Book of the week: My Paris Kitchen by David Lebovitz
http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/apr/14/my-paris-kitchen-review-david-lebovitz-cookworm Version 0 of 1. In a nutshellThe American chef-turned-writer whimsically reflects on the French-inspired food that has shaped his cooking during his life in Paris over the past decade. What does it cover?All the classic French recipes from onion soup to coq au vin, interspersed with Parisian tales. Why is it good?Because it's not a standard cookbook – it is to be used and read in equal measure. A love-letter to Paris, it has more than 100 recipes and nearly as many stories. This is part recipe book, part memoir and part guide. Who's it for?Francophiles will delight in it, as will those who want to experiment with French cooking without going down the full Julia Child route. A fan of the humble oeuf? Lucky you: it features heavily. Who's it not for?Those who like their cookbooks conventional and personality-free. Best recipe?Cassoulet (translated as white bean, sausage, duck confit casserole), swiftly followed by warm chocolate cake with salted caramel sauce, then tangerine-Champagne sorbet – ooh la la! Anything else?Thanks to his pastry chef background, Lebovitz's recipes come alive in the dessert chapter and it's worth a peek for that alone: the photo of the chocolate dulce de leche tart will make you gasp in wonder. His obvious knowledge, experience and enthusiasm makes up for sometimes lacklustre prose. We sayMuch like some of la cuisine française it features, this is an acquired taste. And while it may not make it to a hallowed space on your kitchen shelf, it would make a lovely coffee table book or bedtime read. To order My Paris Kitchen by David Lebovitz for £18.99 (RRP £28), visit guardianbookshop.co.uk or call 0330 333 6846. Review by Jessica Hopkins. |