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Playboy and fashion: let's call time on this not-so-chic alliance Playboy and fashion: let's call time on this not-so-chic alliance
(35 minutes later)
Can a Playboy shoot ever really be fashionable?
Alex, by email		Can a Playboy shoot ever really be fashionable?
Alex, by email
You would think so, Alex, considering the number of women who model for that sad, deflated erection of a publication and tell themselves just that. In a recent interview, model Alessandra Ambrosio – a woman I'd previously only encountered in the Mail Online's sidebar of shame – announced that she would do Playboy as long as it wasn't "vulgar": "I'd make sure it was artistic," Ambrosio mused, posing the question of what this overused-to-the-point-of-cliche word actually means in this context.You would think so, Alex, considering the number of women who model for that sad, deflated erection of a publication and tell themselves just that. In a recent interview, model Alessandra Ambrosio – a woman I'd previously only encountered in the Mail Online's sidebar of shame – announced that she would do Playboy as long as it wasn't "vulgar": "I'd make sure it was artistic," Ambrosio mused, posing the question of what this overused-to-the-point-of-cliche word actually means in this context.
One doesn't need to be Andrea Dworkin to find not just the existence of Playboy laughably pathetic, but the still bafflingly tenacious myth that Playboy is somehow chic – even stylish – a veritable hernia-inducing laugh. Just as Playboy has somehow revamped its image to be seen as ever so debonair, so Dworkin's own image was ruthlessly mauled by detractors in her own lifetime and has been so ever since.One doesn't need to be Andrea Dworkin to find not just the existence of Playboy laughably pathetic, but the still bafflingly tenacious myth that Playboy is somehow chic – even stylish – a veritable hernia-inducing laugh. Just as Playboy has somehow revamped its image to be seen as ever so debonair, so Dworkin's own image was ruthlessly mauled by detractors in her own lifetime and has been so ever since.
Dworkin was fascinating, and anyone who says otherwise should be handed a copy of Our Blood forthwith. But then, Dworkin emphatically didn't believe that women should be pleasing to men, or that women's emancipation should in some way be rendered unthreatening to men (she would not, shall we say, have much time for the recent suggestion that feminism should be "rebranded."). She has therefore been largely damned by the ridiculous modern-day mentality that militancy should be written out of feminism when, actually, militancy was, and arguably still is, very much needed in feminism and is nothing women should feel the need to apologise for. Dworkin was fascinating, and anyone who says otherwise should be handed a copy of Our Blood forthwith. But then, Dworkin emphatically didn't believe that women should be pleasing to men, or that women's emancipation should in some way be rendered unthreatening to men (she would not, shall we say, have much time for the recent suggestion that feminism should be "rebranded."). She has therefore been largely damned by the ridiculous modern-day mentality that militancy should be written out of feminism when, actually, militancy was, and arguably still is, very much needed in feminism and is nothing women should feel the need to apologise for. The fact that they do feel that need proves how much feminism is still needed. Dworkin was scary – a scary woman – and is therefore banished, while Playboy's bunnies, with their betailed rumps and oiled cleavages, thrive.
The fact that they do feel that need proves how much feminism is still needed. Dworkin was scary – a scary woman – and is therefore banished, while Playboy's bunnies, with their betailed rumps and oiled cleavages, thrive.
Which brings us back to Playboy. Doubtless Ambrosio's interest has been piqued by Kate Moss, who has done precisely the thing that none of her fans ever thought she would: she became a cliche. Following in the footsteps of many other models who suddenly felt the need to prove that they're still sexy, Moss modelled for Playboy. That this got any media attention at all is a testament to the power of Hugh Hefner's indefatigable PR machine, seeing as most of us have seen Moss's breasts more often than we've seen our own.Which brings us back to Playboy. Doubtless Ambrosio's interest has been piqued by Kate Moss, who has done precisely the thing that none of her fans ever thought she would: she became a cliche. Following in the footsteps of many other models who suddenly felt the need to prove that they're still sexy, Moss modelled for Playboy. That this got any media attention at all is a testament to the power of Hugh Hefner's indefatigable PR machine, seeing as most of us have seen Moss's breasts more often than we've seen our own.
In fact, she can currently be seen in an advert for some kind of orange tanning cream in which she is wearing less than she is in the laughably naff Playboy shoot. Yet Moss even giving that tedious windbag Hefner the time of day says at least as much about the power of PR as it does about the relationship between Playboy and fashion.In fact, she can currently be seen in an advert for some kind of orange tanning cream in which she is wearing less than she is in the laughably naff Playboy shoot. Yet Moss even giving that tedious windbag Hefner the time of day says at least as much about the power of PR as it does about the relationship between Playboy and fashion.
