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| 'Modelling Iranian style’: surgical alterations and the 'porn star' look | 'Modelling Iranian style’: surgical alterations and the 'porn star' look |
| (6 months later) | |
| There is a “fever for modelling” in Tehran right now, says a photographer who has been working in the field for 20 years, as the profession has become a “status marker” in a vanity-driven culture. And the look that’s in vogue among female models is far from what many would consider natural Iranian beauty. What’s in is a highly doctored, surgically altered appearance that the photographer – who asked to go by the initials “B.K.” – describes as the “porn star” look. | |
| In a society where physical beauty is highly prized, cosmetic surgery has become commonplace among the middle and upper classes. Iran reportedly has the world’s highest nose surgery rate, and those who work in front of the camera often first go under the knife. Models with the sort of doctored appearances that are in demand can be seen on the Instagram pages of Tehran bridal salons and photo studios such as Aroose Tehran (Tehran Brides), with 115,000 followers; Aliss Studio; and Azadeh Fanaee. Design houses such as Dohe Couture and RK Design also maintain Instagram pages that feature scores of images of women not in hijab, publicly acceptable Islamic dress. While Facebook and Twitter both remain censored in Iran, the authorities evidently turn a blind eye to this sort of taboo-skirting social media usage. | |
| There are few modelling agencies in Iran, so most models must go through a photographer like B.K., who runs a fashion studio from his home. His living room overflows with photographs of couture-clad women; the wings are filled with professional lighting equipment and a selection of backdrops. After photographing a model, B.K. will usually present her portfolio to various salons, boutiques, and “maisons”, retail operations often run of the proprietor’s home that sell clothing by designers who specialize in everything from wedding outfits to modern interpretations of Islamic dress. Most of B.K.’s clients are located in north Tehran’s Fereshteh district – the capital’s “Manhattan”, as he calls it. | |
| Sonia models for one of B.K.’s beauty-salon cleints. Done up as a bride, her image will appear in a poster and book that show off the salon’s hairstyling and makeup techniques. With her long, luscious jet-black hair and dark features, Sonia was recruited by B.K. at a party thrown by mutual friends. As a defender of natural beauty, he has managed to convince four of his models not to undergo nose surgery. | |
| “Everyone tells me I look so ‘Iranian,’” Sonia says. “The majority of other models get surgery, and I think that with more natural looks I can be more special – different from other models.” | “Everyone tells me I look so ‘Iranian,’” Sonia says. “The majority of other models get surgery, and I think that with more natural looks I can be more special – different from other models.” |
| For female models like Sonia who seek work outside the strictures of hijab, beauty salons and other private businesses are the prime sources of employment. Female models not in hijab are legally barred from appearing in magazines or TV commercials or on catwalks. Even fashion shows that observe hijab must receive an official permit from the ministry of culture and Islamic guidance, which is difficult to attain. Female catwalks can be attended only by other women, while male shows are not gender segregated. Male models encounter fewer restrictions generally. | For female models like Sonia who seek work outside the strictures of hijab, beauty salons and other private businesses are the prime sources of employment. Female models not in hijab are legally barred from appearing in magazines or TV commercials or on catwalks. Even fashion shows that observe hijab must receive an official permit from the ministry of culture and Islamic guidance, which is difficult to attain. Female catwalks can be attended only by other women, while male shows are not gender segregated. Male models encounter fewer restrictions generally. |
| For any female fashion beyond the bounds of hijab, “everything has to be underground”, as B.K. puts it. Working under the authorities’ radar is simply “modelling Iranian style”, he says. | For any female fashion beyond the bounds of hijab, “everything has to be underground”, as B.K. puts it. Working under the authorities’ radar is simply “modelling Iranian style”, he says. |
| The public limits on modelling extend to billboards, on which women rarely appear. Those promoting female clothing, like the ones for Hasti Fashion currently on display around northern Tehran, show only mannequins. “In the future, they may allow billboards to be more available to female models,” Sonia suggests. “There may be more openness under Rouhani.” | The public limits on modelling extend to billboards, on which women rarely appear. Those promoting female clothing, like the ones for Hasti Fashion currently on display around northern Tehran, show only mannequins. “In the future, they may allow billboards to be more available to female models,” Sonia suggests. “There may be more openness under Rouhani.” |
