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There were many independent labels recording the new soul music in the early 1960s, but only one whose sense of destiny led its executives to set up what amounted to a finishing school for its artists. The Supremes, Marvin Gaye, the Miracles, the Temptations and Martha and the Vandellas were among the many young singers who attended compulsory classes at Motown Records' artist development department, where they came under the influence of the remarkable Maxine Powell, a specialist in deportment and etiquette, who has died aged 98.There were many independent labels recording the new soul music in the early 1960s, but only one whose sense of destiny led its executives to set up what amounted to a finishing school for its artists. The Supremes, Marvin Gaye, the Miracles, the Temptations and Martha and the Vandellas were among the many young singers who attended compulsory classes at Motown Records' artist development department, where they came under the influence of the remarkable Maxine Powell, a specialist in deportment and etiquette, who has died aged 98.
Powell ordered Diana Ross not to grimace when she sang, but to smile and otherwise keep her face still. "I told her that in first-class places like the Copa, no one's going to pay good money to watch someone make faces," she said. The Copacabana, a top New York nightspot, was the sort of high-toned venue for which the mentor was preparing her proteges, whose early experience had been largely limited to black clubs and theatres. But her ambitions did not end there. "We're training them for Buckingham Palace and the White House," she said, and some of them would go on to scale such heights.Powell ordered Diana Ross not to grimace when she sang, but to smile and otherwise keep her face still. "I told her that in first-class places like the Copa, no one's going to pay good money to watch someone make faces," she said. The Copacabana, a top New York nightspot, was the sort of high-toned venue for which the mentor was preparing her proteges, whose early experience had been largely limited to black clubs and theatres. But her ambitions did not end there. "We're training them for Buckingham Palace and the White House," she said, and some of them would go on to scale such heights.
Presented with teenage boys and girls from the housing projects of Detroit, many of whose parents or grandparents had arrived there from the plantations of the deep south, she turned out ladies and gentlemen. She put the girls in gowns and elbow-length gloves for the stage, and pillbox hats and pencil skirts for other public appearances, and taught them how to enter and exit a limousine with decorum. She persuaded reluctant pupils such as Gaye to stop slouching and to keep their eyes open when they sang ("The eyes are the windows to the soul," she told him). She showed them how to handle cutlery and fine china, and inculcated the habit of giving polite but anodyne replies to the newspaper and magazine reporters who would soon be clamouring to hear their stories.Presented with teenage boys and girls from the housing projects of Detroit, many of whose parents or grandparents had arrived there from the plantations of the deep south, she turned out ladies and gentlemen. She put the girls in gowns and elbow-length gloves for the stage, and pillbox hats and pencil skirts for other public appearances, and taught them how to enter and exit a limousine with decorum. She persuaded reluctant pupils such as Gaye to stop slouching and to keep their eyes open when they sang ("The eyes are the windows to the soul," she told him). She showed them how to handle cutlery and fine china, and inculcated the habit of giving polite but anodyne replies to the newspaper and magazine reporters who would soon be clamouring to hear their stories.
She was born Maxine Blair in Texarkana, Texas, and was brought up by an aunt in Chicago, where she studied acting and dance. She performed with the Negro Drama League, a black repertory company, and staged a one-woman show, An Evening With Maxine Powell, at the Chicago theatre as a showcase for her varied gifts. Although barely 5ft tall, she worked as a model and, after moving to Detroit in 1948, began to give classes in modelling and the associated arts of deportment and etiquette.She was born Maxine Blair in Texarkana, Texas, and was brought up by an aunt in Chicago, where she studied acting and dance. She performed with the Negro Drama League, a black repertory company, and staged a one-woman show, An Evening With Maxine Powell, at the Chicago theatre as a showcase for her varied gifts. Although barely 5ft tall, she worked as a model and, after moving to Detroit in 1948, began to give classes in modelling and the associated arts of deportment and etiquette.
