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| Taste of Iran: Lari kebab recipe | Taste of Iran: Lari kebab recipe |
| (8 days later) | |
| The Leaning Tower of Pisa is lit against the night sky, the square empty save for a couple walking hand in hand and a man with a dog by his side. In a top-floor apartment a few blocks away, Peyman Majidzadeh is putting the finishing touches on his favorite dish, Lari kebab, made on the stove instead of the grill and with chicken instead of lamb. It might be a stretch to call it Lari kebab, but that's what Peyman calls it and so will I. | The Leaning Tower of Pisa is lit against the night sky, the square empty save for a couple walking hand in hand and a man with a dog by his side. In a top-floor apartment a few blocks away, Peyman Majidzadeh is putting the finishing touches on his favorite dish, Lari kebab, made on the stove instead of the grill and with chicken instead of lamb. It might be a stretch to call it Lari kebab, but that's what Peyman calls it and so will I. |
| During the four years I lived in Iran, not only did I never eat Lari kebab, I had never even heard of Lar, the county seat of Larestan in Fars province. Four hundred kilometres from Shiraz, the province's best known city, it's not one of the more visited corners of Iran. | During the four years I lived in Iran, not only did I never eat Lari kebab, I had never even heard of Lar, the county seat of Larestan in Fars province. Four hundred kilometres from Shiraz, the province's best known city, it's not one of the more visited corners of Iran. |
| Larestan sits in the desert, close to the other Arab countries of the Persian Gulf. It has its own dialect, but it has no oil and little in the way of other mineral resources. It has no sites of particular interest to tourists or pilgrims. Very few Iranians from elsewhere in the country have ever been to Lar. Any who do go are likely to be surprised by the small city's wealth and the fact that it is served by an international airport and a six-lane highway. | Larestan sits in the desert, close to the other Arab countries of the Persian Gulf. It has its own dialect, but it has no oil and little in the way of other mineral resources. It has no sites of particular interest to tourists or pilgrims. Very few Iranians from elsewhere in the country have ever been to Lar. Any who do go are likely to be surprised by the small city's wealth and the fact that it is served by an international airport and a six-lane highway. |
| When the Iranian rial plunged during the Iran-Iraq War of the 1980s, many people in Lar became rich. With limited job opportunities at home, a number of residents had found work in neighbouring Persian Gulf countries, where they were paid in the local currency. When the once mighty Iranian rial became nearly worthless, those working abroad found themselves suddenly wealthy. It was as though they had won the lottery. Those whose work kept them in Iran found themselves just as suddenly poor, their salaries, pensions, and savings nearly worthless. | When the Iranian rial plunged during the Iran-Iraq War of the 1980s, many people in Lar became rich. With limited job opportunities at home, a number of residents had found work in neighbouring Persian Gulf countries, where they were paid in the local currency. When the once mighty Iranian rial became nearly worthless, those working abroad found themselves suddenly wealthy. It was as though they had won the lottery. Those whose work kept them in Iran found themselves just as suddenly poor, their salaries, pensions, and savings nearly worthless. |
| Peyman's family was one of those dependent on a domestic income. "My mom is a housewife and my dad worked in telecom as an engineer.... The fall of the rial came as quite a shock for my father with his Iranian salary." | Peyman's family was one of those dependent on a domestic income. "My mom is a housewife and my dad worked in telecom as an engineer.... The fall of the rial came as quite a shock for my father with his Iranian salary." |
| "The attitude that came with the wealth was disturbing," he says. "There are homes in Lar with 17 private bathrooms." Some of the new-found wealth went to building that international airport. Some, he adds, went to founding charities and to education. "We had computers and air conditioning in our school because of donations. It was working both ways.... The spirit of sharing and charity was and is very high." | "The attitude that came with the wealth was disturbing," he says. "There are homes in Lar with 17 private bathrooms." Some of the new-found wealth went to building that international airport. Some, he adds, went to founding charities and to education. "We had computers and air conditioning in our school because of donations. It was working both ways.... The spirit of sharing and charity was and is very high." |
