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Pope Benedict: his true legacy is his fashion sense Pope Benedict: his true legacy is his fashion sense
(7 months later)
Something truly extraordinary is unfolding in Rome. For the first time in 600 years, a pope has stepped down; and not just any pope, but the extremely fashion-forward Pope Benedict XVI. For all the problems the Catholic Church faces in the 21st century, the pope emeritus has at least provided the Vatican with a strong sartorial voice.Something truly extraordinary is unfolding in Rome. For the first time in 600 years, a pope has stepped down; and not just any pope, but the extremely fashion-forward Pope Benedict XVI. For all the problems the Catholic Church faces in the 21st century, the pope emeritus has at least provided the Vatican with a strong sartorial voice.
At the beginning of his papacy, Benedict was caught in a small media storm over a supposed weakness for red Prada papal slip-ons. The Vatican denied it, saying: "The pope is not dressed by Prada but by Christ" (who as we all know is somewhat less well regarded for his shoe design). Whoever made them, the red shoes tell a much bigger story. Benedict's predecessor, John Paul II, wore plain brown lace-ups with his vestments – hardly papal magnificence. With this reintroduction of red Moroccan leather, Benedict's shoes represented his politics as much as his good taste in cobblers.At the beginning of his papacy, Benedict was caught in a small media storm over a supposed weakness for red Prada papal slip-ons. The Vatican denied it, saying: "The pope is not dressed by Prada but by Christ" (who as we all know is somewhat less well regarded for his shoe design). Whoever made them, the red shoes tell a much bigger story. Benedict's predecessor, John Paul II, wore plain brown lace-ups with his vestments – hardly papal magnificence. With this reintroduction of red Moroccan leather, Benedict's shoes represented his politics as much as his good taste in cobblers.
The root of his need to rediscover some of the more traditional, even baroque, elements of papal dressing can be traced back to the great liturgy gear-change of 1965, when the phase known as Vatican II, a period of modernisation aimed at reconnecting the Vatican to Catholics worldwide, came to an end. Latin mass, for example, was abandoned in favour of churches delivering services in their own language. The pope wanted to be seen to be more in touch with the people.The root of his need to rediscover some of the more traditional, even baroque, elements of papal dressing can be traced back to the great liturgy gear-change of 1965, when the phase known as Vatican II, a period of modernisation aimed at reconnecting the Vatican to Catholics worldwide, came to an end. Latin mass, for example, was abandoned in favour of churches delivering services in their own language. The pope wanted to be seen to be more in touch with the people.
This meant the dumping of all tassels, trimmings and most decoration on vestments. Highly theatrical robes were considered too outre. Out went anything that made church leaders look like Cardinal Richelieu. As a priest friend of mine puts it: "The Church processed into the second Vatican council in cloth of gold and watered silk, and shambled out of the other end in drip-dry horse blankets and polyester." Pope Paul VI even sold off the papal tiara, a three-tiered, egg-shaped adornment that made our imperial state crown look like something from Lidl.This meant the dumping of all tassels, trimmings and most decoration on vestments. Highly theatrical robes were considered too outre. Out went anything that made church leaders look like Cardinal Richelieu. As a priest friend of mine puts it: "The Church processed into the second Vatican council in cloth of gold and watered silk, and shambled out of the other end in drip-dry horse blankets and polyester." Pope Paul VI even sold off the papal tiara, a three-tiered, egg-shaped adornment that made our imperial state crown look like something from Lidl.
Benedict's desire to recapture the Church's traditional liturgy and doctrine goes hand in hand with what he wore as pope. On his election in 2005, he wore Ming the Merciless-style vestments left over from John Paul's administration, and after getting rid of his first master of ceremonies, Piero Marini, who had subjected him to a sort of blue dust-sheet for his first papal mass in Austria, he turned to Guido Marini (no relation) – an MC who understood the power of tradition. At a time of global economic uncertainty, and with the Church struggling to retain its flock in an increasingly secularised world, reinforcing tradition and underlining the continuity of ritual was a bold and, Benedict felt, necessary direction.Benedict's desire to recapture the Church's traditional liturgy and doctrine goes hand in hand with what he wore as pope. On his election in 2005, he wore Ming the Merciless-style vestments left over from John Paul's administration, and after getting rid of his first master of ceremonies, Piero Marini, who had subjected him to a sort of blue dust-sheet for his first papal mass in Austria, he turned to Guido Marini (no relation) – an MC who understood the power of tradition. At a time of global economic uncertainty, and with the Church struggling to retain its flock in an increasingly secularised world, reinforcing tradition and underlining the continuity of ritual was a bold and, Benedict felt, necessary direction.
