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Wool renaissance boosts UK suppliers Wool renaissance boosts UK suppliers
(7 months later)
In the foothills of the Snowy Mountains of New South Wales, the grazing merino sheep are on the frontline of a renaissance in British wool manufacturing that is being championed by everyone from Prince Charles to Victoria Beckham.In the foothills of the Snowy Mountains of New South Wales, the grazing merino sheep are on the frontline of a renaissance in British wool manufacturing that is being championed by everyone from Prince Charles to Victoria Beckham.
From Australia, the wool is shipped to mills dotted through Yorkshire, Lancashire and the Scottish Highlands, where expert weavers and dyers are turning out some of the finest cardigans, scarves and suits in the world.From Australia, the wool is shipped to mills dotted through Yorkshire, Lancashire and the Scottish Highlands, where expert weavers and dyers are turning out some of the finest cardigans, scarves and suits in the world.
Just 30 years ago, the UK wool market was on its knees and a once thriving industry that had more than 130 mills, employing 50,000 workers, looked likely to die as retailers turned to cheaper suppliers. Meanwhile a shift to more casual attire meant that, even in the City, tailored woollen suits fell out of favour.Just 30 years ago, the UK wool market was on its knees and a once thriving industry that had more than 130 mills, employing 50,000 workers, looked likely to die as retailers turned to cheaper suppliers. Meanwhile a shift to more casual attire meant that, even in the City, tailored woollen suits fell out of favour.
However, in the past five years wool has made a comeback, with annual sales soaring 50% from £180m in 2007 to £270m last year. It now provides employment for 5,000 in around 40 fully functioning mills, with production up 12% in a year.However, in the past five years wool has made a comeback, with annual sales soaring 50% from £180m in 2007 to £270m last year. It now provides employment for 5,000 in around 40 fully functioning mills, with production up 12% in a year.
Experts put this down to demanding middle classes in emerging markets, a swing back to sharp suits and knitted jumpers (think Mad Men, James Bond and The Killing) and a more conscientious customer keen to know the exact journey of their favourite winter coat.Experts put this down to demanding middle classes in emerging markets, a swing back to sharp suits and knitted jumpers (think Mad Men, James Bond and The Killing) and a more conscientious customer keen to know the exact journey of their favourite winter coat.
James Sugden, of the manufacturer Johnstons of Elgin, where he has spent 25 year as managing director, explained: "I've been in this industry for 40 years and we are busier now than I have ever seen because although we can't compete on price we can compete on quality.James Sugden, of the manufacturer Johnstons of Elgin, where he has spent 25 year as managing director, explained: "I've been in this industry for 40 years and we are busier now than I have ever seen because although we can't compete on price we can compete on quality.
"It's a bit like Scottish whisky – we've got a great iconic brand that is perfect for the growing middle classes in emerging markets. If you go to Edinburgh and walk along the Royal Mile, you'll see Chinese tourists buying bundles of high-quality scarves to take home with them.""It's a bit like Scottish whisky – we've got a great iconic brand that is perfect for the growing middle classes in emerging markets. If you go to Edinburgh and walk along the Royal Mile, you'll see Chinese tourists buying bundles of high-quality scarves to take home with them."
More than 70% of wool products made in the UK now end up abroad and fashion houses from around the world are keeping a close eye on the market, including Chanel, which bought the Scottish Barrie Knitwear cashmere mill out of administration last year.More than 70% of wool products made in the UK now end up abroad and fashion houses from around the world are keeping a close eye on the market, including Chanel, which bought the Scottish Barrie Knitwear cashmere mill out of administration last year.
The revival has brought with it recognition from the Prince of Wales, who launched the Campaign for Wool in 2010 with the blessing of designers, manufacturers and, seemingly, the public. It has led to the reintroduction of the International Woolmark prize, which gave early recognition to young Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld in the 1950s.The revival has brought with it recognition from the Prince of Wales, who launched the Campaign for Wool in 2010 with the blessing of designers, manufacturers and, seemingly, the public. It has led to the reintroduction of the International Woolmark prize, which gave early recognition to young Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld in the 1950s.
Organisers of this year's award have secured judges including Victoria Beckham and Donatella Versace, for the ceremony which takes place on Saturday.Organisers of this year's award have secured judges including Victoria Beckham and Donatella Versace, for the ceremony which takes place on Saturday.
Stuart McCullough, chief executive of the Woolmark Company, said: "There are now more UK mills working with high quality merino wool than there have been for many years and they are now coping with more demand that they have seen for many decades."Stuart McCullough, chief executive of the Woolmark Company, said: "There are now more UK mills working with high quality merino wool than there have been for many years and they are now coping with more demand that they have seen for many decades."
High-street retailers have also come on board, with Marks & Spencer, John Lewis, Topshop and Paul Smith all having introduced British-made woollen garments once more.High-street retailers have also come on board, with Marks & Spencer, John Lewis, Topshop and Paul Smith all having introduced British-made woollen garments once more.
Sugden said: "I think consumers like to know more and more the story of who makes their clothes. We have mill tours with queues of people wanting to see how it is made and there is a whole education process around manufacturing."Sugden said: "I think consumers like to know more and more the story of who makes their clothes. We have mill tours with queues of people wanting to see how it is made and there is a whole education process around manufacturing."
The industry appears to be strengthening and manufacturers, which are nearly all independently owned and with a commitment to creating local jobs, have adapted and expanded.The industry appears to be strengthening and manufacturers, which are nearly all independently owned and with a commitment to creating local jobs, have adapted and expanded.
Yorkshire-based Abraham Moon & Sons recently opened a new warehouse and, in Leeds, Laxtons has invested in a new mill. The next stage for the industry is to train a new generation of dyers, weavers and spinners.Yorkshire-based Abraham Moon & Sons recently opened a new warehouse and, in Leeds, Laxtons has invested in a new mill. The next stage for the industry is to train a new generation of dyers, weavers and spinners.
And with the fashion industry squarely behind them, the British wool-makers appear to have every chance of future success.And with the fashion industry squarely behind them, the British wool-makers appear to have every chance of future success.
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