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Struggling to revive theatre in Nigeria Struggling to revive theatre in Nigeria
(14 days later)
The musical Kakadu, about Nigeria's tumultuous history, is going down well in Lagos, but can it spark a revival in Nigeria's run-down theatres, asks Sarah Rundell.The musical Kakadu, about Nigeria's tumultuous history, is going down well in Lagos, but can it spark a revival in Nigeria's run-down theatres, asks Sarah Rundell.
Minutes before the performance starts, the 70-odd cast and crew of Kakadu, named after a famous night club in Lagos in the 1960s, join hands.Minutes before the performance starts, the 70-odd cast and crew of Kakadu, named after a famous night club in Lagos in the 1960s, join hands.
Nerves on edge, they line a long, dimly lit corridor before veteran Nigerian actress Tina Mba, a motherly figure on and off stage, leads a prayer for strength and courage during the three-hour performance.Nerves on edge, they line a long, dimly lit corridor before veteran Nigerian actress Tina Mba, a motherly figure on and off stage, leads a prayer for strength and courage during the three-hour performance.
It is a pre-show ritual that reveals just how close the troupe have grown in the gruelling months rehearsing for Nigeria's first contemporary musical and how so many of their hopes rest on its success.It is a pre-show ritual that reveals just how close the troupe have grown in the gruelling months rehearsing for Nigeria's first contemporary musical and how so many of their hopes rest on its success.
In a city with an estimated population of 12 million but no working theatre, Kakadu, The Musical promises the hint of a revival for Lagos's beleaguered arts scene.In a city with an estimated population of 12 million but no working theatre, Kakadu, The Musical promises the hint of a revival for Lagos's beleaguered arts scene.
When the show opened, it was standing room only in the 200-seat Recital Hall on Victoria Island, a well-to-do Lagos suburb.When the show opened, it was standing room only in the 200-seat Recital Hall on Victoria Island, a well-to-do Lagos suburb.
The story of a group of young, trendy Lagosians imbued with hope after Nigeria's independence from British rule, but whose optimism is shattered first when it plunges into civil war, and then falls prey to cycles of corruption, has captured people's imagination.The story of a group of young, trendy Lagosians imbued with hope after Nigeria's independence from British rule, but whose optimism is shattered first when it plunges into civil war, and then falls prey to cycles of corruption, has captured people's imagination.
And it is as timely now as it would have been back in the 1960s.And it is as timely now as it would have been back in the 1960s.
Kakadu opened in the week that President Goodluck Jonathan declared a state of emergency in three north-eastern states gripped by an Islamist-led insurgency.Kakadu opened in the week that President Goodluck Jonathan declared a state of emergency in three north-eastern states gripped by an Islamist-led insurgency.
The central character in the musical is Lugard de Rocha, the landlord of the popular Kakadu Bar, nicknamed Lord Lugard after the British governor-general of Nigeria responsible for amalgamating the north and south in 1914.The central character in the musical is Lugard de Rocha, the landlord of the popular Kakadu Bar, nicknamed Lord Lugard after the British governor-general of Nigeria responsible for amalgamating the north and south in 1914.
Lugard, played by 40-year-old Ben Ogbeiwi, is all largesse and swagger at first.Lugard, played by 40-year-old Ben Ogbeiwi, is all largesse and swagger at first.
But his nightclub and the hope it symbolises lies in tatters around him by the end, when he pleads with piercing poignancy in writer and director Uche Nwokedi's main score: "How do we build a nation?" But his nightclub and the hope it symbolises lies in tatters around him by the end, when he pleads with piercing poignancy in writer and producer Uche Nwokedi's main score: "How do we build a nation?"
'Telling our story''Telling our story'
Kakadu has been four years in the making and a labour of love for corporate lawyer Mr Nwokedi who dates his passion for musicals back to playing Joseph at school.Kakadu has been four years in the making and a labour of love for corporate lawyer Mr Nwokedi who dates his passion for musicals back to playing Joseph at school.
He has produced a few, small-scale productions but always dreamt of writing his own, finally putting pen to paper three years ago, finding the time in the early hours and in between court cases.He has produced a few, small-scale productions but always dreamt of writing his own, finally putting pen to paper three years ago, finding the time in the early hours and in between court cases.
