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| Croatia: meet the new EU neighbours | Croatia: meet the new EU neighbours |
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| Idemo, Hrvatska! Let's go, Croatia! The country's image is being recast by travel writers dazzled by the Adriatic and charmed by the mitteleuropa-meets-the-Balkans cultural diversity of its cities. And by young visitors with no recollection of the early 1990s – the domovinski rat, or homelands war of 1991-1995 – who have spread the word about Croatia as a Mediterranean country with an appetite for good food, good wine and plenty of opportunities to party. An accession party, perhaps? Not exactly. Though there were concerts and fireworks across the country on Sunday night, most were happy to settle for raising a glass of prošek or rakija (Croatian dessert wine/grappa) in a toast that was more in hope than optimism. | Idemo, Hrvatska! Let's go, Croatia! The country's image is being recast by travel writers dazzled by the Adriatic and charmed by the mitteleuropa-meets-the-Balkans cultural diversity of its cities. And by young visitors with no recollection of the early 1990s – the domovinski rat, or homelands war of 1991-1995 – who have spread the word about Croatia as a Mediterranean country with an appetite for good food, good wine and plenty of opportunities to party. An accession party, perhaps? Not exactly. Though there were concerts and fireworks across the country on Sunday night, most were happy to settle for raising a glass of prošek or rakija (Croatian dessert wine/grappa) in a toast that was more in hope than optimism. |
| As Lela Vujanic, who works for the Ministry of Culture, told me with a cheeky smile: "Accession is July 1. First we'll go to the coast for our holidays. Then we'll come back in September and riot." | As Lela Vujanic, who works for the Ministry of Culture, told me with a cheeky smile: "Accession is July 1. First we'll go to the coast for our holidays. Then we'll come back in September and riot." |
| In the meantime, Croatia has been cleaning up its act. Last November, former prime minister Ivo Sanader was sentenced to 10 years for corruption. And though there's a nationwide campaign by the conservative NGO group, In the Name of the Family (backed by the catholic church), calling for a referendum to outlaw same-sex marriages, there is a new sense of solidarity among Croatia's centre-left majority, making the referendum feel like the valedictory gesture of a somewhat antiquated right wing. | In the meantime, Croatia has been cleaning up its act. Last November, former prime minister Ivo Sanader was sentenced to 10 years for corruption. And though there's a nationwide campaign by the conservative NGO group, In the Name of the Family (backed by the catholic church), calling for a referendum to outlaw same-sex marriages, there is a new sense of solidarity among Croatia's centre-left majority, making the referendum feel like the valedictory gesture of a somewhat antiquated right wing. |
| That said, the country's kukuriku (Croatian onomatopoeia for "cock-a-doodle-do") centre-left coalition government is – like most coalitions – a little muddled at the moment, according to Danko Radaljac, a columnist for the Novi List newspaper. "It seems they were pretty much unprepared for taking over." Yet he is all for accession. | That said, the country's kukuriku (Croatian onomatopoeia for "cock-a-doodle-do") centre-left coalition government is – like most coalitions – a little muddled at the moment, according to Danko Radaljac, a columnist for the Novi List newspaper. "It seems they were pretty much unprepared for taking over." Yet he is all for accession. |
| "If we stayed out of the EU, we would be back in the Balkans," he said. "My country in 2013 is in a much better condition than in 2002, when the accession process started. The justice system is much better, human rights are on a much higher level, and the protection of consumer rights just didn't exist 11 years ago. Sure, we have our eurosceptics, as all countries do, and they are very loud, but the majority of people are pro-EU, because there are many more benefits than disadvantages." | "If we stayed out of the EU, we would be back in the Balkans," he said. "My country in 2013 is in a much better condition than in 2002, when the accession process started. The justice system is much better, human rights are on a much higher level, and the protection of consumer rights just didn't exist 11 years ago. Sure, we have our eurosceptics, as all countries do, and they are very loud, but the majority of people are pro-EU, because there are many more benefits than disadvantages." |
| Unemployment is currently 7.7% in Zagreb, and a staggering 21% in the rest of the country, whereas the average net monthly wage is 6,400 kuna (£731) in Zagreb, and 5,500 kuna (£628) elsewhere. Prices are high with VAT at 25%, and designer labels at UK prices – extraordinary considering the wage difference. | Unemployment is currently 7.7% in Zagreb, and a staggering 21% in the rest of the country, whereas the average net monthly wage is 6,400 kuna (£731) in Zagreb, and 5,500 kuna (£628) elsewhere. Prices are high with VAT at 25%, and designer labels at UK prices – extraordinary considering the wage difference. |
| In Rovinj, a lovely 14th-century Venetian city on the west coast of Istria, I met Mauro Massarotto, the founder of successful Croatian company, Sheriff&Cherry. Their main exports are Startas, white trainers in a hand-stitched 1970s Yugo style, and hipster-friendly sunglasses. Significantly, Massarotto took on ailing factories in both his hometown and in war-scarred Vukovar. | In Rovinj, a lovely 14th-century Venetian city on the west coast of Istria, I met Mauro Massarotto, the founder of successful Croatian company, Sheriff&Cherry. Their main exports are Startas, white trainers in a hand-stitched 1970s Yugo style, and hipster-friendly sunglasses. Significantly, Massarotto took on ailing factories in both his hometown and in war-scarred Vukovar. |