| Male models work with underground studios as well, but they can more freely seek work for public platforms like billboards and TV advertisements. Billboards with men in the latest designs of local brands like Hacoopian, Charme Mashad, and Novin Leather are common on the streets of Tehran. Even in hijab, a female model would not be permitted to appear in the same public advertisement. | Male models work with underground studios as well, but they can more freely seek work for public platforms like billboards and TV advertisements. Billboards with men in the latest designs of local brands like Hacoopian, Charme Mashad, and Novin Leather are common on the streets of Tehran. Even in hijab, a female model would not be permitted to appear in the same public advertisement. |
| “The only problem with male modeling is a person cannot become really famous,” B.K. says. Referring to the conservative religious-political establishment, he explains: “They say, ‘You are making a superstar’” – something that’s frowned upon. | “The only problem with male modeling is a person cannot become really famous,” B.K. says. Referring to the conservative religious-political establishment, he explains: “They say, ‘You are making a superstar’” – something that’s frowned upon. |
| Nonetheless, a few male models have become celebrities. In Tehran, the name of Hamid Fadaei often comes up. He has appeared in ads for such western brands as Zara and Fila. A recent item on the Cairo-based website Scoop Empire described him as “one of the sexiest men in the Middle East”. The first Iranian male model to gain global attention was Cameron Alborzian, who starred in Madonna’s “Express Yourself” video and became the face of Guess Jeans in 1988. | Nonetheless, a few male models have become celebrities. In Tehran, the name of Hamid Fadaei often comes up. He has appeared in ads for such western brands as Zara and Fila. A recent item on the Cairo-based website Scoop Empire described him as “one of the sexiest men in the Middle East”. The first Iranian male model to gain global attention was Cameron Alborzian, who starred in Madonna’s “Express Yourself” video and became the face of Guess Jeans in 1988. |
| Among the new generation, hazel-eyed Dana Mashalahpoor has modelled for the last year and a half. He also works with designers to create original fashion concepts at photo shoots. He says he aims to represent an “Iranian gentleman” not only in his modeling style, but in his everyday demeanour as well. Earlier this week, he emphasized the “gentleman” theme in the text accompanying a photo he published on Instagram in which he models a stylishly retro plaid jacket. | Among the new generation, hazel-eyed Dana Mashalahpoor has modelled for the last year and a half. He also works with designers to create original fashion concepts at photo shoots. He says he aims to represent an “Iranian gentleman” not only in his modeling style, but in his everyday demeanour as well. Earlier this week, he emphasized the “gentleman” theme in the text accompanying a photo he published on Instagram in which he models a stylishly retro plaid jacket. |
| “I am not just a face or a model for someone. It is more important to have a special character” says Mashalahpoor. “In Tehran, the modelling community is small. I haven’t seen anyone brand themselves as a gentleman.” | “I am not just a face or a model for someone. It is more important to have a special character” says Mashalahpoor. “In Tehran, the modelling community is small. I haven’t seen anyone brand themselves as a gentleman.” |
| Mashalahpoor has worked at fashion shows mostly in Dubai, where he has made a catwalk appearance for the luxury accessory brand Davidoff. He says he has been offered a modelling contract through a New York agency, but has decided to stay in Tehran. | Mashalahpoor has worked at fashion shows mostly in Dubai, where he has made a catwalk appearance for the luxury accessory brand Davidoff. He says he has been offered a modelling contract through a New York agency, but has decided to stay in Tehran. |
| “Even though modelling in Iran involves a lot of difficulties, I do it because I can build the high-quality standard myself,” he says. “Modelling at a high level allows you to be in a position where many people admire your character and lifestyle. In Iran, there is a lot of potential for investment in the fashion industry and that is why I will continue my career in Iran.” There’s clear evidence of that potential in north Tehran, where western brands such as Bulgari, Zara, Mango and United Colors of Benetton have opened stores. | “Even though modelling in Iran involves a lot of difficulties, I do it because I can build the high-quality standard myself,” he says. “Modelling at a high level allows you to be in a position where many people admire your character and lifestyle. In Iran, there is a lot of potential for investment in the fashion industry and that is why I will continue my career in Iran.” There’s clear evidence of that potential in north Tehran, where western brands such as Bulgari, Zara, Mango and United Colors of Benetton have opened stores. |
