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| Israeli locust plague is a blessing for adventurous palates | Israeli locust plague is a blessing for adventurous palates |
| (about 1 month later) | |
| When Moshe Basson heard that millions of locusts were swarming across the border from Egypt just two weeks before Passover, his first thought was not of the ominous biblical precedent – nor of agricultural devastation wrought by the marauding insects – it was of a nice risotto with coriander seeds and a pinch of chilli. | When Moshe Basson heard that millions of locusts were swarming across the border from Egypt just two weeks before Passover, his first thought was not of the ominous biblical precedent – nor of agricultural devastation wrought by the marauding insects – it was of a nice risotto with coriander seeds and a pinch of chilli. |
| Basson, the head chef at acclaimed kosher restaurant The Eucalyptus, has suggested a novel way of dealing with the pest: eating them. Locusts, are the only insects which are both kosher and halal, and Basson – a specialist in food from the Biblical-era – has served them for years. And what others have seen as a plague, he saw as a windfall. | Basson, the head chef at acclaimed kosher restaurant The Eucalyptus, has suggested a novel way of dealing with the pest: eating them. Locusts, are the only insects which are both kosher and halal, and Basson – a specialist in food from the Biblical-era – has served them for years. And what others have seen as a plague, he saw as a windfall. |
| "I've had calls from religious people who say they would pay anything to eat [locusts]. I've taken huge payments from people who want me to cook them at their homes. In the restaurant, we charge around 90 shekels (£15) a dish," Basson explained. | "I've had calls from religious people who say they would pay anything to eat [locusts]. I've taken huge payments from people who want me to cook them at their homes. In the restaurant, we charge around 90 shekels (£15) a dish," Basson explained. |
| "They taste something between sunflower seeds and baby shrimps – they actually don't taste like much. I like them, but they're desired not because they are delicious but because they are rare." | "They taste something between sunflower seeds and baby shrimps – they actually don't taste like much. I like them, but they're desired not because they are delicious but because they are rare." |
| Millions of locusts entered Israel on Tuesday, carried on strong winds from the Egyptian Sinai into Kadesh Barnea, the site of the largest encampment of Jews during their period in the wilderness, after fleeing Egypt. They were the survivors of a swarm of more than 30 million bugs that had besieged Egypt for more than a week, wreaking millions of dollars worth of damage in destroyed crops and plaguing Cairo's markets. | Millions of locusts entered Israel on Tuesday, carried on strong winds from the Egyptian Sinai into Kadesh Barnea, the site of the largest encampment of Jews during their period in the wilderness, after fleeing Egypt. They were the survivors of a swarm of more than 30 million bugs that had besieged Egypt for more than a week, wreaking millions of dollars worth of damage in destroyed crops and plaguing Cairo's markets. |
| Unlike many Israelis, Basson was overjoyed by their arrival. On Wednesday, he received several deliveries of live locusts, including a bag personally delivered by the mayor of a Negev town besieged by the insects, which he is serving deep fried in salads. | Unlike many Israelis, Basson was overjoyed by their arrival. On Wednesday, he received several deliveries of live locusts, including a bag personally delivered by the mayor of a Negev town besieged by the insects, which he is serving deep fried in salads. |
| In leaner times, he has relied on a supplier who cultivates locusts whose name and location he keeps a closely guarded secret. | In leaner times, he has relied on a supplier who cultivates locusts whose name and location he keeps a closely guarded secret. |
| "I can't tell you where he breeds them – it is possible that the current swarm started from his farm. You don't know how quickly they can multiply and spread," Basson confided. | "I can't tell you where he breeds them – it is possible that the current swarm started from his farm. You don't know how quickly they can multiply and spread," Basson confided. |
| But as bloggers inspired by Basson flooded Hebrew sites with locust recipes this week, leading rabbis spoke out against the trend. Even while a precedent of consuming locusts is established in key Jewish texts the Talmud and the oral Jewish laws, thereby rendering it kosher, the eccentric habit is controversial. | But as bloggers inspired by Basson flooded Hebrew sites with locust recipes this week, leading rabbis spoke out against the trend. Even while a precedent of consuming locusts is established in key Jewish texts the Talmud and the oral Jewish laws, thereby rendering it kosher, the eccentric habit is controversial. |