"Some people play golf or get involved in politics but this is what refreshes my soul. Besides I was tired of shows being brought in," he says, referring to foreign musicals like Fela!, the Broadway hit about Nigeria's best known singer Fela Kuti."Some people play golf or get involved in politics but this is what refreshes my soul. Besides I was tired of shows being brought in," he says, referring to foreign musicals like Fela!, the Broadway hit about Nigeria's best known singer Fela Kuti.
"I think Kakadu speaks well of Nigeria and it tells our story our way.""I think Kakadu speaks well of Nigeria and it tells our story our way."
But the project has been fraught with challenge. None more so than Lagos's lack of theatres.But the project has been fraught with challenge. None more so than Lagos's lack of theatres.
A recital hall is the best venue on offer. There is no curtain and set changes are impossible with the one, small stage.A recital hall is the best venue on offer. There is no curtain and set changes are impossible with the one, small stage.
Space is so cramped that the orchestra and choir hunker underneath a bridge, the only prop, and the team have had to rig their own lights and bring in all the sound equipment.Space is so cramped that the orchestra and choir hunker underneath a bridge, the only prop, and the team have had to rig their own lights and bring in all the sound equipment.
"The only thing we didn't have to provide were the chairs," says Mr Nwokedi, mopping his brow as he watches an afternoon rehearsal without air conditioning, which is strictly rationed to actual performances because of its punitive cost in a city that relies on diesel generators for its electricity."The only thing we didn't have to provide were the chairs," says Mr Nwokedi, mopping his brow as he watches an afternoon rehearsal without air conditioning, which is strictly rationed to actual performances because of its punitive cost in a city that relies on diesel generators for its electricity.
The production has run into tens of thousands of dollars, shouldered by Mr Nwokedi and a few corporate sponsors, but also with "mattress money" from supportive family and friends.The production has run into tens of thousands of dollars, shouldered by Mr Nwokedi and a few corporate sponsors, but also with "mattress money" from supportive family and friends.
"No one takes my calls any more," he laughs."No one takes my calls any more," he laughs.
Yet, because Kakadu is so unusual, Mr Nwokedi has been able to pull together one of the most talented, creative teams in Lagos.Yet, because Kakadu is so unusual, Mr Nwokedi has been able to pull together one of the most talented, creative teams in Lagos.
The 20-odd songs, which include cover versions of 1960s hit Let's Do the Twist and Another Saturday Night as well as Onyeka Onwenu classics, are all spine-tinglingly good.The 20-odd songs, which include cover versions of 1960s hit Let's Do the Twist and Another Saturday Night as well as Onyeka Onwenu classics, are all spine-tinglingly good.
Dance routines choreographed by Abel Utuedor ignite the show and designer Ituen Basi is behind the colourful 1960s costumes and exquisitely elaborate hairdos.Dance routines choreographed by Abel Utuedor ignite the show and designer Ituen Basi is behind the colourful 1960s costumes and exquisitely elaborate hairdos.
Struggling with the crowdsStruggling with the crowds
"This kind of contemporary project is truly ground breaking and comes round so rarely I couldn't miss it," she enthuses."This kind of contemporary project is truly ground breaking and comes round so rarely I couldn't miss it," she enthuses.
Others have also leapt at the chance, like actress Ms Mba.Others have also leapt at the chance, like actress Ms Mba.
"People don't think we have actors in Nigeria. We will not be measured by Nollywood's standards," Ms Mba says, referring to Nigeria's film industry."People don't think we have actors in Nigeria. We will not be measured by Nollywood's standards," Ms Mba says, referring to Nigeria's film industry.
The show is a sell-out but few Lagosians buy tickets in advance.The show is a sell-out but few Lagosians buy tickets in advance.
"Nigerians are last minute.com," says Mr Nwokedi, pointing out that Lagos traffic, always worse in the rain, adds to the unpredictability."Nigerians are last minute.com," says Mr Nwokedi, pointing out that Lagos traffic, always worse in the rain, adds to the unpredictability.
It has left his staff, commandeered from his legal practice, struggling to accommodate an audience which one night included an unexpected party of school children with the most powerful politician in Lagos.It has left his staff, commandeered from his legal practice, struggling to accommodate an audience which one night included an unexpected party of school children with the most powerful politician in Lagos.