| During a brief tour of Rovinj, he pointed out the ugly new roof over the traditional market – "It's a bus-station roof!" – and the supermarket sullying the entrance of an old cinema. He criticised the uninspired designs of most local government planning, and complained they always choose the cheapest tender. These are problems I have heard of throughout the country: the in-fighting between local government and powerful magnates, the poor communication between the regions and Zagreb resulting in tribalism and nepotism, the excessive bureaucracy, and the lack of support for creative spirits. | During a brief tour of Rovinj, he pointed out the ugly new roof over the traditional market – "It's a bus-station roof!" – and the supermarket sullying the entrance of an old cinema. He criticised the uninspired designs of most local government planning, and complained they always choose the cheapest tender. These are problems I have heard of throughout the country: the in-fighting between local government and powerful magnates, the poor communication between the regions and Zagreb resulting in tribalism and nepotism, the excessive bureaucracy, and the lack of support for creative spirits. |
| Ivana is processing EU funding applications in Croatia. She told me that her country has not yet utilised the full amount available. Why? "A fear of paperwork, of taking responsibility. Also, the EU wants clean ownership of applicant properties whereas here, property ownership is complicated, and often shared. In our cities, I'd say only about 35% have 'clean documents'." | Ivana is processing EU funding applications in Croatia. She told me that her country has not yet utilised the full amount available. Why? "A fear of paperwork, of taking responsibility. Also, the EU wants clean ownership of applicant properties whereas here, property ownership is complicated, and often shared. In our cities, I'd say only about 35% have 'clean documents'." |
| Other applicants withdrew when they discovered they would have to pay for their projects up front, and only later would the EU reimburse them. | Other applicants withdrew when they discovered they would have to pay for their projects up front, and only later would the EU reimburse them. |
| Like the rest of Europe, Croatia's economy is in trouble, but with a population of only 4.4 million, that hardship is felt even more keenly. In sun-blessed Dalmatia, EU regulations will threaten traditional fishing methods, and there is a fear across Croatia that long-held production methods may be outlawed due to strictures coming from Brussels that fail to take into account time-tested local customs. | Like the rest of Europe, Croatia's economy is in trouble, but with a population of only 4.4 million, that hardship is felt even more keenly. In sun-blessed Dalmatia, EU regulations will threaten traditional fishing methods, and there is a fear across Croatia that long-held production methods may be outlawed due to strictures coming from Brussels that fail to take into account time-tested local customs. |
| Or communities. In Dubrovnik, the indigenous old-town population of 4,000 has dropped to 700 as foreigners buy up flats. During the summer, cruisers disgorge 15,000 passengers a day to cram along the polished white-stone main street, Stradun, while a controversial new golf course (for the world's business tycoons) will occupy a site 20 times the size of the old town. Ordinary Croatians are resentful that they cannot afford to visit. | |
| Aside from Dubrovnik – "an oasis of capitalism even during socialism" as one businessman told me – the abundant beauty of coastal Croatia ensures a healthy income from June to September (with Brits the fastest growing group) and then heads into hibernation. Many locals flock back to Zagreb for the winter. There's a hope that EU membership will engender year-round tourism, not to mention radically increased investment across the country. | Aside from Dubrovnik – "an oasis of capitalism even during socialism" as one businessman told me – the abundant beauty of coastal Croatia ensures a healthy income from June to September (with Brits the fastest growing group) and then heads into hibernation. Many locals flock back to Zagreb for the winter. There's a hope that EU membership will engender year-round tourism, not to mention radically increased investment across the country. |
| However, with economics having failed to unite the continent, there is a growing recognition that culture is the best way to help re-define concept Europe. Contemporary Croatian literature, in particular, is fast gaining recognition. Josip Novakovich was recently shortlisted for the Man Booker international prize, as was Daša Drndić for the Independent foreign fiction prize. Then there's Robert Perišić, Slavenka Drakulić, and Zoran Ferić. | However, with economics having failed to unite the continent, there is a growing recognition that culture is the best way to help re-define concept Europe. Contemporary Croatian literature, in particular, is fast gaining recognition. Josip Novakovich was recently shortlisted for the Man Booker international prize, as was Daša Drndić for the Independent foreign fiction prize. Then there's Robert Perišić, Slavenka Drakulić, and Zoran Ferić. |
| Zagreb is crammed with cultural sites, including the impressive new Museum of Contemporary Art, and in spring and autumn the city is alive with weekly festivals such as the Subversive film festival (this year speakers included Oliver Stone and Slavoj Žižek). | Zagreb is crammed with cultural sites, including the impressive new Museum of Contemporary Art, and in spring and autumn the city is alive with weekly festivals such as the Subversive film festival (this year speakers included Oliver Stone and Slavoj Žižek). |
| As usual with new accession countries, though, won't some be tempted to leave? | As usual with new accession countries, though, won't some be tempted to leave? |