After this, his sartorial choices coaxed the Church out of a 1970s time warp. My favourite item from his wardrobe is a short cape known as a mozzetta, the winter version of which is fur-lined, ermine-trimmed and made of crimson silk. Equally glamorous is the papal pallium, a thick band that encircles the neck with pendants at the end, which is traditionally made of white wool from sheep raised by trappist monks. Papal rings, diamond, sapphire and ruby pectoral crosses, the all-important golden mitres (with more jewels): he was a truly bling pope. A young priest told me a story about when, before celebrating mass at St Peter's, he had the honour of preparing his vestments in the presence of His Holiness. Pope Benedict came down to the sacristy in a lift, as usual, and had three sets of vestments and mitres set out to choose from. He went straight for the most elaborate. This love of gothic vestments was about more than basic vanity; beauty and dignity reflect the splendour and mystery of liturgy. To Benedict this is God-focused rather than community-centred, as was favoured by the 1968 generation.After this, his sartorial choices coaxed the Church out of a 1970s time warp. My favourite item from his wardrobe is a short cape known as a mozzetta, the winter version of which is fur-lined, ermine-trimmed and made of crimson silk. Equally glamorous is the papal pallium, a thick band that encircles the neck with pendants at the end, which is traditionally made of white wool from sheep raised by trappist monks. Papal rings, diamond, sapphire and ruby pectoral crosses, the all-important golden mitres (with more jewels): he was a truly bling pope. A young priest told me a story about when, before celebrating mass at St Peter's, he had the honour of preparing his vestments in the presence of His Holiness. Pope Benedict came down to the sacristy in a lift, as usual, and had three sets of vestments and mitres set out to choose from. He went straight for the most elaborate. This love of gothic vestments was about more than basic vanity; beauty and dignity reflect the splendour and mystery of liturgy. To Benedict this is God-focused rather than community-centred, as was favoured by the 1968 generation.
Though not usually in sync with the fashion world, the Vatican is currently bang on trend. A return to quality, an interest in heritage, and support of artisanal craftsman could not be more now – look to Chanel, McQueen, Valentino for examples. Lace and velvet are everywhere – from the pope to Paris, they are the height of chic.Though not usually in sync with the fashion world, the Vatican is currently bang on trend. A return to quality, an interest in heritage, and support of artisanal craftsman could not be more now – look to Chanel, McQueen, Valentino for examples. Lace and velvet are everywhere – from the pope to Paris, they are the height of chic.
Despite this, Benedict wisely stayed clear of actual designers. In 2007 the Italian film director Franco Zeffirelli offered his services as a consultant to the Vatican. Having previously designed the staging for mass ceremonies under John Paul II, it was suspected that Zeffirelli wanted to play down Benedict's "showy" image. The Vatican politely declined. Perhaps they had learned from a state visit to Paris in 1997, when quirky designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (France's answer to Vivienne Westwood), persuaded John Paul II, 5,000 priests and 500 bishops to dress in rainbow cross motif vestments in what the designer later explained was a symbol of "God's promise of peace to Noah". When Castelbajac pointed out that the vestments clearly used the international symbol of gay liberation, the rainbow flag, the Vatican responded that no one had a copyright on the rainbow.Despite this, Benedict wisely stayed clear of actual designers. In 2007 the Italian film director Franco Zeffirelli offered his services as a consultant to the Vatican. Having previously designed the staging for mass ceremonies under John Paul II, it was suspected that Zeffirelli wanted to play down Benedict's "showy" image. The Vatican politely declined. Perhaps they had learned from a state visit to Paris in 1997, when quirky designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (France's answer to Vivienne Westwood), persuaded John Paul II, 5,000 priests and 500 bishops to dress in rainbow cross motif vestments in what the designer later explained was a symbol of "God's promise of peace to Noah". When Castelbajac pointed out that the vestments clearly used the international symbol of gay liberation, the rainbow flag, the Vatican responded that no one had a copyright on the rainbow.
So what can we expect from the next pope, both the man and the wardrobe? John Paul II got by on charisma and plain clothes, quite different from the 18th-century traditionalist gestures of Benedict. Whose style will win out? Conducting a straw poll of the priests I know, it looks like the traditionalist approach is coming out on top. The younger generation of clergy is open to wearing older, baroque vestments, whereas the more senior priests can't understand it. Pope Benedict, ironically, is of this older generation, and was in fact ordained before Vatican II, so in a way he has gone against the grain in attempting to bring the church full circle. Whether this means that the church is more attractive to wayward worshippers remains to be seen.So what can we expect from the next pope, both the man and the wardrobe? John Paul II got by on charisma and plain clothes, quite different from the 18th-century traditionalist gestures of Benedict. Whose style will win out? Conducting a straw poll of the priests I know, it looks like the traditionalist approach is coming out on top. The younger generation of clergy is open to wearing older, baroque vestments, whereas the more senior priests can't understand it. Pope Benedict, ironically, is of this older generation, and was in fact ordained before Vatican II, so in a way he has gone against the grain in attempting to bring the church full circle. Whether this means that the church is more attractive to wayward worshippers remains to be seen.
My money is on Cardinal Angelo Scola. The Italians would love an Italian in the Vatican, and as a key figure in the Church's Christian-Muslim dialogue, he is highly relevant. And, being archbishop of Milan, he is likely to keep those vestments utterly glorious. Fashion outsider? The magnificent former archbishop of St Louis, the American Cardinal Raymond Leo Burke. An appearance by him is the Catholic equivalent of a Broadway musical.My money is on Cardinal Angelo Scola. The Italians would love an Italian in the Vatican, and as a key figure in the Church's Christian-Muslim dialogue, he is highly relevant. And, being archbishop of Milan, he is likely to keep those vestments utterly glorious. Fashion outsider? The magnificent former archbishop of St Louis, the American Cardinal Raymond Leo Burke. An appearance by him is the Catholic equivalent of a Broadway musical.
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