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Villagers near Crimean border find themselves on tense new frontline Villagers near Crimean border find themselves on tense new frontline
(about 2 hours later)
Sitting in his office, Andrei Suchok was in no doubt that the shadowy men now perched at the end of his village were Russian snipers. "There are a lot of them. They are shooting practically every night," he said. "Some shoot out of fear. Others seem to be practising." How did he know? "I was an officer in the Red Army. They have Russian not Ukrainian weapons. They carry AK-100s."
Suchok is mayor of Krasnaya Chaban, one of six small villages situated on a picturesque isthmus in southern Ukraine, next to Crimea, and south of the city of Kherson. The four-mile-wide (6km) strip was once a sleepy ensemble of crumbling dachas, vegetable plots and chickens. Now the area is on a new frontline between Russian and Ukrainian troops. Sitting in his office, Andrei Suchok was in no doubt that the shadowy men perched at the end of his village were Russian snipers. "There are a lot of them. They are shooting practically every night," he said. "Some shoot out of fear. Others seem to be practising." How did he know? "I was an officer in the Red Army. They have Russian not Ukrainian weapons. They carry AK-100s."
Pro-Russian forces have set up a checkpoint on the M-17 highway, one of only two strategic gateways to the Crimean peninsula. According to locals, Russian soldiers have put mines in the nearby fields. They are also rebuilding the "Turkish shaft" – an ancient, Ottoman-era defensive moat, used by Crimea's Tatars to keep out the tsar and his cavalry. Suchok is mayor of Krasnaya Chaban, one of six small villages on a picturesque isthmus in southern Ukraine, next to Crimea, and south of the city of Kherson. The four-mile-wide (6km) strip was once a sleepy ensemble of crumbling dachas, vegetable plots and chickens. Now the area is on a new frontline between Russian and Ukrainian troops.
Pro-Russian forces have set up a checkpoint on the M-17 highway, one of only two strategic gateways to the Crimean peninsula. According to locals, Russian soldiers have put mines in the nearby fields. They are also rebuilding the "Turkish shaft" – an ancient, Ottoman defensive moat used by Crimea's Tatars to keep out the tsar and his cavalry.
Several Russian armoured vehicles were visible on Friday in a neatly spaced line, framed by the red-and-white chimney stacks of a giant titanium factory. A sign says: "Autonomous Republic of Crimea".Several Russian armoured vehicles were visible on Friday in a neatly spaced line, framed by the red-and-white chimney stacks of a giant titanium factory. A sign says: "Autonomous Republic of Crimea".
"Around 20 people set up a checkpoint here 10 days ago," Suchok said. "By day two there were 100." Anyone wanting to enter Crimea now has to pass through this militarised "border" crossing – controlled by unknown angry-looking men carrying guns."Around 20 people set up a checkpoint here 10 days ago," Suchok said. "By day two there were 100." Anyone wanting to enter Crimea now has to pass through this militarised "border" crossing – controlled by unknown angry-looking men carrying guns.
Three kilometres away nervy Ukrainian soldiers have set up their own makeshift control point. The blue-and-yellow Ukrainian flag flies next to white sandbags. There are khaki tents, a few technical vehicles and an armoured personnel carrier, concealed in a hollow. The soldiers broke off from their duties on Friday to watch a drone – it wasn't exactly clear whose – glide low through an azure sky. Three kilometres away nervy Ukrainian soldiers have set up a makeshift control point. The blue-and-yellow Ukrainian flag flies next to white sandbags. There are khaki tents, a few technical vehicles and an armoured personnel carrier, concealed in a hollow. The soldiers broke off from their duties on Friday to watch a drone – it wasn't exactly clear whose – glide low through an azure sky.
Ukraine's meagre forces seem little match for the mighty Russian war-machine just down the road. When the Ukrainian soldiers first got to Krasnaya Chaban they had nothing to eat, locals said. Villagers directed by Suchok brought them hot food, blankets and loo roll. The administration hooked up an electricity connection. A digger helped scoop out a parking spot for a tank-like vehicle.Ukraine's meagre forces seem little match for the mighty Russian war-machine just down the road. When the Ukrainian soldiers first got to Krasnaya Chaban they had nothing to eat, locals said. Villagers directed by Suchok brought them hot food, blankets and loo roll. The administration hooked up an electricity connection. A digger helped scoop out a parking spot for a tank-like vehicle.
