By Denise Winterman BBC News Magazine More restaurants are opening than ever before, with top chefs granted star status. But it's hard work, and even harder to make money. So why do so many people try?
By Denise Winterman BBC News Magazine More restaurants are opening than ever before, with top chefs granted star status. But it's hard work, and even harder to make money. So why do so many people try?
"It looks like a cool lifestyle, but the restaurant business is ruthless, stressful, demanding and all-consuming. To be a success you have to give up so much - I know I have."
"It looks like a cool lifestyle, but the restaurant business is ruthless, stressful, demanding and all-consuming. To be a success you have to give up so much - I know I have."
Not exactly the most enticing job description, but no amount of plain talking from the likes of Michelin-starred chef Raymond Blanc will put people off pursuing their dream of running a restaurant.
Not exactly the most enticing job description, but no amount of plain talking from the likes of Michelin-starred chef Raymond Blanc will put people off pursuing their dream of running a restaurant.
Blanc is self-taughtMore are opening than ever before, according to respected restaurant guide Harden's, which hails this as a "golden age of dining".
Raymond Blanc is self-taughtMore are opening than ever before, according to respected restaurant guide Harden's, which hails this as a "golden age of dining".
But the figures also reveal the harsh reality of the industry, with many establishments failing. In London alone, 158 new restaurants opened in the past year and 89 closed. So what makes so many people want to open a restaurant?
But the figures also reveal the harsh reality of the industry, with many establishments failing. In London alone, 158 new restaurants opened in the past year and 89 closed. So what makes so many people want to open a restaurant?
"Why not, it looks like a wonderful lifestyle, as if you are always cooking and entertaining your friends," says Blanc. "Food is the new rock and roll.
"Why not, it looks like a wonderful lifestyle, as if you are always cooking and entertaining your friends," says Blanc. "Food is the new rock and roll.
"But the reality is that after a hard, exhausting day cooking, you will probably then have to go and unblock a toilet because no-one else will do it."
"But the reality is that after a hard, exhausting day cooking, you will probably then have to go and unblock a toilet because no-one else will do it."
Live the dream
Live the dream
People are attracted to the glamour of the sector and seduced by how achievable running a restaurant seems, says Peter Harden, co-editor of Harden's food guides.
People are attracted to the glamour of the sector and seduced by how achievable running a restaurant seems, says Peter Harden, co-editor of Harden's food guides.
HARDEN'S TOP TIPS Get the location rightDon't waste money on fancy decorDon't mistake cash flow for profitBe prepared for hard graft as delegating doesn't work in this business "Knowing about good food and wine and having money to spend on eating out is like a universal calling card that you have arrived - it's a status symbol.
"Knowing about good food and wine and having money to spend on eating out is like a universal calling card that you have arrived - it's a status symbol.
"On paper running a restaurant looks straightforward, if you have the money. You don't need any particular professional skills or training. That's what makes a lot of people think they can do it."
HARDEN'S TOP TIPS Get the location rightDon't waste money on fancy decorDon't mistake cash flow for profitBe prepared for hard graft as delegating doesn't work in this business "On paper running a restaurant looks straightforward, if you have the money. You don't need any particular professional skills or training. That's what makes a lot of people think they can do it."
Just what it takes to be a success in the industry is the focus of Blanc's new BBC Two reality series, The Restaurant.
Just what it takes to be a success in the industry is the focus of Blanc's new BBC Two reality series, The Restaurant.
Nine couples with no experience of even cooking in a professional kitchen, let alone running one, will be given an empty restaurant each and told fill it with paying customers. Each week one couple will be given the boot.
Nine couples with no experience of even cooking in a professional kitchen, let alone running one, will be given an empty restaurant each and told fill it with paying customers. Each week one couple will be given the boot.
The winners will get to run a restaurant of their own, financed and overseen by Blanc himself. It's quite a prize and an about-face for a man who once swore he would never do reality TV. He once even called the public "morons" for watching such programmes.
The winners will get to run a restaurant of their own, financed and overseen by Blanc himself. It's quite a prize and an about-face for a man who once swore he would never do reality TV. He even called the public "morons" for watching such programmes.
"I know what I said but I am doing this show because these people could have been me," he says. "I started with nothing and I'm totally self-taught.
"I know what I said but I am doing this show because these people could have been me," he says. "I started with nothing and I'm totally self-taught.
"For my first restaurant I mortgaged my own house and put all my money into the business. It was an incredible success and won every accolade out there. "
Driven to perfection
Driven to perfection
"For my first restaurant I mortgaged my own house and put all my money into the business. It was an incredible success and won every accolade out there. "
Thousands applied to take part in the series, illustrating just how many people dream of emulating Blanc's career.
