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In France, a Quest to Convert a Sea Snail Plague Into a Culinary Pleasure In France, a Quest to Convert a Sea Snail Plague Into a Culinary Pleasure
(about 13 hours later)
CANCALE, France — On this storm-weathered tip of Mont Saint-Michel Bay, the sweeping tides have washed away the line between land and sea. Fishermen drive their wheeled boats straight into the bay to gather their harvest: an assortment of shellfish prized all over France.CANCALE, France — On this storm-weathered tip of Mont Saint-Michel Bay, the sweeping tides have washed away the line between land and sea. Fishermen drive their wheeled boats straight into the bay to gather their harvest: an assortment of shellfish prized all over France.
But now they are finding their nets weighed down by an invasive species: the crépidule, or Atlantic slipper shell, a curious type of sea snail that has spread from the East Coast of the United States.But now they are finding their nets weighed down by an invasive species: the crépidule, or Atlantic slipper shell, a curious type of sea snail that has spread from the East Coast of the United States.
Oyster and mussel producers here have watched helplessly as the colony has taken over their beautiful bay, flush with phytoplankton, the micro-organisms that make it a haven for all manner of shellfish and tint the water turquoise.Oyster and mussel producers here have watched helplessly as the colony has taken over their beautiful bay, flush with phytoplankton, the micro-organisms that make it a haven for all manner of shellfish and tint the water turquoise.
Enter Pierrick Clément, a local entrepreneur who looked at the encroaching Atlantic slipper shell and asked an unthinkable question in a town that has built its livelihood on bountiful seafood: Would people eat the insidious creature?Enter Pierrick Clément, a local entrepreneur who looked at the encroaching Atlantic slipper shell and asked an unthinkable question in a town that has built its livelihood on bountiful seafood: Would people eat the insidious creature?
“As a businessman, I see an opportunity here,” he said, after extricating a snail, still alive, from its shell with a knife.“As a businessman, I see an opportunity here,” he said, after extricating a snail, still alive, from its shell with a knife.
The slipper shells, which he affectionately calls “the problem,” could become a delicacy — served either raw or cooked, he said.The slipper shells, which he affectionately calls “the problem,” could become a delicacy — served either raw or cooked, he said.
The snail, a sliver of orange flesh clamped tightly within a shell, tastes somewhat like whelks and scallops, but it has never caught on as common fare.The snail, a sliver of orange flesh clamped tightly within a shell, tastes somewhat like whelks and scallops, but it has never caught on as common fare.
“It is considered to be a parasite,” said Frederic Baslé, who owns a seafood cart by the shore at Port de la Houle.“It is considered to be a parasite,” said Frederic Baslé, who owns a seafood cart by the shore at Port de la Houle.
The community of Cancale now finds itself torn between disgust and relief at Mr. Clément’s project to fish and sell the sea snails for consumption.The community of Cancale now finds itself torn between disgust and relief at Mr. Clément’s project to fish and sell the sea snails for consumption.
After years of administrative haggling, he has coaxed local municipalities and producers to back his project and begin a campaign to rehabilitate the snail’s image. The creature has been rechristened “berlingot des mers,” a poetic term at odds with the rather vulgar nicknames it has earned here for its frenetic mode of reproduction.After years of administrative haggling, he has coaxed local municipalities and producers to back his project and begin a campaign to rehabilitate the snail’s image. The creature has been rechristened “berlingot des mers,” a poetic term at odds with the rather vulgar nicknames it has earned here for its frenetic mode of reproduction.
Mr. Clément grew up dive-fishing for oysters, abalones and sea urchins, and, like most Bretons, he had never thought of eating the ubiquitous Atlantic slipper shell. Then he found out about a mechanism that could crack open the shells of the invasive sea snails on an industrial scale without damaging the flesh, and he quickly invested a million euros in research and development.Mr. Clément grew up dive-fishing for oysters, abalones and sea urchins, and, like most Bretons, he had never thought of eating the ubiquitous Atlantic slipper shell. Then he found out about a mechanism that could crack open the shells of the invasive sea snails on an industrial scale without damaging the flesh, and he quickly invested a million euros in research and development.
It was not the first time that Mr. Clément had seen a way to make money on unlikely food items. He grew wealthy exporting halal foie gras and unwanted duck parts that are delicacies in China.It was not the first time that Mr. Clément had seen a way to make money on unlikely food items. He grew wealthy exporting halal foie gras and unwanted duck parts that are delicacies in China.
Now he is distributing packages of frozen slipper shell flesh to stores and restaurants, and also plans to reuse the calcium-rich shells in construction material and to improve the acidic soil of his native Breton coast.Now he is distributing packages of frozen slipper shell flesh to stores and restaurants, and also plans to reuse the calcium-rich shells in construction material and to improve the acidic soil of his native Breton coast.
His pilot factory, among the bustling oyster plants in nearby Le Vivier-sur-mer, ships to a few stores and restaurants in France, Spain and Germany.His pilot factory, among the bustling oyster plants in nearby Le Vivier-sur-mer, ships to a few stores and restaurants in France, Spain and Germany.
Eventually he hopes to process as much as 100,000 tons of slipper shells per year — enough to offset their growth in the bays of Mont Saint-Michel, Saint-Brieuc and Morlaix.Eventually he hopes to process as much as 100,000 tons of slipper shells per year — enough to offset their growth in the bays of Mont Saint-Michel, Saint-Brieuc and Morlaix.
