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Chalets and a chapel on a sun-drenched coastal path Chalets and a chapel on a sun-drenched coastal path
(2 months later)
In Whitsand Bay, calm sea the colour of blue butterfly wings gradually merges with the hazy horizon. Inland, Rame's church spire pokes above ripening corn and cut hay, and black cattle swish their tails in a field of polleny grass. People have parked cars beside the coastal road to access the beach and their chalets are scattered across the green cliffs. Turquoise water laps rocks in the shallows and a landing craft lies off the shoreclose to Polhawn Fort. Now a wedding venue, this was originally one of the Palmerston batteries that guarded approaches to Plymouth sound.In Whitsand Bay, calm sea the colour of blue butterfly wings gradually merges with the hazy horizon. Inland, Rame's church spire pokes above ripening corn and cut hay, and black cattle swish their tails in a field of polleny grass. People have parked cars beside the coastal road to access the beach and their chalets are scattered across the green cliffs. Turquoise water laps rocks in the shallows and a landing craft lies off the shoreclose to Polhawn Fort. Now a wedding venue, this was originally one of the Palmerston batteries that guarded approaches to Plymouth sound.
Beside the dusty track pink mallow, thistle and valerian, white flowers of bramble and yarrow and the blue of viper's bugloss mix with seeding vegetation, and the fragrance of honeysuckle competes with the rank odour of flowering privet. Ahead, beyond a curve of shadowy gullies and sharp rocks, Rame Head's conical summit is topped with the ruined chapel of St Michael. The approach is hot with bare rock, dried up turf and the crackling seed pods of gorse. The thrift has shrivelled but sheep's-bit remains blue like the sea. Even on top there is no breeze although it is cool within the vaulted interior of the old hermitage. Inland, across a narrow neck of land, the modern coastguard station with aerials now keeps a lookout, but the distinctive headland remains an important landmark. Eastwards, a naval exercise involves a frigate heading out to sea and two large landing ships with helicopters on board. Noisier are the engines of pleasure cruisers and three jet skis.Beside the dusty track pink mallow, thistle and valerian, white flowers of bramble and yarrow and the blue of viper's bugloss mix with seeding vegetation, and the fragrance of honeysuckle competes with the rank odour of flowering privet. Ahead, beyond a curve of shadowy gullies and sharp rocks, Rame Head's conical summit is topped with the ruined chapel of St Michael. The approach is hot with bare rock, dried up turf and the crackling seed pods of gorse. The thrift has shrivelled but sheep's-bit remains blue like the sea. Even on top there is no breeze although it is cool within the vaulted interior of the old hermitage. Inland, across a narrow neck of land, the modern coastguard station with aerials now keeps a lookout, but the distinctive headland remains an important landmark. Eastwards, a naval exercise involves a frigate heading out to sea and two large landing ships with helicopters on board. Noisier are the engines of pleasure cruisers and three jet skis.
Towards Penlee Point a few ringlets flit and spiral beside the sun-drenched coastal path. Buzzard and skylarks call above adjoining fields and, in the shade of holm oaks, a sunburned walker from Sheffield dispenses water to his two thirsty terriers. Then around the corner, towards sheltered Cawsand and Kingsand, comes the welcome greenness of woods where ferns, ivy and woodrush grow in the dappled shade, and sunlit leaves cast shadows on the tall trunks of the sycamore and sweet chestnut.Towards Penlee Point a few ringlets flit and spiral beside the sun-drenched coastal path. Buzzard and skylarks call above adjoining fields and, in the shade of holm oaks, a sunburned walker from Sheffield dispenses water to his two thirsty terriers. Then around the corner, towards sheltered Cawsand and Kingsand, comes the welcome greenness of woods where ferns, ivy and woodrush grow in the dappled shade, and sunlit leaves cast shadows on the tall trunks of the sycamore and sweet chestnut.
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