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Sweets Made Only for Christmas Are Spanish Town’s Gift to Itself Sweets Made Only for Christmas Are Spanish Town’s Gift to Itself
(about 1 hour later)
ESTEPA, Spain — On Tuesday, the fifth-generation family owners of La Colchona will close a small factory here employing 15 workers.ESTEPA, Spain — On Tuesday, the fifth-generation family owners of La Colchona will close a small factory here employing 15 workers.
But rather than joining the long list of companies hurt by Spain’s economic crisis, this company has managed to raise earnings this year and plans to reopen in September, at the start of the next Christmas confectionery season.But rather than joining the long list of companies hurt by Spain’s economic crisis, this company has managed to raise earnings this year and plans to reopen in September, at the start of the next Christmas confectionery season.
The factory is part of a highly seasonal industry that underpins the economy of Estepa, home to 13,000 people. In this town, 23 companies operate what is almost a national monopoly, manufacturing 95 percent of the assortment of crumbly and sugary confections that are traditionally eaten by Spaniards around Christmas. Such sweets, which come in different shapes and flavors, from cinnamon cookies to sugarcoated almond paste, are known as polvorones in most of Spain but called mantecados in Estepa and the rest of the southern region of Andalusia.The factory is part of a highly seasonal industry that underpins the economy of Estepa, home to 13,000 people. In this town, 23 companies operate what is almost a national monopoly, manufacturing 95 percent of the assortment of crumbly and sugary confections that are traditionally eaten by Spaniards around Christmas. Such sweets, which come in different shapes and flavors, from cinnamon cookies to sugarcoated almond paste, are known as polvorones in most of Spain but called mantecados in Estepa and the rest of the southern region of Andalusia.
The industry, although only seasonal, has been a lifeline during the economic malaise that has swept Spain. In a farming region filled with olive groves, Estepa’s confectionery sector employs more than 2,000 people in the months before Christmas and indirectly provides an additional 2,500 people with supply and distribution jobs.The industry, although only seasonal, has been a lifeline during the economic malaise that has swept Spain. In a farming region filled with olive groves, Estepa’s confectionery sector employs more than 2,000 people in the months before Christmas and indirectly provides an additional 2,500 people with supply and distribution jobs.
Thanks to polvorones, Estepa has kept its jobless rate at 7 percent during the pre-Christmas months. That climbs to 14 percent during the summer months, when most of the employment comes from agriculture. In contrast, Andalusia, Spain’s largest region, now has an average jobless rate of 36 percent, which is 10 percentage points above the national average.Thanks to polvorones, Estepa has kept its jobless rate at 7 percent during the pre-Christmas months. That climbs to 14 percent during the summer months, when most of the employment comes from agriculture. In contrast, Andalusia, Spain’s largest region, now has an average jobless rate of 36 percent, which is 10 percentage points above the national average.
“As a town, we win the lottery every Christmas season,” said Miguel Fernández Baena, the mayor of Estepa.“As a town, we win the lottery every Christmas season,” said Miguel Fernández Baena, the mayor of Estepa.
While the polvorones business has been hit by falling domestic consumption and some producers are struggling, the drop in revenue from the precrisis peak level is about 15 percent, a gentler decline than that of many other Spanish goods.While the polvorones business has been hit by falling domestic consumption and some producers are struggling, the drop in revenue from the precrisis peak level is about 15 percent, a gentler decline than that of many other Spanish goods.
“Even in a crisis, people want to put something on the table to celebrate Christmas,” said Eusebio Olmedo Gamito, the president of the regulatory council of Mantecados of Estepa.“Even in a crisis, people want to put something on the table to celebrate Christmas,” said Eusebio Olmedo Gamito, the president of the regulatory council of Mantecados of Estepa.
