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After Avalanche, New York’s Sherpas Recall Perils of a Job They Left Behind After Avalanche, New York’s Sherpas Recall Perils of a Job They Left Behind
(4 months later)
BREWSTER, N.Y. — They may have stunning expanses of rolling hills, but Westchester and Putnam Counties are hardly the Himalayas. BREWSTER, N.Y. — They may have stunning expanses of rolling hills, but Westchester and Putnam Counties are hardly the Himalayas.
Nevertheless, the two counties are home to a scattering of Nepalese Sherpas who appreciate the fresh air and wooded parks, such conveniences as paved roads, and even the nearness of rocks to climb in spots like the Shawangunk Mountains (elevation: 2,289 feet) or Turkey Mountain in Yorktown Heights (elevation: 771 feet).Nevertheless, the two counties are home to a scattering of Nepalese Sherpas who appreciate the fresh air and wooded parks, such conveniences as paved roads, and even the nearness of rocks to climb in spots like the Shawangunk Mountains (elevation: 2,289 feet) or Turkey Mountain in Yorktown Heights (elevation: 771 feet).
The small community was shaken when 16 Sherpas who were hauling supplies and fixing ropes and ladders for an expedition to Mount Everest’s 29,029-foot summit were engulfed by an avalanche on April 18. Many of the Sherpas in the New York area have worked as Everest guides and haulers and know in their marrow the risks faced by those who died.The small community was shaken when 16 Sherpas who were hauling supplies and fixing ropes and ladders for an expedition to Mount Everest’s 29,029-foot summit were engulfed by an avalanche on April 18. Many of the Sherpas in the New York area have worked as Everest guides and haulers and know in their marrow the risks faced by those who died.
“I have almost 50 or 60 friends or family members who do regular expeditions from the Nepal side or the Tibet side and virtually nobody got hurt,” said Phurba Sherpa, a tractor-trailer driver who has lived in the Carmel, N.Y., area since 1989. “When I heard all these were buried by an avalanche, that’s very sad, but I knew sooner or later it’s going to happen.”“I have almost 50 or 60 friends or family members who do regular expeditions from the Nepal side or the Tibet side and virtually nobody got hurt,” said Phurba Sherpa, a tractor-trailer driver who has lived in the Carmel, N.Y., area since 1989. “When I heard all these were buried by an avalanche, that’s very sad, but I knew sooner or later it’s going to happen.”
Others are just as stoic. Geljen Nuru Sherpa, 43, who owns two Westchester restaurants, both named Jewel of Himalaya, told how the avalanche brought echoes of another one in 1972 that killed five of his uncles. “Most of the people who died are from my hometown, and I know them very well,” he said of the latest victims.Others are just as stoic. Geljen Nuru Sherpa, 43, who owns two Westchester restaurants, both named Jewel of Himalaya, told how the avalanche brought echoes of another one in 1972 that killed five of his uncles. “Most of the people who died are from my hometown, and I know them very well,” he said of the latest victims.
Still, he does not regard the men as foolhardy or even exploited.Still, he does not regard the men as foolhardy or even exploited.
“It’s like joining the army,” he said. “If you are deployed to other countries, there is a risk you may not come home. When you do adventure, like sky diving, there is a chance of dying.”“It’s like joining the army,” he said. “If you are deployed to other countries, there is a risk you may not come home. When you do adventure, like sky diving, there is a chance of dying.”
Sherpas came here largely because their Himalayan expeditions offered just three months of work in a poor region where there are few other opportunities. A Sherpa typically earns $125 per climb, which can take weeks. They found that in America, driving a cab, opening a restaurant or slicing lox on the Lower East Side, as one Sherpa does, brought a better life.Sherpas came here largely because their Himalayan expeditions offered just three months of work in a poor region where there are few other opportunities. A Sherpa typically earns $125 per climb, which can take weeks. They found that in America, driving a cab, opening a restaurant or slicing lox on the Lower East Side, as one Sherpa does, brought a better life.
Sherpas are a largely Buddhist ethnic group whose roots are in Tibet. Sher means east and pa means people, and Sherpas are the descendants of eastern Tibetans who a half millennium ago migrated with their cold-resistant yaks to Nepal. When climbers like Edmund Hillary tried to conquer Everest, they admired Sherpa cunning about the least perilous routes and the fine nuances of weather: knowing when storms were signaled by the direction of moving clouds or the anxious behavior of animals. Sherpas also were accustomed to high-altitude exertion.Sherpas are a largely Buddhist ethnic group whose roots are in Tibet. Sher means east and pa means people, and Sherpas are the descendants of eastern Tibetans who a half millennium ago migrated with their cold-resistant yaks to Nepal. When climbers like Edmund Hillary tried to conquer Everest, they admired Sherpa cunning about the least perilous routes and the fine nuances of weather: knowing when storms were signaled by the direction of moving clouds or the anxious behavior of animals. Sherpas also were accustomed to high-altitude exertion.