Even though Hefner has made what looks like a deeply concerted effort to show how unbelievably boring he is through Twitter and occasional interviews, there still exists a sheen of celebrity and even, God help us, history around the Playboy franchise, as evidenced by the yawnworthy A-list parties held at the Playboy mansion and the depressingly gargantuan sales of awful Playboy accessories. God forbid your smartphone shouldn't look nubile, right?Even though Hefner has made what looks like a deeply concerted effort to show how unbelievably boring he is through Twitter and occasional interviews, there still exists a sheen of celebrity and even, God help us, history around the Playboy franchise, as evidenced by the yawnworthy A-list parties held at the Playboy mansion and the depressingly gargantuan sales of awful Playboy accessories. God forbid your smartphone shouldn't look nubile, right?
The sales of these products – as often as not to women – prove what Dworkin always said about pornography: that it dehumanises women. And few mainstream pornography brands do that as blatantly as Playboy. It's one thing to reduce women to masturbation objects (and I have no problem with masturbation. After all, it's everyone's favourite hobby, to paraphrase Woody Allen.) But to suggest that women have to look like rabbits even to merit that honour is quite something.The sales of these products – as often as not to women – prove what Dworkin always said about pornography: that it dehumanises women. And few mainstream pornography brands do that as blatantly as Playboy. It's one thing to reduce women to masturbation objects (and I have no problem with masturbation. After all, it's everyone's favourite hobby, to paraphrase Woody Allen.) But to suggest that women have to look like rabbits even to merit that honour is quite something.
In 1988, the last Playboy club shut because it was no longer profitable. But proving that progress is not always forwards, the clubs started to reopen about two decades later and British Vogue, in fact, recently held a party at the London branch.In 1988, the last Playboy club shut because it was no longer profitable. But proving that progress is not always forwards, the clubs started to reopen about two decades later and British Vogue, in fact, recently held a party at the London branch.
It is well past time to call bullshit on this alliance between fashion and Playboy. If women want to make their careers out of glamour modelling, good luck to them, but to suggest that Playboy itself is somehow chic, that to ally oneself with that dud Viagra pill of a magazine is excitingly racy and that women who have achieved enormous success and fame in their fields are proving their self-worth and sexiness by posing for it is just demented.It is well past time to call bullshit on this alliance between fashion and Playboy. If women want to make their careers out of glamour modelling, good luck to them, but to suggest that Playboy itself is somehow chic, that to ally oneself with that dud Viagra pill of a magazine is excitingly racy and that women who have achieved enormous success and fame in their fields are proving their self-worth and sexiness by posing for it is just demented.
Fashion, as this column often chinstrokes, should be – and is, in its purest form – about giving people pleasure and self-expression. But too often, the women's fashion industry seems hellbent on reducing women to tired stereotypes, miserable clones and sexless sex objects. (Incidentally, Ambrosio models for Victoria's Secret, a firm that has made kazillions by doing precisely those three things.)Fashion, as this column often chinstrokes, should be – and is, in its purest form – about giving people pleasure and self-expression. But too often, the women's fashion industry seems hellbent on reducing women to tired stereotypes, miserable clones and sexless sex objects. (Incidentally, Ambrosio models for Victoria's Secret, a firm that has made kazillions by doing precisely those three things.)
Many people dismiss models as dumb and suggest that's why they model for Playboy, but that's lazy and unfair. The truth is, they're at the extreme end of a general truth that women are still told that the only validation that counts is being told you're hot, and Playboy bestows that validation. Few things make me miss Dworkin more than the sight of a wealthy and successful woman sticking a bunny tail on her backside and smiling for the camera.Many people dismiss models as dumb and suggest that's why they model for Playboy, but that's lazy and unfair. The truth is, they're at the extreme end of a general truth that women are still told that the only validation that counts is being told you're hot, and Playboy bestows that validation. Few things make me miss Dworkin more than the sight of a wealthy and successful woman sticking a bunny tail on her backside and smiling for the camera.
Post your questions to Hadley Freeman, Ask Hadley, The Guardian, Kings Place, 90 York Way, London N1 9GU. Email ask.hadley@theguardian.comPost your questions to Hadley Freeman, Ask Hadley, The Guardian, Kings Place, 90 York Way, London N1 9GU. Email ask.hadley@theguardian.com
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