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Marc Jacobs closes New York fashion week Marc Jacobs closes New York fashion week
(about 9 hours later)
Marc Jacobs’ autumn/winter 2014 show ended New York fashion week on Thursday evening. Always a season game changer, this show was particularly anticipated. Jacobs left his role as artistic director of Louis Vuitton – one he had held for 16 years – last October to concentrate on his own brand. This show was a litmus test on where the designer plans to take the brand that bears his name.Marc Jacobs’ autumn/winter 2014 show ended New York fashion week on Thursday evening. Always a season game changer, this show was particularly anticipated. Jacobs left his role as artistic director of Louis Vuitton – one he had held for 16 years – last October to concentrate on his own brand. This show was a litmus test on where the designer plans to take the brand that bears his name.
White – the colour of blank canvases and new beginnings – dominated. The New York Armoury space came with clouds covering the catwalk and a single white lily was on the seat of every guest. The first model, with a bobbed hair style, wore a simple white jersey dress to her calves, teamed with slim trousers and ankle boots. Others followed wearing shorter long-sleeved tunics with trousers printed with the pattern of sand dunes and cropped bomber jackets with giant sleeves made of fur in the lightest of shades.White – the colour of blank canvases and new beginnings – dominated. The New York Armoury space came with clouds covering the catwalk and a single white lily was on the seat of every guest. The first model, with a bobbed hair style, wore a simple white jersey dress to her calves, teamed with slim trousers and ankle boots. Others followed wearing shorter long-sleeved tunics with trousers printed with the pattern of sand dunes and cropped bomber jackets with giant sleeves made of fur in the lightest of shades.
Eveningwear consisted of boldly sequinned two pieces and a beautifully embroidered dress of appliqué flowers. The mood of a clean slate and new era was amplified by a soundtrack of actor Jessica Lange repeating the phrase “happy days are here again, the clouds are clear again”. Jacobs said he wanted the soundtrack to “sound like a mantra - the kind of thing you might hear at a spa”.Eveningwear consisted of boldly sequinned two pieces and a beautifully embroidered dress of appliqué flowers. The mood of a clean slate and new era was amplified by a soundtrack of actor Jessica Lange repeating the phrase “happy days are here again, the clouds are clear again”. Jacobs said he wanted the soundtrack to “sound like a mantra - the kind of thing you might hear at a spa”.
The recharge that comes with a spa day works with this collection, The recharge that comes with a spa day works with this collection,
which was pure and stripped back. While there were shades of space age which was pure and stripped back. While there were shades of space age
sixties designers including Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin and even the sixties designers including Andre Courreges, Pierre Cardin and even the
razzle dazzle of Emilio Pucci, the clothes had their own Jacobs-branded razzle dazzle of Emilio Pucci, the clothes had their own Jacobs-branded
futurism. futurism. Others, including Kim Kardashian’s 18-year-old sister Kendall Jenner – unrecognisable in her regulation wig – followed. Outifits included shorter long-sleeved tunics with trousers printed with the pattern of sand dunes and cropped bomber jackets with giant sleeves made of fur in the lightest of shades.
There was an oddness to them that flirted with the ugly – ribbed knitted trousers would certainly take a brave soul – but always felt new. Culotte shapes – a kind of sci-fi jodphur, as it were –There was an oddness to them that flirted with the ugly – ribbed knitted trousers would certainly take a brave soul – but always felt new. Culotte shapes – a kind of sci-fi jodphur, as it were –
were quirky, and a series of party dresses towards the end, with layers were quirky, and a series of party dresses towards the end, with layers
of chiffon cut like petals, gave a pretty twist to pared-back. of chiffon cut like petals, gave a pretty twist to pared-back.
Backstage,Backstage,
the 50-year-old designer - wearing striped Adidas trousers and a fitted the 50-year-old designer - wearing striped Adidas trousers and a fitted
sweater - said “serenity” was a key word for the collection and that sweater - said “serenity” was a key word for the collection and that
clouds had an influence beyond the set. “There was the inspiration of anclouds had an influence beyond the set. “There was the inspiration of an
artist who we love, Urs Fischer,” he said, “and that beautiful neutral artist who we love, Urs Fischer,” he said, “and that beautiful neutral
ombre that clouds get.”ombre that clouds get.”
While Jacobs said he and British stylist While Jacobs said he and British stylist
Katie Grand, who he works with closely, don’t think about “if it’s Katie Grand, who he works with closely, don’t think about “if it’s
practical, if it’s commercial” when working on a collection, this new practical, if it’s commercial” when working on a collection, this new
era has significant financial potential. Marc Jacobs the brand - which era has significant financial potential. Marc Jacobs the brand - which
Jacobs set up in 1993, with Robert Duffy who is now CEO - is majority Jacobs set up in 1993, with Robert Duffy who is now CEO - is majority
owned by LVMH, the conglomerate that also owns Louis Vuitton.owned by LVMH, the conglomerate that also owns Louis Vuitton.
Jacobs’Jacobs’
exit from the French house to give his all here is widely believed to exit from the French house to give his all here is widely believed to
precede the brand going public within three years. With annual sales precede the brand going public within three years. With annual sales
estimated between £410 and £820m, and a portfolio of sub-brands that estimated between £410 and £820m, and a portfolio of sub-brands that
includes cheaper line Marc by Marc Jacobs and a new beauty division, theincludes cheaper line Marc by Marc Jacobs and a new beauty division, the
future’s bright. This collection only underlines that fact. future’s bright. This collection only underlines that fact.
EarlierEarlier
in the day, Calvin Klein brought a folky take to the brand’s trademark in the day, Calvin Klein brought a folky take to the brand’s trademark
minimalism. Texture was big in Francisco Costa’s collection with a stiffminimalism. Texture was big in Francisco Costa’s collection with a stiff
mohair used across dresses, coats and jackets. Hemlines fell around mohair used across dresses, coats and jackets. Hemlines fell around
mid-calf - emerging as the length of the week - and skirts were worn mid-calf - emerging as the length of the week - and skirts were worn
with flat laced boot that came up to meet it.with flat laced boot that came up to meet it.
A stiff dress shape with T-shirtA stiff dress shape with T-shirt
sleeves and a gently flared skirt was a standout piece in ivory. sleeves and a gently flared skirt was a standout piece in ivory.
Starting with a monochrome colour palate, pretty autumnal shades of mossStarting with a monochrome colour palate, pretty autumnal shades of moss
and rust were appealing on hip-length jacket with bell sleeves. and rust were appealing on hip-length jacket with bell sleeves.
Knitwear was also strong and used chunky yarns for an almost handmade finish.Knitwear was also strong and used chunky yarns for an almost handmade finish.