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Saudi's difficult journey to reform Saudi's difficult journey to reform
(1 day later)
By Frank Gardner Security correspondent, BBC NewsBy Frank Gardner Security correspondent, BBC News
When you have seen the Saudi monarch back on his home turf, it is distinctly odd to see him climbing into a golden carriage on Horse Guards Parade this week or, indeed, tucking into "noisettes of venison" with the Queen of England at the state banquet at Buckingham Palace.When you have seen the Saudi monarch back on his home turf, it is distinctly odd to see him climbing into a golden carriage on Horse Guards Parade this week or, indeed, tucking into "noisettes of venison" with the Queen of England at the state banquet at Buckingham Palace.
Abdullah Bin Abdul-Aziz became king of Saudi Arabia in 2005Abdullah Bin Abdul-Aziz became king of Saudi Arabia in 2005
The last time I saw King Abdullah he was surrounded by chanting, bandoliered tribesmen in a mud-walled palace outside Riyadh.The last time I saw King Abdullah he was surrounded by chanting, bandoliered tribesmen in a mud-walled palace outside Riyadh.
The men all carried long thin swords, holding them upright and jiggling them in time to the drumbeats as they recited loyal verses in praise of their monarch and the ruling Al-Saud family.The men all carried long thin swords, holding them upright and jiggling them in time to the drumbeats as they recited loyal verses in praise of their monarch and the ruling Al-Saud family.
It all struck me as rather sycophantic at first, but then I realised that what I was watching was a glimpse of a deeply traditional tribal society.It all struck me as rather sycophantic at first, but then I realised that what I was watching was a glimpse of a deeply traditional tribal society.
Saudi Arabia may have been catapulted headlong into the 21st Century with its six-lane motorways, plate-glass skyscrapers and stupendous oil wealth, but in many ways Saudi society remains conservative and wary of sudden change.Saudi Arabia may have been catapulted headlong into the 21st Century with its six-lane motorways, plate-glass skyscrapers and stupendous oil wealth, but in many ways Saudi society remains conservative and wary of sudden change.
Many Saudis would like to be ruled better but most would prefer not to do away with the system they know and risk a dangerously uncertain future.Many Saudis would like to be ruled better but most would prefer not to do away with the system they know and risk a dangerously uncertain future.
Curbing excessCurbing excess
As absolute monarch, King Abdullah is a large and imposing man, given to few words in Arabic and even fewer in English. At 83, his carefully sculpted beard is suspiciously black but his mind is sharp.As absolute monarch, King Abdullah is a large and imposing man, given to few words in Arabic and even fewer in English. At 83, his carefully sculpted beard is suspiciously black but his mind is sharp.
He has known for some time that unless his country adopts certain reforms - like curbing excessive spending by the thousands of royal princes and princesses, or giving non-royals a greater say in public affairs - then Saudi Arabia risks violent upheaval somewhere down the line.He has known for some time that unless his country adopts certain reforms - like curbing excessive spending by the thousands of royal princes and princesses, or giving non-royals a greater say in public affairs - then Saudi Arabia risks violent upheaval somewhere down the line.
Just like Britain's Prime Minister Gordon Brown, whom he met in Downing Street on Wednesday, King Abdullah has had to wait a decade for the top job.Just like Britain's Prime Minister Gordon Brown, whom he met in Downing Street on Wednesday, King Abdullah has had to wait a decade for the top job.
With oil now nudging towards $100 a barrel, Saudi coffers are once more overflowing With his half-brother incapacitated by a stroke, Abdullah, as crown prince, was full of ideas for reform, yet he found himself blocked by some of the old guard in the ruling family who rather liked the status quo and who resisted anything that smacked of change.With oil now nudging towards $100 a barrel, Saudi coffers are once more overflowing With his half-brother incapacitated by a stroke, Abdullah, as crown prince, was full of ideas for reform, yet he found himself blocked by some of the old guard in the ruling family who rather liked the status quo and who resisted anything that smacked of change.
When the oil price slumped to $9 a barrel in 1998 I remember how Crown Prince Abdullah shocked other Gulf leaders at a summit by telling them the good times were over and that everyone had to tighten their belts.When the oil price slumped to $9 a barrel in 1998 I remember how Crown Prince Abdullah shocked other Gulf leaders at a summit by telling them the good times were over and that everyone had to tighten their belts.
"Great idea," said one Saudi journalist to me, "but this morning I drove past prince so-and-so's palace in Riyadh and it had all the floodlights on. He's not even here, he's on holiday with his entourage in Marbella.""Great idea," said one Saudi journalist to me, "but this morning I drove past prince so-and-so's palace in Riyadh and it had all the floodlights on. He's not even here, he's on holiday with his entourage in Marbella."