In 1951, she opened her own school, the Maxine Powell Model, Host and Hostess Agency, Detroit's first black finishing school. Among her pupils were Gwen, Anna and Esther Gordy, the sisters of Berry Gordy Jr, an ambitious young songwriter and businessman.In 1951, she opened her own school, the Maxine Powell Model, Host and Hostess Agency, Detroit's first black finishing school. Among her pupils were Gwen, Anna and Esther Gordy, the sisters of Berry Gordy Jr, an ambitious young songwriter and businessman.
Berry Gordy had spent time working in the local auto factories and aimed to apply their production-line methods and strict quality control to the business of running a record company. He founded Motown Records in 1959, and when the hits started to come it became apparent to him that, if his young artists were to sustain long careers at a more exalted level, they would require professional grooming. Berry Gordy had spent time working in the local auto factories and aimed to apply their production-line methods and strict quality control to the business of running a record company. He founded Motown Records in 1959, and when the hits started to come it became apparent to him that if his young artists were to sustain long careers at a more exalted level, they would require professional grooming.
He had met Powell when she visited the Gordy family's printing business to order publicity material for a talent and fashion show. Encouraged by his sisters, in 1964 he offered her a full-time job in a new section of the company run by his associate Harvey Fuqua, whose faculty would also include Cholly Atkins, the celebrated tap-dancer and inventor of complex and polished stage routines, and Maurice King, who taught vocal technique.He had met Powell when she visited the Gordy family's printing business to order publicity material for a talent and fashion show. Encouraged by his sisters, in 1964 he offered her a full-time job in a new section of the company run by his associate Harvey Fuqua, whose faculty would also include Cholly Atkins, the celebrated tap-dancer and inventor of complex and polished stage routines, and Maurice King, who taught vocal technique.
"When I went into Motown," Powell said of her new charges, "you couldn't sell them to a record hop. Some were rude, some were crude, and some hadn't been anywhere. They weren't the best singers in the world, but they all wanted the same thing, and they worked hard.""When I went into Motown," Powell said of her new charges, "you couldn't sell them to a record hop. Some were rude, some were crude, and some hadn't been anywhere. They weren't the best singers in the world, but they all wanted the same thing, and they worked hard."
The department was located in the same building as the Gordys' printing business, on the corner of Farnsworth and St Antoine Streets, close to Hitsville USA, as Motown's offices and studio on West Grand Boulevard became known. It was Powell who gave it the title "artist development"; the rehearsal room had a grand piano and mirrored walls, like a dance studio. She lived on West Grand and walked to work.The department was located in the same building as the Gordys' printing business, on the corner of Farnsworth and St Antoine Streets, close to Hitsville USA, as Motown's offices and studio on West Grand Boulevard became known. It was Powell who gave it the title "artist development"; the rehearsal room had a grand piano and mirrored walls, like a dance studio. She lived on West Grand and walked to work.
"You were scheduled to go there when you were in town and not working," Bertha Barbee McNeal of the Velvelettes remembered. "It was an ongoing process that you went through. You were critiqued. It was mandatory. That's where you learned all your skills and stage presentation, how to 'sell' a song.""You were scheduled to go there when you were in town and not working," Bertha Barbee McNeal of the Velvelettes remembered. "It was an ongoing process that you went through. You were critiqued. It was mandatory. That's where you learned all your skills and stage presentation, how to 'sell' a song."
The Supremes, a trio from the Brewster-Douglass housing project, became Gordy's pet project, largely thanks to his intense personal interest in Ross, whom he selected to become their lead singer. Given a budget for their stage clothes, Powell would head for the sales at Detroit's posh department stores, taking her purchases home to make alterations to fit her charges. Cheap white pumps would be bought and dyed in shades to match the gowns.The Supremes, a trio from the Brewster-Douglass housing project, became Gordy's pet project, largely thanks to his intense personal interest in Ross, whom he selected to become their lead singer. Given a budget for their stage clothes, Powell would head for the sales at Detroit's posh department stores, taking her purchases home to make alterations to fit her charges. Cheap white pumps would be bought and dyed in shades to match the gowns.
