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| China's Nepalese friendship road leads to the heart of India's market | China's Nepalese friendship road leads to the heart of India's market |
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| The Araniko highway, which connects Kathmandu to Nepal's border with China, is more a narrow strip of tarmac or beaten earth snaking its way for 115km between ravines and peaks. It would be deadly were it not for the extraordinary dexterity of the bus and lorry drivers who negotiate its bends, working some sort of permanent miracle. The view is breathtaking, if you dare take your eyes off the road. | The Araniko highway, which connects Kathmandu to Nepal's border with China, is more a narrow strip of tarmac or beaten earth snaking its way for 115km between ravines and peaks. It would be deadly were it not for the extraordinary dexterity of the bus and lorry drivers who negotiate its bends, working some sort of permanent miracle. The view is breathtaking, if you dare take your eyes off the road. |
| But in Khadichaur no one complains about the highway traffic thundering past. A few years ago this small town, on the banks of the Sun Koshi river, became known as Chinatown. Here you can find all the goods its powerful neighbour manufactures so cheaply: phones, clothes, shoes, televisions, soft toys and such. | But in Khadichaur no one complains about the highway traffic thundering past. A few years ago this small town, on the banks of the Sun Koshi river, became known as Chinatown. Here you can find all the goods its powerful neighbour manufactures so cheaply: phones, clothes, shoes, televisions, soft toys and such. |
| Bhairav Chhetri runs a shop selling blankets, all "Made in China". "Business is OK but the competition is increasingly stiff," he says. "Five years ago there were only about 20 shops here. Now there are nearly 100." Other shopping towns are appearing along the highway. | Bhairav Chhetri runs a shop selling blankets, all "Made in China". "Business is OK but the competition is increasingly stiff," he says. "Five years ago there were only about 20 shops here. Now there are nearly 100." Other shopping towns are appearing along the highway. |
| Chhetri makes regular trips across the border to stock up. He travels the 35km as far as Kodari, on the border, by coach or lorry, then walks several kilometres through no man's land, and crosses the narrow Friendship bridge to enter Zhangmu in Tibet. He buys from wholesalers, all of them Han Chinese. "All the dealing is done in Nepalese," the shopkeeper explains. "They've learned the language. They're smart." He hires Nepalese porters to carry his goods back to Kodari, where he pays about 15% of the purchase value in duty. | Chhetri makes regular trips across the border to stock up. He travels the 35km as far as Kodari, on the border, by coach or lorry, then walks several kilometres through no man's land, and crosses the narrow Friendship bridge to enter Zhangmu in Tibet. He buys from wholesalers, all of them Han Chinese. "All the dealing is done in Nepalese," the shopkeeper explains. "They've learned the language. They're smart." He hires Nepalese porters to carry his goods back to Kodari, where he pays about 15% of the purchase value in duty. |
| Chhetri has never been any further along Highway 318, which leads to Lhassa and ultimately to Shanghai, more than 5,000km further east. This road has become the main route for the spread of Chinese influence into Tibet and beyond. | Chhetri has never been any further along Highway 318, which leads to Lhassa and ultimately to Shanghai, more than 5,000km further east. This road has become the main route for the spread of Chinese influence into Tibet and beyond. |
| Chinese goods are on sale in Kathmandu and other places in Nepal. But not all the lorries are destined for Nepal: some carry their wares on into India. The Araniko highway, regularly blocked by monsoon landslides, has thus become an improbable vector for globalisation, bearing almost $200m worth of goods a year. | Chinese goods are on sale in Kathmandu and other places in Nepal. But not all the lorries are destined for Nepal: some carry their wares on into India. The Araniko highway, regularly blocked by monsoon landslides, has thus become an improbable vector for globalisation, bearing almost $200m worth of goods a year. |
| The highway is also testimony to Beijing's methodical conquest of new territory. The road was built in the 1960s, thanks to Chinese funds, replacing a track barely wide enough for two yaks to pass. Now China is planning to widen the road. At the end of 2012 the former Chinese ambassador in Nepal, Yang Houlan, officially opened a huge container depot outside Kodari. A larger bridge will be built alongside the existing one, to allow lorries to cross. | The highway is also testimony to Beijing's methodical conquest of new territory. The road was built in the 1960s, thanks to Chinese funds, replacing a track barely wide enough for two yaks to pass. Now China is planning to widen the road. At the end of 2012 the former Chinese ambassador in Nepal, Yang Houlan, officially opened a huge container depot outside Kodari. A larger bridge will be built alongside the existing one, to allow lorries to cross. |