"The state governor couldn't say he was coming for security reasons - he brought his whole entourage," says Mr Nwokedi."The state governor couldn't say he was coming for security reasons - he brought his whole entourage," says Mr Nwokedi.
The cast perform without an interval because Nigerians tend to go home if there is one.The cast perform without an interval because Nigerians tend to go home if there is one.
Some of the performers, often balancing three or four jobs at a time, dropped out during the rehearsal period.Some of the performers, often balancing three or four jobs at a time, dropped out during the rehearsal period.
Exuberant members have also needed reining in.Exuberant members have also needed reining in.
"The dancers will introduce their own steps. You need the patience of Job," says Mr Nwokedi."The dancers will introduce their own steps. You need the patience of Job," says Mr Nwokedi.
Kakadu will not revive theatre in Lagos overnight.Kakadu will not revive theatre in Lagos overnight.
The National Arts Theatre, an iconic dome-shaped building built in the 1970s, sits neglected beneath a traffic-choked flyover.The National Arts Theatre, an iconic dome-shaped building built in the 1970s, sits neglected beneath a traffic-choked flyover.
Weeds have grown up in the surrounding gardens and even in the bright afternoon a sense of menace lurks in its emptiness.Weeds have grown up in the surrounding gardens and even in the bright afternoon a sense of menace lurks in its emptiness.
The jewel in its crown is three deserted flights up, an enormous, revolving stage surrounded by 1,000 red velvet seats circling up to the Gods and lights galore, covered in dust and battened down, like the home of Miss Haversham in Charles Dickens' novel, Great Expectations.The jewel in its crown is three deserted flights up, an enormous, revolving stage surrounded by 1,000 red velvet seats circling up to the Gods and lights galore, covered in dust and battened down, like the home of Miss Haversham in Charles Dickens' novel, Great Expectations.
There has not been a production here for 20 years.There has not been a production here for 20 years.
Although the government drip-feeds money to fund minor renovations, getting the theatre back on its feet feels a long way off.Although the government drip-feeds money to fund minor renovations, getting the theatre back on its feet feels a long way off.
A public campaign thwarted its sell-off five years ago but you cannot help thinking that in Nigeria, it could fare better in private hands.A public campaign thwarted its sell-off five years ago but you cannot help thinking that in Nigeria, it could fare better in private hands.
Bolanle Austen-Peters' cultural centre Terra Kulture, down from the beach front on Victoria Island, hosts small productions every Sunday.Bolanle Austen-Peters' cultural centre Terra Kulture, down from the beach front on Victoria Island, hosts small productions every Sunday.
"I run this like the government doesn't exist. Everything that happens here is in spite of them," she says, speaking in-between fielding calls from her son, at boarding school in the UK."I run this like the government doesn't exist. Everything that happens here is in spite of them," she says, speaking in-between fielding calls from her son, at boarding school in the UK.
The irony that oil giant Agip sponsors the recital hall, Kakadu's venue, is not lost on Williams Ekpo, Kakadu's assistant director and one of the placard wielders outside the National Arts Theatre during the protests.The irony that oil giant Agip sponsors the recital hall, Kakadu's venue, is not lost on Williams Ekpo, Kakadu's assistant director and one of the placard wielders outside the National Arts Theatre during the protests.
But he still believes the theatre should remain in government hands.But he still believes the theatre should remain in government hands.
"At least this way we know it belongs to us," he says."At least this way we know it belongs to us," he says.
The rapturous applause that greets Mr Nwokedi, called up on stage by his cast at the end of every show, reflects the demand for culture and entertainment in a city starved of both, and his powerful narrative chimes with Nigerians yearning for peace and unity.The rapturous applause that greets Mr Nwokedi, called up on stage by his cast at the end of every show, reflects the demand for culture and entertainment in a city starved of both, and his powerful narrative chimes with Nigerians yearning for peace and unity.
Mr Nwokedi is planning to take his musical to a wider audience, in Nigeria and beyond.Mr Nwokedi is planning to take his musical to a wider audience, in Nigeria and beyond.
"I think it is good enough to travel. I want to take it to London," he says."I think it is good enough to travel. I want to take it to London," he says.
Now, that would be a first.Now, that would be a first.