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In praise of … kale In praise of … kale
(about 17 hours later)
Hardly has the steam cleared over the spat between the Guardian's own food blogger Jack Monroe and the Daily Mail's Richard Littlejohn over what eating kale reveals about your social status, than a parallel barney fires up in the US with much the same undertones. Some New Orleans residents were enraged when an out-of-town travel blogger, lyricising about the city's unique and unselfconscious appeal, asserted "there's no kale here". #Kalegate, as it inevitably became known, may have been partly at least about the travel writer's power to shape a city's image. But it is important that the value of kale as a signifier of class – celeriac followed a similar path from cattle food to culinary high-spot – should not detract from its sheer tastiness, cheapness and readiness to grow in almost any conditions and regardless of the skill of the gardener. Kale: steam it or stir-fry it, but above all forget the superfood tag and enjoy it.Hardly has the steam cleared over the spat between the Guardian's own food blogger Jack Monroe and the Daily Mail's Richard Littlejohn over what eating kale reveals about your social status, than a parallel barney fires up in the US with much the same undertones. Some New Orleans residents were enraged when an out-of-town travel blogger, lyricising about the city's unique and unselfconscious appeal, asserted "there's no kale here". #Kalegate, as it inevitably became known, may have been partly at least about the travel writer's power to shape a city's image. But it is important that the value of kale as a signifier of class – celeriac followed a similar path from cattle food to culinary high-spot – should not detract from its sheer tastiness, cheapness and readiness to grow in almost any conditions and regardless of the skill of the gardener. Kale: steam it or stir-fry it, but above all forget the superfood tag and enjoy it.
• This article was amended on 21 March 2014 to clarify the sub-heading.