This article is from the source 'guardian' and was first published or seen on . It last changed over 40 days ago and won't be checked again for changes.

You can find the current article at its original source at http://www.theguardian.com/cities/2014/apr/30/cape-town-apartheid-ended-still-paradise-few-south-africa

The article has changed 4 times. There is an RSS feed of changes available.

Version 0 Version 1
Apartheid ended 20 years ago, so why is Cape Town still 'a paradise for the few'? Apartheid ended 20 years ago, so why is Cape Town still 'a paradise for the few'?
(about 3 hours later)
Sitting on a salvaged sofa in the centre of her small tin shack,Sitting on a salvaged sofa in the centre of her small tin shack,
Nomfusi Panyaza looks increasingly worried, as heavy clouds gather inNomfusi Panyaza looks increasingly worried, as heavy clouds gather in
the sky outside. “When it rains, the public toilets overflow intothe sky outside. “When it rains, the public toilets overflow into
my living room,” she says. “Water comes in through the ceilingmy living room,” she says. “Water comes in through the ceiling
and the electricity stops working.”and the electricity stops working.”
Outside her makeshift home in the sprawling township ofOutside her makeshift home in the sprawling township of
Khayelitsha, on the eastern edge of Cape Town, barefoot children playKhayelitsha, on the eastern edge of Cape Town, barefoot children play
on the banks of an open sewer, while cows roam next to an overflowingon the banks of an open sewer, while cows roam next to an overflowing
rubbish heap. Panyaza shares this tiny cabin with her two daughtersrubbish heap. Panyaza shares this tiny cabin with her two daughters
and four grandchildren, a family of seven with two beds between them.and four grandchildren, a family of seven with two beds between them.
“We can't sleep at night because of the smell,” she says,“We can't sleep at night because of the smell,” she says,
speaking in Xhosa, a language peppered with clicks that echo thespeaking in Xhosa, a language peppered with clicks that echo the
droplets beginning to drum on the corrugated metal roof. “I'mdroplets beginning to drum on the corrugated metal roof. “I'm
worried that the children are always getting sick.”Twenty minutes' drive to the west, the seventh course is beingworried that the children are always getting sick.”Twenty minutes' drive to the west, the seventh course is being
served at a banquet of assembled journalists, here to celebrate Capeserved at a banquet of assembled journalists, here to celebrate Cape
Town's title of World Design Capital 2014 on the terrace of a cliff-top villa. An infinity pool projects outTown's title of World Design Capital 2014 on the terrace of a cliff-top villa. An infinity pool projects out
towards the Atlantic horizon, as the setting sun casts a golden glowtowards the Atlantic horizon, as the setting sun casts a golden glow
across the villa's seamless planes, their surfaces sparkling withacross the villa's seamless planes, their surfaces sparkling with
Namibian diamond dust mixed into the white concrete. Guests admireNamibian diamond dust mixed into the white concrete. Guests admire
how the bath tub is carved from a solid block of marble, whilehow the bath tub is carved from a solid block of marble, while
security guards keep watch in front of a defensive ha-ha down below,security guards keep watch in front of a defensive ha-ha down below,
ringed by an electric fence.ringed by an electric fence.
Apartheid may have ended 20 years ago, but here in Cape Town theApartheid may have ended 20 years ago, but here in Cape Town the
sense of apartness remains as strong as ever. After decades ofsense of apartness remains as strong as ever. After decades of
enforced segregation, the feeling of division is permanently carvedenforced segregation, the feeling of division is permanently carved
into the city's urban form, the physical legacy of a plan that wasinto the city's urban form, the physical legacy of a plan that was
calculatedly designed to separate poor blacks from rich whites.calculatedly designed to separate poor blacks from rich whites.
“The social engineering of apartheid came down to a very“The social engineering of apartheid came down to a very
successful model of spatial engineering,” says Edgar Pieterse,successful model of spatial engineering,” says Edgar Pieterse,
director of the African Centre for Cities at the University of Cape Town. Tracing his fingers over a map of thedirector of the African Centre for Cities at the University of Cape Town. Tracing his fingers over a map of the
city in his office, he explains how both natural landscape featurescity in his office, he explains how both natural landscape features
and manmade infrastructure were employed as physical barriers to keepand manmade infrastructure were employed as physical barriers to keep
the different racial communities as isolated as possible.the different racial communities as isolated as possible.
“Cape Town was conceived with a white-only centre, surrounded by“Cape Town was conceived with a white-only centre, surrounded by
contained settlements for the black and coloured labour forces to thecontained settlements for the black and coloured labour forces to the
east, each hemmed in by highways and rail lines, rivers and valleys,east, each hemmed in by highways and rail lines, rivers and valleys,
and separated from the affluent white suburbs by protective bufferand separated from the affluent white suburbs by protective buffer
zones of scrubland,” he says.zones of scrubland,” he says.