| As a child, Mashalahpoor was influenced by a fashion-conscious mother who loved to design clothes. He is represented exclusively by an agent, unlike most models – male and female – who are affiliated with photography studios. | |
| As a part-time model, Sonia, who is pursuing a master’s degree in hotel management, has worked with B.K. for three years. “He made it so that women could make money from their beauty. Before this, if anyone wanted a model, they would not pay them,” she says. | As a part-time model, Sonia, who is pursuing a master’s degree in hotel management, has worked with B.K. for three years. “He made it so that women could make money from their beauty. Before this, if anyone wanted a model, they would not pay them,” she says. |
| With competition running high between models, it is not uncommon for those starting out to work for free. Models who represent themselves struggle to gain the same traffic as those connected to a studio. Established models can make up to one million tomans – about £220 – for a TV advertisement, or 400,000 tomans per day for a fashion shoot. But flirting with “superstar” status is even riskier for women than it is for men. Many thus prefer to work exclusively underground, finding acclaim within the elite north Tehran fashion community. | With competition running high between models, it is not uncommon for those starting out to work for free. Models who represent themselves struggle to gain the same traffic as those connected to a studio. Established models can make up to one million tomans – about £220 – for a TV advertisement, or 400,000 tomans per day for a fashion shoot. But flirting with “superstar” status is even riskier for women than it is for men. Many thus prefer to work exclusively underground, finding acclaim within the elite north Tehran fashion community. |
| This is the case for Sonia, who finds it “fun” to be dolled up for photo shoots. She is friends with the makeup artists, and she enjoys the attention when her photos are admired by patrons of salons or others in the underground fashion scene. | This is the case for Sonia, who finds it “fun” to be dolled up for photo shoots. She is friends with the makeup artists, and she enjoys the attention when her photos are admired by patrons of salons or others in the underground fashion scene. |
| Others choose the hijab-only route, which allows them more public exposure. Mahya models Islamic dress styles for a designer affiliated with Qatar Airways and the brand La Neige, which produces manteaus – long, form-concealing coats – that are brightly coloured rather than the traditional black. She is also a part-time student, pursuing a master’s in environmental science. Though her father disapproves of her modelling, Mahya loves it so much she will work for free at times. | Others choose the hijab-only route, which allows them more public exposure. Mahya models Islamic dress styles for a designer affiliated with Qatar Airways and the brand La Neige, which produces manteaus – long, form-concealing coats – that are brightly coloured rather than the traditional black. She is also a part-time student, pursuing a master’s in environmental science. Though her father disapproves of her modelling, Mahya loves it so much she will work for free at times. |
| With her tall figure, Mahya once strutted the runway of on underground catwalk, where she wore less modest Islamic clothing and most of her curly black hair spilled out from beneath her headscarf. “If it had been public, the government would have closed it,” she says. “We were going to do a government-approved catwalk once, but they did not let us. That year it was worse because there was an election.” | With her tall figure, Mahya once strutted the runway of on underground catwalk, where she wore less modest Islamic clothing and most of her curly black hair spilled out from beneath her headscarf. “If it had been public, the government would have closed it,” she says. “We were going to do a government-approved catwalk once, but they did not let us. That year it was worse because there was an election.” |
| Since there are few catwalks in Iran and the fashion scene is much more about photo shoots, Mahya explains that models do not necessarily have to be tall. “It may be that the woman is short, but the brand may like the way she looks and they will choose her,” she says. “They choose the women more often who have had cosmetic surgery – women with lip and cheekbone enhancements or nose surgery.” | Since there are few catwalks in Iran and the fashion scene is much more about photo shoots, Mahya explains that models do not necessarily have to be tall. “It may be that the woman is short, but the brand may like the way she looks and they will choose her,” she says. “They choose the women more often who have had cosmetic surgery – women with lip and cheekbone enhancements or nose surgery.” |
| Both Mahya and Sonia value their natural looks and say they have not had them surgically altered, but they agree that female models with less traditionally Iranian features are more popular. | Both Mahya and Sonia value their natural looks and say they have not had them surgically altered, but they agree that female models with less traditionally Iranian features are more popular. |
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