This article is from the source 'bbc' and was first published or seen on . It last changed over 40 days ago and won't be checked again for changes.
You can find the current article at its original source at http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-25777312
The article has changed 2 times. There is an RSS feed of changes available.
Previous version
1
Next version
Version 0 | Version 1 |
---|---|
Tracking down a missing dog in Mali's corrupt capital | Tracking down a missing dog in Mali's corrupt capital |
(35 minutes later) | |
In Mali, as in many countries, bribery and corruption are a way of life. Want to pass your school exams? Don't bother studying hard, you'd do better saving up! You can buy your baccalaureate for $500 (£300). So when a policeman rings up, I am suspicious. | In Mali, as in many countries, bribery and corruption are a way of life. Want to pass your school exams? Don't bother studying hard, you'd do better saving up! You can buy your baccalaureate for $500 (£300). So when a policeman rings up, I am suspicious. |
The voice on the end of the phone is deep and mysterious. | The voice on the end of the phone is deep and mysterious. |
''My name is Lieutenant Gakou. I found the dog hiding under a container on my forecourt. I had him taken to the gendarmerie canine unit. I can help you get him back.'' | ''My name is Lieutenant Gakou. I found the dog hiding under a container on my forecourt. I had him taken to the gendarmerie canine unit. I can help you get him back.'' |
The runaway mutt, Kerouac, is not even mine. He came into my life - and ran out of it - two months ago. He and his French owner, Stephane, had parked their camper in my street for a week. | The runaway mutt, Kerouac, is not even mine. He came into my life - and ran out of it - two months ago. He and his French owner, Stephane, had parked their camper in my street for a week. |
Despite the risk of kidnapping by al-Qaeda, there is still a breed of traveller that defies warnings by various governments to churn through this region in old lorries. | Despite the risk of kidnapping by al-Qaeda, there is still a breed of traveller that defies warnings by various governments to churn through this region in old lorries. |
Stephane and Kerouac were part of such a convoy. Except that on the day his party set off Kerouac was nowhere to be found. Hostage to a hormonal high, he had apparently run off with a pack of local hounds. Stephane left Mali in floods of tears. | |
The mean streets of Bamako are no place for a bumptious slobber pot who sleeps with his owner and cries when he is left on the wrong side of a door. | The mean streets of Bamako are no place for a bumptious slobber pot who sleeps with his owner and cries when he is left on the wrong side of a door. |
In Mali keeping a pet is almost unheard of. Children throw stones at dogs and both grow up in fear of one another. | In Mali keeping a pet is almost unheard of. Children throw stones at dogs and both grow up in fear of one another. |
Having hung up on Lt Gakou and his apparent bad intentions, I am suddenly struck with remorse. I have visions of the fluffy black-and-white setter cowering in confused terror in a filthy dog pound. | Having hung up on Lt Gakou and his apparent bad intentions, I am suddenly struck with remorse. I have visions of the fluffy black-and-white setter cowering in confused terror in a filthy dog pound. |
I cannot bear it. I decide I need to find the gendarmerie dog unit. | I cannot bear it. I decide I need to find the gendarmerie dog unit. |
Bamako puts up its usual obstacle course of potholes, tides of motor-scooters, fleeing chickens, children begging at junctions and donkeys pulling impossible loads. | Bamako puts up its usual obstacle course of potholes, tides of motor-scooters, fleeing chickens, children begging at junctions and donkeys pulling impossible loads. |
But eventually, in a distant southern suburb, I find the unit and its chief, Lieutenant Boh, who takes me to see Kerouac. | But eventually, in a distant southern suburb, I find the unit and its chief, Lieutenant Boh, who takes me to see Kerouac. |
The hound is looking his usual floppy and placid self - thin but calm and with only a torn ear to show for his run-in with the local dog pack. | The hound is looking his usual floppy and placid self - thin but calm and with only a torn ear to show for his run-in with the local dog pack. |
Then comes the bit I have been expecting: times are hard. As I can see, Kerouac is in good condition. But he is a large animal with a big appetite and Lt Boh has fed him for 49 days out of his own pocket. | Then comes the bit I have been expecting: times are hard. As I can see, Kerouac is in good condition. But he is a large animal with a big appetite and Lt Boh has fed him for 49 days out of his own pocket. |