| In Lar, Peyman and his brother attended a public school for the gifted. His classmates came to school in their own personal automobiles. "We were only in high school," Peyman tells me. "They didn't even have driver's licenses." | In Lar, Peyman and his brother attended a public school for the gifted. His classmates came to school in their own personal automobiles. "We were only in high school," Peyman tells me. "They didn't even have driver's licenses." |
| Meanwhile Peyman's family scrambled to come up with the money for school fees. His mother ended up selling some of her jewellery to ensure that he and his brother could attend. "In my culture when a woman sells her jewelry it's really drastic – it means she gives up a lot," Peyman explains. | Meanwhile Peyman's family scrambled to come up with the money for school fees. His mother ended up selling some of her jewellery to ensure that he and his brother could attend. "In my culture when a woman sells her jewelry it's really drastic – it means she gives up a lot," Peyman explains. |
| The Lari kebab Peyman makes is a surprise to me. It's so simple: tomatoes, black pepper, and chicken dominate the dish. Its straightforward, fresh flavours are what's unusual. Persian food is often a complex combination of herbs, with layered flavors that come together as a kind of perfume. This stew was sharper, almost matter-of-fact. | The Lari kebab Peyman makes is a surprise to me. It's so simple: tomatoes, black pepper, and chicken dominate the dish. Its straightforward, fresh flavours are what's unusual. Persian food is often a complex combination of herbs, with layered flavors that come together as a kind of perfume. This stew was sharper, almost matter-of-fact. |
| "It's normally made with lamb, but we made it with chicken," Peyman says. "Chicken is cheaper, and it doesn't need to marinate as long as lamb. With chicken, you put it in yogurt and six hours later, it's ready." | "It's normally made with lamb, but we made it with chicken," Peyman says. "Chicken is cheaper, and it doesn't need to marinate as long as lamb. With chicken, you put it in yogurt and six hours later, it's ready." |
| How did a dish made on the grill become a stew? | How did a dish made on the grill become a stew? |
| "Well, maybe because barbecuing was men's work," Peyman explains. "My mom would prepare everything, but when my dad was at work, she made it inside. When you make a barbecue, you make a lot of smell. Because our neighbours were poor, we would always make enough for them as well. We would never make this dish without sending some to the neighbours." | "Well, maybe because barbecuing was men's work," Peyman explains. "My mom would prepare everything, but when my dad was at work, she made it inside. When you make a barbecue, you make a lot of smell. Because our neighbours were poor, we would always make enough for them as well. We would never make this dish without sending some to the neighbours." |
| Lari kebab became the centrepiece of Peyman's family life. It was the one dish everyone helped with. "My mother would make this dish for me when I lived in Tehran. Normally you can't bring food with you on the plane, but the security at the airport would just say, 'Typical Lari.' They would check, but they didn't mess around. They let it through." | Lari kebab became the centrepiece of Peyman's family life. It was the one dish everyone helped with. "My mother would make this dish for me when I lived in Tehran. Normally you can't bring food with you on the plane, but the security at the airport would just say, 'Typical Lari.' They would check, but they didn't mess around. They let it through." |
| Now Peyman lives in Pisa, where he is pursuing a PhD. Far away from his family and their care, he has learned to make the dish for himself. There are just a few ingredients: chicken, yogurt, tomatoes, a potato, and onions. All of them are easy to find in Pisa's narrow streets. When we visit him, the dish is simmering on the stove. | Now Peyman lives in Pisa, where he is pursuing a PhD. Far away from his family and their care, he has learned to make the dish for himself. There are just a few ingredients: chicken, yogurt, tomatoes, a potato, and onions. All of them are easy to find in Pisa's narrow streets. When we visit him, the dish is simmering on the stove. |
