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How Britain got a taste for horsemeat How Britain got a taste for horsemeat
(about 7 hours later)
Among the many side-effects of the horsemeat scandal – alongside the rare smiles on the faces of high‑street butchers', a rise in the sale of home meat grinders, and big sulks at Tesco – is the fact that more Britons are now eating horse (knowingly) than they have since the second world war.Among the many side-effects of the horsemeat scandal – alongside the rare smiles on the faces of high‑street butchers', a rise in the sale of home meat grinders, and big sulks at Tesco – is the fact that more Britons are now eating horse (knowingly) than they have since the second world war.
Pubs across the land have been offering horsemeat, usually with a Shergarburger gag on the menu board. While Oliver Peyton is the latest high-end restaurateur to test the equivore (or, possibly, hippophage) market with a pop-up – this Friday he'll be cooking horse tartare and sirloin at the National Gallery's Café. Joke: there's oats for pudding.Pubs across the land have been offering horsemeat, usually with a Shergarburger gag on the menu board. While Oliver Peyton is the latest high-end restaurateur to test the equivore (or, possibly, hippophage) market with a pop-up – this Friday he'll be cooking horse tartare and sirloin at the National Gallery's Café. Joke: there's oats for pudding.
Meanwhile exotic meats suppliers Kezie Foods of Berwickshire, reports sales of horse up more than 100%, both to private customers and to restaurants and butchers. Their horse mince – sourced either in France or Brazil – costs a tempting £3.50 for 500g and a 1kg rump roast is £22. Meanwhile exotic meats suppliers Kezie Foods of Berwickshire reports sales of horse up more than 100%, both to private customers and to restaurants and butchers. Their horse mince – sourced either in France or Brazil – costs a tempting £3.50 for 500g and a 1kg rump roast is £22.
Could horse catch on? It is half the price of beef and undeniably delicious. I went to a steak tasting at Edinburgh's L'Escargot Bleu bistro at the height of the scandal. Chef and patron Fred Berkmillar had packed in 12 Scottish foodies, cooks and meat suppliers and gave us rump steaks to try. One was the best 30-day-aged Orkney beef, the other Comtois horse, farmed in the Dordogne.Could horse catch on? It is half the price of beef and undeniably delicious. I went to a steak tasting at Edinburgh's L'Escargot Bleu bistro at the height of the scandal. Chef and patron Fred Berkmillar had packed in 12 Scottish foodies, cooks and meat suppliers and gave us rump steaks to try. One was the best 30-day-aged Orkney beef, the other Comtois horse, farmed in the Dordogne.
You could have confused the horse with beef, but its steak – juicy, tender, just slightly gamey – won the fry-off by 12 votes to none. And we were all the better for it: horse has lots of  iron, little fat and lots of omega-3. It is healthier than beef, so long as you're not eating an old steeplechaser laced with phenylbutazone. It is not true, by the way, that "bute" is one of those horse painkillers with recreational possibilities.You could have confused the horse with beef, but its steak – juicy, tender, just slightly gamey – won the fry-off by 12 votes to none. And we were all the better for it: horse has lots of  iron, little fat and lots of omega-3. It is healthier than beef, so long as you're not eating an old steeplechaser laced with phenylbutazone. It is not true, by the way, that "bute" is one of those horse painkillers with recreational possibilities.
Berkmillar's restaurant has sold specially bred French horse for three years but, since horsegate, sales have soared: on a recent Wednesday L'Escargot Bleu had 65 customers and sold 28 dishes of horse steak at £17.90 each.Berkmillar's restaurant has sold specially bred French horse for three years but, since horsegate, sales have soared: on a recent Wednesday L'Escargot Bleu had 65 customers and sold 28 dishes of horse steak at £17.90 each.
So what about some locally sourced filly fillets? As yet no British farmer has got in on the act. Talk in the restaurant trade has it that there is a breeder of Shetland ponies in Wales who has been sounding out the market. But going public is not a fence he's ready to jump.So what about some locally sourced filly fillets? As yet no British farmer has got in on the act. Talk in the restaurant trade has it that there is a breeder of Shetland ponies in Wales who has been sounding out the market. But going public is not a fence he's ready to jump.