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Conservationists hope to turn a disused Paris railway line into a nature trail Conservationists hope to turn a disused Paris railway line into a nature trail
(7 months later)
The visit starts on an icy January morning, overlooking Cours de Vincennes in the 12th arrondissement of Paris. The rails are coated in frost. We step gingerly out onto the iron bridge that spans the busy traffic, then enter an area that has run wild. The noise of the city is suddenly dulled. We are exploring the Petite Ceinture (which translates as "little belt"), a 32km circular rail link round Paris – part elevated, part in cuttings or underground – inside the Périphérique ring road.The visit starts on an icy January morning, overlooking Cours de Vincennes in the 12th arrondissement of Paris. The rails are coated in frost. We step gingerly out onto the iron bridge that spans the busy traffic, then enter an area that has run wild. The noise of the city is suddenly dulled. We are exploring the Petite Ceinture (which translates as "little belt"), a 32km circular rail link round Paris – part elevated, part in cuttings or underground – inside the Périphérique ring road.
Buildings rise on either side of the old railway, but sufficiently far away to give a real sense of space. The track runs through an abandoned station, covered in colourful graffiti. Beyond the vegetation we glimpse blocks of flats with spacious balconies, conjuring up an odd impression of having slipped behind the scenery.Buildings rise on either side of the old railway, but sufficiently far away to give a real sense of space. The track runs through an abandoned station, covered in colourful graffiti. Beyond the vegetation we glimpse blocks of flats with spacious balconies, conjuring up an odd impression of having slipped behind the scenery.
So what should Paris do with this secret hideaway? Leave it to run wild, or turn it into a park? The city council has launched a consultation process involving residents and neighbourhood groups, the aim being to take a decision at the end of the year. The topic has stirred a lively response: train enthusiasts are keen to reinstate the service; nature enthusiasts want to turn the track into a wildlife reserve; and sport lovers sees the route as a gift for exercising.So what should Paris do with this secret hideaway? Leave it to run wild, or turn it into a park? The city council has launched a consultation process involving residents and neighbourhood groups, the aim being to take a decision at the end of the year. The topic has stirred a lively response: train enthusiasts are keen to reinstate the service; nature enthusiasts want to turn the track into a wildlife reserve; and sport lovers sees the route as a gift for exercising.
The orbital railway was originally built between 1852-69 to transport goods and passengers, connecting up the mainline stations. A victim of the Métro's success, passenger services were withdrawn in 1934, with a trickle of goods traffic persisting until the 1990s. Only a section round the west of the capital is now used by the RER C express service. Vegetation has taken over, soon followed by wildlife (bats and birds, hedgehogs and foxes), turning the old line into a biodiversity reserve. Other, more or less illegal practices have also taken root here: it is a paradise for graffiti artists and a refuge for the homeless. Various work-integration schemes carry out a minimum amount of upkeep.The orbital railway was originally built between 1852-69 to transport goods and passengers, connecting up the mainline stations. A victim of the Métro's success, passenger services were withdrawn in 1934, with a trickle of goods traffic persisting until the 1990s. Only a section round the west of the capital is now used by the RER C express service. Vegetation has taken over, soon followed by wildlife (bats and birds, hedgehogs and foxes), turning the old line into a biodiversity reserve. Other, more or less illegal practices have also taken root here: it is a paradise for graffiti artists and a refuge for the homeless. Various work-integration schemes carry out a minimum amount of upkeep.
The council would like to turn part of the track into a green swathe, but it is not the only one to have a say. The land belongs to Réseau Ferré de France (RFF, which operates the whole French rail infrastructure). In 2006 the two organisations signed an agreement enabling sections of track to be opened to the public.The council would like to turn part of the track into a green swathe, but it is not the only one to have a say. The land belongs to Réseau Ferré de France (RFF, which operates the whole French rail infrastructure). In 2006 the two organisations signed an agreement enabling sections of track to be opened to the public.
