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| Fur flies at Marni show | Fur flies at Marni show |
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| Marni – not to be confused with, or linked to, Giorgio Armani – is a label that has been loved by fashion insiders and celebrities such as Cindy Sherman and Alexa Chung since it launched in 1994. | Marni – not to be confused with, or linked to, Giorgio Armani – is a label that has been loved by fashion insiders and celebrities such as Cindy Sherman and Alexa Chung since it launched in 1994. |
| Despite its recent collaboration with H&M, the leftfield label is far from mainstream. On Sunday in Milan, designer Consuelo Castiglioni showed her first collection since Diesel's Renzo Rosso, who was in the front row, acquired a majority stake in the brand. | Despite its recent collaboration with H&M, the leftfield label is far from mainstream. On Sunday in Milan, designer Consuelo Castiglioni showed her first collection since Diesel's Renzo Rosso, who was in the front row, acquired a majority stake in the brand. |
| And Marni's autumn/winter collection was packed with fur. Beaver, alpaca and long-haired shansi were all included here. Thick furry bands adorned skirt hems, while accessories included beaver riding boots, fluffy coloured stoles and wool elbow-length mittens. | And Marni's autumn/winter collection was packed with fur. Beaver, alpaca and long-haired shansi were all included here. Thick furry bands adorned skirt hems, while accessories included beaver riding boots, fluffy coloured stoles and wool elbow-length mittens. |
| Fur is big business in Milan. This season Prada showed jumbo chinchilla coats, Sportmax featured beaver handbags and Fendi, with its animal-pelt heritage, trimmed everything with it, including sunglasses. | Fur is big business in Milan. This season Prada showed jumbo chinchilla coats, Sportmax featured beaver handbags and Fendi, with its animal-pelt heritage, trimmed everything with it, including sunglasses. |
| Marni declared its collection: "austere, with a romantic edge", which in terms of mood was similar to Prada's successful "raw elegance" show last week. Both featured models with grungy hair and an undercurrent of sex appeal. | Marni declared its collection: "austere, with a romantic edge", which in terms of mood was similar to Prada's successful "raw elegance" show last week. Both featured models with grungy hair and an undercurrent of sex appeal. |
| Castiglioni's opening looks featured stark tailoring in wool: bandeau tops with back zips, cropped wide-legged trousers with turn-ups and winter shorts were seen, all in school uniform grey. Highlights included modern sculptural tech blousons, mannish coats and pleated skirts, which revealed slices of sheer fabric as they swished down the runway. | Castiglioni's opening looks featured stark tailoring in wool: bandeau tops with back zips, cropped wide-legged trousers with turn-ups and winter shorts were seen, all in school uniform grey. Highlights included modern sculptural tech blousons, mannish coats and pleated skirts, which revealed slices of sheer fabric as they swished down the runway. |
| Well-known for print, this season's key motif featured forest landscapes and branches on elegant dresses and skirts. And with their debut perfume, one of fashion's best money-spinners, launched with Estée Lauder in New York this month, Marni's ascent looks convincing. | Well-known for print, this season's key motif featured forest landscapes and branches on elegant dresses and skirts. And with their debut perfume, one of fashion's best money-spinners, launched with Estée Lauder in New York this month, Marni's ascent looks convincing. |
| Rosso, whose holding company, Only the Brave, also controls the avant-garde labels Viktor & Rolf and Maison Martin Margiela, said recently that working with the brand would allow them to develop to the next level. "We will provide new energies and resources and a modern and technological vision to add brilliance to the label and increase its visibility and status," he said. | Rosso, whose holding company, Only the Brave, also controls the avant-garde labels Viktor & Rolf and Maison Martin Margiela, said recently that working with the brand would allow them to develop to the next level. "We will provide new energies and resources and a modern and technological vision to add brilliance to the label and increase its visibility and status," he said. |
| Two of Italy's biggest labels, Dolce & Gabbana and Armani, who showed his secondary Emporio line, also took to the catwalk on Sunday. | Two of Italy's biggest labels, Dolce & Gabbana and Armani, who showed his secondary Emporio line, also took to the catwalk on Sunday. |
| After a strong and modern menswear collection in January, Armani's latest women's offering looked decidedly retro, with its Great Gatsby-era feel. Perhaps with Baz Luhrmann's film adapatation due this summer, Armani is hoping to cash in on the inevitable fashion buzz. Accessories such as bowler hats and Mary Jane shoes added to the period feel. | After a strong and modern menswear collection in January, Armani's latest women's offering looked decidedly retro, with its Great Gatsby-era feel. Perhaps with Baz Luhrmann's film adapatation due this summer, Armani is hoping to cash in on the inevitable fashion buzz. Accessories such as bowler hats and Mary Jane shoes added to the period feel. |
| As the designer's younger collection, it also ticked off next autumn's fuzzy trend. Flippy, pleated skater skirts, dresses and trousers in mohair featured on the catwalk. | As the designer's younger collection, it also ticked off next autumn's fuzzy trend. Flippy, pleated skater skirts, dresses and trousers in mohair featured on the catwalk. |
| Dolce & Gabbana, meanwhile, delivered an autumn-winter blockbuster with a finale of about 50 models flooding the catwalk in red bejewelled dresses of various shapes and cuts. This trademark spectacle perfectly sums up the Italian label's lavish and decadent confidence while demonstrating some of the finest craftsmanship in fashion. | Dolce & Gabbana, meanwhile, delivered an autumn-winter blockbuster with a finale of about 50 models flooding the catwalk in red bejewelled dresses of various shapes and cuts. This trademark spectacle perfectly sums up the Italian label's lavish and decadent confidence while demonstrating some of the finest craftsmanship in fashion. |
| Dubbed "tailored mosaic", the designers once again looked to Sicily for inspiration. This season, specifically the Cathedral of Monreale in Palermo and golden mosaics created by local artists in the 11th century. | Dubbed "tailored mosaic", the designers once again looked to Sicily for inspiration. This season, specifically the Cathedral of Monreale in Palermo and golden mosaics created by local artists in the 11th century. |
| Jewel-encrusted crowns, dresses and handbags featuring religious motifs and mosaic embellishment also provided sparkle. Though it was its elegant, Hitchcock-style, monochrome herringbone tailoring – a sharp skirt suit and sensible bag, for example – which best exemplified the enduring appeal of this heavyweight label. | Jewel-encrusted crowns, dresses and handbags featuring religious motifs and mosaic embellishment also provided sparkle. Though it was its elegant, Hitchcock-style, monochrome herringbone tailoring – a sharp skirt suit and sensible bag, for example – which best exemplified the enduring appeal of this heavyweight label. |
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