This article is from the source 'guardian' and was first published or seen on . It last changed over 40 days ago and won't be checked again for changes.
You can find the current article at its original source at http://www.guardian.co.uk/fashion/2013/jul/11/australian-fashion-new-stars
The article has changed 2 times. There is an RSS feed of changes available.
Previous version
1
Next version
| Version 0 | Version 1 |
|---|---|
| Can Australia's struggling fashion industry support its new stars? | Can Australia's struggling fashion industry support its new stars? |
| (2 months later) | |
| At its peak it boasted three boutiques and more than 70 wholesale accounts and David Jones concessions. But savvy and talented designer Kirrily Johnston last week put her fashion label into voluntary administration, citing rocketing rents, the problems of online retail and some costly manufacturing problems – further evidence of the tough environment facing the Australian fashion industry. | At its peak it boasted three boutiques and more than 70 wholesale accounts and David Jones concessions. But savvy and talented designer Kirrily Johnston last week put her fashion label into voluntary administration, citing rocketing rents, the problems of online retail and some costly manufacturing problems – further evidence of the tough environment facing the Australian fashion industry. |
| It was only last month that Lisa Ho decided to shut her empire due to escalating debts. And as a creative industry worth more than $10bn – as a comparison, that's almost a third of its UK equivalent (£21m) – some are beginning to wonder what more could be done to encourage investment in Australian fashion. | It was only last month that Lisa Ho decided to shut her empire due to escalating debts. And as a creative industry worth more than $10bn – as a comparison, that's almost a third of its UK equivalent (£21m) – some are beginning to wonder what more could be done to encourage investment in Australian fashion. |
| It's an argument that has been gaining ground even before Johnston and Ho shut up shop. Australia does not have a shortage of talent – but on the global stage, its fashion presence has been muted at best, diaphanous at worst. The problem then becomes entrenched: without an international reputation, it is unsurprising that so few Australian brands have successfully expanded into other territories, or Australian designers been handed the reins of a major, international fashion house. | It's an argument that has been gaining ground even before Johnston and Ho shut up shop. Australia does not have a shortage of talent – but on the global stage, its fashion presence has been muted at best, diaphanous at worst. The problem then becomes entrenched: without an international reputation, it is unsurprising that so few Australian brands have successfully expanded into other territories, or Australian designers been handed the reins of a major, international fashion house. |
| For Alison Veness-McGourty, former editor of Harper’s Bazaar and current editor of 10 magazine, the problem is clear-cut: a lack of support and much-needed funds. “The government needs to put more money into the fashion industry, it’s as simple as that,” she says. | For Alison Veness-McGourty, former editor of Harper’s Bazaar and current editor of 10 magazine, the problem is clear-cut: a lack of support and much-needed funds. “The government needs to put more money into the fashion industry, it’s as simple as that,” she says. |
| For designers to really be able to reach out internationally, she believes Australia needs to inaugurate a central governing body, such as the British Fashion Council (BFC) or the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). | For designers to really be able to reach out internationally, she believes Australia needs to inaugurate a central governing body, such as the British Fashion Council (BFC) or the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). |
| “The British Fashion Council is brilliant, they put so much money into getting people going. They have a great program with TopShop and other partners, that puts real commercial funding and mentorship into fashion,” says Veness-McGourty. | “The British Fashion Council is brilliant, they put so much money into getting people going. They have a great program with TopShop and other partners, that puts real commercial funding and mentorship into fashion,” says Veness-McGourty. |
| Both CFDA and BFC function as hubs for designers and the wider fashion business community – and each aims to promote its designers, foster new talent and move the whole industry forward. The Australian Fashion Council (AFC), however, seems more focused on matters such as raising professional standards than international development stage. | Both CFDA and BFC function as hubs for designers and the wider fashion business community – and each aims to promote its designers, foster new talent and move the whole industry forward. The Australian Fashion Council (AFC), however, seems more focused on matters such as raising professional standards than international development stage. |
| Michel Abeysekera, president of the Council of Textile and Fashion Industries of Australia (TFIA), of which the AFC is a division, says the Council is implementing changes that will challenge criticisms that fashion designers are lost in the body’s broad coverage of textiles, footwear, clothing manufacturing. | Michel Abeysekera, president of the Council of Textile and Fashion Industries of Australia (TFIA), of which the AFC is a division, says the Council is implementing changes that will challenge criticisms that fashion designers are lost in the body’s broad coverage of textiles, footwear, clothing manufacturing. |
| “[The TFIA] is not purely focused on fashion alone; however there [are] moves afoot to reinvigorate the Australian Fashion Council and elevate the fashion element to a higher level,” he says. | “[The TFIA] is not purely focused on fashion alone; however there [are] moves afoot to reinvigorate the Australian Fashion Council and elevate the fashion element to a higher level,” he says. |