From 1948, when the apartheid administration began, South Africa's From 1948, when the apartheid administration began, South Africa's
cities adopted the strict zoning principles of modernist urban planning,cities adopted the strict zoning principles of modernist urban planning,
taking inspiration from Ebenezer Howard's garden city movement and Le Corbusier's Ville Radieuse, only repurposing their dogma of functional segregation towards racial ends. taking inspiration from Ebenezer Howard's garden city movement and Le Corbusier's Ville Radieuse, only repurposing their dogma of functional segregation towards racial ends.
TheThe
process of relocating Africans to peripheral townships would not only process of relocating Africans to peripheral townships would not only
cleanse the white centres, but create new blank sites, sterilised of anycleanse the white centres, but create new blank sites, sterilised of any
reference to indigenous culture and tradition. These modern, orderly reference to indigenous culture and tradition. These modern, orderly
settlements, it was thought, would mould the black labour force into an settlements, it was thought, would mould the black labour force into an
orderly, submissive underclass. With security and control, rather than orderly, submissive underclass. With security and control, rather than
health and happiness, as the chief motivations, the townships were health and happiness, as the chief motivations, the townships were
designed along the lines of military barracks. Streets of grim “matchboxdesigned along the lines of military barracks. Streets of grim “matchbox
houses” were laid out in strict grids and surrounded by a fence, with houses” were laid out in strict grids and surrounded by a fence, with
only two or three points of entry, allowing the police to seal off only two or three points of entry, allowing the police to seal off
entire neighbourhoods with minimal effort.entire neighbourhoods with minimal effort.
Driving along the main road from the airport to the Driving along the main road from the airport to the
city, through the barren and windswept Cape Flats that roll out to the city, through the barren and windswept Cape Flats that roll out to the
east, this militaristic planning is still very much in evidence. east, this militaristic planning is still very much in evidence.
Thirty-metre high lighting masts loom above the homes at regular intervals, Thirty-metre high lighting masts loom above the homes at regular intervals,
with floodlights glaring down all night over the wide streets, so the with floodlights glaring down all night over the wide streets, so the
area can be easily surveyed from a helicopter. Housing is set back at area can be easily surveyed from a helicopter. Housing is set back at
least 60 metres from the road, a dimension, like the lighting masts' least 60 metres from the road, a dimension, like the lighting masts'
height, that is governed by the distance you can throw a stone.height, that is governed by the distance you can throw a stone.
During the years running up to the 2010 Fifa World During the years running up to the 2010 Fifa World
Cup, this drive into town was spruced up. Either side of the motorway, Cup, this drive into town was spruced up. Either side of the motorway,
as part of the N2 Gateway Project, shanty-town shacks have been replaced with neat brick and render as part of the N2 Gateway Project, shanty-town shacks have been replaced with neat brick and render
houses, each topped with a bright orange pan-tile roof. But look beyond houses, each topped with a bright orange pan-tile roof. But look beyond
this thin crust of decent homes – a block-deep Potemkin facade of this thin crust of decent homes – a block-deep Potemkin facade of
regeneration – and a sea of jumbled shacks continues to stretch regeneration – and a sea of jumbled shacks continues to stretch
endlessly into the distance.endlessly into the distance.
For all the city's attempts at a cosmetic makeover, For all the city's attempts at a cosmetic makeover,
which was roundly condemned by international NGOs for the accompanying which was roundly condemned by international NGOs for the accompanying
programme of forced evictions, this route into town still provides a striking object lesson in the programme of forced evictions, this route into town still provides a striking object lesson in the
power of apartheid planning. Beyond the townships, which appear power of apartheid planning. Beyond the townships, which appear
increasingly titivated the closer towards the city you progress, stands increasingly titivated the closer towards the city you progress, stands
the site of a former power station. Then there is a sewage treatment the site of a former power station. Then there is a sewage treatment
plant, followed by the neatly manicured mounds of a golf course, the plant, followed by the neatly manicured mounds of a golf course, the
bend of a river, a deep valley and a tangle of intersecting roads. The bend of a river, a deep valley and a tangle of intersecting roads. The
black communities were separated from whites not only by distance, but black communities were separated from whites not only by distance, but
by as many physical obstacles as possible, the more polluting the by as many physical obstacles as possible, the more polluting the
better.better.
