Tehran in these times: 'its creativity and resourcefulness amaze me'

http://www.theguardian.com/cities/2014/mar/12/tehran-times-creativity-resourcefulness-amazes-me

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City in brief: Tehran is a city of diversity and contradictions: Firstly, the many different ethnic groups that make up the "cultural mosaic of Iran" (from its ethnic Fars and Azerbaijani Turks to Arabs, Kurds, Turkmens, and Balochis) are all represented in Tehran due to migration.

Secondly, there's a diversity of religions and perhaps most importantly, wildly different levels of religiosity among the 8 million population of Tehran. And finally, there is the huge disparity and gap in wealth and income distribution that has been ever-widening in the past few years.

These contradictory elements together make for very interesting juxtapositions throughout the city every second of every day that make life very interesting to live in. It's what makes living in Tehran interesting to observe from an anthropological point of view. The diversity is not just limited to demographics and population; wandering around the city, there are so many different types of architecture from each era (from the sublime, to the underwhelming, to the downright horrifying), all layered next to and on top of each other, that give the city an almost quilted texture that's very unique. It's not uncommon these days, with the rocketing real estate prices that have driven development, to find small villas with charming gardens sandwiched between skyscrapers, all on a cramped narrow street.

Favourite building: Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art

Kamran Diba, inspired by and using elements of traditional Iranian architecture (for instance using wind towers to bring in natural light), designed this building in 1970s and I believe it is one of the most beautiful examples of Iran's late modern architecture in the city.

Worst building: Ghavamin Tower

On the other end of the spectrum, we have universally despised eyesores such as the Ghavamin Tower in Argentine Square, which has made eyes bleed ever since it was completed in the early 1990s (among the first skyscrapers to be built in the city after the 1979 revolution). It's an inauthentic design and poor replica of Liberty Place in Philadelphia, executed poorly with an ostentatious shade of red!

Favourite place: the national garden

This city block in the heart of Tehran's historic downtown is filled with beautifully constructed official buildings as well as museums, such as the National Museum of Iran, not to mention being home to the only remaining section of the old citadel's gate – Abgineh museum designed by Hans Hollein is also close by. Walking around this neighbourhood is like travelling back in time and visiting the city during the Qajar dynasty, where horsedrawn carriages are replaced with hordes of taxis and motorbikes.

Worst place: Fereshteh Street

Fereshteh is considered to be one of the most prestigious residential areas in the city but I believe that it is also a prime example of the negative impacts of overdevelopment and poor urban planning. This used to be a suburban neighbourhood filled with gardens, orchards, and weekend homes. However, over the past 30 years it has been replaced with residential skyscrapers, hence losing most of its green space. Today, it is so congested that just trying to get out of the neighbourhood might take 20 mins – double the usual time.

Craziest transport: motorbike taxis (or motor-cyclettes as we call them)

This is the citizenry's ingenious answer to the ever-worsening traffic congestion; some parts of downtown Tehran are so congested during business hours that bikes are the only mode of transport when in need of haste. The solution has been found in talented motorists and taxis drivers that will risk their vehicles by wiggling their way through the tangled mess; the streets of Tehran are no strangers to fender benders.

Favourite restaurant: Golrezaei

I can claim that Golrezaei is on the top 10 list of the places you must visit in Tehran; not only because of its famous appetiser (an amazing combination of Greek yogurt, fresh walnuts, dill, raisins, green pepper and olive, cheese, white bread, and Persian herbs) and unique main course recipes (Persian meals touched by foreign influences over the years, with varied options for different tastes – I have friends who are serious fans of the borscht soup and the stews) but also because of the ethnographic insight you can get about modern Iran by spending time there.

Golrezaei has been an important cafe/bar/restaurant in Tehran since the 1940s, and has served as a special place for writers and intellectuals' gatherings over the decades. It preserved a good part of its decoration from before the revolution – the framed pages from old magazines, the photos of well-known figures in literature, poetry, visual arts and cinema who were influential in Tehran's cultural history, pieces of writing, interesting replicas of paintings and movie posters, old-style furniture, utensils and even recipes – which in my view makes it like a museum of Tehran's intellectual history.

Plus, it is located on Si-e-Tir street, close to Jomhouri street, and Emam Khomeini or Toopkhaneh Square, alongside some of the most important historical sites of the city. Perhaps Golrezaei is that authentic restaurant in the city where its charm has been created naturally through decades.

Favourite cafe: Chai Bar

My favourite cafe in Tehran, which offers a breathtaking atmosphere and a very interesting menu composed of classic Iranian iterms as well as European cafe fare. Chai Bar is located in a charming traditional hayat (garden), which is a part of a historic compound that is also home to Iran's calligraphy forum. Like Golrezaei, Chai also attracts an interesting crowd and is great for people watching, however the setting is free of the hustle and bustle of a busy restaurant and conducive to long conversations.

Are you optimistic about Tehran's future? Yes, because I firmly believe in the abilities of its citizenry.

I have always been amazed by the creativity and resourcefulness of my people; one doesn't have to go further than my blog to see that, where these qualities are illustrated through their art and fashion. Iranians have faced much harder challenges in their long and illustrious history, and there is always hope for a better and brighter future. This is a context with which we are very familiar.