| Key to the success of a reinvigorated AFC will be a commitment from industry and government to work more collaboratively on matters such as educating and motivating businesses through tough times argues AFC chairwoman and RMIT's deputy head of fashion and textiles, Karen Webster. | Key to the success of a reinvigorated AFC will be a commitment from industry and government to work more collaboratively on matters such as educating and motivating businesses through tough times argues AFC chairwoman and RMIT's deputy head of fashion and textiles, Karen Webster. |
| “As more designer labels struggle, they do not have an infrastructure and resources to deal with higher overheads such as increased rentals,” says Webster. “It only needs one thing to go wrong it can destroy a business.” | “As more designer labels struggle, they do not have an infrastructure and resources to deal with higher overheads such as increased rentals,” says Webster. “It only needs one thing to go wrong it can destroy a business.” |
| Funding will also prove crucial. The CFDA, for instance, is highly effective at raising funds through a variety of sources and offers a wide range of scholarships, initiatives with programme partners, and incubator funds. And while Australia also has commercially driven fashion awards, they don't really compare. While the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund awards one emerging designer a $US 300,000 cash injection, the Qantas Spirit of Youth Awards, has a combined cash and flights package of just $AU 10,000. | Funding will also prove crucial. The CFDA, for instance, is highly effective at raising funds through a variety of sources and offers a wide range of scholarships, initiatives with programme partners, and incubator funds. And while Australia also has commercially driven fashion awards, they don't really compare. While the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund awards one emerging designer a $US 300,000 cash injection, the Qantas Spirit of Youth Awards, has a combined cash and flights package of just $AU 10,000. |
| Of course it doesn't just come down to prize funds. High fashion labels struggle to expand (and indeed survive) without financial assistance from investors, backers or financial philanthropists. In the US the money often comes from Wall St or dot.com types with nothing more than cash and a keen eye for fashion. In Australia, it’s usually an investment from a fashion conglomerate – and the problem with the model of “big fashion buying little fashion” is that if retail struggles, it affects all parties. | Of course it doesn't just come down to prize funds. High fashion labels struggle to expand (and indeed survive) without financial assistance from investors, backers or financial philanthropists. In the US the money often comes from Wall St or dot.com types with nothing more than cash and a keen eye for fashion. In Australia, it’s usually an investment from a fashion conglomerate – and the problem with the model of “big fashion buying little fashion” is that if retail struggles, it affects all parties. |
| Last month it was revealed one of our brightest fashion stars, Dion Lee, had sold a percentage of his business to the Cue Clothing Co. In April, luxury goods powerhouse, LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, in the form of its Singapore subsidiary equity group, L Capital, purchased just over half of iconic Australian outfitter, RM Williams. | Last month it was revealed one of our brightest fashion stars, Dion Lee, had sold a percentage of his business to the Cue Clothing Co. In April, luxury goods powerhouse, LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, in the form of its Singapore subsidiary equity group, L Capital, purchased just over half of iconic Australian outfitter, RM Williams. |
| In 2011, Myer purchased 65% of Sass and Bide for a reported $42.5 million. The same year, Kit Willow sold her fashion and lingerie label Willow to the Apparel Group, owner of Saba and Sportscraft. In 2010, Ksubi fought off liquidators with a restructure that involved an investor, the founders and major shareholders Bleach Pty Ltd, a surf apparel group. So the investors are there; it’s just that they’re all in the same business. | In 2011, Myer purchased 65% of Sass and Bide for a reported $42.5 million. The same year, Kit Willow sold her fashion and lingerie label Willow to the Apparel Group, owner of Saba and Sportscraft. In 2010, Ksubi fought off liquidators with a restructure that involved an investor, the founders and major shareholders Bleach Pty Ltd, a surf apparel group. So the investors are there; it’s just that they’re all in the same business. |
| Another hurdle for Australian labels has been the sensitivity attached to global perceptions of our culture and style. Ryan Lobo, one half of the New York-based label Tome, who both studied fashion at the University of Technology, Sydney, believes the emergence of online shopping has helped challenge peoples’ prejudices about Australian fashion. Slowly, the representation of Australian brands on global e-stores is growing. (There are currently 13 local labels out of 304 fashion brands on Net-a-Porter.) | Another hurdle for Australian labels has been the sensitivity attached to global perceptions of our culture and style. Ryan Lobo, one half of the New York-based label Tome, who both studied fashion at the University of Technology, Sydney, believes the emergence of online shopping has helped challenge peoples’ prejudices about Australian fashion. Slowly, the representation of Australian brands on global e-stores is growing. (There are currently 13 local labels out of 304 fashion brands on Net-a-Porter.) |
| “A lot of Australian designers rub shoulders with the big international names and in some respects are leaders in their fields,” says Lobo. “It's no longer just about swimwear.” | “A lot of Australian designers rub shoulders with the big international names and in some respects are leaders in their fields,” says Lobo. “It's no longer just about swimwear.” |
| The designer and his business partner, Ramon Martin, made a strategic decision to launch and base their label in New York citing the appeal of a fashion industry “that is very welcoming of new names and offers a diverse variety of support for designers.” | The designer and his business partner, Ramon Martin, made a strategic decision to launch and base their label in New York citing the appeal of a fashion industry “that is very welcoming of new names and offers a diverse variety of support for designers.” |
