fighting, had been hit by mortars and rockets in the previous days.This week, Mr. Abou Rida stayed away from his office at the fair: A cease-fire had been enforced by a heavy Lebanese Army deployment, but the atmosphere remained tense and the city center, which usually escapes the fighting, had been hit by mortars and rockets in the previous days.
Some years ago, a California company pitched the idea of building a theme park in the grounds, but this was withdrawn when Israel and Hezbollah fought a war in 2006. Chinamex, a company owned by the Chinese government, proposed developing the plot, but backed away after the Lebanese Army battled Al Qaeda-linked Fatah al-Islam militants in a Palestinian refugee camp north of the city in 2007.Some years ago, a California company pitched the idea of building a theme park in the grounds, but this was withdrawn when Israel and Hezbollah fought a war in 2006. Chinamex, a company owned by the Chinese government, proposed developing the plot, but backed away after the Lebanese Army battled Al Qaeda-linked Fatah al-Islam militants in a Palestinian refugee camp north of the city in 2007.
Occasionally, parts of the fair’s convention center are cleaned up and hired out for events, but most of the site’s use these days seems to be related to the region’s conflicts. One end of the center has been occupied by the U.N. refugee agency to register Syrians fleeing the conflict next door. The United Nations says there are more than 150,000 Syrian refugees in Lebanon. Tens of thousands are in Tripoli alone, compounding the economic difficulties facing the city.Occasionally, parts of the fair’s convention center are cleaned up and hired out for events, but most of the site’s use these days seems to be related to the region’s conflicts. One end of the center has been occupied by the U.N. refugee agency to register Syrians fleeing the conflict next door. The United Nations says there are more than 150,000 Syrian refugees in Lebanon. Tens of thousands are in Tripoli alone, compounding the economic difficulties facing the city.
Across the promenade on the other edge of the fair, protesters have set up a small encampment in an unused parking lot. Posters of Brig. Gen. Wissam al-Hassan — the former head of the police’s intelligence branch who was killed in a Beirut car bomb in October — hang from the tents.Across the promenade on the other edge of the fair, protesters have set up a small encampment in an unused parking lot. Posters of Brig. Gen. Wissam al-Hassan — the former head of the police’s intelligence branch who was killed in a Beirut car bomb in October — hang from the tents.
The protesters have been camped out across the street from Mr. Mikati’s residence since General Hassan’s assassination and are calling for the fall of the government. Many of their tents — meant for Syrian refugees — are marked with the logo of the Office of the U.N. High Commissioner for Refugees.The protesters have been camped out across the street from Mr. Mikati’s residence since General Hassan’s assassination and are calling for the fall of the government. Many of their tents — meant for Syrian refugees — are marked with the logo of the Office of the U.N. High Commissioner for Refugees.

This article has been revised to reflect the following correction:

Correction: January 4, 2013

A previous version of this article contained two inaccuracies in a reference to a global list of endangered cultural heritage sites. The name of the organization publishing the list is the World Monuments Fund, not the World Monument Fund. The list is published biennially, not annually.