| "We are not familiar with their names and marks and have no clear tradition regarding it," Rabbi Yitzhak Yosef said on Wednesday. "Communities with a tradition of eating locusts allow it but most of the people in Israel don't and we cannot rely on the marks, even when it's called locust." | "We are not familiar with their names and marks and have no clear tradition regarding it," Rabbi Yitzhak Yosef said on Wednesday. "Communities with a tradition of eating locusts allow it but most of the people in Israel don't and we cannot rely on the marks, even when it's called locust." |
| Locust-eating defenders point to the Yemenite Jewish communities who have snacked on grasshoppers for centuries and particularly value bugs that have become fat and succulent by feeding on sesame plants. Basson picked up several of his finest recipes from new Yemeni immigrants, as well as Palestinian Bedouin who cook the insects in butter or with rice and milk. | Locust-eating defenders point to the Yemenite Jewish communities who have snacked on grasshoppers for centuries and particularly value bugs that have become fat and succulent by feeding on sesame plants. Basson picked up several of his finest recipes from new Yemeni immigrants, as well as Palestinian Bedouin who cook the insects in butter or with rice and milk. |
| Basson, who considers himself a defender of biblical culinary tradition, described his dilemma: "Some of the big rabbis are not so happy that we sell locusts so if people call and ask, we tell them we don't have any on the menu. But there are religious people who come here and say that they aren't leaving here until they have eaten a locust. It's a tricky situation." | Basson, who considers himself a defender of biblical culinary tradition, described his dilemma: "Some of the big rabbis are not so happy that we sell locusts so if people call and ask, we tell them we don't have any on the menu. But there are religious people who come here and say that they aren't leaving here until they have eaten a locust. It's a tricky situation." |
| On Thursday, the ministry of agriculture claimed to have solved the kosher debate. Having sprayed huge swathes of the Negev with pesticides, workers with the ministry were confident they had brought the infestation under control. The extent of damage to the region's crops, however, remains unclear. | On Thursday, the ministry of agriculture claimed to have solved the kosher debate. Having sprayed huge swathes of the Negev with pesticides, workers with the ministry were confident they had brought the infestation under control. The extent of damage to the region's crops, however, remains unclear. |
| Moshe Basson's locust pasta | Moshe Basson's locust pasta |
| First throw your live locusts into boiling vegetable stock. They will squeal like lobsters as the air shoots out of their shells. When they have turned pink, remove from the stock with a slotted spoon. | First throw your live locusts into boiling vegetable stock. They will squeal like lobsters as the air shoots out of their shells. When they have turned pink, remove from the stock with a slotted spoon. |
| Take off the heads like you might do with a prawn. Remove the black thread from along its spine, its wings and the smaller legs. You can leave on the two long hind legs. | Take off the heads like you might do with a prawn. Remove the black thread from along its spine, its wings and the smaller legs. You can leave on the two long hind legs. |
| Season flour or chickpea flour with garlic, a bit of chilli powder, salt and some sweet paprika. I also like to add coriander seeds. They usually need a lot of salt. | Season flour or chickpea flour with garlic, a bit of chilli powder, salt and some sweet paprika. I also like to add coriander seeds. They usually need a lot of salt. |
| Dip each locust in beaten egg, then dip them in the flour mixture deep fry them until they become golden brown and crispy. Remove and set aside. | Dip each locust in beaten egg, then dip them in the flour mixture deep fry them until they become golden brown and crispy. Remove and set aside. |
| Fry some chopped garlic, and add to that chopped tomato and thyme. You can also add pesto from roasted bell peppers. Sautée the deep-fried locusts in this ragu for a few minutes until combined. Serve with pasta. | Fry some chopped garlic, and add to that chopped tomato and thyme. You can also add pesto from roasted bell peppers. Sautée the deep-fried locusts in this ragu for a few minutes until combined. Serve with pasta. |
| • This article was amended on 12 March 2013. Locusts are not on the menu at the Eucalyptus, as the article said because of an editing error, but are served only at private dining events. | • This article was amended on 12 March 2013. Locusts are not on the menu at the Eucalyptus, as the article said because of an editing error, but are served only at private dining events. |
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