| For Dion Lee, a designer who knows first hand the challenges of positioning a brand internationally, changing attitudes towards Australian style are happening as a flow-on from the market evolving locally. “I think the consumer is more globally conscious, allowing designers to push the product further. The world has become so much smaller and the media now allows you to communicate your brand more easily than ever before.” | For Dion Lee, a designer who knows first hand the challenges of positioning a brand internationally, changing attitudes towards Australian style are happening as a flow-on from the market evolving locally. “I think the consumer is more globally conscious, allowing designers to push the product further. The world has become so much smaller and the media now allows you to communicate your brand more easily than ever before.” |
| In four quick years, Lee has quietly channelled the local momentum behind his label into an overseas strategy with a growing profile in New York and London. Now on the cusp of real international success, it will be a matter of how far (and quickly) the financial backing from Cue will allow him to grow globally. | In four quick years, Lee has quietly channelled the local momentum behind his label into an overseas strategy with a growing profile in New York and London. Now on the cusp of real international success, it will be a matter of how far (and quickly) the financial backing from Cue will allow him to grow globally. |
| Despite the brand closures and dangerous competition from international fast-fashion stores, such as Top Shop and Zara, there is light at the end of the runway. | Despite the brand closures and dangerous competition from international fast-fashion stores, such as Top Shop and Zara, there is light at the end of the runway. |
| Retail is up almost 2% according to the latest ABS trade figures. Rumours abound that LVMH’s L Capital Group is still hungry, surely good news for local brands in need of a cash injection. And, there’s a new crop of local designers who are capturing the world’s attention with their edge and talent. | Retail is up almost 2% according to the latest ABS trade figures. Rumours abound that LVMH’s L Capital Group is still hungry, surely good news for local brands in need of a cash injection. And, there’s a new crop of local designers who are capturing the world’s attention with their edge and talent. |
| The geography may make it tough, but at least we’re on the map. | The geography may make it tough, but at least we’re on the map. |
| The New Crop – four to watch. | The New Crop – four to watch. |
| Dion Lee | Dion Lee |
| No surprises here. Lee has carried the mantle of next big thing with grace and conviction since his label launched in 2008. Recognised for his technical ability, textile innovations and sharp eye, Lee has developed an international look that is contemporary and, at first glance, effortless. | No surprises here. Lee has carried the mantle of next big thing with grace and conviction since his label launched in 2008. Recognised for his technical ability, textile innovations and sharp eye, Lee has developed an international look that is contemporary and, at first glance, effortless. |
| This year is already dotted with milestones: a regional finalist at the International Woolmark Prize, a profile in American Vogue and that partnership with Cue Clothing Co. Expect big things. | This year is already dotted with milestones: a regional finalist at the International Woolmark Prize, a profile in American Vogue and that partnership with Cue Clothing Co. Expect big things. |
| Ellery | Ellery |
| A previous career as a fashion stylist becomes apparent when you see the experimentation in Kym Ellery’s designs. Drawing on inspirations from popular culture to the avant-garde, Ellery carefully deconstructs the very elements of design. Precision and conjecture; light and shade; weight and resistance. | A previous career as a fashion stylist becomes apparent when you see the experimentation in Kym Ellery’s designs. Drawing on inspirations from popular culture to the avant-garde, Ellery carefully deconstructs the very elements of design. Precision and conjecture; light and shade; weight and resistance. |
| With a recent lawsuit with Myer now behind her – she breached an exclusive supply contract – Ellery continues to prove her talents as both a designer and businesswoman. | With a recent lawsuit with Myer now behind her – she breached an exclusive supply contract – Ellery continues to prove her talents as both a designer and businesswoman. |
| Tome | Tome |
| While officially based in New York, Tome is an international brand headed by two Australians – Ramon Martin and Ryan Lobo who collectively share more than 30 years experience in the industry. | While officially based in New York, Tome is an international brand headed by two Australians – Ramon Martin and Ryan Lobo who collectively share more than 30 years experience in the industry. |
| Launching their line in late 2011, the brand was immediately noted for its clean lines and wearable practicality. The clean aesthetic extends to an ethos grounded in brand sustainability; all garments are designed and made in New York. | Launching their line in late 2011, the brand was immediately noted for its clean lines and wearable practicality. The clean aesthetic extends to an ethos grounded in brand sustainability; all garments are designed and made in New York. |
| Bianca Spender | Bianca Spender |
| With her prodigious talent, fortified by genes (she is the daughter of Carla Zampatti) and an early internship in Paris with Martine Sitbon, Spender’s designs are both referential and artistic, drawing mostly on her relationship with nature. | With her prodigious talent, fortified by genes (she is the daughter of Carla Zampatti) and an early internship in Paris with Martine Sitbon, Spender’s designs are both referential and artistic, drawing mostly on her relationship with nature. |
| A flagship store in Sydney and several David Jones concessions have allowed her a consistent, local platform. Now, with an e-store launched, Spender is looking to find a new audience abroad. | A flagship store in Sydney and several David Jones concessions have allowed her a consistent, local platform. Now, with an e-store launched, Spender is looking to find a new audience abroad. |
| Our editors' picks for the day's top news and commentary delivered to your inbox each morning. |
Previous version
1
Next version