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Mahiki's fur ban: will it make any difference? Mahiki's fur ban: will it make any difference?
(about 3 hours later)
On Thursday night, the London nightclub Mahiki opened its doors, as usual, to an array of minor celebrities and rich kids. Except this time anyone who walked up to the door would have seen a neon side outside with the word "FUR", and a slash through it.On Thursday night, the London nightclub Mahiki opened its doors, as usual, to an array of minor celebrities and rich kids. Except this time anyone who walked up to the door would have seen a neon side outside with the word "FUR", and a slash through it.
Having teamed up with the animal rights group Peta, the club had decided to take a stance on fur. "We hope that other clubs follow Mahiki's positive example by going fur-free as well," says Peta's Hannah Levitt. The group thinks this is the first high-profile fur ban in the UK. In the US last September, West Hollywood implemented a city-wide ban on fur. It is home to some of the biggest designer names and department stores, so the move was seen a big step forward for the anti-fur campaign, just as fur seems to be becoming more popular, on and off the catwalk. Having teamed up with the animal rights group Peta, the club had decided to take a stance on fur. "We hope that other clubs follow Mahiki's positive example by going fur-free as well," says Peta's Hannah Levitt. The group thinks this is the first high-profile fur ban in the UK. In the US last September, West Hollywood implemented a city-wide ban on fur. It is home to some of the biggest designer names and department stores, so the move was seen a big step forward for the anti-fur campaign, just as fur seems to be becoming more popular again, on and off the catwalk.
Will the Mahiki ban make a difference? "Well, seeing as we're coming into spring I can't imagine it will be terribly effective," says the fashion writer Melanie Rickey. "But what is interesting is the age group and wealth level of the people who attend Mahiki, so it is a good place to target and educate."Will the Mahiki ban make a difference? "Well, seeing as we're coming into spring I can't imagine it will be terribly effective," says the fashion writer Melanie Rickey. "But what is interesting is the age group and wealth level of the people who attend Mahiki, so it is a good place to target and educate."
Younger people, in general, she says, often have a different attitude to fur than those who grew up exposed to those famous "rather go naked than wear fur" adverts Peta ran in the 1990s. Fur-wearing celebrities, including Rihanna, Beyoncé and Kate Moss have an impact but a lot of it is fuelled by vintage fashion. "All the young women I know who wear fur, it belonged to their grandmother," says Rickey. "They think they're being sustainable because instead of something dying for nothing, they're making use of the garment."Younger people, in general, she says, often have a different attitude to fur than those who grew up exposed to those famous "rather go naked than wear fur" adverts Peta ran in the 1990s. Fur-wearing celebrities, including Rihanna, Beyoncé and Kate Moss have an impact but a lot of it is fuelled by vintage fashion. "All the young women I know who wear fur, it belonged to their grandmother," says Rickey. "They think they're being sustainable because instead of something dying for nothing, they're making use of the garment."
Words like "sustainability" and "renewable" have started to be used by the fur industry, who are trying to position fur as an ecological and ethical choice, pointing out that textile manufacturing uses large amounts of water and chemicals, while making fake fur requires petroleum. However, one study by a Dutch environmental research group found mink fur production fared worse in 17 out of 18 categories that measure environmental impact. Words like "sustainability" and "renewable" have started to be used by the fur industry, who are trying to position fur as an ecological and ethical choice, pointing out that textile manufacturing uses large amounts of water and chemicals, while making fake fur requires petroleum. However, one study by a Dutch environmental research group found mink fur production fared poorly in 17 out of 18 categories that measure environmental impact.
A piece on fur in Vogue in September found that for the current autumn/winter season, 69% of designers had used fur in some way in their collections, and it certainly seems more visible than before. At the recent Milan shows for next autumn/winter, a Guardian review noted that "fur was everywhere this season", including furry trousers, with one designer, Roberto Cavalli, featuring it in every look. But Rickey says she doesn't think it's quite right to call it a comeback because fur never really went away. "Every winter there's a story about fur but there are lots of countries which don't have an issue with it – Italy, Russia, some of the new wealthier states such as Azerbaijan – and as a result designers have always made fur items for those people." But there are lots of really good alternatives now, she adds. "There is a great label called Shrimps, and you can get the look without killing an animal, so why wouldn't you?"A piece on fur in Vogue in September found that for the current autumn/winter season, 69% of designers had used fur in some way in their collections, and it certainly seems more visible than before. At the recent Milan shows for next autumn/winter, a Guardian review noted that "fur was everywhere this season", including furry trousers, with one designer, Roberto Cavalli, featuring it in every look. But Rickey says she doesn't think it's quite right to call it a comeback because fur never really went away. "Every winter there's a story about fur but there are lots of countries which don't have an issue with it – Italy, Russia, some of the new wealthier states such as Azerbaijan – and as a result designers have always made fur items for those people." But there are lots of really good alternatives now, she adds. "There is a great label called Shrimps, and you can get the look without killing an animal, so why wouldn't you?"