While the confectionery sector operates for only about one-quarter of the year, its contribution extends beyond the season. Generally, the family-owned companies reinvest about 85 percent of their earnings into the local economy, helping to sustain retailing and other businesses around Estepa.While the confectionery sector operates for only about one-quarter of the year, its contribution extends beyond the season. Generally, the family-owned companies reinvest about 85 percent of their earnings into the local economy, helping to sustain retailing and other businesses around Estepa.
Still, some of the sector’s workers understandably have mixed feelings as Christmas nears.Still, some of the sector’s workers understandably have mixed feelings as Christmas nears.
“I’m happy to have had a job in the last months but sad that it’s coming to an end,” said Emilio Martos Gómez, who operates the wood-fired oven of La Colchona, which is among the smallest and oldest of Estepa’s producers. “I have to think about finding work after Christmas, but I don’t see any great prospects.”“I’m happy to have had a job in the last months but sad that it’s coming to an end,” said Emilio Martos Gómez, who operates the wood-fired oven of La Colchona, which is among the smallest and oldest of Estepa’s producers. “I have to think about finding work after Christmas, but I don’t see any great prospects.”
Estepa’s producers said they tried in the past to persuade Spaniards to eat polvorones outside the Christmas season — to no avail. And exports represent only 5 to 10 percent of the production, with most going to Latin American countries that have cultural links to Spain.Estepa’s producers said they tried in the past to persuade Spaniards to eat polvorones outside the Christmas season — to no avail. And exports represent only 5 to 10 percent of the production, with most going to Latin American countries that have cultural links to Spain.
A few companies have diversified into other confectionery, but whether that is profitable is “the hardest question,” said Marcos Galván, the fourth-generation owner of La Estepeña. His company, he said, recently experimented with some chocolate products after the holiday baking season. “So far,” he said “it has made more sense for our sector to work very intensively only during the Christmas months.”A few companies have diversified into other confectionery, but whether that is profitable is “the hardest question,” said Marcos Galván, the fourth-generation owner of La Estepeña. His company, he said, recently experimented with some chocolate products after the holiday baking season. “So far,” he said “it has made more sense for our sector to work very intensively only during the Christmas months.”
Estepa’s confectionery industry traces its roots to Arab cuisine, brought to Andalusia during the Moorish occupation, and to medieval recipes developed in Catholic convents. The sweets became a staple Christmas food only about 60 years ago, during the Franco dictatorship, when workers from agrarian Andalusia migrated to the industrial cities of northern Spain, taking with them their Christmas delicacies.Estepa’s confectionery industry traces its roots to Arab cuisine, brought to Andalusia during the Moorish occupation, and to medieval recipes developed in Catholic convents. The sweets became a staple Christmas food only about 60 years ago, during the Franco dictatorship, when workers from agrarian Andalusia migrated to the industrial cities of northern Spain, taking with them their Christmas delicacies.
Today, polvorones are as ubiquitous as mince pies in Britain, the cakelike panettone in Italy or the fruit cakelike stollen in Germany. Estepa produces 18,000 tons of confectionery — roughly 300 grams for every Spaniard — generating revenue of about 40 million euros (about $55 million). During Christmas, Spaniards also eat turrón, another type of confectionery that is made mostly in eastern Spain. Today, polvorones are as ubiquitous as mince pies in Britain, the cakelike panettone in Italy or the fruitcakelike stollen in Germany. Estepa produces 18,000 tons of confectionery — roughly 300 grams for every Spaniard — generating revenue of about 40 million euros (about $55 million). During Christmas, Spaniards also eat turrón, another type of confectionery that is made mostly in eastern Spain.
Estepa’s polvorones normally come in a boxed assortment, weighing one kilogram, or 2.2 pounds, and the best, handmade products cost about €27 (about $40). The standard factory-made box sells for about €4 (about $5.50), with a basic production cost of about €1.60, covering packaging and the four key ingredients: flour, sugar, cinnamon and lard. Almonds are often added. Lard helped make polvorones a Christmas specialty, because families look to recycle pig’s fat after the traditional slaughtering in November.Estepa’s polvorones normally come in a boxed assortment, weighing one kilogram, or 2.2 pounds, and the best, handmade products cost about €27 (about $40). The standard factory-made box sells for about €4 (about $5.50), with a basic production cost of about €1.60, covering packaging and the four key ingredients: flour, sugar, cinnamon and lard. Almonds are often added. Lard helped make polvorones a Christmas specialty, because families look to recycle pig’s fat after the traditional slaughtering in November.