Thousands applied to take part in the series, illustrating just how many people dream of emulating Blanc's career.
Blanc will invest his own money in the winner's restaurantA large part of his success is down to his obsession with culinary perfection; he says mediocrity "scares" him. Straining tomatoes through muslin for 12 hours for a recipe is the norm in his kitchen, but even that is not enough to succeed.
Blanc will invest his own money in the winner's restaurantA large part of his success is down to his obsession with culinary perfection; he says mediocrity "scares" him. Straining tomatoes through muslin for 12 hours for a recipe is the norm in his kitchen, but even that is not enough to succeed.
"It's good to have a passion, to be idealistic but that has to be turned into commercial success," he says. "The business side of things should never be the bottom line, but you have to get the balance right.
"It's good to have a passion, to be idealistic but that has to be turned into commercial success," he says. "The business side of things should never be the bottom line, but you have to get the balance right.
"If it tips too far the other way, your restaurant becomes a vanity project. It's such a common mistake."
"If it tips too far the other way, your restaurant becomes a vanity project. It's such a common mistake."
Now a multi-millionaire and owner of the two-Michelin-starred restaurant Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, he obviously hasn't made too many mistakes during his career - but what was his worst?
Now a multi-millionaire and owner of the two-Michelin-starred restaurant Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons, he obviously hasn't made too many mistakes during his career - but what was his worst?
"Probably when I started Le Manoir, I was too idealistic. For three months I had no board of directors and wanted every decision to be taken by all the staff.
"Probably when I started Le Manoir, I was too idealistic. For three months I had no board of directors and wanted every decision to be taken by all the staff.
"It was a nightmare and took ages for anything to be decided. I got a bloody nose very quickly and changed things."
"It was a nightmare and took ages for anything to be decided. I got a bloody nose very quickly and changed things."
Regional cooking
Regional cooking
But, hard work aside, it's an exciting time to be part of the industry. A lot of countries are undergoing a food revolution and British restaurants and chefs are at the forefront, says Blanc.
But, hard work aside, it's an exciting time to be part of the industry. A lot of countries are undergoing a food revolution and British restaurants and chefs are at the forefront, says Blanc.
We spend more on eating out, and know more about food"Food became just a commodity and it was all about getting as much as you could, as cheaply as you could. There was no emphasis on quality and it was as if the seasons had ceased to exist.
We spend more on eating out, and know more about food"Food became just a commodity and it was all about getting as much as you could, as cheaply as you could. There was no emphasis on quality and it was as if the seasons had ceased to exist.
"Consumers are now more aware and responsible, more demanding. Along with chefs, they have reconnected with the food chain and are reinventing regionalism."
"Consumers are now more aware and responsible, more demanding. Along with chefs, they have reconnected with the food chain and are reinventing regionalism."
Peter Harden agrees the boom in the industry is largely fuelled by more knowledgeable consumers, who have developed more sophisticated tastes.
Peter Harden agrees the boom in the industry is largely fuelled by more knowledgeable consumers, who have developed more sophisticated tastes.
"Twenty years ago a Thai meal would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Now diners are comparing the quality with the food they had on holiday in Thailand last year. Many could even cook something similar at home with ingredients from Sainsbury's."
"Twenty years ago a Thai meal would be a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Now diners are comparing the quality with the food they had on holiday in Thailand last year. Many could even cook something similar at home with ingredients from Sainsbury's."
For those who dream of a chance to whip up a dish to impress Blanc, which mouth-watering creation should they place before him? White bean cappuccino with truffles, or sea bass in basil leaves with caviar sauce perhaps?
For those who dream of a chance to whip up a dish to impress Blanc, which mouth-watering creation should they place before him? White bean cappuccino with truffles, or sea bass in basil leaves with caviar sauce perhaps?
"Plum crumble," he says. Really?
"Plum crumble," he says. Really?
"Oh yes, plums are in season and delicious in a crumble. The English have known about crumble for a long time, but French have only just discovered it.
"Oh yes, plums are in season and delicious in a crumble. The English have known about crumble for a long time, but French have only just discovered it.
"It took a long time, but it was worth the wait. I think sticky toffee pudding will be their next discovery."
"It took a long time, but it was worth the wait. I think sticky toffee pudding will be their next discovery."
The Restaurant begins on Wednesday 29 August at 2000 BST on BBC Two.
The Restaurant begins on Wednesday 29 August at 2000 BST on BBC Two.
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