“Points of contact invariably produce friction and “Points of contact invariably produce friction and
friction generates heat and may lead to a conflagration,” declared Southfriction generates heat and may lead to a conflagration,” declared South
Africa's minister of the interior, Dr T E Tonges, in 1950, when he Africa's minister of the interior, Dr T E Tonges, in 1950, when he
introduced the Group Areas Act, the law that enforced the division of cities into ethnically distinct introduced the Group Areas Act, the law that enforced the division of cities into ethnically distinct
areas. “It is our duty therefore to reduce these points of contact to areas. “It is our duty therefore to reduce these points of contact to
the absolute minimum which public opinion is prepared to accept.”the absolute minimum which public opinion is prepared to accept.”
While it saw the savage separation of mixed-race While it saw the savage separation of mixed-race
families, and the wholesale demolition of non-white areas – such as Capefamilies, and the wholesale demolition of non-white areas – such as Cape
Town's vibrant District Six, which still stands as an overgrown wasteland in the centre of town – Town's vibrant District Six, which still stands as an overgrown wasteland in the centre of town –
the Act only cemented a tendency of white settlers retreating behind the Act only cemented a tendency of white settlers retreating behind
barriers that had been present in the Cape for over 300 years.barriers that had been present in the Cape for over 300 years.
In the mid-17th century Jan van Riebeeck, In the mid-17th century Jan van Riebeeck,
leader of the first Europeans to settle in South Africa, proposed the leader of the first Europeans to settle in South Africa, proposed the
typically Dutch solution of digging a canal across the Cape Peninsular typically Dutch solution of digging a canal across the Cape Peninsular
to separate the white paradise as a self-contained island, cut off from to separate the white paradise as a self-contained island, cut off from
the rest of “darkest Africa”. Unable to realise this ambitious project, the rest of “darkest Africa”. Unable to realise this ambitious project,
he instead decided to plant a bitter almond hedge to keep the “black he instead decided to plant a bitter almond hedge to keep the “black
stinking dogs” out of his settlement, accompanied by brambles and thornystinking dogs” out of his settlement, accompanied by brambles and thorny
bushes designed to ward off this “savage set, living without bushes designed to ward off this “savage set, living without
conscience”.conscience”.
Systematic segregation continued into the late 19th Systematic segregation continued into the late 19th
and early 20th centuries, when the British colonial government forcibly and early 20th centuries, when the British colonial government forcibly
resettled black communities under the pretence of curbing an outbreak ofresettled black communities under the pretence of curbing an outbreak of
the bubonic plague. Further acts of parliament prevented the the bubonic plague. Further acts of parliament prevented the
acquisition of land by “natives” and limited movement by a draconian acquisition of land by “natives” and limited movement by a draconian
system of internal passports, preceding apartheid legislation by 25 system of internal passports, preceding apartheid legislation by 25
years. The Urban Areas Act of 1923 ordered the removal of Africans from desirable city centres to years. The Urban Areas Act of 1923 ordered the removal of Africans from desirable city centres to
“locations”, one of the first of which in Cape Town, Langa (which “locations”, one of the first of which in Cape Town, Langa (which
ironically means “sun”), was sited right next to the sewage works.ironically means “sun”), was sited right next to the sewage works.
Since 1994, when the Since 1994, when the
African National Congress came to power and apartheid was finally ended,African National Congress came to power and apartheid was finally ended,
South Africa has struggled to even begin to undo these centuries of South Africa has struggled to even begin to undo these centuries of
divisive planning. In some cases, misguided initiatives have only serveddivisive planning. In some cases, misguided initiatives have only served
to strengthen it. to strengthen it.
“The time to build is upon us,” declared Nelson “The time to build is upon us,” declared Nelson
Mandela in his inaugural speech as president, launching what would Mandela in his inaugural speech as president, launching what would
become one of the biggest state housing development projects in the become one of the biggest state housing development projects in the
world. The Reconstruction and Development Programme (RDP) has seen over world. The Reconstruction and Development Programme (RDP) has seen over
3.6 million new homes built across the country since then, provided free3.6 million new homes built across the country since then, provided free
of charge to those on monthly incomes of less than 3,500 rand (£200). of charge to those on monthly incomes of less than 3,500 rand (£200).
But these have come with their own problems: despite the improvements inBut these have come with their own problems: despite the improvements in
individual living conditions, there is a growing realisation that the individual living conditions, there is a growing realisation that the
RDP housing programme has reinforced apartheid era segregation, RDP housing programme has reinforced apartheid era segregation,
continuing to consign the poor to ghettos at the furthest edges of the continuing to consign the poor to ghettos at the furthest edges of the
city. Building is one thing, but time for planning might have been city. Building is one thing, but time for planning might have been
helpful first.helpful first.