Residents now find themselves in an unsettling, cold-war-style no man's land. They are uncertain what Sunday's referendum in Crimea might bring. "We are afraid. Everyone is panicking," one villager, Sveta, said, standing on the main Lenin Street. Next to her her newborn daughter slept peacefully in a lime-green pram. Armoured carriers trundling along the road, meanwhile, had terrified local children on their bus journey to school, she said. Residents find themselves in an unsettling, cold-war-style no man's land. They are uncertain what Sunday's referendum in Crimea might bring. "We are afraid. Everyone is panicking," one villager, Sveta, said, standing on the main Lenin Street. Next to her her newborn daughter slept peacefully in a lime-green pram. Armoured carriers trundling along the road had terrified local children on their bus journey to school, she said.
Sveta added that most people here including her husband worked in the nearby Soviet-era titanium factory, in the town of Armiansk. But Armiansk was in Crimea. And Crimea could soon, after Sunday, be the Russian Federation. "So far he's been able to get to work. But if it's Russia will he need a passport? It's ridiculous." She added: "I don't know whether Crimea is Russia or Ukraine. I do know we need money and a job. As it is we scarcely live." Sveta added that most people here including her husband worked in the nearby Soviet-era titanium factory, in the town of Armyansk. But Armyansk was in Crimea. And Crimea could soon, after Sunday, be the Russian Federation. "So far he's been able to get to work. But if it's Russia will he need a passport? It's ridiculous." She added: "I don't know whether Crimea is Russia or Ukraine. I do know we need money and a job. As it is we scarcely live."
For the villagers Russia's unilateral decision to create a new border is an absurdity. Practically all of them have relatives living in Crimea. Nikolai Markurin, a bright-eyed, 71-year-old widower who gets around by bike, said his middle-aged son Oleg lived in Armiansk, on the other side. He showed off black-and-white photos of the young Oleg, as well as of his three stepsons, all of whom had served in the Soviet military, one at the Crimean port of Fedosiya. For the villagers Russia's unilateral decision to create a border is an absurdity. Practically all of them have relatives living in Crimea. Nikolai Markurin, a bright-eyed, 71-year-old widower who gets around by bike, said his middle-aged son Oleg lived in Armyansk, on the other side. He showed off black-and-white photos of the young Oleg, as well as of his three stepsons, all of whom had served in the Soviet military, one at the Crimean port of Feodosiya.
Markurin said he was now planning to buy a satellite dish. The pro-secessionist Crimean authorities switched off all Ukrainian channels last week and replaced them with state Russian ones. The villagers depend for their TV on the local Armiansk transmitter. "I don't only want to watch Russian TV. A free choice is important for me. In the meantime I'll listen to Ukrainian radio," he said. Markurin said he was now planning to buy a satellite dish. The pro-secessionist Crimean authorities switched off all Ukrainian channels last week and replaced them with state Russian ones. The villagers depend for their TV on the local Armyansk transmitter. "I don't only want to watch Russian TV. A free choice is important for me. In the meantime I'll listen to Ukrainian radio."
The Kherson province of Ukraine – where rich black fields meet the glittering Dnipro river – is predominantly Russian-speaking. Some rural citizens speak a hybrid Russian-Ukrainian dialect. "We are Russian-speaking people who live in Ukraine. We don't understand this attack by Russia," Tatiana Kurbanova said, speaking in Krasnaya Chaban's administrative HQ. She added: "We recognise our new government. [President Viktor] Yanukovych ran away. This is our internal affair, not Russia's." The Kherson province of Ukraine – where rich black fields meet the glittering Dnipro river – is predominantly Russian-speaking. Some rural citizens speak a hybrid Russian-Ukrainian dialect. "We are Russian-speaking people who live in Ukraine. We don't understand this attack by Russia," Tatiana Kurbanova said, speaking in Krasnaya Chaban's administrative HQ. "We recognise our new government. [President Viktor] Yanukovych ran away. This is our internal affair, not Russia's."
