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| Summer of Riesling: it's time to embrace this unsung hero | Summer of Riesling: it's time to embrace this unsung hero |
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| It’s been called the world’s most undervalued grape. If you’re not a riesling drinker – and many of us aren’t – this is the time to start. Shelve your go-to white and participate in the Summer of Riesling. | It’s been called the world’s most undervalued grape. If you’re not a riesling drinker – and many of us aren’t – this is the time to start. Shelve your go-to white and participate in the Summer of Riesling. |
| If you’re the kind of person who thinks an Alsatian flute is some kind of dog whistle, chances are this event wasn’t on your radar. Now in its fourth year in Australia, the concept was imported from the US, where it was invented by New York restaurateur Paul Grieco whose philosophy couldn’t be more simple: “By drinking riesling, you become a better person.” | If you’re the kind of person who thinks an Alsatian flute is some kind of dog whistle, chances are this event wasn’t on your radar. Now in its fourth year in Australia, the concept was imported from the US, where it was invented by New York restaurateur Paul Grieco whose philosophy couldn’t be more simple: “By drinking riesling, you become a better person.” |
| His aim is equally plain: to get people to drink more riesling. To this end, summer sees two months of tastings, dinners and promotions across Australia: from Mona in Hobart to the Print Hall in Perth, and a pop-up bar in Sydney. Last year 3,000 consumers attended more than 40 events. | His aim is equally plain: to get people to drink more riesling. To this end, summer sees two months of tastings, dinners and promotions across Australia: from Mona in Hobart to the Print Hall in Perth, and a pop-up bar in Sydney. Last year 3,000 consumers attended more than 40 events. |
| But if everyone loves the stuff so much, why does it need a leg-up? And after four years of heavy riesling promotion, isn’t it time to let people drink their poison in peace? | But if everyone loves the stuff so much, why does it need a leg-up? And after four years of heavy riesling promotion, isn’t it time to let people drink their poison in peace? |
| It seems the great grape of Germany and Alsace does still need a helping hand in Australia. What was once the country’s favourite white accounted for just 3.5% of last year’s white-grape crush. The mere sight of it in some circles still raises eyebrows, as though it might pollute the Esky ice or cramp the savvy blanc’s style. Sceptics appear to be haunted by a long-held suspicion of tall bottles, gothic script, indecipherable labels and the threat of ambush from unwanted sweetness. | It seems the great grape of Germany and Alsace does still need a helping hand in Australia. What was once the country’s favourite white accounted for just 3.5% of last year’s white-grape crush. The mere sight of it in some circles still raises eyebrows, as though it might pollute the Esky ice or cramp the savvy blanc’s style. Sceptics appear to be haunted by a long-held suspicion of tall bottles, gothic script, indecipherable labels and the threat of ambush from unwanted sweetness. |
| At the opposite end of the spectrum you’ll find a host of winemakers, critics and sommeliers who think riesling irresistible. It’s like Glenn McGrath in his heyday, they argue: line, length and sheer class. And if you keep putting it in the right zone, the commentators say, the opposition will nibble one eventually. But unlike the batsmen tormented by McGrath, many Aussie drinkers have remained unmoved. | At the opposite end of the spectrum you’ll find a host of winemakers, critics and sommeliers who think riesling irresistible. It’s like Glenn McGrath in his heyday, they argue: line, length and sheer class. And if you keep putting it in the right zone, the commentators say, the opposition will nibble one eventually. But unlike the batsmen tormented by McGrath, many Aussie drinkers have remained unmoved. |
| Which is odd, because we’re on a bloody good wicket. Wonderful imports continue to flow in, and our land is peppered with top-notch growing areas: Canberra, Tasmania, Henty in Victoria, WA’s Great Southern, and Clare and Eden Valley in South Australia. Even better, it’s not rare to find great wines from top producers at less than $20. | Which is odd, because we’re on a bloody good wicket. Wonderful imports continue to flow in, and our land is peppered with top-notch growing areas: Canberra, Tasmania, Henty in Victoria, WA’s Great Southern, and Clare and Eden Valley in South Australia. Even better, it’s not rare to find great wines from top producers at less than $20. |
| Perhaps its greatest virtue is that riesling – unlike Glenn McGrath – is the ultimate all-rounder. Bright, refreshing aromas often belie a steely core, with pure, intense fruit from crunchy green apples through zesty citrus to fleshy peach and beyond. Delicious young, it has the potential to age as well as the finest reds. Its high natural acidity means it can range from light to full bodied, and bone dry to lusciously sweet. A warm country with delicious seafood and a fusion cooking culture should be licking its lips. | Perhaps its greatest virtue is that riesling – unlike Glenn McGrath – is the ultimate all-rounder. Bright, refreshing aromas often belie a steely core, with pure, intense fruit from crunchy green apples through zesty citrus to fleshy peach and beyond. Delicious young, it has the potential to age as well as the finest reds. Its high natural acidity means it can range from light to full bodied, and bone dry to lusciously sweet. A warm country with delicious seafood and a fusion cooking culture should be licking its lips. |
| Winemakers are sometimes guilty of looking down on consumers for their choices, and presuming they won’t be interested in something new, or bottles they enjoy. All the more kudos to those keeping the flag flying. Riesling’s a good cause; give it a go and be all the better for it. | |
| Three to get you going: | Three to get you going: |
| Dry: Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling 2013 $20 | Dry: Tim Adams Clare Valley Riesling 2013 $20 |
| Clare riesling at its slatey, lime zesty best. Its clean, long finish makes it a wine to unwind with: a pairing with calamari with a squeeze of lemon would be spot on. | Clare riesling at its slatey, lime zesty best. Its clean, long finish makes it a wine to unwind with: a pairing with calamari with a squeeze of lemon would be spot on. |
| Off-Dry: Xabregas Estate Riesling 2011 $23 | Off-Dry: Xabregas Estate Riesling 2011 $23 |
| Mount Barker’s Xabregas is up to exciting stuff with riesling. A good intro, this: floral and quite full with lavender, lemon and spice, plus a good lick of sweetness balanced by crisp acidity. Drink with Thai crab cakes. | Mount Barker’s Xabregas is up to exciting stuff with riesling. A good intro, this: floral and quite full with lavender, lemon and spice, plus a good lick of sweetness balanced by crisp acidity. Drink with Thai crab cakes. |
| Sweet: Heggies Vineyard Botrytis Riesling 2012 $29 | Sweet: Heggies Vineyard Botrytis Riesling 2012 $29 |
| Yalumba makes magnificent Eden Valley riesling under its Pewsey Vale and Heggies labels. This stunning dessert wine shows apricots, lime marmalade and honey with an impeccable line of acidity. | Yalumba makes magnificent Eden Valley riesling under its Pewsey Vale and Heggies labels. This stunning dessert wine shows apricots, lime marmalade and honey with an impeccable line of acidity. |
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