Walking past these identical single-story sheds, Walking past these identical single-story sheds,
marshalled into grim repetitive rows (not nicknamed dog kennels for marshalled into grim repetitive rows (not nicknamed dog kennels for
nothing), it is often hard to distinguish the RDP buildings from the nothing), it is often hard to distinguish the RDP buildings from the
hated matchbox houses built in the townships under apartheid. They have hated matchbox houses built in the townships under apartheid. They have
been thrown up quickly and cheaply, and many have already come crumblingbeen thrown up quickly and cheaply, and many have already come crumbling
down, while their dreary layout reinforces the sense of living in an down, while their dreary layout reinforces the sense of living in an
open-air prison. They also have the tendency to spawn their own informalopen-air prison. They also have the tendency to spawn their own informal
buildings next door, fuelling the development of choked streets of buildings next door, fuelling the development of choked streets of
unplanned shacks.unplanned shacks.
“When“When
many people finally get an RDP house, often after 10-15 years of many people finally get an RDP house, often after 10-15 years of
waiting, they realise it makes more economic sense to build a shack in waiting, they realise it makes more economic sense to build a shack in
the backyard for themselves and sell the house,” says Pieterse. “They the backyard for themselves and sell the house,” says Pieterse. “They
sell them illegally for about 40,000 rand (£2,300), a third of what it sell them illegally for about 40,000 rand (£2,300), a third of what it
costs the state the build them, and then they can use this cash to set costs the state the build them, and then they can use this cash to set
up a business from the shack. It makes a lot more economic sense than up a business from the shack. It makes a lot more economic sense than
living in the RDP house, where you're not allowed to trade.”living in the RDP house, where you're not allowed to trade.”
Wandering the potholed streets of Khayelitsha today Wandering the potholed streets of Khayelitsha today
provides such a tale of two cities, where the planned and unplanned provides such a tale of two cities, where the planned and unplanned
jostle for position. On one side of the road stands an orderly row of jostle for position. On one side of the road stands an orderly row of
RDP houses, their gable ends neatly rendered in pastel shades of peach RDP houses, their gable ends neatly rendered in pastel shades of peach
and tangerine. But turn the corner and a jumble of shacks spills out and tangerine. But turn the corner and a jumble of shacks spills out
behind, an energetic collage of corrugated sheeting held up with behind, an energetic collage of corrugated sheeting held up with
salvaged fenceposts. There are gates cleverly constructed from plastic salvaged fenceposts. There are gates cleverly constructed from plastic
crates and mail boxes fashioned from a oil cans, all liberally doused incrates and mail boxes fashioned from a oil cans, all liberally doused in
bright blues and pinks, greens and yellows, tying each assemblage into a bright blues and pinks, greens and yellows, tying each assemblage into a
carefully crafted home. carefully crafted home.
ItIt
is easy to romanticise this vibrant, makeshift culture – indeed is easy to romanticise this vibrant, makeshift culture – indeed
township tours regularly shuttle groups of tourists out here for a dose township tours regularly shuttle groups of tourists out here for a dose
of shanty-town chic – but the reality of life inside belies the of shanty-town chic – but the reality of life inside belies the
picturesque surface and beaming welcome. Over a quarter of households picturesque surface and beaming welcome. Over a quarter of households
have no access to electricity, while each outdoor tap is shared between around twenty families, each toilet between ten.have no access to electricity, while each outdoor tap is shared between around twenty families, each toilet between ten.
Every plot, whether from the RDP programme or datingEvery plot, whether from the RDP programme or dating
from when the township was first laid out in 1984, is now often home to from when the township was first laid out in 1984, is now often home to
four or six other dwellings, each sharing the minimal amount of four or six other dwellings, each sharing the minimal amount of
electricity provided to the original legal household.electricity provided to the original legal household.
“Sometimes my neighbours just turn off the power and“Sometimes my neighbours just turn off the power and
hold me to ransom,” says Panyaza, staring at a blank television in hold me to ransom,” says Panyaza, staring at a blank television in
front of her sofa, the principal possession around which the rest of herfront of her sofa, the principal possession around which the rest of her
small home is organised. In one corner of the room, a gas canister and small home is organised. In one corner of the room, a gas canister and
pile of pots indicate the kitchen area, while behind a flimsy screen of pile of pots indicate the kitchen area, while behind a flimsy screen of
fibreboard panels are the two bedrooms, each no bigger than a mattress. fibreboard panels are the two bedrooms, each no bigger than a mattress.
Possessions are piled in boxes and suitcases, as if they could be ready Possessions are piled in boxes and suitcases, as if they could be ready
to leave at a moment's notice.to leave at a moment's notice.
