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London's first whisky distillery for a century | London's first whisky distillery for a century |
(about 5 hours later) | |
London's first whisky distillery in more than a century has begun its debut run of production. The London Distillery Company was only recently granted permission to revive an industry which once proliferated across the capital. | |
In a converted warehouse in south-west London, gentle bubbling and trickling sounds can be heard and there is a heady aroma in the air. | In a converted warehouse in south-west London, gentle bubbling and trickling sounds can be heard and there is a heady aroma in the air. |
The smell is a spirit, currently 70% alcohol, which has just been boiled in a shimmering copper and stainless steel still. The vapour pipes through a condenser and the alcohol is dripping through a tap into a steel rolling vat. | |
Over the other side of the room, a more yeasty odour lingers, where a giant lauter tun stand and the fermentation process has been taking place over the past week. | |
The copper whisky still is called Matilda, affectionately named after The London Distillery Company founder Darren Rook's Scottish grandmother. | |
Last month, the firm, based in Battersea received approval in writing from HM Revenue and Customs (HMRC) to make Plain British Spirit. | Last month, the firm, based in Battersea received approval in writing from HM Revenue and Customs (HMRC) to make Plain British Spirit. |
"It is not widely known that the capital has a great heritage of whisky production dating back to before Chaucer," says Mr Rook, aged 32. | "It is not widely known that the capital has a great heritage of whisky production dating back to before Chaucer," says Mr Rook, aged 32. |
Yet following a crash in the market, the capital's last whisky distillery, the Lea Valley Distillery, where the Olympic site now stands, closed in early 20th century. | |
In recent years there has been a boom in whisky distillation in parts of the USA and Australia. A few years ago The London Distillery Company's co-founders pondered why London was without one. | |
Until the 1990s whisky stills had to have a greater volume than 1,800 litres - the size deemed too big to fit onto a horse and cart. | Until the 1990s whisky stills had to have a greater volume than 1,800 litres - the size deemed too big to fit onto a horse and cart. |
But the law was then amended to allow consideration of smaller distilleries on commercial grounds. | |
Initial plans for the London distillery were made in 2010, but it took its founders three years to find a site, build the distillery, get the necessary approvals, and raise funds - partly through crowdsourcing. | Initial plans for the London distillery were made in 2010, but it took its founders three years to find a site, build the distillery, get the necessary approvals, and raise funds - partly through crowdsourcing. |
Head Distiller Andrew MacLeod Smith, 30, is originally from Aberdeen, but cut his teeth in the industry working in New York's whisky bars before studying distilling in Edinburgh. | |
"Building the distillery was the easy part," he says. "Now comes the hard part - making the spirit. | "Building the distillery was the easy part," he says. "Now comes the hard part - making the spirit. |
"It's important to respect the science," he says. "The trick to making a good whisky is to pay attention to every part of the fragile process." | "It's important to respect the science," he says. "The trick to making a good whisky is to pay attention to every part of the fragile process." |
"The smallest variations have a huge impact." | "The smallest variations have a huge impact." |
So how does he hope the end product will taste? | So how does he hope the end product will taste? |
"We want it to be a little fruity, light, but also having a hearty maltiness and a chocolaty caramel note." | "We want it to be a little fruity, light, but also having a hearty maltiness and a chocolaty caramel note." |
This whisky is also unique to the UK in the fact it falls outside the remit of the Scottish Whisky Act, giving the producers some license to experiment - for example its barrels could be made from wood other than oak. | This whisky is also unique to the UK in the fact it falls outside the remit of the Scottish Whisky Act, giving the producers some license to experiment - for example its barrels could be made from wood other than oak. |
For its first run, the firm has used English oak barrels, made by the last English master cooper Alastair Simms. | For its first run, the firm has used English oak barrels, made by the last English master cooper Alastair Simms. |
Mr Rook, who worked in Newcastle cocktail bars before joining the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, also says "safety is paramount" after a number of reported fires at whisky distilleries in recent years | |
Of course, success is not guaranteed and the firm are entering a highly competitive market. | Of course, success is not guaranteed and the firm are entering a highly competitive market. |
Despite Scotch whisky exports growing by 11% in the first half of this year, the whisky industry is saw profits growing at only around half volume growth. | Despite Scotch whisky exports growing by 11% in the first half of this year, the whisky industry is saw profits growing at only around half volume growth. |
Mr Rook thinks a growing trend for people looking for local produce will be key to the distillery's success. | Mr Rook thinks a growing trend for people looking for local produce will be key to the distillery's success. |
"We think people will buy into the idea of a craft distillery, which makes whisky from the start to end of the process," he says. | "We think people will buy into the idea of a craft distillery, which makes whisky from the start to end of the process," he says. |
For now, those keen to sample amber liquor will have to wait. | For now, those keen to sample amber liquor will have to wait. |
The spirit needs to be aged for at least three years and one day to become whisky. | The spirit needs to be aged for at least three years and one day to become whisky. |
Cheers to Christmas 2016. | Cheers to Christmas 2016. |
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