Mr. Clément aims to sell the slipper shells primarily to the American, Japanese and Chinese markets, where they might have a less pesky reputation than in France.Mr. Clément aims to sell the slipper shells primarily to the American, Japanese and Chinese markets, where they might have a less pesky reputation than in France.
Marketing the slipper shell at home, however, presents a real challenge: persuading a country — and a region — anchored in culinary tradition to adopt a new ingredient.Marketing the slipper shell at home, however, presents a real challenge: persuading a country — and a region — anchored in culinary tradition to adopt a new ingredient.
“People here eat traditional products,” he said, referring to local staples like mussels, scallops and the native flat oysters, which have been produced on the Breton coast for centuries. “Stereotypes are hard to fight.”“People here eat traditional products,” he said, referring to local staples like mussels, scallops and the native flat oysters, which have been produced on the Breton coast for centuries. “Stereotypes are hard to fight.”
Even worse for a fruit de mer — a French term that designates all edible seafaring creatures besides fish — “the shell is just not that pretty,” Mr. Clément added. Even worse for a fruit de mer — a French term that designates all edible seafaring creatures besides fish — “the shell is just not that pretty,” said Mr. Baslé, the seafood cart owner.
The slipper shells have been prevalent in Brittany since the 1970s and were brought here by ships carrying oysters, though local lore has it they were first brought to nearby Normandy in 1944, stuck to the hulls of British Allied ships.The slipper shells have been prevalent in Brittany since the 1970s and were brought here by ships carrying oysters, though local lore has it they were first brought to nearby Normandy in 1944, stuck to the hulls of British Allied ships.
In Brittany they latch on to mussels, oysters and scallops, filching their phytoplankton and crippling their growth, while driving away native species of fish and algae. Repeated extermination campaigns have been futile.In Brittany they latch on to mussels, oysters and scallops, filching their phytoplankton and crippling their growth, while driving away native species of fish and algae. Repeated extermination campaigns have been futile.
In their efforts to rid their stretch of coast of the slipper shells, the local authorities have scooped them out of the bay and dumped them farther out in the sea.In their efforts to rid their stretch of coast of the slipper shells, the local authorities have scooped them out of the bay and dumped them farther out in the sea.
They have also tried crushing them and scalding them in giant pots right on the fishing boats, or simply left them to dry out in heaps on the ground.They have also tried crushing them and scalding them in giant pots right on the fishing boats, or simply left them to dry out in heaps on the ground.
Notwithstanding this rough treatment, the slipper shell remains the most populous creature in the bay, growing by 10 percent per year.Notwithstanding this rough treatment, the slipper shell remains the most populous creature in the bay, growing by 10 percent per year.
Seafood producers complain that the oysters and mussels cultivated on wooden posts and racks planted near the shore are shrinking, while the yield has decreased 20 percent in 30 years.Seafood producers complain that the oysters and mussels cultivated on wooden posts and racks planted near the shore are shrinking, while the yield has decreased 20 percent in 30 years.
Mr. Clément claims that eating the slipper shells is the only realistic option for the seafood industry and the ecosystem it is built upon.Mr. Clément claims that eating the slipper shells is the only realistic option for the seafood industry and the ecosystem it is built upon.
Joseph Jambon, head of the local shellfish producers union, has agreed to share his oyster fishing boat Le Papy with Mr. Clément, who declared it the first boat in the world to willingly fish for Atlantic slipper shells.Joseph Jambon, head of the local shellfish producers union, has agreed to share his oyster fishing boat Le Papy with Mr. Clément, who declared it the first boat in the world to willingly fish for Atlantic slipper shells.
Mr. Jambon, who has a 5 percent stake in Mr. Clément’s slipper shell business, said that while some seafood producers remained skeptical, a growing consensus had emerged.Mr. Jambon, who has a 5 percent stake in Mr. Clément’s slipper shell business, said that while some seafood producers remained skeptical, a growing consensus had emerged.
“Everyone wants to get the most out of their space,” said Mr. Jambon. But “what’s important,” he added, is that the slipper shells “scram and that we promote it and that our production improves.”“Everyone wants to get the most out of their space,” said Mr. Jambon. But “what’s important,” he added, is that the slipper shells “scram and that we promote it and that our production improves.”
They are a poison for his oysters, and a plague for the bay, he added, but also make for a great spaghetti topping.They are a poison for his oysters, and a plague for the bay, he added, but also make for a great spaghetti topping.
Mr. Clément has other influential taste makers on his side — namely, award-winning chefs from Spain, Japan and even France.Mr. Clément has other influential taste makers on his side — namely, award-winning chefs from Spain, Japan and even France.
Among them is Gaël Orieux, an amateur deep-sea diver who regularly incorporates the “berlingot des mers” in his creations for the restaurant Auguste in Paris.Among them is Gaël Orieux, an amateur deep-sea diver who regularly incorporates the “berlingot des mers” in his creations for the restaurant Auguste in Paris.
“It tastes like seawater but is also a bit sweet,” with a bitter aftertaste that recalls hazelnuts, said Mr. Orieux, adding that the snail, “has its own identity.”“It tastes like seawater but is also a bit sweet,” with a bitter aftertaste that recalls hazelnuts, said Mr. Orieux, adding that the snail, “has its own identity.”
If more chefs agree with Mr. Orieux, the Atlantic slipper shell just might creep into French cuisine.If more chefs agree with Mr. Orieux, the Atlantic slipper shell just might creep into French cuisine.