“We've been forgotten,” says Panyaza, who built her “We've been forgotten,” says Panyaza, who built her
home ten years ago, when she first moved here with her family from the home ten years ago, when she first moved here with her family from the
Eastern Cape in search of work in the city. They have been on waiting Eastern Cape in search of work in the city. They have been on waiting
list for an RDP house ever since.list for an RDP house ever since.
Their story is shared by thousands of families who arrive here each year from the poorer eastern province, an influx that sees around 10,000 new shacks built annually in Khayelitsha alone. Originally planned as a community of 200,000, the population now numbers around one million, half of whom live in informal housing, making it one of the biggest and fastest growing townships in the country.Their story is shared by thousands of families who arrive here each year from the poorer eastern province, an influx that sees around 10,000 new shacks built annually in Khayelitsha alone. Originally planned as a community of 200,000, the population now numbers around one million, half of whom live in informal housing, making it one of the biggest and fastest growing townships in the country.
It is a speed of growth and level poverty, with over 50% unemployment, that has also brought Khayelitsha one of the highest crime rates in the country, and a reputation as a place ruled by gang violence. Police say they deal with an average of four murders a weekend, while the local hospital is overrun with stab-wound and gunshot victims every night.It is a speed of growth and level poverty, with over 50% unemployment, that has also brought Khayelitsha one of the highest crime rates in the country, and a reputation as a place ruled by gang violence. Police say they deal with an average of four murders a weekend, while the local hospital is overrun with stab-wound and gunshot victims every night.
“It's so bad in some areas that the police won't even go in,” says Sonwabile Swartbooi of the Social Justice Coalition, a local community NGO focused on improving safety and sanitation in the area. “Children are often too scared to walk to school in case they get caught in crossfire.”“It's so bad in some areas that the police won't even go in,” says Sonwabile Swartbooi of the Social Justice Coalition, a local community NGO focused on improving safety and sanitation in the area. “Children are often too scared to walk to school in case they get caught in crossfire.”
With a Commission of Inquiry under way into alleged police inefficiency in Khayelitsha, there is little confidence in the justice system, and vigilante mobs sometimes take matters into their own hands. “The mobs punish suspected criminals with 'necklacing',” says Swartbooi. “They chase them down and beat them, then trap them inside petrol-filled tyres and set them on fire.”With a Commission of Inquiry under way into alleged police inefficiency in Khayelitsha, there is little confidence in the justice system, and vigilante mobs sometimes take matters into their own hands. “The mobs punish suspected criminals with 'necklacing',” says Swartbooi. “They chase them down and beat them, then trap them inside petrol-filled tyres and set them on fire.”
It is within this fraught context that German urban designer Michael Krause has been working since 2008 on a series of projects that aim to tackle violence through simple improvements to the township's streets and spaces.It is within this fraught context that German urban designer Michael Krause has been working since 2008 on a series of projects that aim to tackle violence through simple improvements to the township's streets and spaces.
“Our approach is to positively occupy places that are perceived to be dangerous,” he says, standing outside a construction site, where local workmen clamber atop a structure of bright red shipping containers and rendered sand-bag walls, soon to be a new community centre. Across a dusty lot sits a heap of scrap metal, patrolled by a couple of emaciated dogs, while a toddler squats in the street, examining the sole of a discarded shoe.“Our approach is to positively occupy places that are perceived to be dangerous,” he says, standing outside a construction site, where local workmen clamber atop a structure of bright red shipping containers and rendered sand-bag walls, soon to be a new community centre. Across a dusty lot sits a heap of scrap metal, patrolled by a couple of emaciated dogs, while a toddler squats in the street, examining the sole of a discarded shoe.
“This used to be the site of an illegal chop shop,” says Krause. “Hijacked cars would be brought here to be dismantled and sold on. The community wasn't strong enough to stand up to the criminal elements, so we took them through a leadership process to give them the strength to do it themselves. The choice was either build a community centre, or be ruled by criminals. That's sustainability.”“This used to be the site of an illegal chop shop,” says Krause. “Hijacked cars would be brought here to be dismantled and sold on. The community wasn't strong enough to stand up to the criminal elements, so we took them through a leadership process to give them the strength to do it themselves. The choice was either build a community centre, or be ruled by criminals. That's sustainability.”