A nature trail was established in the 16th arrondissement, and a park is being laid out across the Seine in the 15th district. But the agreement expires this year. RFF is considering shutting down the stretches of track where there is no further prospect of rail traffic, in particular in the east and south, between Gare des Gobelins, near Place d'Italie, and the Parc André Citroën, west of the Eiffel tower.A nature trail was established in the 16th arrondissement, and a park is being laid out across the Seine in the 15th district. But the agreement expires this year. RFF is considering shutting down the stretches of track where there is no further prospect of rail traffic, in particular in the east and south, between Gare des Gobelins, near Place d'Italie, and the Parc André Citroën, west of the Eiffel tower.
Anne Hidalgo, the deputy-mayor tasked with planning (slated to run for mayor in the municipal election next year), advocates a long east-west swathe connecting the wooded areas – Vincennes and Boulogne – at either end of the city. "My idea is to make this an area for leisure, walking and getting some fresh air, keeping as much continuity as possible," she says. Hidalgo is conscious of the fact that her potential Green allies are keen to protect biodiversity and consequently opposed to chopping the trail into little bits. But allowance must also be made for other factors: two-thirds of the line is in the open air, the rest consisting of either tunnels or deep cuttings, posing a risk for ramblers.Anne Hidalgo, the deputy-mayor tasked with planning (slated to run for mayor in the municipal election next year), advocates a long east-west swathe connecting the wooded areas – Vincennes and Boulogne – at either end of the city. "My idea is to make this an area for leisure, walking and getting some fresh air, keeping as much continuity as possible," she says. Hidalgo is conscious of the fact that her potential Green allies are keen to protect biodiversity and consequently opposed to chopping the trail into little bits. But allowance must also be made for other factors: two-thirds of the line is in the open air, the rest consisting of either tunnels or deep cuttings, posing a risk for ramblers.
In Germany, there is an unhappy example of the dangers of public access to tunnels: at the 2010 Love Parade in Duisburg 19 people were killed and 340 injured in a stampede in a former rail tunnel.In Germany, there is an unhappy example of the dangers of public access to tunnels: at the 2010 Love Parade in Duisburg 19 people were killed and 340 injured in a stampede in a former rail tunnel.
"The tunnels should not be seen as obstacles. We can get round them by climbing over the top. Alternatively they may be converted into bars, toilets and storage areas for park maintenance," Hidalgo counters."The tunnels should not be seen as obstacles. We can get round them by climbing over the top. Alternatively they may be converted into bars, toilets and storage areas for park maintenance," Hidalgo counters.
Debate has also focused on the scale of the amenities and the corresponding management organisation. Some parts could become public gardens, other parts could be left to run wild, managed by neighbourhood groups. It is a matter of striking a balance between renovating the existing track or preserving it. Town planners working on the project stress that it constitutes "a useful void", varying in width from 15 to 40 metres.Debate has also focused on the scale of the amenities and the corresponding management organisation. Some parts could become public gardens, other parts could be left to run wild, managed by neighbourhood groups. It is a matter of striking a balance between renovating the existing track or preserving it. Town planners working on the project stress that it constitutes "a useful void", varying in width from 15 to 40 metres.
"At no point does the Petite Ceinture merge with the city. Being relatively inaccessible it has a special status. The track is almost always either above or below the level of the adjoining land, so the railway and urban environments never merge, with a clearly defined border between the two," according to the team at the Paris Planning Workshop, which has produced a projection for the orbital railway."At no point does the Petite Ceinture merge with the city. Being relatively inaccessible it has a special status. The track is almost always either above or below the level of the adjoining land, so the railway and urban environments never merge, with a clearly defined border between the two," according to the team at the Paris Planning Workshop, which has produced a projection for the orbital railway.
The city council will need to convince RFF to sell its land at a reasonable price. Although it may not be developed, the Petite Ceinture may still be worth a fortune.The city council will need to convince RFF to sell its land at a reasonable price. Although it may not be developed, the Petite Ceinture may still be worth a fortune.
• This article appeared in Guardian Weekly, which incorporates material from Le Monde• This article appeared in Guardian Weekly, which incorporates material from Le Monde
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