It is conspicuous profligacy like this that Abdullah has tried to tackle, with only limited success.It is conspicuous profligacy like this that Abdullah has tried to tackle, with only limited success.
With oil now nudging towards $100 (£48) a barrel, Saudi coffers are once more overflowing. The country is again awash with money and any painful or unpopular reforms have been swept under the carpet.With oil now nudging towards $100 (£48) a barrel, Saudi coffers are once more overflowing. The country is again awash with money and any painful or unpopular reforms have been swept under the carpet.
Contentious discussionsContentious discussions
Now that he is king, Abdullah is pressing ahead with a process known as the national dialogue.Now that he is king, Abdullah is pressing ahead with a process known as the national dialogue.
In a country without a free press, where criticism of the ruling family is punishable by prison, the dialogue is a rare breath of fresh air.In a country without a free press, where criticism of the ruling family is punishable by prison, the dialogue is a rare breath of fresh air.
In a series of forums it has brought together hundreds of ordinary Saudis to discuss contentious issues like extremism, education and the role of women, who are still not allowed to drive.In a series of forums it has brought together hundreds of ordinary Saudis to discuss contentious issues like extremism, education and the role of women, who are still not allowed to drive.
It may not actually change anything in the short-term but at least its getting people talking. It may not actually change anything in the short-term but at least it is getting people talking.
This week, as King Abdullah's 400-strong entourage piled into London, I met the man running the national dialogue.This week, as King Abdullah's 400-strong entourage piled into London, I met the man running the national dialogue.
Small and intense, with dark, searching eyes, Faisal Bin Muammar sought me out during a coffee break at an Anglo-Saudi conference in London's Lancaster House.Small and intense, with dark, searching eyes, Faisal Bin Muammar sought me out during a coffee break at an Anglo-Saudi conference in London's Lancaster House.
"This is the king's initiative," he said proudly, "and we are making great changes.""This is the king's initiative," he said proudly, "and we are making great changes."
Faisal told me how, with the king's blessing, they are training up 40,000 workers to run roundtable workshops all over Saudi Arabia.Faisal told me how, with the king's blessing, they are training up 40,000 workers to run roundtable workshops all over Saudi Arabia.
"Everything," he said, "is up for discussion: Sunnis, Shias, women driving, you name it.""Everything," he said, "is up for discussion: Sunnis, Shias, women driving, you name it."
Fighting extremismFighting extremism
You can see where the Saudis are coming from here.You can see where the Saudis are coming from here.
Some 38% of their population is under 14 years of age and they live in a volatile part of the world where it is all too easy for young and idealistic men to get drawn towards religious extremism.Some 38% of their population is under 14 years of age and they live in a volatile part of the world where it is all too easy for young and idealistic men to get drawn towards religious extremism.
Of course, part of this is of the Saudis own making.Of course, part of this is of the Saudis own making.
The Saudis have been making great efforts - belatedly - to tackle this culture of intolerance For years the rulers turned a blind eye to vitriolic sermons and school text books that fostered a hateful culture of intolerance towards non-Muslims.The Saudis have been making great efforts - belatedly - to tackle this culture of intolerance For years the rulers turned a blind eye to vitriolic sermons and school text books that fostered a hateful culture of intolerance towards non-Muslims.
Then they were surprised when al-Qaeda blew up a bunch of truck bombs inside Western housing compounds in Riyadh four years ago.Then they were surprised when al-Qaeda blew up a bunch of truck bombs inside Western housing compounds in Riyadh four years ago.
But since then, the Saudis have been making great efforts - belatedly - to tackle this culture of intolerance.But since then, the Saudis have been making great efforts - belatedly - to tackle this culture of intolerance.
To his critics in Britain, King Abdullah is a part of the problem, ruling a country with a dreadful human rights record which they say exports extremism. But others would say that the king is, by Saudi standards, an enlightened reformer, a useful ally in a dangerous neighbourhood that Britain would do well to stay on-side with.To his critics in Britain, King Abdullah is a part of the problem, ruling a country with a dreadful human rights record which they say exports extremism. But others would say that the king is, by Saudi standards, an enlightened reformer, a useful ally in a dangerous neighbourhood that Britain would do well to stay on-side with.
From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Thursday, 1 November, 2007 at 1100 GMT on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.From Our Own Correspondent was broadcast on Thursday, 1 November, 2007 at 1100 GMT on BBC Radio 4. Please check the programme schedules for World Service transmission times.