The centre is one of a number of “active boxes” that have been built in the area over the last few years, conceived as hubs of 24/7 activity – part community centre, part safe haven, manned by volunteers from the nascent neighbourhood watch initiative. Each has a multi-purpose room, used for meetings and youth groups, along with a caretaker's flat, as well as spaces for shops and start-up businesses or a creche. Positioned every 500 metres along a route through the township, with their slender red watchtowers rising above the rambling rooftops, the active boxes now stand like a line of proud church spires.The centre is one of a number of “active boxes” that have been built in the area over the last few years, conceived as hubs of 24/7 activity – part community centre, part safe haven, manned by volunteers from the nascent neighbourhood watch initiative. Each has a multi-purpose room, used for meetings and youth groups, along with a caretaker's flat, as well as spaces for shops and start-up businesses or a creche. Positioned every 500 metres along a route through the township, with their slender red watchtowers rising above the rambling rooftops, the active boxes now stand like a line of proud church spires.
“They are like the blue cheese in a gorgonzola,” says Krause, walking through a huddle of market stalls, where chickens are being plucked and corn is roasting on smoking coals. “They are safe nodes, connected by paths that thread their way through the township, from the market to the station to the schools and so on, defining well-lit routes monitored by passive surveillance.”“They are like the blue cheese in a gorgonzola,” says Krause, walking through a huddle of market stalls, where chickens are being plucked and corn is roasting on smoking coals. “They are safe nodes, connected by paths that thread their way through the township, from the market to the station to the schools and so on, defining well-lit routes monitored by passive surveillance.”
Leading the Violence Prevention through Urban Upgrading programme, an initiative jointly funded by the provincial government and the German Development Bank, Krause and his team spent months working with the community to map crime hotspots and work out the safer, regularly used routes through the area. The active boxes are accompanied by a package of public realm improvements, from street lighting to new paving and recreation spaces, along with “active citizenship” programmes, empowering residents to drive these projects forward themselves.Leading the Violence Prevention through Urban Upgrading programme, an initiative jointly funded by the provincial government and the German Development Bank, Krause and his team spent months working with the community to map crime hotspots and work out the safer, regularly used routes through the area. The active boxes are accompanied by a package of public realm improvements, from street lighting to new paving and recreation spaces, along with “active citizenship” programmes, empowering residents to drive these projects forward themselves.
It is a community-led approach that contrasts with the blunt handIt is a community-led approach that contrasts with the blunt hand
of previous top-down interventions, such as the Khayelitsha shoppingof previous top-down interventions, such as the Khayelitsha shopping
mall, a cluster of out-of-town retail sheds airlifted into the township inmall, a cluster of out-of-town retail sheds airlifted into the township in
2005, but hopelessly cut-off, sited the wrong side of a railway line.2005, but hopelessly cut-off, sited the wrong side of a railway line.
“They call it our new town centre, but it's in totally the wrong“They call it our new town centre, but it's in totally the wrong
place,” says one local resident, walking back across the bridgeplace,” says one local resident, walking back across the bridge
over the tracks. “It may be shiny and new, but it doesn't feel safeover the tracks. “It may be shiny and new, but it doesn't feel safe
to go there.”to go there.”
Just a short way to the south, in the neighbourhood of Harare, theJust a short way to the south, in the neighbourhood of Harare, the
biggest VPUU project shows how things can be done differently. In thebiggest VPUU project shows how things can be done differently. In the
centre of the area now stands a tarmac square, lined either side withcentre of the area now stands a tarmac square, lined either side with
new red-brick buildings, carefully designed to frame this new civicnew red-brick buildings, carefully designed to frame this new civic
space with active frontages. There is a big new library to one sidespace with active frontages. There is a big new library to one side
(which now claims to be the busiest public library in Cape Town) next(which now claims to be the busiest public library in Cape Town) next
to a building called the Love Life youth centre. Lining the otherto a building called the Love Life youth centre. Lining the other
edge of the square is a neat row of live-work units, with what looksedge of the square is a neat row of live-work units, with what looks
like the beginnings of a high street, complete with a hair salon,like the beginnings of a high street, complete with a hair salon,
internet cafe, co-op bank, TV repair shop, security company and ainternet cafe, co-op bank, TV repair shop, security company and a
restaurant – all things that would have been unimaginable 20 yearsrestaurant – all things that would have been unimaginable 20 years
ago, when independent business was outlawed in theago, when independent business was outlawed in the
townships.townships.
“It's completely changed the feeling of the area,” says“It's completely changed the feeling of the area,” says
18-year old Bongi Qwesha, walking through the square on her way back18-year old Bongi Qwesha, walking through the square on her way back
from school. “It wouldn't have felt safe to hang around here a fewfrom school. “It wouldn't have felt safe to hang around here a few
years ago, but now we all come here after school to meet in theyears ago, but now we all come here after school to meet in the
square and go on the internet.”square and go on the internet.”
