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| Great Gatsby film is cue for elegance in tough times | Great Gatsby film is cue for elegance in tough times |
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| When Baz Luhrmann's remake of The Great Gatsby takes the prestigious opening slot at the 2013 Cannes Film Festival in May, style-watchers are predicting a visual feast that will turn many back on to the 1920s. | When Baz Luhrmann's remake of The Great Gatsby takes the prestigious opening slot at the 2013 Cannes Film Festival in May, style-watchers are predicting a visual feast that will turn many back on to the 1920s. |
| Every few years, a film comes along that proves to be a source of sartorial inspiration: from Audrey Hepburn's gamine princess in Roman Holiday and Diane Keaton's androgynous style in Annie Hall, to the colonial style that swept the catwalks in the mid-80s, heavily influenced by Karen Blixen's cinematic safari in Out of Africa. | Every few years, a film comes along that proves to be a source of sartorial inspiration: from Audrey Hepburn's gamine princess in Roman Holiday and Diane Keaton's androgynous style in Annie Hall, to the colonial style that swept the catwalks in the mid-80s, heavily influenced by Karen Blixen's cinematic safari in Out of Africa. |
| Anticipation of the sixth film adaptation of F Scott Fitzgerald's novel has meant Art Deco style has already been filtering into our consciousness as designers and retailers anticipate audiences eager to mimic the opulent elegance of the "Roaring Twenties". Pinterest, the online social pinboard site that is a decent barometer of trends, has seen a surge of activity by "pinners" creating boards dedicated to Gatsby-themed weddings, interiors, beauty and fashion. | Anticipation of the sixth film adaptation of F Scott Fitzgerald's novel has meant Art Deco style has already been filtering into our consciousness as designers and retailers anticipate audiences eager to mimic the opulent elegance of the "Roaring Twenties". Pinterest, the online social pinboard site that is a decent barometer of trends, has seen a surge of activity by "pinners" creating boards dedicated to Gatsby-themed weddings, interiors, beauty and fashion. |
| Claridge's, famed for its Art Deco architecture, will host a series of Charleston masterclasses featuring "London's finest flappers", The Bee's Knees. "Those who envisage themselves as true Gatsby girls will be able to adorn themselves with accessories such as sequinned headbands, strings of pearls and satin elbow-length gloves," says the blurb. | Claridge's, famed for its Art Deco architecture, will host a series of Charleston masterclasses featuring "London's finest flappers", The Bee's Knees. "Those who envisage themselves as true Gatsby girls will be able to adorn themselves with accessories such as sequinned headbands, strings of pearls and satin elbow-length gloves," says the blurb. |
| At Topshop, Zara and ASOS, teens and twentysomethings have been buying the beaded flapper dresses, while designers from Jenny Packham to Ralph Lauren have paraded pricier, grown-up versions of the same on the catwalk. Jewellers are reporting renewed interest in pearls, while Mary Jane shoes, and cocoon-shaped coats are being interpreted for contemporary customers. | At Topshop, Zara and ASOS, teens and twentysomethings have been buying the beaded flapper dresses, while designers from Jenny Packham to Ralph Lauren have paraded pricier, grown-up versions of the same on the catwalk. Jewellers are reporting renewed interest in pearls, while Mary Jane shoes, and cocoon-shaped coats are being interpreted for contemporary customers. |
| The UK's leading specialist fashion auctioneer, Kerry Taylor, is witnessing increasing demand for vintage pieces from the era, especially in the US where wealthy socialites are snapping up original designs to wear at cocktail parties. | The UK's leading specialist fashion auctioneer, Kerry Taylor, is witnessing increasing demand for vintage pieces from the era, especially in the US where wealthy socialites are snapping up original designs to wear at cocktail parties. |
| "Something I would normally estimate at £400-£600 is rocketing to £1,000-£1,500 because the US market wants it, although a Chanel or Vionnet original will go for £15-£20,000," she says. "However, you don't want to look like you've stepped out of Downton Abbey. Daphne Guinness takes a great vintage piece and styles it with something from Claire's Accessories or a cutting edge designer . Kate Moss mixes it up too, wearing strong accessories with a fragile, feminine original dress. The key is not to do the look head-to-toe, as if you're going to a costume party." | "Something I would normally estimate at £400-£600 is rocketing to £1,000-£1,500 because the US market wants it, although a Chanel or Vionnet original will go for £15-£20,000," she says. "However, you don't want to look like you've stepped out of Downton Abbey. Daphne Guinness takes a great vintage piece and styles it with something from Claire's Accessories or a cutting edge designer . Kate Moss mixes it up too, wearing strong accessories with a fragile, feminine original dress. The key is not to do the look head-to-toe, as if you're going to a costume party." |