In the run-up to Christmas, La Estepeña has 250 factory workers. The rest of the year, it keeps five workers to maintain the factory’s equipment, as well as 17 others in management and administration.In the run-up to Christmas, La Estepeña has 250 factory workers. The rest of the year, it keeps five workers to maintain the factory’s equipment, as well as 17 others in management and administration.
Like most others, the factory operates several shifts, six days a week, during the peak production. Mr. Galván said some employees ended up working as much as 72 hours in one week, earning more for the extra hours. Spain’s normal working week is 40 hours.Like most others, the factory operates several shifts, six days a week, during the peak production. Mr. Galván said some employees ended up working as much as 72 hours in one week, earning more for the extra hours. Spain’s normal working week is 40 hours.
Estepa’s factories pay workers about €8 ($10.95), for regular working hours and 20 percent more for extra hours. Spain’s minimum monthly wage is €753 (about $1,029).Estepa’s factories pay workers about €8 ($10.95), for regular working hours and 20 percent more for extra hours. Spain’s minimum monthly wage is €753 (about $1,029).
“I’m keen to work all the extra hours that I can,” said Pepi Ales, 53, who has packaged polvorones since she was 17. “Christmas is a real celebration because that’s also when the money comes in.”“I’m keen to work all the extra hours that I can,” said Pepi Ales, 53, who has packaged polvorones since she was 17. “Christmas is a real celebration because that’s also when the money comes in.”
On the factory floors of Estepa, the workers, most of them women, have done the same job for decades. Women represent 85 percent of the sector’s employees, who work on contracts defined by Spanish labor law as “fixed discontinuous” — in other words, a steady job but only for a limited period each year.On the factory floors of Estepa, the workers, most of them women, have done the same job for decades. Women represent 85 percent of the sector’s employees, who work on contracts defined by Spanish labor law as “fixed discontinuous” — in other words, a steady job but only for a limited period each year.
Traditionally, such work has allowed Estepa’s women to supplement the family income toward the end of the year, while still spending most of the year looking after their home and children. Since 2008 and the start of the financial crisis, however, “this work has changed from being an extra help to becoming the main earnings, if not the only earnings, for a lot of households,” said Rafael Fernández, the secretary of the regulatory body that oversees the sector.Traditionally, such work has allowed Estepa’s women to supplement the family income toward the end of the year, while still spending most of the year looking after their home and children. Since 2008 and the start of the financial crisis, however, “this work has changed from being an extra help to becoming the main earnings, if not the only earnings, for a lot of households,” said Rafael Fernández, the secretary of the regulatory body that oversees the sector.
Emilio Pin Arboledas, a lawyer specializing in labor rules in Castellón, in eastern Spain, said fixed discontinuous contracts had been “one of the few clear successes of Spanish labor law and essential for our cyclical economy.”Emilio Pin Arboledas, a lawyer specializing in labor rules in Castellón, in eastern Spain, said fixed discontinuous contracts had been “one of the few clear successes of Spanish labor law and essential for our cyclical economy.”
“This work really now feels like a Christmas miracle,” said Carmen Sánchez, 58, who started wrapping confectionery 40 years ago. “What else could somebody like me possibly hope to be doing, when even 20-year-olds with a great education cannot find any work in our country?”“This work really now feels like a Christmas miracle,” said Carmen Sánchez, 58, who started wrapping confectionery 40 years ago. “What else could somebody like me possibly hope to be doing, when even 20-year-olds with a great education cannot find any work in our country?”