Krause says there has been a 33% reduction in the murder rateKrause says there has been a 33% reduction in the murder rate
in Harare since the programme began in 2005, along with an increasein Harare since the programme began in 2005, along with an increase
in the general perception of safety (if only from 2 to 2.8 on ain the general perception of safety (if only from 2 to 2.8 on a
5-step scale), figures which have seen the programme already expanded5-step scale), figures which have seen the programme already expanded
to other townships around the city.to other townships around the city.
But it hasn't come without a fight. Krause's team, and thoseBut it hasn't come without a fight. Krause's team, and those
who rent the new business units, face regular intimidation from thewho rent the new business units, face regular intimidation from the
gangs, whose iron grip over the local economy is being slowlygangs, whose iron grip over the local economy is being slowly
displaced by these initiatives. “That's why we never just wade indisplaced by these initiatives. “That's why we never just wade in
and move people on,” says Krause. “It's a very long and intenseand move people on,” says Krause. “It's a very long and intense
process of giving the community the confidence to do it forprocess of giving the community the confidence to do it for
themselves. The city could just continue to airlift these spankingthemselves. The city could just continue to airlift these spanking
new facilities on to empty sites around the township, but when we donew facilities on to empty sites around the township, but when we do
it, we take the time to make sure it's in the right place. It canit, we take the time to make sure it's in the right place. It can
take up to two years, just to assemble the land for a small project.”take up to two years, just to assemble the land for a small project.”
The VPUU's work has yet to reach the peripheral lanes whereThe VPUU's work has yet to reach the peripheral lanes where
Panyaza and her family reside, but she has heard that new flushingPanyaza and her family reside, but she has heard that new flushing
pubic toilets are on their way, to replace the chemical portaloos –pubic toilets are on their way, to replace the chemical portaloos –
prone to being locked from the outside and tipped over while someoneprone to being locked from the outside and tipped over while someone
is inside. “If they stop overflowing, we'll sleep better at night,”is inside. “If they stop overflowing, we'll sleep better at night,”
she says. “But I'm not holding my breath.”she says. “But I'm not holding my breath.”
Back in the centre of Cape Town, the World Design CapitalBack in the centre of Cape Town, the World Design Capital
entourage returns from the Veuve Clicquot Masters Polo tournament,entourage returns from the Veuve Clicquot Masters Polo tournament,
“South Africa's most exclusive luxury lifestyle event,” where“South Africa's most exclusive luxury lifestyle event,” where
celebrities mingle with designers in the impossibly picturesquecelebrities mingle with designers in the impossibly picturesque
surroundings of the Val de Vie estate, in the rolling winelands tosurroundings of the Val de Vie estate, in the rolling winelands to
the north of the city. High on a cliff above the city, a cocktailthe north of the city. High on a cliff above the city, a cocktail
reception awaits at another hilltop mansion, where a manicured lawnreception awaits at another hilltop mansion, where a manicured lawn
commands panoramic views across the bay – and from where guestscommands panoramic views across the bay – and from where guests
notice billowing clouds of smoke rising in the distance. “Don'tnotice billowing clouds of smoke rising in the distance. “Don't
worry,” assures their guide, reaching for another glass ofworry,” assures their guide, reaching for another glass of
champagne. “It's probably just a fire in one of the townships.”champagne. “It's probably just a fire in one of the townships.”
Following Torino, Seoul and Helsinki, Cape Town is the fourthFollowing Torino, Seoul and Helsinki, Cape Town is the fourth
city to be awarded the title of World Design Capital, an accoladecity to be awarded the title of World Design Capital, an accolade
bestowed by the Montreal-based International Council for Societies ofbestowed by the Montreal-based International Council for Societies of
Industrial Design, which charges a hefty fee to honour a different city with its logoIndustrial Design, which charges a hefty fee to honour a different city with its logo
each year. Cape Town has pumped around £3m of public moneyeach year. Cape Town has pumped around £3m of public money
into its year of design, but it's hard to tell quite where all theinto its year of design, but it's hard to tell quite where all the
cash has gone. There are craft fairs aplenty, showcasing finecash has gone. There are craft fairs aplenty, showcasing fine
ceramics and bespoke furniture, and open studios demonstrating bronzeceramics and bespoke furniture, and open studios demonstrating bronze
casting and elaborate taxidermy, but most of the funds appear to havecasting and elaborate taxidermy, but most of the funds appear to have
been directed at a launch event in London, a New Year's Eve party, abeen directed at a launch event in London, a New Year's Eve party, a
gala dinner and a weekend conference. As a result, many of Capegala dinner and a weekend conference. As a result, many of Cape
Town's more established designers and architects have decided toTown's more established designers and architects have decided to
boycott the bonanza.boycott the bonanza.
