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| Burned down Aswad garment factory slipped through new safety net | Burned down Aswad garment factory slipped through new safety net |
| (about 2 hours later) | |
| A Bangladeshi garment factory, where at least seven workers died and more than 50 were injured in a fire on Tuesday, slipped through the net of international safety deals despite making fabric used by brands such as H&M, George at Asda, Primark, Next and Morrisons. | A Bangladeshi garment factory, where at least seven workers died and more than 50 were injured in a fire on Tuesday, slipped through the net of international safety deals despite making fabric used by brands such as H&M, George at Asda, Primark, Next and Morrisons. |
| The Aswad Composite Mills factory, in Gazipur, outside Dhaka, was not one of almost 1,600 sites due to be inspected under the accord on fire and building safety because it was not a garment factory dealing directly with brands. | The Aswad Composite Mills factory, in Gazipur, outside Dhaka, was not one of almost 1,600 sites due to be inspected under the accord on fire and building safety because it was not a garment factory dealing directly with brands. |
| The blaze was reported to have originated in the knitting section of the factory, which belongs to part of the Palmal group. | The blaze was reported to have originated in the knitting section of the factory, which belongs to part of the Palmal group. |
| The incident raises further questions about factory safety in Bangladesh less than six months after the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory, where more than 1,100 workers died and which led to the formation of two international deals to pump money into improving factory standards. | The incident raises further questions about factory safety in Bangladesh less than six months after the collapse of the Rana Plaza factory, where more than 1,100 workers died and which led to the formation of two international deals to pump money into improving factory standards. |
| It also comes at a sensitive time in Bangladesh, with the government due to rule on a new minimum wage for textile workers. | It also comes at a sensitive time in Bangladesh, with the government due to rule on a new minimum wage for textile workers. |
| More than 93 retailers, including H&M, Next, Primark and Marks & Spencer, have signed the legally binding accord, which ensures a commitment to carry out fire safety and structural inspections on thousands of buildings. | More than 93 retailers, including H&M, Next, Primark and Marks & Spencer, have signed the legally binding accord, which ensures a commitment to carry out fire safety and structural inspections on thousands of buildings. |
| Asda's owner Walmart and Gap have signed a less stringent US deal, known as the Bangladesh worker safety alliance. This also failed to cover the Aswad factory. | Asda's owner Walmart and Gap have signed a less stringent US deal, known as the Bangladesh worker safety alliance. This also failed to cover the Aswad factory. |
| Sam Maher, a campaigner at Labour Behind the Label, a pressure group for workers' rights, said the fire showed that thousands more potentially unsafe buildings housing workers producing goods for the UK could slip through the net. | Sam Maher, a campaigner at Labour Behind the Label, a pressure group for workers' rights, said the fire showed that thousands more potentially unsafe buildings housing workers producing goods for the UK could slip through the net. |
| Maher said: "There's no reason why garment workers should get protection afforded by inspections and those in fabric mills don't. It doesn't make sense to buy from a company without checking all its buildings." | Maher said: "There's no reason why garment workers should get protection afforded by inspections and those in fabric mills don't. It doesn't make sense to buy from a company without checking all its buildings." |
| Palmal, Aswad's owner, has several clothing factories that are set to be inspected under the accord and many of the garments these make are likely to have used fabric made at the company's mill. | Palmal, Aswad's owner, has several clothing factories that are set to be inspected under the accord and many of the garments these make are likely to have used fabric made at the company's mill. |
| Aminul Islam, administration officer at Aswad, said some international brands had a direct contract with Palmal to source fabric made at the mill. | Aminul Islam, administration officer at Aswad, said some international brands had a direct contract with Palmal to source fabric made at the mill. |
| A spokeswoman for George at Asda said: "We are deeply saddened by what has happened and our thoughts go out to the families and victims of the accident. George at Asda has a long standing relationship with Aswad Mill, we do source fabric from there and we are working with the owner to ensure we help them however we can. | |
| "As part of the Walmart family we have a safety programme that rigorously inspects the factories that make our garments and other products. Typically that program does not extend to the facilities that make materials like fabric for those garment factories. | |
| "Given the situation in Bangladesh, we, along with Walmart, believe the government of Bangladesh and the industry should consider whether to extend factory safety programs to this next level of production" | |
| Morrisons and H&M said they sourced clothing produced by Palmal's garment factories supplied by the company's fabric mill, but that they had no direct relationship with the mill. | Morrisons and H&M said they sourced clothing produced by Palmal's garment factories supplied by the company's fabric mill, but that they had no direct relationship with the mill. |
| Next said in a statement that Aswad provided fabric to a separate clothing supplier. | Next said in a statement that Aswad provided fabric to a separate clothing supplier. |
| Primark said it had made its last order with Aswad in March after the company broke its code of conduct. A spokesman said: "Incidents like this demonstrate the requirement for the accord to be effective, and for all members to work in collaboration for sustainable change in Bangladesh." | Primark said it had made its last order with Aswad in March after the company broke its code of conduct. A spokesman said: "Incidents like this demonstrate the requirement for the accord to be effective, and for all members to work in collaboration for sustainable change in Bangladesh." |
| Meanwhile, inspections of garment factories covered by the accord are not likely to begin until November at the earliest. Although some brands, including Primark and Tesco, have been doing their own inspections – which have already uncovered at least one unsafe factory – it is not clear if this work will meet the requirements of the international safety deal. | Meanwhile, inspections of garment factories covered by the accord are not likely to begin until November at the earliest. Although some brands, including Primark and Tesco, have been doing their own inspections – which have already uncovered at least one unsafe factory – it is not clear if this work will meet the requirements of the international safety deal. |
| Andy York, a member of the steering committee co-ordinating the setup of the body implementing the accord, said third-party consultants were being hired to begin inspections while the permanent staff were hired. An executive team and chief inspector are expected to be in place next week after months of legal and organisational work. | Andy York, a member of the steering committee co-ordinating the setup of the body implementing the accord, said third-party consultants were being hired to begin inspections while the permanent staff were hired. An executive team and chief inspector are expected to be in place next week after months of legal and organisational work. |
| Negotiations are also continuing on how any work to improve factories might be funded. It is hoped that money from the EU and individual governments can help support factory owners and the Bangladeshi government, but brands might also have to chip in more funds. | Negotiations are also continuing on how any work to improve factories might be funded. It is hoped that money from the EU and individual governments can help support factory owners and the Bangladeshi government, but brands might also have to chip in more funds. |
| York said companies had signed up to the deal with no idea of the potential costs but he urged those companies yet to sign, such as Edinburgh Woollen Mill, to have a change of heart. He said: "The first thing is that no worker should pay with their life for a garment or anything else." | York said companies had signed up to the deal with no idea of the potential costs but he urged those companies yet to sign, such as Edinburgh Woollen Mill, to have a change of heart. He said: "The first thing is that no worker should pay with their life for a garment or anything else." |
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