“In Hawaii everyone knows how to surf,” Mr. Sherpa said. “In our area, everyone knows about the mountains.”“In Hawaii everyone knows how to surf,” Mr. Sherpa said. “In our area, everyone knows about the mountains.”
In 1953, Tenzing Norgay (a townsman of Mr. Sherpa) was the only person photographed at Everest’s peak when it was first scaled, along with Hillary. (Hillary was camera shy; he spent his life striving to improve life for Sherpas, setting up schools, clinics and the area’s only airstrip.)In 1953, Tenzing Norgay (a townsman of Mr. Sherpa) was the only person photographed at Everest’s peak when it was first scaled, along with Hillary. (Hillary was camera shy; he spent his life striving to improve life for Sherpas, setting up schools, clinics and the area’s only airstrip.)
Before he moved here, Mr. Sherpa led more than 100 treks, including some that lasted three months, in which hikers sometimes slept in guesthouses. But long-distance hiking is practically innate in a region with hardly a good road, where the distance between villages is measured by the number of days it takes to walk.Before he moved here, Mr. Sherpa led more than 100 treks, including some that lasted three months, in which hikers sometimes slept in guesthouses. But long-distance hiking is practically innate in a region with hardly a good road, where the distance between villages is measured by the number of days it takes to walk.
There was no catastrophe that drove Sherpas to emigrate, but they learned from the European and American climbers of the opportunities available in the West, and many took advantage of America’s post-1965 liberalized immigration laws. Mr. Sherpa estimated that about 1,200 Sherpas now live north of New York City in communities like Rye, Croton Falls and Brewster. Perhaps another 3,000 live in the city, which has its own Sherpa newspaper, The Everest Times, with a biweekly circulation of 2,000.There was no catastrophe that drove Sherpas to emigrate, but they learned from the European and American climbers of the opportunities available in the West, and many took advantage of America’s post-1965 liberalized immigration laws. Mr. Sherpa estimated that about 1,200 Sherpas now live north of New York City in communities like Rye, Croton Falls and Brewster. Perhaps another 3,000 live in the city, which has its own Sherpa newspaper, The Everest Times, with a biweekly circulation of 2,000.
Several hundred Sherpas, including Pasang Kanchee Sherpa, a sister of one of the climbers who died, attended a prayer and candle-lighting ceremony for the avalanche victims at the United Sherpa Association in Elmhurst, Queens.Several hundred Sherpas, including Pasang Kanchee Sherpa, a sister of one of the climbers who died, attended a prayer and candle-lighting ceremony for the avalanche victims at the United Sherpa Association in Elmhurst, Queens.
Sherpas have no ethnic schools to pass on their traditions. They mostly socialize with one another, dining on homespun dishes like daal makhini (a stew of black lentils and beans) or momo (vegetable or meat dumplings) that bear resemblances to Indian foods. For the new year of Losar, they visit a Tibetan Buddhist temple or monastery affiliated with the sect’s leader, the Dalai Lama. Festive dishes are shared such as guthuk, a stew of nine different ingredients, each an omen of one’s fortune.Sherpas have no ethnic schools to pass on their traditions. They mostly socialize with one another, dining on homespun dishes like daal makhini (a stew of black lentils and beans) or momo (vegetable or meat dumplings) that bear resemblances to Indian foods. For the new year of Losar, they visit a Tibetan Buddhist temple or monastery affiliated with the sect’s leader, the Dalai Lama. Festive dishes are shared such as guthuk, a stew of nine different ingredients, each an omen of one’s fortune.
Lhakpa Sherpa, a painter and carpenter who lives in Patterson, in Putnam County, appreciates America’s relative absence of corruption and its anonymity.Lhakpa Sherpa, a painter and carpenter who lives in Patterson, in Putnam County, appreciates America’s relative absence of corruption and its anonymity.
“In Nepal, everybody knows everybody’s business,” he said.“In Nepal, everybody knows everybody’s business,” he said.
Despite the benefits here, many Sherpas pine for relatives they have left behind, said Dolma Sherpa, an accomplished climber (she knew three of the dead climbers) and guide who now works as a housekeeper on the estate in Bedford owned by Martha Stewart. Her sister Sunu makes a point of visiting Nepal every two years.Despite the benefits here, many Sherpas pine for relatives they have left behind, said Dolma Sherpa, an accomplished climber (she knew three of the dead climbers) and guide who now works as a housekeeper on the estate in Bedford owned by Martha Stewart. Her sister Sunu makes a point of visiting Nepal every two years.
When Sherpas get together, they bemoan their children’s loss of the Nepalese language and their acquisition of American cultural traits like sports caps worn backward. That is why they are talking about starting a cultural school in Carmel.When Sherpas get together, they bemoan their children’s loss of the Nepalese language and their acquisition of American cultural traits like sports caps worn backward. That is why they are talking about starting a cultural school in Carmel.