“I am offended that the word 'design' can be used so“I am offended that the word 'design' can be used so
loosely, without any consideration for the damage it is doing,”loosely, without any consideration for the damage it is doing,”
says architect Jo Noero, who has built a body of work across the country over the last 30says architect Jo Noero, who has built a body of work across the country over the last 30
years that is deeply embedded in serving the urgent needs of itsyears that is deeply embedded in serving the urgent needs of its
poorest communities. From schools and community centres, to low-costpoorest communities. From schools and community centres, to low-cost
housing designed to be partially self-built and adapted by residents,housing designed to be partially self-built and adapted by residents,
his buildings are made “with the same integrity in the townships ashis buildings are made “with the same integrity in the townships as
they would have anywhere else,” he says. “Only that way will wethey would have anywhere else,” he says. “Only that way will we
ever begin to dismantle the idea of there being two different worldsever begin to dismantle the idea of there being two different worlds
in South Africa. Buildings must be designed to engage the enthusiasmin South Africa. Buildings must be designed to engage the enthusiasm
and creativity of people – that's the only way a tradition of fineand creativity of people – that's the only way a tradition of fine
building will develop.”building will develop.”
He says that apartheid utterly destroyed the capacity ofHe says that apartheid utterly destroyed the capacity of
people to think about upgrading their own homes, and the reconstruction and development programme programme is only doing the same. “The government is still verypeople to think about upgrading their own homes, and the reconstruction and development programme programme is only doing the same. “The government is still very
paternalistic, so people expect it will provide everything,” hepaternalistic, so people expect it will provide everything,” he
adds. “And they still fear that the more freedom you give people,adds. “And they still fear that the more freedom you give people,
the less easy it is to control them.the less easy it is to control them.
“In South Africa there is a horrible lack of imagination“In South Africa there is a horrible lack of imagination
about the future. There are grand plans to build wholeabout the future. There are grand plans to build whole
new satellite cities outside Cape Town, but they're following the same model of putting the poorest peoplenew satellite cities outside Cape Town, but they're following the same model of putting the poorest people
furthest away. It seems like we're just repeating all the mistakes offurthest away. It seems like we're just repeating all the mistakes of
the past.”the past.”
A few streets away, Noero's former partner, Heinrich Wolff, sits at a desk surrounded by a plethora of models of schools andA few streets away, Noero's former partner, Heinrich Wolff, sits at a desk surrounded by a plethora of models of schools and
housing projects, as well as a scheme for a dramatic transformationhousing projects, as well as a scheme for a dramatic transformation
of a dockside warehouse into a new public-facing “innovation hub”of a dockside warehouse into a new public-facing “innovation hub”
for the university.for the university.
“We have massive spatial injustices in our city and we've“We have massive spatial injustices in our city and we've
just been sitting and staring at it for the last 20 years,” hejust been sitting and staring at it for the last 20 years,” he
says. “When Mandela came to power we had an incredible moment ofsays. “When Mandela came to power we had an incredible moment of
change. Optimism gripped us all about a future that would happen –change. Optimism gripped us all about a future that would happen –
through ongoing transformation, not revolution. We are still busythrough ongoing transformation, not revolution. We are still busy
with that project, but there is now a real urgency.”with that project, but there is now a real urgency.”
He says the voices calling for immediate change are fastHe says the voices calling for immediate change are fast
growing in strength and volume, with radical groups like Juliusgrowing in strength and volume, with radical groups like Julius
Malema's Economic Freedom Fighters surging in popularity, as more and more grow disaffected with theMalema's Economic Freedom Fighters surging in popularity, as more and more grow disaffected with the
ruling ANC. The incendiary red beret-wearing politician, who fires upruling ANC. The incendiary red beret-wearing politician, who fires up
frenzied crowds with his song “Kill the Boer” at townshipfrenzied crowds with his song “Kill the Boer” at township
rallies, promising to unleash a reign of violent retribution, is whatrallies, promising to unleash a reign of violent retribution, is what
keeps white South Africans awake at night.keeps white South Africans awake at night.
“Cape Town is a paradise for the minority, but I could hope“Cape Town is a paradise for the minority, but I could hope
for a city where everyone has access to the same opportunities that Ifor a city where everyone has access to the same opportunities that I
have,” says Wolff. “Mandela may have postponed revolution – buthave,” says Wolff. “Mandela may have postponed revolution – but
for how much longer is the question.”for how much longer is the question.”
• Glasgow faces up to reality of a divided Commonwealth Games legacy