| Kodari is still the only legal point of entry between China and Nepal, two countries with a common border stretching for 1,400km. But other routes will be cut through the Himalayas. A 17km stretch of mule track between Gyirong in Tibet and Syapru Besi, across the border, is being turned into a proper road, at a cost of $20m. China also plans to extend the railway line from Lhassa to Shigatse, Tibet's second-largest city, as far as Kathmandu, and to build a new airport at Pokhara, Nepal, opening the way for visitors and goods. | Kodari is still the only legal point of entry between China and Nepal, two countries with a common border stretching for 1,400km. But other routes will be cut through the Himalayas. A 17km stretch of mule track between Gyirong in Tibet and Syapru Besi, across the border, is being turned into a proper road, at a cost of $20m. China also plans to extend the railway line from Lhassa to Shigatse, Tibet's second-largest city, as far as Kathmandu, and to build a new airport at Pokhara, Nepal, opening the way for visitors and goods. |
| China is investing billions in Nepal, one of the world's poorest countries and traditionally part of India's sphere of influence. It is building infrastructure for transport, telecommunications and hydroelectric power. Yang set out Beijing's intentions in an interview published by the Nepalese daily Republica last December, explaining that in economic terms Nepal was a corridor connecting China to south Asia. Or in other words a way into India and its huge market. | China is investing billions in Nepal, one of the world's poorest countries and traditionally part of India's sphere of influence. It is building infrastructure for transport, telecommunications and hydroelectric power. Yang set out Beijing's intentions in an interview published by the Nepalese daily Republica last December, explaining that in economic terms Nepal was a corridor connecting China to south Asia. Or in other words a way into India and its huge market. |
| The two giants are on chilly terms and their long common border, a subject of constant dispute, is closed and militarised. Yet the volume of trade is soaring, reaching $60bn in 2010, with the balance largely in China's favour. Beijing has invested in the port at Kolkata, and now it is buying overland access through the Himalayas. | The two giants are on chilly terms and their long common border, a subject of constant dispute, is closed and militarised. Yet the volume of trade is soaring, reaching $60bn in 2010, with the balance largely in China's favour. Beijing has invested in the port at Kolkata, and now it is buying overland access through the Himalayas. |
| "Nepal will be a friendship bridge between China and India," said the Maoist prime minister of Nepal, Baburam Bhattarai, who was ousted in March. Delhi is afraid it will be more of a Trojan horse, concerned at the prospect of a massive influx of Chinese goods, served by the free-trade agreement linking the two countries. | "Nepal will be a friendship bridge between China and India," said the Maoist prime minister of Nepal, Baburam Bhattarai, who was ousted in March. Delhi is afraid it will be more of a Trojan horse, concerned at the prospect of a massive influx of Chinese goods, served by the free-trade agreement linking the two countries. |
| In exchange for its largesse, Beijing has demanded that Nepal recognise the annexation of Tibet and repression of political opposition there. The joint statement issued during a brief visit to Kathmandu in January 2012 by the then prime minister Wen Jiabao, the first in 10 years, was perfectly clear on this point: "Both Taiwan and Tibet are integral parts of the Chinese territory. The Nepalese side firmly supports the efforts made by the Chinese side to uphold state sovereignty, national unity and territorial integrity, and does not allow any forces to use Nepalese territory for any anti-China or separatist activities." | In exchange for its largesse, Beijing has demanded that Nepal recognise the annexation of Tibet and repression of political opposition there. The joint statement issued during a brief visit to Kathmandu in January 2012 by the then prime minister Wen Jiabao, the first in 10 years, was perfectly clear on this point: "Both Taiwan and Tibet are integral parts of the Chinese territory. The Nepalese side firmly supports the efforts made by the Chinese side to uphold state sovereignty, national unity and territorial integrity, and does not allow any forces to use Nepalese territory for any anti-China or separatist activities." |
| Restrictions have since been placed on campaigning by the 20,000 Tibetans exiled in Nepal. On 10 March a demonstration to mark the anniversary of the 1959 uprising was banned. Any "anti-Chinese activity" is punished, despite the lack of any firm legal basis. Unfortunately Tibetan monks burning themselves to death will make little difference to the balance of power. | Restrictions have since been placed on campaigning by the 20,000 Tibetans exiled in Nepal. On 10 March a demonstration to mark the anniversary of the 1959 uprising was banned. Any "anti-Chinese activity" is punished, despite the lack of any firm legal basis. Unfortunately Tibetan monks burning themselves to death will make little difference to the balance of power. |
| • This article appeared in Guardian Weekly, which incorporates material from Le Monde | • This article appeared in Guardian Weekly, which incorporates material from Le Monde |
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