Daily visits by a vet have been needed. And the grand total? 200,000 CFA francs (about $500, or £300). | Daily visits by a vet have been needed. And the grand total? 200,000 CFA francs (about $500, or £300). |
I do not believe for a moment that Lt Boh has forked out for Kerouac. | I do not believe for a moment that Lt Boh has forked out for Kerouac. |
I get back in the taxi, ponder my options, and decide to call back Lt Gakou. | I get back in the taxi, ponder my options, and decide to call back Lt Gakou. |
He is mortified because I never asked him to take me to the dog pound. But when I mention the bounty money, he says: ''Meet me at my office in 30 minutes.'' | He is mortified because I never asked him to take me to the dog pound. But when I mention the bounty money, he says: ''Meet me at my office in 30 minutes.'' |
Which is how I find myself, at the end of this shaggy dog story, sitting face to face with Lt Gakou's boss, the director-general of Mali's national gendarmerie. | Which is how I find myself, at the end of this shaggy dog story, sitting face to face with Lt Gakou's boss, the director-general of Mali's national gendarmerie. |
Colonel Diamou Keita's bread and butter is Islamists, secessionists, suicide bombers, cocaine trafficking and murder. | Colonel Diamou Keita's bread and butter is Islamists, secessionists, suicide bombers, cocaine trafficking and murder. |
"It is only about a dog,'' I stutter, feeling that I am a canine whisker from being locked up for wasting the gendarmerie's time. | "It is only about a dog,'' I stutter, feeling that I am a canine whisker from being locked up for wasting the gendarmerie's time. |
But I need not have worried. It turns out Lt Gakou is the colonel's chief of protocol. Both he and his boss are proud, dog-loving Malian officers of the law. | But I need not have worried. It turns out Lt Gakou is the colonel's chief of protocol. Both he and his boss are proud, dog-loving Malian officers of the law. |
An extremely brief phone call is made and I am sent back to the canine unit to collect Kerouac. A sheepish Lt Boh asks me to sign a note stating I have received the dog in good condition, at no charge. | An extremely brief phone call is made and I am sent back to the canine unit to collect Kerouac. A sheepish Lt Boh asks me to sign a note stating I have received the dog in good condition, at no charge. |
Kerouac comes bounding out of his kennel and dives into the collar I have bought him. Stephane flies over from France. | Kerouac comes bounding out of his kennel and dives into the collar I have bought him. Stephane flies over from France. |
The two of them spend a further week with me here in Bamako, before heading off to Mauritania on another On The Road adventure. | |
So perhaps not every Malian in authority is corrupt? | So perhaps not every Malian in authority is corrupt? |
"We all have to find ways to survive. Some of us are better at it than others," explained Lt Gakou. | "We all have to find ways to survive. Some of us are better at it than others," explained Lt Gakou. |
He apparently spends more time selling second-hand cars from the forecourt where Kerouac was found, than minding his boss's diary. Survival, I suppose, after all he does have eight children. | He apparently spends more time selling second-hand cars from the forecourt where Kerouac was found, than minding his boss's diary. Survival, I suppose, after all he does have eight children. |
And sure enough, the lieutenant does want something for his trouble. Could I arrange for someone in Britain, for a fee, to foster his youngest child, 11-year-old Moussa? I explain that I do not think fostering works like that. | And sure enough, the lieutenant does want something for his trouble. Could I arrange for someone in Britain, for a fee, to foster his youngest child, 11-year-old Moussa? I explain that I do not think fostering works like that. |
"Oh but it does," he replies. "I already have seven children studying in Europe." | "Oh but it does," he replies. "I already have seven children studying in Europe." |
From Our Own Correspondent: Listen online or download the podcast. | From Our Own Correspondent: Listen online or download the podcast. |
BBC Radio 4: Saturdays at 11:30 and some Thursdays at 11:00 | BBC Radio 4: Saturdays at 11:30 and some Thursdays at 11:00 |
BBC World Service: Short editions Monday-Friday - see World Service programme schedule. | BBC World Service: Short editions Monday-Friday - see World Service programme schedule. |
Follow @BBCNewsMagazine on Twitter and on Facebook | Follow @BBCNewsMagazine on Twitter and on Facebook |
Previous version
1
Next version