This may be true. But successive invaders have sought to control this sliver-like territory formally known as the isthmus of Perekop, between the black and Azov seas – the key that opens Crimea's door. The Romans first built a wall here to keep out the nomads. After the Ottoman empire collapsed, Bolsheviks and white armies clashed here during Russia's civil war. This may be true, but successive invaders have sought to control this sliver of territory known as the isthmus of Perekop between the Black and Azov seas – the key that opens Crimea's door. The Romans built a wall to keep out nomads. After the Ottoman empire collapsed, Bolsheviks and white armies clashed here during Russia's civil war.
Suchok, the mayor, said he was still discovering the bodies of soldiers killed during the second world war, when the Red Army fought its way into Nazi-held Crimea, overrunning German and Romanian troops. Some 1,000 soldiers are buried in the village cemetery. A photo of a young man is fixed above a fresh grave: Mikhail Bazhal, born 1919. Interred with him is an unknown soldier. Suchok, the mayor, said he was still discovering the bodies of soldiers killed during the second world war, when the Red Army fought its way into Nazi-held Crimea, overrunning German and Romanian troops. About 1,000 soldiers are buried in the village cemetery. A photo of a young man is fixed above a fresh grave: Mikhail Bazhal, born 1919. Interred with him is an unknown soldier.
"We have a tense situation here. But it's peaceful and people are calm. Nobody wants a war," Suchok said. Would there be one? "I don't know what will happen," he replied. He added: "The first people who will lose will be the civilian population." Like most Ukrainians, Suchok has relatives in Russia – in his case, in the Urals city of Chelyabinsk. "We should sort this out ourselves, without Moscow," he suggested."We have a tense situation here. But it's peaceful and people are calm. Nobody wants a war," Suchok said. Would there be one? "I don't know what will happen," he replied. He added: "The first people who will lose will be the civilian population." Like most Ukrainians, Suchok has relatives in Russia – in his case, in the Urals city of Chelyabinsk. "We should sort this out ourselves, without Moscow," he suggested.
The mayor doubted whether Crimea would be able to prosper as an independent entity. At the moment, the peninsula gets virtually all of its drinking water from the north Crimean canal, a channel that runs directly alongside Krasnaya Chaban. A hydroelectric station near Kherson provides its electricity. So far the new government in Kiev has said it will provide all services to Crimea, which it regards as an integral part of Ukraine. Russia's prime minister, Dmitry Medvedev, has proposed a bridge linking the Russian mainland with the Crimean port of Kerch – a long-term undertaking.The mayor doubted whether Crimea would be able to prosper as an independent entity. At the moment, the peninsula gets virtually all of its drinking water from the north Crimean canal, a channel that runs directly alongside Krasnaya Chaban. A hydroelectric station near Kherson provides its electricity. So far the new government in Kiev has said it will provide all services to Crimea, which it regards as an integral part of Ukraine. Russia's prime minister, Dmitry Medvedev, has proposed a bridge linking the Russian mainland with the Crimean port of Kerch – a long-term undertaking.
As Suchok notes: "I could turn off the water supply myself."As Suchok notes: "I could turn off the water supply myself."
From the mayor's window, meanwhile, there is a terrific view of the village's Lenin – a flaking, silver statue that survived the collapse of communism but which has seen better days. Above Lenin's name in Cyrillic script is a red star. For centuries the village has been at the centre of conflicting imperial impulses – Ottoman, Soviet, and now, it appears, a plan to build a new Soviet Union.From the mayor's window, meanwhile, there is a terrific view of the village's Lenin – a flaking, silver statue that survived the collapse of communism but which has seen better days. Above Lenin's name in Cyrillic script is a red star. For centuries the village has been at the centre of conflicting imperial impulses – Ottoman, Soviet, and now, it appears, a plan to build a new Soviet Union.
"After Ukraine's revolution last month, 50 guys arrived here and wanted to pull Lenin down. I told them they could take him away, but not simply smash him up," Suchok recalled. "There has to be a proper legal decision." The men left; Lenin stayed."After Ukraine's revolution last month, 50 guys arrived here and wanted to pull Lenin down. I told them they could take him away, but not simply smash him up," Suchok recalled. "There has to be a proper legal decision." The men left; Lenin stayed.