| "Should I stay or should I go? is now the most frequent question among those under 40," Lela Vujanic told me. "For eastern Europeans who have lived both systems, the problem is there is no longer a dream place to run to." | "Should I stay or should I go? is now the most frequent question among those under 40," Lela Vujanic told me. "For eastern Europeans who have lived both systems, the problem is there is no longer a dream place to run to." |
| This is an important point. The EU is certainly not what it was 10 years ago; there are no longer any safe havens. I lived in Poland before and during their accession, and I watched as its cities were transformed by infrastructure projects, while many Poles fled to the UK. Now thriving, Poland was lucky: they got in before the recession. The outlook is not nearly so auspicious for new member states. | This is an important point. The EU is certainly not what it was 10 years ago; there are no longer any safe havens. I lived in Poland before and during their accession, and I watched as its cities were transformed by infrastructure projects, while many Poles fled to the UK. Now thriving, Poland was lucky: they got in before the recession. The outlook is not nearly so auspicious for new member states. |
| "We survived the war," added Lela, "but now life has become hard again." | "We survived the war," added Lela, "but now life has become hard again." |
| Rijeka – known as Vrata Jadrana, the Gateway to the Adriatic – was once a major port under the Austro-Hungarian Empire (the self-propelled torpedo was invented there), and remained an important industrial centre subsidised by the Yugoslav government. When that came to an end, the industries started collapsing, leaving high unemployment and a growing despair. Walking the city with Tea Tulic, a 32-year-old novelist, we saw an elderly man going through the bins. "That would never have happened in the 80s," she said. | Rijeka – known as Vrata Jadrana, the Gateway to the Adriatic – was once a major port under the Austro-Hungarian Empire (the self-propelled torpedo was invented there), and remained an important industrial centre subsidised by the Yugoslav government. When that came to an end, the industries started collapsing, leaving high unemployment and a growing despair. Walking the city with Tea Tulic, a 32-year-old novelist, we saw an elderly man going through the bins. "That would never have happened in the 80s," she said. |
| In famously leftwing Rijeka, in particular, and perhaps in Croatia, in general, there is a deep nostalgia for the era of full employment, of bigger markets across the states of the former Yugoslavia, before the war, when all ethnicities lived side by side, and the ghost of Tito (he died in 1980) continued to unite the Balkans – though Rijeka is still well-known for its tolerance, and there is a sizeable Serb population. | In famously leftwing Rijeka, in particular, and perhaps in Croatia, in general, there is a deep nostalgia for the era of full employment, of bigger markets across the states of the former Yugoslavia, before the war, when all ethnicities lived side by side, and the ghost of Tito (he died in 1980) continued to unite the Balkans – though Rijeka is still well-known for its tolerance, and there is a sizeable Serb population. |
| Like Rijeka, Istria is part of "red Croatia" but this time not just because of its political persuasion, but because of its fertile red soil. Inland Istria is all rolling green landscapes, vineyards and olive groves, forests and truffle-rich plains, not to mention the exquisite medieval hilltop towns of Groznjan and Motovun, the latter well known for its film festival. Because of its proximity to the Italian and Slovenian borders, the region has a decidedly European outlook. | Like Rijeka, Istria is part of "red Croatia" but this time not just because of its political persuasion, but because of its fertile red soil. Inland Istria is all rolling green landscapes, vineyards and olive groves, forests and truffle-rich plains, not to mention the exquisite medieval hilltop towns of Groznjan and Motovun, the latter well known for its film festival. Because of its proximity to the Italian and Slovenian borders, the region has a decidedly European outlook. |
| Luciano Visintin is the owner of the Veralda vineyards in Brtonigla. | Luciano Visintin is the owner of the Veralda vineyards in Brtonigla. |
| "Istria is not a region, it's a community," he corrected me. "There is no competition. I don't say: oh, I have 20 hectares more than you." He hopes EU membership will widen his market. "The future is in our indigenous grape," he said, with conviction, before uncorking a bottle of his new rosé brut champagne. | "Istria is not a region, it's a community," he corrected me. "There is no competition. I don't say: oh, I have 20 hectares more than you." He hopes EU membership will widen his market. "The future is in our indigenous grape," he said, with conviction, before uncorking a bottle of his new rosé brut champagne. |
| Luciano explained how four generations of his family have been born in the same house, though each under a different regime. "My grandfather in 1915 under the Austro-Hungarian empire, my father in 1942 under the Italians, myself in 1968 in the former Yugoslavia, and my son in 1998 in the Independent Republic of Croatia. And we didn't even move!" he laughed. | Luciano explained how four generations of his family have been born in the same house, though each under a different regime. "My grandfather in 1915 under the Austro-Hungarian empire, my father in 1942 under the Italians, myself in 1968 in the former Yugoslavia, and my son in 1998 in the Independent Republic of Croatia. And we didn't even move!" he laughed. |
| "You only had to change the flag outside the window," I said. | "You only had to change the flag outside the window," I said. |
| "No!" he laughed again. "We never put up a flag. You never know who might be looking!" | "No!" he laughed again. "We never put up a flag. You never know who might be looking!" |
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