| Using a similar approach to juxtapose contemporary style with period authenticity, Luhrmann's wife and collaborator, Catherine Martin, enlisted the help of Miuccia Prada to dress the film's leading lady, Carey Mulligan, as Daisy Buchanan, reprising a role made famous by Mia Farrow in Jack Clayton's 1974 film with Robert Redford as Jay Gatsby, now played by Leonardo DiCaprio. | Using a similar approach to juxtapose contemporary style with period authenticity, Luhrmann's wife and collaborator, Catherine Martin, enlisted the help of Miuccia Prada to dress the film's leading lady, Carey Mulligan, as Daisy Buchanan, reprising a role made famous by Mia Farrow in Jack Clayton's 1974 film with Robert Redford as Jay Gatsby, now played by Leonardo DiCaprio. |
| "Miuccia always sees the future with vintage eyes and Baz always sees the past through modern eyes, so there's an interesting nexus of thought," Martin has said. "So, after a lengthy intellectual collaboration where we talked about these modern garments infiltrating the story … she contributed 40 costumes. [They] provide this wonderful texture." | "Miuccia always sees the future with vintage eyes and Baz always sees the past through modern eyes, so there's an interesting nexus of thought," Martin has said. "So, after a lengthy intellectual collaboration where we talked about these modern garments infiltrating the story … she contributed 40 costumes. [They] provide this wonderful texture." |
| Costume designer Theoni Aldredge won an Oscar four decades ago for her work with the then little-known designer Ralph Lauren, creating a much-admired wardrobe for Redford as the elegant millionaire. Despite middling reviews, the 1974 film was a financial success. A second Oscar was awarded for best music while the exquisite East Coast style of the social elite during the Jazz Age captured the imagination of a society living through tough times. | Costume designer Theoni Aldredge won an Oscar four decades ago for her work with the then little-known designer Ralph Lauren, creating a much-admired wardrobe for Redford as the elegant millionaire. Despite middling reviews, the 1974 film was a financial success. A second Oscar was awarded for best music while the exquisite East Coast style of the social elite during the Jazz Age captured the imagination of a society living through tough times. |
| "I remember the tough three-day week that Britain was enduring when the glorious Gatsby came out in the 70s," says Mark Oliver, head of decorative arts at Bonham's Auctioneers. "It was the perfect escapist fantasy, full of all that Art Deco glamour and larger-than-life social whirl. There are similarities today in that we are in a depressed economic climate and looking for a style to lift us out of the gloom. We have several big Jazz Age auctions around the film's release which will include ceramics, Lalique glassware, and furnishings of the kind you'd see in Jay Gatsby's home." | "I remember the tough three-day week that Britain was enduring when the glorious Gatsby came out in the 70s," says Mark Oliver, head of decorative arts at Bonham's Auctioneers. "It was the perfect escapist fantasy, full of all that Art Deco glamour and larger-than-life social whirl. There are similarities today in that we are in a depressed economic climate and looking for a style to lift us out of the gloom. We have several big Jazz Age auctions around the film's release which will include ceramics, Lalique glassware, and furnishings of the kind you'd see in Jay Gatsby's home." |
| For those with a Gatsbyesque budget, Oliver says there is a lot of excitement around a bronze and ivory study of the dancing girl Almeria by Demetre Chiparus – estimated to fetch between £200,000-£300,000 at a Jazz Age sale on 19 June. "I have rarely seen such a fine realisation of the Art Deco style that so typified the affluent world of The Great Gatsby," he says. | For those with a Gatsbyesque budget, Oliver says there is a lot of excitement around a bronze and ivory study of the dancing girl Almeria by Demetre Chiparus – estimated to fetch between £200,000-£300,000 at a Jazz Age sale on 19 June. "I have rarely seen such a fine realisation of the Art Deco style that so typified the affluent world of The Great Gatsby," he says. |
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