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Fashion Rules: Kensington Palace exhibition shows off the royal wardrobe Fashion Rules: Kensington Palace exhibition shows off the royal wardrobe
(3 months later)
If the Duchess of Cambridge feels the pressure to negotiate the line between looking fashionable and suitably royal in the coming weeks, she could seek comfort in an exhibition that opens at Kensington Palace on Thursday. Fashion Rules – installed for the next two years metres away from the apartment being renovated for the Cambridges – aims to show how three other women have reflected the trends of the day within the often stifling framework of a royal wardrobe.If the Duchess of Cambridge feels the pressure to negotiate the line between looking fashionable and suitably royal in the coming weeks, she could seek comfort in an exhibition that opens at Kensington Palace on Thursday. Fashion Rules – installed for the next two years metres away from the apartment being renovated for the Cambridges – aims to show how three other women have reflected the trends of the day within the often stifling framework of a royal wardrobe.
"It's long been the case that royal women have been scrutinised for what they wore," says curator Cassie Davies-Strodder, who downplayed the significance of the timing of the show, saying it had been planned well before the likely moving-in date of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge became known."It's long been the case that royal women have been scrutinised for what they wore," says curator Cassie Davies-Strodder, who downplayed the significance of the timing of the show, saying it had been planned well before the likely moving-in date of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge became known.
Davies-Strodder's aim is to celebrate the clothes the Queen, Princess Margaret and Princess Diana wore when the women were at their most fashionable. As a result the exhibition's 21 dresses include the haute 1950s wardrobe of the Queen, the 60s and 70s party-girl looks from Princess Margaret and some of Princess Diana's less-than-subtle 80s outfits.Davies-Strodder's aim is to celebrate the clothes the Queen, Princess Margaret and Princess Diana wore when the women were at their most fashionable. As a result the exhibition's 21 dresses include the haute 1950s wardrobe of the Queen, the 60s and 70s party-girl looks from Princess Margaret and some of Princess Diana's less-than-subtle 80s outfits.
Initially the show feels disjointed in style as a result, but scratch the surface and the stories behind the dresses unite the display cases. If the look of Fashion Rules is diverse, then the coherent theme is wardrobe diplomacy: the royal business of flattering hosts and avoiding media criticism.Initially the show feels disjointed in style as a result, but scratch the surface and the stories behind the dresses unite the display cases. If the look of Fashion Rules is diverse, then the coherent theme is wardrobe diplomacy: the royal business of flattering hosts and avoiding media criticism.
The Queen comes out best, perhaps because of the more classic cuts of the era; perhaps because the wardrobe shackles are tighter on the monarch than the princesses, guarding against fashion crimes. The five gowns displayed from the 50s reveal a petite frame and were a celebration of the leading lights of contemporary British fashion: Norman Hartnell and Hardy Amies. The dress that greets visitors – a beaded Hartnell number in ivory duchesse satin, with a nipped-in waist and five types of beading – is what Davies-Strodder describes as "an advertisement for the house of Hartnell".The Queen comes out best, perhaps because of the more classic cuts of the era; perhaps because the wardrobe shackles are tighter on the monarch than the princesses, guarding against fashion crimes. The five gowns displayed from the 50s reveal a petite frame and were a celebration of the leading lights of contemporary British fashion: Norman Hartnell and Hardy Amies. The dress that greets visitors – a beaded Hartnell number in ivory duchesse satin, with a nipped-in waist and five types of beading – is what Davies-Strodder describes as "an advertisement for the house of Hartnell".
The pale colour palette of the frocks reflects an enduring demand of royal dress – that it must stand out in a crowd. In the 50s gowns also needed to be easily visible on black-and-white film. One of the Queen's dresses in particular benefits stylistically from diplomatic concerns. An ivory gown with wide emerald straps was intended to mirror the colours of the flag of Pakistan where it was first worn. The minimal bodice was designed to allow an insignia to be pinned across her chest – the pinholes are still visible – and the result feels modern.The pale colour palette of the frocks reflects an enduring demand of royal dress – that it must stand out in a crowd. In the 50s gowns also needed to be easily visible on black-and-white film. One of the Queen's dresses in particular benefits stylistically from diplomatic concerns. An ivory gown with wide emerald straps was intended to mirror the colours of the flag of Pakistan where it was first worn. The minimal bodice was designed to allow an insignia to be pinned across her chest – the pinholes are still visible – and the result feels modern.
Arguably Diana's sparkles and shoulder-pads come off badly. Davies-Strodder jokingly calls the room "Dynasty Di" as it celebrates the 80s era of excessive bad taste. A blue dance dress by Jacques Azagury with its dropped waist, padded shoulders, oversized bow, sparkling embroidery and imitation velvet is a monstrous example of contemporary fashion. But it is also undeniably the show's guilty pleasure.Arguably Diana's sparkles and shoulder-pads come off badly. Davies-Strodder jokingly calls the room "Dynasty Di" as it celebrates the 80s era of excessive bad taste. A blue dance dress by Jacques Azagury with its dropped waist, padded shoulders, oversized bow, sparkling embroidery and imitation velvet is a monstrous example of contemporary fashion. But it is also undeniably the show's guilty pleasure.
Meanwhile an insipid one-shouldered Catherine Walker column dress suffers in impact because of its need to avoid the football colours of Brazil and Argentina – it was worn on a 1991 state visit to the former who had been beaten by the latter in an early round of the 1990 World Cup finals. Fashion interest in the Diana wardrobe is likely to intensify later this year with the release of the Diana movie starring Naomi Watts.Meanwhile an insipid one-shouldered Catherine Walker column dress suffers in impact because of its need to avoid the football colours of Brazil and Argentina – it was worn on a 1991 state visit to the former who had been beaten by the latter in an early round of the 1990 World Cup finals. Fashion interest in the Diana wardrobe is likely to intensify later this year with the release of the Diana movie starring Naomi Watts.
But Princess Margaret's dresses look like they had the most fun. The exhibition focuses on her collaboration with Marc Bohan, then creative director at Christian Dior. A Dior fur coat is reminiscent of Gwyneth Paltrow's character in The Royal Tenenbaums, while an Indian sari silk dress and matching turban worn to a party in 70s Mustique is a decadent highlight.But Princess Margaret's dresses look like they had the most fun. The exhibition focuses on her collaboration with Marc Bohan, then creative director at Christian Dior. A Dior fur coat is reminiscent of Gwyneth Paltrow's character in The Royal Tenenbaums, while an Indian sari silk dress and matching turban worn to a party in 70s Mustique is a decadent highlight.
One glamorous halter-neck party frock worn in 1951 to a film premier (the designer is not known) marks a departure from the demure style more usually adopted by royal women. It is more Marilyn Monroe than monarchy. Close inspection reveals a repair job under the armpits – presumably a result of perspiration on the dancefloor – and photographs from the time reveal the Queen's sister smoking a cigarette, adding to the frock's sense of risque.One glamorous halter-neck party frock worn in 1951 to a film premier (the designer is not known) marks a departure from the demure style more usually adopted by royal women. It is more Marilyn Monroe than monarchy. Close inspection reveals a repair job under the armpits – presumably a result of perspiration on the dancefloor – and photographs from the time reveal the Queen's sister smoking a cigarette, adding to the frock's sense of risque.
Fashion Rules opens at Kensington Palace on 4 JulyFashion Rules opens at Kensington Palace on 4 July
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