Since the girls were barely out of school and yet to develop curves, she enhanced their figures though the use of bra, hip and buttock padding. "Mrs Powell's efforts paid some interesting dividends," Mary Wilson, another member of the group, recalled. "Not only did we have a lot more self-confidence, but other people began treating us differently."Since the girls were barely out of school and yet to develop curves, she enhanced their figures though the use of bra, hip and buttock padding. "Mrs Powell's efforts paid some interesting dividends," Mary Wilson, another member of the group, recalled. "Not only did we have a lot more self-confidence, but other people began treating us differently."
In later years, Wilson would say that it was "not only incorrect but insulting" to suppose that Gordy had simply taken a bunch of ghetto kids and turned them out as stars. Ross added: "We were already ladies who had been brought up right." Nevertheless, Powell's strategy worked, and by the summer of 1965 the Supremes were engaged for a three-week season at the Copacabana. As they sang Broadway standards in beautiful gowns, Gordy watched his dream come true: his artists had become all-round entertainers with worldwide appeal.In later years, Wilson would say that it was "not only incorrect but insulting" to suppose that Gordy had simply taken a bunch of ghetto kids and turned them out as stars. Ross added: "We were already ladies who had been brought up right." Nevertheless, Powell's strategy worked, and by the summer of 1965 the Supremes were engaged for a three-week season at the Copacabana. As they sang Broadway standards in beautiful gowns, Gordy watched his dream come true: his artists had become all-round entertainers with worldwide appeal.
"Your best friend is your self-image," Powell told all her pupils. "Maxine Powell taught us fundamental social graces, giving us the confidence to walk into any situation with our heads held high," said Smokey Robinson. Melvin Franklin of the Temptations remembered being instructed in the secrets of makeup and personal hygiene. As well as no closing of the eyes when singing, there would be no frowning, no finger-snapping, no spreading of the legs and no sticking out of the buttocks."Your best friend is your self-image," Powell told all her pupils. "Maxine Powell taught us fundamental social graces, giving us the confidence to walk into any situation with our heads held high," said Smokey Robinson. Melvin Franklin of the Temptations remembered being instructed in the secrets of makeup and personal hygiene. As well as no closing of the eyes when singing, there would be no frowning, no finger-snapping, no spreading of the legs and no sticking out of the buttocks.
Powell left Motown in 1969, shortly before the company relocated to Los Angeles. After writing a book on personal development, she taught at Wayne County Community College in Detroit. In August 2013, a special event was held in her honour at the old Hitsville studios, now the Motown Museum.Powell left Motown in 1969, shortly before the company relocated to Los Angeles. After writing a book on personal development, she taught at Wayne County Community College in Detroit. In August 2013, a special event was held in her honour at the old Hitsville studios, now the Motown Museum.
Berry Gordy recalled how the woman he always addressed as "Mrs Powell" had told her young charges: "I love you all, but don't confuse me with your mother. She's stuck with you. I'm not."Berry Gordy recalled how the woman he always addressed as "Mrs Powell" had told her young charges: "I love you all, but don't confuse me with your mother. She's stuck with you. I'm not."
Her lessons, however, tended to stick. "We didn't take her seriously when we first met her," Martha Reeves recalled, "but I'll always be indebted to her. The girls who didn't have Mrs Powell, it shows. They don't know how to stand, they don't know how to walk, they don't know how to present themselves; they're not ladylike.Her lessons, however, tended to stick. "We didn't take her seriously when we first met her," Martha Reeves recalled, "but I'll always be indebted to her. The girls who didn't have Mrs Powell, it shows. They don't know how to stand, they don't know how to walk, they don't know how to present themselves; they're not ladylike.
"She would tell us that we were all like flowers. Some were roses and some were lilies, but we all had the potential to be beautiful.""She would tell us that we were all like flowers. Some were roses and some were lilies, but we all had the potential to be beautiful."
Her marriage to James Powell ended in divorce.Her marriage to James Powell ended in divorce.
• Maxine Powell, teacher of grooming, deportment and etiquette, born 30 May 1915; died 14 October 2013• Maxine Powell, teacher of grooming, deportment and etiquette, born 30 May 1915; died 14 October 2013
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