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London men's fashion show launches at No 10 London men's fashion show launches at No 10
(35 minutes later)
David Cameron's fashion credentials came under the greatest scrutiny of his career on Monday evening when the prime minister hosted a reception to celebrate the opening of the London men's "fashion week". David Cameron's fashion credentials were under the greatest scrutiny of his career on Monday evening when the prime minister hosted a reception to celebrate the opening of London's men's fashion week.
Cameron welcomed designers, magazine editors and store buyers to Downing Street on the first day of London Collections: Men. Following in the well-heeled footsteps of Prince Charles, who hosted an evening to launch the inaugural London Collections: Men at St James's Palace last June, Cameron welcomed designers, magazine editors and store buyers to Downing Street.
Dylan Jones, chairman of LCM and GQ's editor, introduced the prime minister, using his speech to highlight the importance of government backing and stress that menswear is one of the fastest-growing areas of the fashion and luxury markets. Cameron offered a breakdown of his outfit – a Richard James suit, Oliver Sweeney shoes and M&S pants – before confessing: "I know nothing about fashion. When I go shopping, my wife doesn't let me look around. I am put into the changing room and passed things."
"From Savile Row to Shoreditch, from Bond Street to Brick Lane, British menswear has never been more dynamic, or indeed more successful," Jones said. He spoke of the country's ability to produce the best designers and how the fashion industry was a huge opportunity for the UK economy.
Staged over three days, LCM features more than 60 shows and presentations that will set the tone for the autumn/winter 2013 menswear season. Influential collections by the likes of Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders and Tom Ford will be shown to international press and buyers. "Fashion is not just some sort of accessory, you [the fashion industry] are at the heart of selling more, creating more ... Go for it!"
Topman Design, the high-street brand's directional label,, which has in the past put super-short shorts, man-clutches and crop tops on the catwalk, was one of Monday's biggest draws. Dylan Jones, GQ editor and chairman of London Collections: Men, said: "From Savile Row to Shoreditch, from Bond Street to Brick Lane, British menswear has never been more dynamic or indeed more successful."
The first outfit on the catwalk summed up the label's key message for next autumn: mixing sporty outerwear, such as parkas, with suiting. Playing with shape and proportion was emphasised through the styling, so cropped, fur-trimmed coats fell short over suit jackets, while trousers tucked into thick, woollen hiking socks and boots had extra volume through the leg. Staged over the course of three days, the event features more than 60 shows and presentations, which will set the tone for the autumn/winter 2013 menswear season. Influential collections by the likes of Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders and Tom Ford will be shown to the press and buyers from across the globe.
Topman's creative director, Gordon Richardson, said "an early gentleman explorer" was central to the look: "He has come into contact with other cultures, such as those of Tibet or India, and then absorbed those cultures into his own style." Topman Design, which has previously put super short shorts, man-clutches and crop tops on the catwalk, was one of Monday's biggest draws.
Certainly the appearance of giant backpacks with compasses and hip flasks swinging off the straps ticked the explorer box. The colour palette warmed up as the show progressed to include spicy oranges and reds, while Tibetan prints featured on boiled-wool pea coats. Lurex gold thread ran through knitwear and socks were worn with sandals, while a burgundy winter suit of blazer and shorts featured a kilt-style skirt front. The first outfit on to the catwalk summed up the label's key message for next autumn: mixing sporty outerwear, such as parkas, with suiting. Playing with shape and proportion was emphasised through the styling, so cropped fur trimmed coats fell short over suit jackets while trousers, tucked into thick wool hiking socks and boots, had extra volume through the leg.
One of London fashion's strengths is in unearthing the latest talent and diverse ideas of what men can wear, from austere minimalism (Lee Roach) to mask sculptures made from wooden slats (Craig Green). Gordon Richardson, Topman Design's creative director, explained that "an early gentleman explorer" was central to this look for next autumn. "He has come into contact with other cultures, such as those of Tibet or India, and then absorbed those cultures into his own style," he said .
The parkas, especially in the bold, splashy colours with sporty drawstrings, look set to be a big hit, while the quality of the tailoring, including single-breasted brocade silk jackets, underlines the British high street's skill at creating good-looking clothes for competitive prices. Certainly the appearance of giant backpacks, which featured compasses and hip flasks swinging off their straps, ticked the explorer box.
Live-streamed to 100 countries, with an integrated Facebook, Twitter and 360-degree tech experience, the show reveals the full reach of men's catwalk fashion. The colour palette warmed up as the show progressed to include spicy oranges and reds while Tibetan prints featured on boiled wool pea coats. Lurex gold thread ran through knitwear, socks were worn with sandals while a burgundy winter suit of blazer and shorts featured a kilt-style skirt front.
Royal College of Art graduate Lou Dalton, who sells well at Liberty, showed off her signature fusion of tailoring with sporty flourishes in a tight collection that felt both rugged and slick. Suit jackets came in thick Shetland wool but featured pocket flaps or panels in contrast tech fabrics. Tartan trousers and slabs of rich green added bite. The parkas, especially in the bold splashy colours with sporty drawstrings, look set to be a big hit while the quality of the tailoring, including single-breasted brocade silk jackets, underlines the British high-street's skill at creating good looking clothes at competitive prices.
Newcomer Roach, a Central St Martins graduate who set up his business in 2010, is the capital's new king of minimalism. He strips away all flounce and frippery to produce a lean aesthetic where jackets come with buckle fastenings, and the biggest statement is a strip of silver on a jumper sleeve or a trouser ankle. Already selling at cult store Dover Street Market, Roach's vision is strong and he is sensibly taking his time to develop it. For autumn/winter he introduced super fine Scottish cashmere, though next season it would be nice to see him experiment with colour. Royal College of Art graduate Lou Dalton, who sells well at Liberty, showed off her signature fusion of tailoring with sporty flourishes in a tight collection that felt both rugged and slick. Suit jackets came in thick Shetland wool but featured pocket flaps or panels in contrast tech fabrics. Tartan trousers and slabs of rich green added bite.
Colour and fun is at the heart of the energetic duo Agi&Sam's signature. Typically their latest collection, inspired by the Marquess of Bath, featured cobalt coats, gold-print trousers and colourful galoshes. Known for lively prints – this time paisleys featuring badgers, foxes and pheasants – there were also jolly knickerbockers, body-warmer-style vests and a swish double-breasted navy suit jacket with yellow sleeves. Notably, the designers had refined their tailoring – suit jackets featured zips in the back – while outerwear looked more grown-up and sophisticated. Newcomer Lee Roach, a Central Saint Martins graduate who set up his business in 2010, is the capital's new king of minimalism. Roach strips away all flounce and frippery to produce a lean aesthetic where jackets come with buckle fastenings and the biggest statement is a strip of silver on the sleeve of a jumper or the ankle of a trouser. For autumn/winter, he introduced super fine Scottish cashmere.
Agi&Sam's latest collection, inspired by the Marquess of Bath, featured cobalt coats, gold print trousers and , colourful galoshes. Known for lively prints, this time paisleys featuring badges, foxes and pheasants, there were also , jolly knickerbockers, body-warmer-style vests and a swish double-breasted navy suit jacket with yellow sleeves.