| "Whenever I really feel homesick and miss my family, I think of this dish. The first time I made it was when you came to Pisa." | "Whenever I really feel homesick and miss my family, I think of this dish. The first time I made it was when you came to Pisa." |
| Despite its simplicity, the dish can be difficult to replicate. The yogurt needs to be thick, the tomatoes need to be tasty, and the chicken needs to be high quality. "I can't make it as well as you do," I tell Peyman. "I imagine yours is not as good as your mother's." | Despite its simplicity, the dish can be difficult to replicate. The yogurt needs to be thick, the tomatoes need to be tasty, and the chicken needs to be high quality. "I can't make it as well as you do," I tell Peyman. "I imagine yours is not as good as your mother's." |
| Peyman laughs and agrees with me. "I think the feeling of family is the missing ingredient. This was our Friday noon lunch. My mom's is always the best." | Peyman laughs and agrees with me. "I think the feeling of family is the missing ingredient. This was our Friday noon lunch. My mom's is always the best." |
| Ingredients (for four): | Ingredients (for four): |
| 1.5 kilos of boneless, skinless chicken thighs – the quality of the chicken makes a huge difference, it's best if you splurge a bit Greek yogurt (or labne for an even thicker yogurt) to cover 3 chopped onions (two in the marinade and another to cook with) 2 medium-large potatoes 4 average tomatoes – you can use canned, but make sure it's a good brand; not all canned tomatoes taste alike Tomato paste, a small amount mixed with hot water, to taste Lemon (optional) Salt Black pepper | 1.5 kilos of boneless, skinless chicken thighs – the quality of the chicken makes a huge difference, it's best if you splurge a bit Greek yogurt (or labne for an even thicker yogurt) to cover 3 chopped onions (two in the marinade and another to cook with) 2 medium-large potatoes 4 average tomatoes – you can use canned, but make sure it's a good brand; not all canned tomatoes taste alike Tomato paste, a small amount mixed with hot water, to taste Lemon (optional) Salt Black pepper |
| Preparation: | Preparation: |
| Mix the chicken with two chopped onions, salt, and lots of pepper. Add enough yogurt to coat the chicken. Let sit for at least six hours. Sauté the third onion in a small bit of olive oil. When the onion begins to get golden, add the chicken – Peyman adds the chicken straight from the yogurt mix without rinsing. Cook for a minute or two at medium heat, stirring a bit, and then add the potatoes and turn it down to simmer. Add the tomatoes and continue to simmer. After about 45 minutes, add the tomato paste mixed with hot water. Add it a tablespoon at a time, until it tastes right to you. In the last few minutes you can add the remaining marinade. Make sure the yogurt mix is at room temperature and add it in slowly to prevent curdling. Peyman cooks his stew for two hours, stirring every 15 minutes. Mine was good in one hour. You might need to add a bit of water. I didn't. You can add lemon juice at the end if you want. Taste it to see if it needs more salt or pepper. This is best served with saffron rice. | Mix the chicken with two chopped onions, salt, and lots of pepper. Add enough yogurt to coat the chicken. Let sit for at least six hours. Sauté the third onion in a small bit of olive oil. When the onion begins to get golden, add the chicken – Peyman adds the chicken straight from the yogurt mix without rinsing. Cook for a minute or two at medium heat, stirring a bit, and then add the potatoes and turn it down to simmer. Add the tomatoes and continue to simmer. After about 45 minutes, add the tomato paste mixed with hot water. Add it a tablespoon at a time, until it tastes right to you. In the last few minutes you can add the remaining marinade. Make sure the yogurt mix is at room temperature and add it in slowly to prevent curdling. Peyman cooks his stew for two hours, stirring every 15 minutes. Mine was good in one hour. You might need to add a bit of water. I didn't. You can add lemon juice at the end if you want. Taste it to see if it needs more salt or pepper. This is best served with saffron rice. |
| Najmieh Batmanglij has excellent instructions in her book Food for Life. | Najmieh Batmanglij has excellent instructions in her book Food for Life. |
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