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Milan menswear collection dominated by Gucci man Jetsetting Gucci man takes centre stage again in Milan
(about 3 hours later)
Grand coats worn dandily on shoulders, a mohair jumper in duck-egg blue and patterned silk scarves wound around models' necks and knotted at the back. Grand coats were worn dandily on shoulders, there was a mohair jumper in duck-egg blue and patterned silk scarves were wound around models' necks and knotted at the back.
To suggest the Gucci man is something of a jetsetter is an understatement. He is in fact the central menswear character for the Italian fashion powerhouse, which showed its latest collection for autumn/winter 2013 on Monday in Milan. To suggest the Gucci man is something of a jetsetter would be an understatement. He is in fact the central menswear character for the Italian fashion powerhouse, which showed its latest collection for autumn/winter 2013 on Monday in Milan.
Coats, tailoring and leather goods naturally formed the heart of this beautifully executed and typically luxurious offering from creative director Frida Giannini. Coats, tailoring and leather goods formed the heart of this beautifully executed and typically luxurious offering from creative director Frida Giannini.
A burgundy shearling bomber jacket had a whiff of the designer's signature 1970s spirit, a mackintosh came in a waterproof wool while styles in winter white, including a military jacket inspired by a cavalry soldier's wardrobe, emphasised who the Gucci customer is. A burgundy shearling bomber jacket had a whiff of the designer's signature 1970s spirit, a mackintosh came in a waterproof wool, while styles in winter white, including a military jacket inspired by a cavalry soldier's wardrobe, emphasised who the Gucci customer is.
"The Gucci man expresses his inherently free spirit with bold nonchalance," Giannini said of the collection."The Gucci man expresses his inherently free spirit with bold nonchalance," Giannini said of the collection.
Neatly-cut suiting came in tweed and Prince of Wales check – a wool windowpane-style check suit in a lovely "Robin's egg blue" perfectly balanced the tricky line between a statement suit and a wearable one. Neatly cut suits came in tweed and Prince of Wales check – a wool windowpane-style in a lovely "robin's egg blue" that perfectly balanced the tricky line between a statement suit and a wearable one.
For eveningwear, Giannini remixed daytime suiting fabrics, such as pinstripe tweed, for a fresh spin on the tuxedo. These will surely appeal to the label's young A-list fans, such as Robert Pattinson, who wore a Gucci Signoria suit for the Golden Globes on Sunday. For evening wear, Giannini remixed daytime fabrics, such as pinstripe tweed, for a fresh spin on the tuxedo. These will surely appeal to the label's young A-list fans, including Robert Pattinson, who wore a Gucci Signoria suit for the Golden Globes on Sunday.
Accessories, another key category for the brand, saw bags featuring handles inspired by riding whips, while the house "Bamboo" handle appeared on briefcases and an oversized leather backpack, which was carried at the models' sides. By contrast, at Emporio Armani it was all about "urban tech". This collection, shown earlier on Monday, was designed around "iconic styles from the male wardrobe … revisited in hi-tech materials". A sporty feel rippled through the clothes and the styling.
A thick cable-knit jumper in tomato red, a smart ochre wool coat and a lime green mohair cable knit jumper all provided pops of autumnal colour. Trousers were slim to the point of leggings and often came with a cuffed hem. Luxury jogger-style trousers are the new jeans in Milan, and also featured in Marc Jacobs' presentation. Short trouser lengths worn with ankle boots was another dominant look for next autumn. To balance the slender and short proportion of the trousers, coats had a roomier, more voluminous feel, often in a spongy neoprene or nappa leather.
In contrast, at Emporio Armani, it was all about "Urban Tech". This collection, shown earlier on Monday, was designed around "iconic styles from the male wardrobe … revisited in hi-tech materials". This translated into a sporty feel that rippled through the clothes and the styling. A series of tech-fabric colour block knits in combinations, such as grey with yellow, looked fresh.
Being the younger line of the Armani empire, this show was a successful exercise in creating an appropriately youthful set of clothes while also ticking off various emerging trends. Classic grey and check suits opened the show and were worn with snug jackets or coats over the top while furry backpacks or clutch bags finished off outfits with flair.
Trousers were slim to the point of leggings, and often came with a cuffed hem. Luxury jogger-style trousers are the new jeans in Milan, and also featured in Marc Jacobs' Milan presentation.
Short trouser lengths worn with ankle boots is another dominant look for next autumn. It was another idea Armani included. To balance the slender and short proportion of the trousers, coats had a roomier, more voluminous feel, often in a spongy neoprene or nappa leather.
A series of tech-fabric colour block knits, in combinations, such as grey with yellow, also looked fresh.
Classic grey and check suiting opened the show and was worn with snug jackets or coats over the top while furry backpacks or folded-over clutch bags finished off outfits with typical Italian flair.